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Quick Release E3D Fan Duct for Dibond Mendel90

by DanielBull, published

Quick Release E3D Fan Duct for Dibond Mendel90 by DanielBull Mar 25, 2016
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A fan duct for cooling prints which can be used instead of the standard fan duct when upgrading from the J Head to an E3D hot end (in my case a v6) on a dibond NopHead Mendel90. It uses the same 60mm fan as supplied by NopHead.

This is the second version of this duct and incorporates a quick release mechanism as well as more flexible height adjustment (a common request I got on the original one here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:491316 )

I have marked it as a work in progress because even though it works great I have had issues with the release lever snapping off (ABS can be very brittle). I need to do a test print in Bridge (Nylon) to see if this solves the problem. You can repair the lever by using acetone as a glue but I have found even with the lever snapped off it still works great as it stays in place with friction (depending on your tolerances you might want add a bit of tape over the top to make it push in tighter).

NOTE: This will not fit a Sturdy Mendel90 it only fits a Dibond Mendel90. If anyone modifies it to fit please let me know and I'll include a link :)

Build Instructions

Both the fan and bracket can be printed without supports depending on what settings and slicer you use. In fact I suggest you avoid supports as they will be a pain to remove.

I recommend using ABS or Nylon as PLA will melt this close to the extruder but any alternative high temp material should be good.

The standard 60mm fan supplied by NopHead can be used but I used shorter bolts to stop it fouling with the belt. Also I used the standard nylock nuts on the bottom but regular nuts on the top again to allow more space for the belt. The alternative (as suggested by daichiasuka in the comments on the previous fan duct) is you could flip the bolts around and recess the heads instead of the nuts, obviously this isn't as cosmetically pleasing but that may not matter depending on if you have a show printer or not :)

Usage Instructions

The bracket part slides down from the top over the two bolts which held the previous fan duct on the X carriage. You will need to slacken the bolts off far enough to get the bracket past the motor PCB bracket.

With the bracket at the midpoint of its height adjustment you should tighten the bolts. Once thats done slide the fan duct up and into the bracket from the bottom until its fully inserted. The release lever should then hold it in place. You can then adjust the height to suit.

When you want to release the fan duct, disconnect it, gently press on the release lever and pull it downwards.

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Hi there,
Firstly thank you for designing such a nice looking part and making it available.

I have a mendel90 (sturdy, MDF frame, e3dv6 hotend) but it wont fit on my machine.
there are several problems:-

  1. the x carriage mounting holes are 22mm apart instead of the 29.5mm on your model.
    (sure i can make it fit with a drill and some self tappers)
  2. the hotend in not centered in the ring.
    (when held in place, the hot end is at the back of the inner ring, slightly left of center, with the heater block hitting the ring.)

I can see that i have a different x carriage than you which looks like its affecting positioning and point number 2.

Can you please confirm where you got the X carriage file from? (thing:# would be nice!)
From the picture it looks to have the induction sensor built into the x carriage and not on a separate bracket over the tension screw in front. So i suspect that the mounting holes are slightly different to the standard.
If that is all it takes to fix this problem i am happy to switch over to the X carriage with you have as i would be able to probe more of the bed.
( am using a "standard" wades geared extruder, bolted in to the standard location.)
edit Yes the deign is different and i will print it after the current print is finnished. (8hr print) and report back. i have dialed in the probe in the front position already.

Comments deleted.

I have the same problem, it doesn't fit the Sturdy Mendel90.

I can however tell you that printing it in PETG works beautifully. The retaining clip will not break. It is however slightly too large to fit the bracket, probably because of my printer settings (and lack of a work cooling fan... Oh, the irony...)

I also tried modifying the printed part it to make it fit, but it still rubs on the belt or touches the heater block.

Thank you for sharing this design, maybe someday I'll modify it to fit my printer or modify my printer to fit it (Z probe would be nice too...)

Could you maybe put "Dibond Mendel90" in the title? And put something along the lines of "will not fit sturdy mendel90" in the description? I carefully read them and looked at the pictures before printing, to make sure it would fit, but forgot to check the comments...

EDIT: Woah, quadrupple post...
EDIT: Uhm, quintuple? Anyway, deleted.

Thats a good suggestion, I've just made the changes you requested. Apologies to people that have had issues with this, I have to say because I'd never owned or seen a Sturdy I didn't realise there was a difference. I knew the panels were different obviously but didn't think the carriage would be?

Thanks :)

I didn't know either, until now... http://xkcd.com/1053/ except slightly less fun.

Comments deleted.

The difference is because this is for the dibond NopHead Mendel 90 supplied by NopHead which has a different carriage to the MDF version.

The standard NopHead X carriage is here:

I also did a modified version with the Z-Probe here:

Z-Probe X Carriage for NopHead Mendel90 (dibond) with an E3D

Do you know what the differance is for the DIBOND version VS the MDF version? I never would have thought they would be different.

Distance between the 2 mounting screws is larger on Dibond, distance between front of cariage and hotend is smaller, and it uses different bearings/rods apparently.

No idea I've never looked but others have reported its different.
Here's the two files, you could superimpose them in CAD....



Yep they are different. The sturdy uses 10mm rods and the DIBOND uses 5mm.
I am not that good at cad to be able to change your designs :-(


Could you design an adapter?


Yes maybe.
Will have to look at than when time permits.

Right o,
I will have a look.


Right o,
I will have a look.


This is awesome. I was having the same problem with the dibond E3D branch Wade's block being shorter. The quick release is a great feature, I'm printing this tonight.

Can you let me know how you get on with the quick release tab. Let me know if it breaks.

The tolerances are really tight. I had to do some filing to get it to fit into the bracket all the way. This could be my printer's calibration because I can't get M4 nuts or bolts into the fan shroud without some work. My eyeball fitment though I think this should work much better for the dibond E3D wade's setup.

I wonder if that was caused by ABS shrinkage?
I'm guessing different filaments shrink more than others?


While the print turned out really well, and I drilled out the M4 bolt holes for the fan, the two nut captures will work with my nylock nuts, but it's impossible to fit M4 nuts (7mm between parallel flats) in the bottom fan nut traps, they are small enough to work with M3 nuts.

That's part of my fitment issue, the other issue I noticed is that my hotend is not perpendicular to the Y-carriage, making it not fit in the ring.

Yeah that's a really nice print.
With reference to the nuts they can be tricky, I personally have normal nuts in the top two and nylocks on the bottom. I think on one of my prints I had to open them out a bit with a craft knife to get them in, on the others I put the bolts in and tightened them into place.

One commenter came up with a good idea; they reversed the bolts around so the nuts were on the fan side and the heads in the duct. That was so they wouldn't have to cut them to length, it would probably solve your problem with them being to tight as well.

Can't wait to 3D print this! I am having the same problem with the height, and since this is adjustable I hope it will work.

I am using the wades block that nopehead uploaded for the E3D: https://github.com/nophead/Mendel90/blob/master/dibond_E3D/stls/wades_block.stl

I'm using NopHeads standard wades block with my E3D so I'm not sure what the difference with that one is?
It looks almost the same though so I'm guessing it will be fine...

The E3Dv6 makes the Z axis shorter, and the new wades block was made to give a few mm more on the Z axis. My Z height is 193 mm.

I took a screen shot of both and put them side by side (the E3D wades block on the left):

I 3D printed your old duct: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:491316 and because I am using the wades block for the E3D, the fan duct is actually lower than the nozzle, I even tried to cut some of the plastic to push it more up, but still not enough.

So, because this fan duct is more adjustable I am hoping it will fit...

E3Dv6 Carriage Fan Duct for NopHead Mendel90 (dibond)

I'm having the same problem, as can be seen here: http://repstrapdk.blogspot.de/2016/05/step-up-reactor-power-three-more.html

This is with a "sturdy" Mendel90, but the extruder is a Wade's, the lower model. Frankly, I would happily give up several centimeters of vertical printing space for having a working system, but everybody seems to want to squeeze every last millimeter of height out of it.

There's no room left on this to add an adapter.

"but everybody seems to want to squeeze every last millimeter of height out of it." well, yea, of course, especially when you have a part that is ~190 mm height, I want to make sure there is enough room to print the last few layers.

I printed the 2 parts with ABS, but the parts were fitting very tight, and when I tried to pull them apart, I broke the fan duct somewhere in the middle. The walls are too thin, so I am not surprised it broke.

I can understand the release clip breaking but you shouldn't be able to break the actual duct if you are printing this in Nylon or ABS. My ducts are very strong, if yours broke easily you may want to experiment with different temperatures to find out which gives you the best strength. Think of LEGO (for example), that's much thinner than this and doesn't easily break and thats ABS.

What temperature do you print ABS with?

It depends on the ABS.
I found this helped me out:

Print Temperature Calibration Piece

The design is for the Dibond Mendel 90 not Sturdy. Unfortunately the carriages are different.

Ah, bother. Do you have OpenSCAD files for these or do you use something else? If the former, I would be interested in fiddling with them.

Its 123D, the file is on the files tab.

OK I just took a look; it should fit but you may need to shave some of the plastic off the bracket that holds the PCB and D connector on the back of the NEMA so you can get the new fan duct bracket up higher.

If you look at this image here I just took of mine you can see where I've circled in red where the new fan duct bracket is touching the NEMA PCB bracket. This happens when you try and move the bracket higher than a certain amount.

It may be the case that when they touch its OK as this is high enough so its not a problem, but I thought I'd show you as this is the main limit in the height adjustment for the current design.

Let us know how you get on!