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Sculptr Delta MK1

by 3dprintingtips, published

Sculptr Delta MK1 by 3dprintingtips Apr 22, 2016

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Design Tools

123D Design & Fusion360

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Thing Statistics

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Summary

The Sculptr Delta MK1 is a low-cost delta style 3D printer created for beginners and makers.

Join the Sculptr group on Thingiverse if you have any question or suggestion about our printers : http://www.thingiverse.com/groups/sculptr

Website : http://www.sculptr.eu
Youtube : https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCYkebyUiCjnn1lkImC_vHTQ
Facebook : https://www.facebook.com/sculptr3d/
Twitter : https://twitter.com/printingtips3d
Instagram : 3dprintingtips

Specifications

  • Ø15 x 24cm print volume
  • Precision from 250 to 80 microns
  • Slicer : Cura
  • Heated bed & screen controller included

Bill of Materials

Mechanical parts :

  • 6x stainless steel smooth rod 500mm (Ø 8mm)
  • 9x stainless steel smooth rod 180mm (Ø 8mm)
  • 6x LM8UU bearings
  • 1x 500mm aluminium hollow rod (Ø 8mm)
  • 3x 20 tooth GT2 pulleys
  • 3x GT2 belt 1m
  • 4x 624ZZ bearings
  • 3x GT2 belt tensioner

Extrusion :

  • E3Dv6 hotend for 1.75mm filament
  • 2x 1/8" pneufit
  • 80cm PTFE tube (Ø 4mm)
  • 11mm extrusion wheel
  • 20mm spring

Heated bed (optional but recommanded) :

  • Thermoelectric heater (peltier effect) 40x40x4mm
  • Thermistor
  • 5mm cork sheet
  • Polyimide adhesive
  • Thermal pad

Electronics :

  • Arduino MEGA + RAMPS 1.4
  • 3x 30mm fan
  • 4x NEMA17
  • 4x stepper driver
  • ReprapDiscount Smart Controller
  • 12V 120W (or more) power supply
  • ON/OFF switch
  • 5.5/2.5 power plug
  • 3x endstops

Screws & Nuts :

  • 35x M3 16mm screw
  • 40x M3 "nylstop" nut
  • 40x M3 nut
  • 50x M3 10mm screw
  • 12x M3 10mm hex screw
  • 4x M4 25mm screw
  • 1x M4 10mm screw
  • 4x M3 30mm screw
  • M3 washers
  • M4 washers
  • 15x M2.5 20mm screw
  • 15x M2.5 nut

Printed parts :

  • 6x 150mm rod
  • 1x arduino support
  • 6x bed support part 1 & 2
  • 2x bottom frame
  • 1x bottom frame Z axis
  • 3x carriage
  • 1x e3d blocker
  • 1x e3d top
  • 3x foot
  • 1x extruder arm
  • 1x extruder body
  • 1x extruder support 1 & 2
  • 3x GT2 belt carriage
  • 1x hotend fans
  • 12x joint
  • 1x LCD front panel
  • 1x LCD front panel support
  • 4x LCD front rods support
  • 1x platform
  • 1x switch panel
  • 1x top frame
  • 1x top frame with spool holder
  • 1x top frame Z axis
  • 1x endstops tube fixing

Cutted parts :

  • 1x bed.dxf in 5mm thick aluminium

For any question or suggestion : contact[at]sculptr.fr
See it in action : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yEZaucU6Y_E
The future of the Sculptr project : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eGv1PW3HHeM

Print Settings

Rafts:

No

Supports:

No

Resolution:

0.2 - 0.1mm

Infill:

20%

Revisions

22 November 2016 : very big update on extruder, top frame, LCD front, carriage, platform, GT2 belt mount
26 October 2016 : extruder updated
18 September 2016 : fans support updated
6 September 2016 : bottom frame updated
26 August 2016 : important modification on the GT2 belt fixing
5 July 2016 : GT2 belt fixing updated
2 July 2016 : Cura configuration file added (SculptrDelta.ini)
27 June 2016 : new spring loaded extruder
24 June 2016 : extruder updated
19 June 2016 : new fixation of the endstops tube on the bottom frame
18 June 2016 : new top frame pieces
8 June 2016 : NEMA17 stepper motors easier to mount on the bottom frame pieces
24 May 2016 : extruder easier to print
19 May 2016 : corrected issue on the bottom frame
10 May 2016 : spool holder directly fixed on the top frame
9 May 2016 : stronger hotend fixation (hotend_fans.stl reuploaded, e3d_blocker.stl uploaded)
26 April 2016 : new pieces added + important changes on hotend_fans.stl
22 April 2016 : upload

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Where are the directions!!!

i ve used ABS to make parts for the first time with my printer. the entire body was shaking a lot. now i ve switched to PLA but it still shakes the body and making extruder move unevenly. are the 175mm rods can move freely at your builts? i m thinking that it might be the reason.

They are suppose to be 180MM.. not 175MM.

Description is wrong.

2 years old project and noone realized that??? well then could you tell me whats the distance of your rods from saparate towers. when i measure it is 205mm from outer diameter to outer diameter. (i glued the rods into holes, now they r not moving)

I don't have a complete printer yet.. But if you scroll down to the bottom of the comments you will see it mentioned a few times that they were 180mm instead of 175mm.. Not sure why the description was not updated as I did not see it until AFTER cutting mine so it left me without enough to finish mine.

May 16, 2017 - Modified May 16, 2017
Concerwe - in reply to MeisnerX

all right. thanks.

PLA Plus to be exact.

So ? how is this printer ? I want a little reliable machine i can easily bring anywhere, dimensions ? Maybe i should go for 3DR form Richrap or the Neutron here on thingiverse ? Also how much did you spend ?

So has anyone else had major problems with Broken STL's for this build.So far using Simplify3D I have had to repair the Rods,LCD with Reset ,Carriage.all 4 of these seem to slice and have blocks not attached to main Piece.
Think Im gunna run all the parts through NetFabb.

Yes. Using S3D just click Mesh>Separate Connected Surfaces and THEN slice it. No need for NetFabb.

Well there you go.i didnt know that one.thanks for the tip Ryan. I ran them all through netfab but ill try that next time.cheers

There is a need if you don't use S3D.. Or want to spend $150 for the software..

3D builder in Windows 10 will also do the repairs.

I was talking to Tasdude, though, who said he has S3D.

I must just be having a rough day but where is the guide to building this? I have all the pieces printed and parts on the way but I can't find the guide to actually putting this together.

There really is not one.. Putting it together is not hard.

Be aware the bottom rods are 180MM and not 175mm as the description says.

Whats the proper locations for the steppers? Clockwise should it be Z, X, Y or Z, Y, X.

I think it should be X left front, y right front and Z in the back

Can you use an Arduino Uno with the ramps board to do this? I would really like to have this be a money saving project. Great design though. Keep it up! :)

No. You must use an Arduino Mega.

Comments deleted.

How the fuck do i screw the motors of the base?

Mar 29, 2017 - Modified Mar 29, 2017
MeisnerX - in reply to Ataliva

I have yet to print but I remixed these in hopes they would work easier when I get a chance to start printing it.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2211246

Remixed bottom with holes to easier tighten stepper motor screws.

The second image of the bed is for printing (in paper) and cut the aluminium with the paper on top of it? (right know i can´t acces a lasercut)

this might be a lil silly question to ask but i ll shoot it anyway. which matterials do you guys prefer to build this printer? i ve used abs at the extruder and tower holders. pla at the arms and extruder top only. but i feel like my parts begin to warn out coz extruder is not moving that stable. also start to make a sound like plastic to plastic scrubbing each other. any suggestions?

mine is entirely built in PLA. The only addition was some aluminium tape around the hot end fan shrouds. Have put probably 5 - 6 kg of filament through and not noticed any problems yet.

i ve builted up mine with abs and it shakes a lot while working. i ll switch to pla as u suggest. thanks a lot for info.

Can somebody please help me with peltier cell and ramps? dont know how to configure it! thanks!

Hi, My name is Nacho.
I want to congratulation for your job.
I have a cartesan printer, but I wanted to mount a Delta printer. I found your printer and I wanted to mount one. I have all parts and elements, but I Have a problem with the electrical PCA.
I have bought board Ramps 1.4 + 2004 LCD + Mega2560 5PCS A4988 Stepper Motor Driver. The LCD is a RepRapdi scount Smart Controller, but if a burn in Arduino your code the rapms don't make anything and the LCD is frozen.I don't have any problem to burn the code.
If I burn another code (2004">http://kookye.com/2016/05/30/ramps-1-4-3d-printer-board-marlin-firmware-installation-guide/->2004 LCD Marlin firmware), the motor and the LCD are lives.
I only change in the code, the NTCs because the ramps, LCD are same.
I could see that the ramps 1.4 have the same code than ramps 1.3.
I have checked the code but I haven't found nothing.
Could you help me please?
Thank's

Comments deleted.

Gotta say Quickest Build Ever, I Printed this and Built it and got it working in 30 hours Currently building 30 more. Nice work

How much would this cost overall?

Feb 5, 2017 - Modified Feb 5, 2017

No answers via mail or facebook...Are you alive? How is it possible to fix the rods/arms with 4 M3x10 screws? For me it is only possible to screw in 3 ones. The 4th hasn´t enough space to fit in the carriage...

Can anybody help?

God it! Can´t use INBUS Screws

well, you can use any screws, but you may need to use some pliers to screw them from side

Hello, I have seen a few Sculptr Deltas using reprap discount full graphic controler, can you or someone here provide version of marlin which can be used like that please? (i!m not really smart about marlin firmware)

Comments deleted.

Which Power Supply have people been using? What amperage should I use?

Hey i hve big issue with the slicing of the bracket and the extruder mount. Both simplify and cura doesen't slice it well and they leave a gap between the end part and the pice itself. Even with netfabb i can't fix it

Simplify3d > Mesh > Separate Connected Surfaces

Then slice!

Feb 2, 2017 - Modified Feb 2, 2017
OkurRo - in reply to bobthefighter

I am printing with slic3r in repetier host with no problem, it supports cura engine too, so try it

Are you able to slice the LCD with reset? I am not!

Which slicer are you using?

Slic3r Prusa Edition 1.31.6

Could you also post a picture of the power in and switch?

where can i get the bed?

Got wierd lines on the top frame parts and couldn't manage to repair them, any thoughts?

Feb 14, 2017 - Modified Feb 14, 2017
Esh_Robotics - in reply to ryandgarrison

S3D & Cura
The lines appear on the model itself even before slicing

Some of the objects need slight repair.. Download the netfab (free version) and run them through that, then save the repaired objects. (I know the bottom frame, bottom frame z axis, and platform work much better when repaired before printing)

Does anyone want to tell me what their costs for building this is? I want to pull the trigger on this printer soon.

I'm $200 in if you don't count prints. Still need to buy all the parts for the bed.

Can you give me your parts list?

? The parts list is in the "Thing Details" tab...

anyone managed to print the 150mm rods in ABS? tried about 8 times :(

I had warping at the edges too. Using a skirt with 4 loops did the trick on my Flashforge Dreamer.

Look here is a glue.
BF-2 adhesive, BF-4 and BF-6 is a phenol-formaldehyde resin and polyvinyl acetate or polyvinyl butyral, dissolved in ethyl alcohol, acetone or chloroform
This is video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mpGpJx2872o&t=111s

Hot heated is the key for me with ABS. First layer 110˚C for the rest 105˚C. Fan is off. If I'm printing in ABS something large I'm covering my Prusa printer with blanket :-) BTW I printed mine in PET-G.

Yes, we get! I used a special solution. BF-2 Adhesive + alcohol

Are they getting warped at the edges?

Jan 14, 2017 - Modified Jan 14, 2017
Bisofication - in reply to Esh_Robotics

Here's a list of things that I found that they may be helpful :

  • Try to keep the printer away from any window or any wind current (best way is by having it in an enclosed box)
  • Try setting the extruder head temp to 230 and heated be to 90 degrees without the use of cooling fans. (it works for me)
  • Try applying some glue using a dollar store glue stick on the heated bed enough to have a shiny-ish layer on the bed (Not too much though).
  • Have your first layer to be thicker than usual in order for it to stick well.
    ....

NOT VERY RECOMMENDED BUT WORKS!!! >>> after the first few layers, grab some Elmers School glue and put some of it on the corner of the edges of the printed parts ( This wont affect your printing if the nozzle touches the glue but it will prevent it from warping and bending and keep the first few layers sticking to the bed). The only downside of this, is that you'll have to clean the glue off the tape or even maybe remove the entire painters tape off the bed. It's not perfect but it works for prints that are valuable like this.

Good luck!

Thanks, I am currently printing at 220/100 c with glue stick on top of glass, will try increasing the first layer height!

Jan 16, 2017 - Modified Jan 21, 2017
mastahz - in reply to Esh_Robotics

Try increasing your bed temperature to 110C this will help to keep your abs prints in place.
Also I have made a different arm for the scupltr , I made a way bigger version off this machine (I will post it later) so I needed to modify this part to keep strength in it.
I cut off the middle section and made holes in the back side so I can screw M3/M4 threaded rods in them , this also makes adjusting the length to witch you want very easy.
take a look at them if you want :
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2041621

Sculptr Delta Extruder arm Endpieces for M3/M4 threaded rod
by mastahz
Jan 11, 2017 - Modified Jan 11, 2017

curious if anyone has recently completed and could share an rough bill of material/total cost for this build. excluding the 3d printed parts

I'm in 200 EUR excluding proteins. Including second hand XBox 107W PSU.

I'm $200 in if you don't count prints. Still need to buy all the parts for the bed.

How do you tighten down the screws the hold the stepper motors in place? They are very difficult to get to.

Yeah it's almost impossible. The bottom pieces need slots on the outside that cut through, allowing a screwdriver to pass through and access the screw heads.

Also the LM8UU slots are too large, resulting in a very loose fit? Is the idea to glue them in place?

Comments deleted.

bonjour,
pour un plateau chauffant l faut quoi comme diamètre?

Could you please tell me which NEMA 17 motors does it use, 40mm version or 48mm version ? And on how many amperes ?

Comments deleted.

Please someone know what i need to do for get the endstops work,it's the third time that i write without get any answer it's so hard answer this question,or i waste my money for a thing that doesn't work.
I mean this thing,printer or whatever, it's online from more than a year only on thingverse and yet isn't surely a plug and play thing,,and thank you for your hard work ecc as always,but at least answer a simple question SCULPTR ,i'm not asking you of build a new one for me,i'm just asking you why in the firmware the endsotps are not working what i need to do for make them working and get all this damned thing working ,maybe....

Could you be more precise when describing your issue please? What happens when you try to home the axis?

hi, basically there are a few problems, when i try to home the axis,the three axis start moving and go up, but When They arrive to press the endstops the motors not stop and continue to turn indefinitely,until i press the emergency stop on repetier.
Then when i try to move only one axes, for example x the motors starting to move at differents speed (but i think that in the delta printers this is normal), the problem Is that when i try to move also only 1 or 0,1 the axes start to move indefinitely without stop and also in this case i need to press the stop

at the moment i tried this :
1) replace all the steppers motor,but the problem is the same also with new stepper
2)replace the board ramps 1.4 with a new ramps 1.4
3)replace a4988 driver
in all that cases the problem is still the same,as software i use repetier host

p.s this is my first delta,i have 2 prusa,so i don't know exactly how the motors have to move,but it's clear that something goes wrong

Ok, what is the logic of your endstops? (Normally Open or Closed?)

the wire are on c and nc,then should be nc,on the ramps i connect to the pin s and pin - an i leave the + empty,like for the prusa

The endstops must be connected on NO.
If you don't want to re-wire your endstops, you can invert the logic in the firmware ( configuration.h => from lines 375 to 381 put the value ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false for all the axis ).

i connected the endstops in no,but the situation is always the same,they are totally not recognized,and when are pressed nothing happen ,and the motors not stop to turn,in addition now the z axis not work anymore,i tried to reupload the original firmware without modification,change motor,board and stepper,but the axis z won't move anymore.
At this point i decided to buy a brand new kit with ramps+a4988,for be sure that isn't a faulty of the 2 boards or stepper driver that i tested,the problem is that i need to wait at least a month as usually.
At the moment,from other printers,i have a melzi 2.0,a gt2560 and a sanguinolu,should be possible upload the firmware in one of them,maybe the gt2560,that is similar,and test with that?

anyway thanks for the help at least,now i know about the right connection of endstops

i connected the endstops in no,but the situation is always the same,they are totally not recognized,and when are pressed nothing happen ,and the motors not stop to turn,in addition now the z axis not work anymore,i tried to reupload the original firmware without modification,change motor,board and stepper,but the axis z won't move anymore.
At this point i decided to buy a brand new kit with ramps+a4988,for be sure that isn't a faulty of the 2 boards or stepper driver that i tested,the problem is that i need to wait at least a month as usually.
At the moment,from other printers,i have a melzi 2.0,a gt2560 and a sanguinolu,should be possible upload the firmware in one of them,maybe the gt2560,that is similar,and test with that?

anyway thanks for the help at least,now i know about the right connection of endstops

Comments deleted.

What kind of controller are you using?

hi thanks for the answer,i'm using a ramps 1.4 with manual endstop,i tried to move all the endstop to min,or to max ,but the situation is always the same when i press the home button all the axis move up,without stopping when they press the endstops,i'm forced to press the stop botton,and obviously i can't printer or other.
For be sure i tried also to replace the stepper ,but still same problem

i'm using repetier host,do you know if i need to make some changes in the program or in the fw ?
thanks for the help

I had a similar problem with minitronics.
Just try opening in the Arduino environment the tab pins.ramps and invert the pin numbers of x y and z endstop.
You have to assign the min endstop pin to the max and viceversa.
Keep a copy of the original firmware just in case

i can't find the tab pins.rams,i see only pins.h,or pins_ramps 13,it's one of them ?
for assign min and max,you mean,always in the pins tab or in configuration.h ?

in the pins_ramps_13.h here you have to invert the numbers

i made the modifications,but unfortunately the problem is not solved ,the enstops not working when presses and the axes continue to move and now the x axis motor make a strange sound and seems jammed when move,while the z axis not move totally and the motor remain stopped.
At this point i think that it's a problem with my boards ,at the moment except the two ramps that i tested ,i have a melzi 2.0 a gt2560,and a sanguinolu 1.3 it's possible upload the firmware in one of them?

thanks for your help

Comments deleted.

The parts to support the E3DV6 are still not good.
Diameters are not correct.
Do you plan to fix them?
Thank you

Hi!

We use E3D Lite6 hotends for our machine which have the sames dimensions as E3DV6 hotends and they fit very well.

Did you check that your 3D printed part had the right dimensions?

If you look at the e3d drawings the upper part has diameters 16 and 12.
If you measure you part the diameters are 11,5 and 15,5.

Comments deleted.
Nov 28, 2016 - Modified Nov 28, 2016

hello, i have a problem with the endstops i tried already max and min too.but doesn't work, I need to make some changes to the firmware ?

Thx for your hard work to this awesome printer, I still printing the parts and meet some problems.
First thing is the GT belt buckle, the belt gap are so narrow that I still can't fit the belt in. Is there any other solution for the GT belt buckle?

The other thing is the frame connecting hole, the 8mm rod hole diameter seem's not to be consistency in any way, so the frame using short rods to connect between each other would be little loose for the structure, and making swaying not good for it. Could it be modify the model to secure the rods in order position to make structure more solid then before?

Thanks a lot.

Hi! Thank you for your interest in our Sculptr Delta 3D printer!

We just made a very big update of most of the printer pieces. All your problems are solved in this new version! :)

That's a wonderful message!! Glad to waiting till it release!

hi sculptr,and thank you for this awesome printer,i finish the assembly of the printer,but i would know if i need to make some changes on the firmware for use an heated bed (circular) and maybe fix other settings,please let me know ;)
thanks for your work

Can you please post some assembly instructions or more photos of the printer?

bonjour quelle est la version du marlin ? j'arrive en phase final de montage

is there an instructions pdf you could post?

Bonjour, félicitations pour le taff et le partage, est il possible d'augmenter la taille de l'imprimante ét quelle seront les conséquences sur la programmation ?

Bonjour, merci beaucoup!
Il est possible d'augmenter la hauteur de l'imprimante (même si nous le déconseillons à cause de l'instabilité causée par les vibrations).

The firmware is in the thing files (Marlin.zip)

I can use the Arduino MEGA 2560 right?

Yes you can :)

Comments deleted.

English World be nice, that people Support you

Which endstope did you use?

Hello,
what is the aluminium hollow rod (Ø 8mm) for?
Thank you

Hi. The wires from the limit switches go on the tube down to the electronics.

Sep 20, 2016 - Modified Sep 20, 2016

Why does the effector part has 3 lines that split it to couple of parts? Is it a bad file or just supposed to be like this?
UPDATE: used the microsoft 3d builder and fixed the file

What were the changes to the fan support?

quel est la modification du bottom frame ?

Elle est au niveau des trous pour les barres latérales. Il n'est pas utile de les remplacer si vous les avez déjà.

bonjour

j'aimerais créer une seconde imprimante 3D mais avant tout j'aimerais savoir si l'on peut vraiment la construire et ou trouver les pièces électroniques pour la monter ?

cordialement, Mathis

Anyone else have a problem with the hotend_fans.stl? When we try to mount an E3D, there is no way the heater and thermistor wires can fit. The ducts seem to be aimed at the lower half of the heater block, overall the fan ducts appear ~5mm too short. In fact, with our printed part the E3D heater element actually touches the fan ducts.

I've checked, and our E3D measures out exactly versus online CAD models and others we have access to. The printed part looks to be the correct fit in other areas (fans mount successfully, and the E3D collar fits snugly). It just that the ducts seem to need to extend lower to leave room for the wires and aim below the nozzle.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

I meet the same problem, and I try the E3DV6 lite still can't fit in the duct complex. the neck of the E3Dv6 heatsink had 1mm bigger then the hotend_fan.stl and e3d_blocker.stl CAD model was make.

extruder motor not working

Well then, clean it out. It takes like five minutes.

I have a problem with auto bed leveling. It only probes the front half of the bed.
Do you have any idea what I'm doing wrong?

define DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET 128.0 // mm ? true or failse

how to config it ?
thanks

I have downloaded the Marlin firmware, can you list me the changes(using arduino IDE) before uploading the firmware?

Thanks Sculptr.
how to watch the table printed in one sheet of paper, how to edit firmware

Bonjour,
la ramps et l'arduino et les pololu ne sont pas refroidi ?

Bonjour,

Non, il n'y a pas de système de refroidissement de l'électronique, mais cela ne pose pas de souci.

ok Merci et point de vue Hotend avez vous tester de monter une hexagon ou une AIO a la place de la ed3V6 ?

Nous n'avons pas testé d'autre hotend que la E3DV6, mais une hexagon devrait passer. Par contre, une AIO est trop large.

I connect to Max port but motor no stop.
I connect to Com and NC port on endstop

You need to use NO endstops. I think yours are NC.

Endtop use X min, Y min, Z min or X max, Y max , Z max. Help

The endstops are plugged on the max ports.

Where to get the TOP Spool holder as seen on the 3rd picture?

The Sculptr Delta you see on this picture was made by a membre of the thingiverse community. He made this spool holder himself and he didn't post the 3d models.

whats the build volume and and cost, this is basic, Why would I build this if I don't know

You can buy the components for about 350€. The build volume is written in the description.

Can you tell me the estimated cost to build this?

You can find all the components for about 350€.

Nice work. The peltier heater is connected directly to D8 on the RAMPS?

Thanks! :)
Yes it is!

What are the dimensions of the heated bed? Can you use a square one or just a circular one? If so dimensions of each?

There's a picture with the dimensoins of the bed. You can't use a square heated bed because it doesn't fit, but a circular one can do the job.
But the simpliest way to heat the bed on the Sculptr Delta is to use a peltier heater, as it is detailed in the BOM.

Hello,
Nice work.
Next week I will begin the construction of this printer.
Please, could you upload more images? I have studied de the different files, and i have a general idea of the ensamblaje, but i would like to have more information, because i have no clear the purpose of some pieces.
Thanks!

If you have any question during the printer assembly, feel free to contact us at [email protected]

Thanks, i would just like to see some more photos of the top and the bottom of the printer

Anyone know the estimated build cost of this?

What wattage would you recommend for the peltier heater? I seem to keep burning them up and was wondering if the wattage would have anything to do with it.

Do you use a thermal pad between your peltier heater and the aluminium bed?

I was using thermal grease. Does there pad work better

I've never burnt any peltier heater using a thermal pad.

Jul 5, 2016 - Modified Jul 5, 2016

Bonjour,

pouvons nous augmenter la longueur des tiges lisse de 50 en 60 ou 70 ?
le tous pour gagner en hauteur d'impression ?

belle réalisation !

Bonjour,

Nous ne l'avons jamais testé sur cette structure. Il y a un risque que vous perdiez en stabilité et la rigidité de l'ensemble ne sera pas aussi bonne qu'avec des barres de 50.
A vous de voir en fonction de votre besoin!

pour le lit chauffant vous avez fait comment ? avec un diamètre de 170 ?

Le plateau est découpé à la CNC dans de l'aluminium de 5mm pour couvrir toute la surface, mais en pratique, on peut atteindre un diamètre de 16cm.

je vais tester en 60 si cela pose problème je passerais en 50.
cela me permettrais d’imprimer de plus grand volume en complément de ma reprap Itopie

Bonjour, quelle est la vitesse d'impression recommandée en fonctionnement pour la machine ? Pouvez vous partager les paramètres Slic3R ? Merci !

Bonjour,

Vous pouvez utiliser des vitesses d'impression de 50 à 60mm/s pour une qualité optimale.
Nous recommandons l'utilisation de Cura pour la préparation à l'impression (je viens de mettre en téléchargement le fichier de configuration de la machine pour Cura).

bonsoir, tout d'abord je tiens a vous dire que cette machine et tout simplement magnifique !!!
pour moi c'est un coup de coeur et j'ai donc bien envie d'en réaliser une, en revanche
je suis debutant et n'y connais absolument rien en programmation, auriez vous le code déjà fait a introduire dans l'arduino ?
bonne soirée cordialement ;)

Bonjour!

Merci beaucoup, ça nous fait vraiment plaisir!
Oui, le firmware de l'imprimante à mettre dans l'arduino est disponible dans le fichier "Marlin.zip".

Bon montage!

c'est génial, je vous remercie ;)
c'est partie les pièces sont lancés on va voir ce que ça donne bien que je n'y connaisse absolument rien en Electronique ou en programmation, ce sera le moment idéal pour apprendre ;) sur cette merveilleuse machine.
bonne continuation et a bientôt.

Pas de souci!
N'hésitez pas à nous contacter par mail à [email protected] si vous avez des questions ou des problèmes lors du montage.

Do I use NO or NC on the endstop ?

The firmware is configured for NO endstops.

Jun 21, 2016 - Modified Jun 21, 2016

Can I get a copy of the starting and ending G-code if you use your own custom code? I am almost done building my sculptr printer, just waiting for my proximity sensor to come in the mail. I will upload pics once I have it all set up and functional.

Norma, how do you fix the Inductive Proximity Switch on the delta?

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:539692 I was just going to model something up like he has in the video here and just edit the mount to attach to the back of the hot end.

How to install an Inductive Proximity Sensor for Auto Bed Leveling

We use very basic start/end gcode :

;START
G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
M107 ;start with the fan off
G28
G92 E0
G1 F{travel_speed}
;Put printing message on LCD screen
M117 Printing...

;END
M104 S0 ;extruder heater off
M140 S0 ;heated bed heater off (if you have it)
G91 ;relative positioning
G28 ;move to endstops
M84 ;steppers off
G90 ;absolute positioning

Don't hesitate to send us pictures of your printer (even it's not finished) at [email protected] so we can share them on our social networks accounts!

Someone knows the length of upright rods . 6 pieces?

I believe they are 500mm in length.

Hi ! Do you plan to add an autolevel probe ?

Yes this is planned.

Très joli design, bravo.

Has someone managed to build his own ?
I have to confess I've been seduced by the design and am planning to build my own but I'm afraid by the lack of information on the building process.

Thank you very much!

We plan to sell the printer fully assembled. That's why there is no assembly guide yet. But if you need help for the assembly, you can contact us at [email protected] and/or add us on Snapchat (sculptr3d). We'll bring you all the information you need to build your own Sculptr Delta.

Many thanks let's build then !!

Hello, can you write dimensions of "bed.dxf 1 in 5 mm thick aluminum"?
Thank you.

I uploaded an image with all the dimensions you need. I hope it'll help you!

Thank you very much!

I can't get the selector knob on the controller to work. This is the second controller I have tried so I think it might be something in the code. Any suggestions?

Can you please give me the reference of your controller or a link to the website where you bought it?

Do you have any error message (displayed on the screen) when you start the printer?

It gives me an error about the temp.

If you have a temperature error, you can't control the printer. Make sure your hotend thermistor and bed thermistor are well connected and everything should be ok.

OK, thanks for your help.

Comments deleted.

plz the instruction of build! :)

There is no assemble guide yet but if you have any problem with the assembly, don't hesitate to contact us at [email protected] or add us on Snapchat (sculptr3d)!

The 150mm_rods part doesn't slice well on S3D. The ends of the rod are separated from it's body.
I've tried different settings and tried Netfabb to see if the file was damaged, but no.
My nozzle is 0.4mm and layer height is 0.2mm

I printed this part fine using Cura.

Yeah, I just tried it in Repetier host with cura, and it looks fine. No idea why S3D is like that. Weird!

Bonjour sous S3D il faut utiliser l'option mesh -> separate Connected Surfaces

are there any instructions for this build and if there are, where are they

There are no instructions yet because we plan to sell the printer ready to use.

Will there be instructions eventually

If many people ask for it, we'll make an assemble guide. But it's not planned yet.
If you have any problem with the assembly, don't hesitate ton contact us.

3000mm aluminium rods (Ø 8mm)

How to cut it into 6 pieces? 500mm each?

Where to buy it?

May 23, 2016 - Modified May 24, 2016
Noram - in reply to g2david

If you are in the US it can be tough to find in stores. Look for local aluminium supplier, if you can't find any there go to McMaster Carr online.

You actually need to cut 9 18cm long aluminium rods. These are used to link the bottom frame pieces and the top frame pieces together.
You can buy aluminium rods at the hardware store.

I think something might be off with bottom_frame and and bottom_frame_Z models. When printed at a 1:1 scale the 180mm aluminium rods do not allow the center pieces to touch. The holes for the NEMA 17 are also spaced at 28mm when it looks like it should be 31mm, but the 8mm diameter holes still seem to be on size. Am I doing something wrong?

We just reuploaded the new version of these pieces to correct the issue concerning the holes for the NEMAs. Thank you for reporting this mistake!

Try to redrill the holes for the aluminium rods with a 8mm drill bit to make them bigger. The problem is that the rods are not going as far as they should.

If you have any other problem don't hesitate to contact us : contact[@]sculptr.fr

Can I use 170mm round glass instead of aluminum bed ?

Yes you can but you'll need to design your own bed supports.

Love the design! What firmware do your suggest for this printer?

Thanks!
We uploaded the firmware (Marlin.zip).

Beautiful printer, nice work.

Thank you very much! :)

What length are the aluminium rods cut to?

The aluminium rods (for the base and the top) are 18cm long.
The aluminium rod fixed near from the Z axis (to pass the endstops cables) is 50cm long.

Great work!

What is the estimate of total parts cost?

Thanks!

The total cost is about 400$.

Do you have assembly instructions available yet?

Hi,

Not for now but it's planned.

My new favorite 3d printer on thingiverse!
Can we get a video of this thing in action?

Many thanks! :)
We'll post a video as soon as possible.

There's just one thing about your design that I can't see. How are the rods connected to the platform/carriage? There was no mention of any 'rod end bearings' in the bill of materials.

The piece needed to connect the rod to the platform and the carriage is 3d printed. We forgot to upload this little piece here but now it's online (joint.stl). You need to print 12 of them.
Thank you for reporting this mistake!

Magnifique !
Congrats !

Merci beaucoup! :)

This rostock type is looking gorgeous congratulations ! I build a 3d printer out of mdf, but now that i can print parts i might build a printer like this one. I wonder how much the parts would cost ?
FRENCH MODE ON
Vraiment magnifique félicitation, j'espère pouvoir venir à la maker faire de Lyon si vous y serez ;)
FRENCH MODE OFF

Merci beaucoup ça fait plaisir!

Oui, nous serons bien à la Maker Faire Lyon fin mai, n'hésitez pas à passer nous voir!

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