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Reprap - AtomX Micro Bot

by RepRapOsterlen, published

Reprap - AtomX Micro Bot by RepRapOsterlen Mar 26, 2016
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9541Views 2236Downloads Found in 3D Printers

Summary

Added 2016-05-13

//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
If you ask in comments or message me be patient as i started a new nightshift work that makes me pretty tired.
Only so you know.....

Update 2016-05-08 ( Nr 7 )

Uploaded repetier beta firmware to be used.

This works with there browser based easy to use configuration tool.

I use the same sockets to power the board to power the fan that cools the hotend so its fool proof to avoid clogged nozzles because you forget.

https://www.repetier.com/

Always be carfull when using beta firmware like this!!!!

Update 2016-04-17 ( Nr 6 )

Uploaded the last part so its now final and there will simply be upgrades and fine adjustements to parts now only.
the part is a z carriage extender and spacer.

Update 2016-04-16 ( Nr 5 )

Uploaded print cooler and my minimalistic addon to stiffen the z base a bit with longer threaded rods.

Update 2016-04-10 ( Nr 4 )

Uploaded new endstop holder designs.

Update 2016-04-07 ( Nr 3 )

Uploaded images so the ramps and lcd mount are more clear to put together.

Update 2016-03-28 ( Nr 2 )

Started uploading revision parts on things I have bin reported and requests.
The x carriage have bin changed so you now nead 47-50mm long m3 screws to attach the motor.
The original where done so you neaded to use a dremel to cut small bits of to fit the motor,it where done like that to make it easier to print.
Rev2 parts do not nead this anymore!!!

If you already printed the old x carriage and don't want to cut it so is there a motor spacer if you don't want to print the new one and waste plastic.

Also made a small revision on the Bowden mount as some builders thought they neaded to sand and grind to much to fit there Bowden.
I lowered the thicknes in this area with 0.25 mm so should work better.

Removed old x carriage as its obsolete and better with the new thicker one.
It do not impact the suggested print size on y as we now have 200mm long rod on y as default.
Keep suggestions coming but please post them here so its easier for me to track ;)

Temporary bom on the reprap wiki iam working on and not final.

It will be put here also when its more final and closer to be finished.

Pre assembly...
https://youtu.be/bEwji7QfVgc

Beta assembly guide part 1..
https://youtu.be/EeeoEcFTKqA

Beta assembly guide part 2..
https://youtu.be/urjjlJxU6iw

Its alive....
https://youtu.be/iiAD7D7nIw4

Bom will be added during a longer time :)

This is a early beta access.

http://reprap.org/wiki/AtomX

Print Settings

Printer:

Duplicator 4-5

Rafts:

No

Supports:

No

Resolution:

0.2

Infill:

13-20%

How I Designed This

Tinkercad during a weekend for fun.
Inspired by makerbot cupcake.

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what is the term to describe this printer where the z axis only goes up and down. The extruder doesn't move in any other directions?

reprap z head.

Anyone have a full electronic parts list for this?

it should be on the reprap wiki and link is on the main page here.
If someone havent changed the page i once created there ????

I just found my next project! Thanks a lot for your hard work and great design.

I have a question - can I use just regular Merlin with your printer? You are using off the shelf Ramps 1.4. And what changes should I make to the Configuration.H file?

Thanks a lot for your reply.

Hi.
yes the ramps is pretty much off the shelf.
I where a while i worked on this so i dont have it straight out off the head.
I shortly after this project started a new work place that takes all my time so iam a bit off with my projects currently.
There should be repetier files in the project you could check?
But basicly so is it the same settings of a basic prusa but smaller print area and wathever hotend you have :)
Its only that x and y is all in the bed ;)

Thank you very much for your quick reply.
I should be able to figure it our from here.

Feb 4, 2017 - Modified Feb 4, 2017

What size steppers did you use? 40mm 1.7Amps for all?
I'm planning on using 17HS4401 all around, but your X and Y Steppers seem smaller sized in the pictures.

And can you tell me if the x-motor spacer is needed? I can't figure out where to install it.

Did you also see the green one made by jonix. He added a threaded rod to the Z tower for extra strength. Is that something you think would be nice to add?

Yes i used the same motors all around and is the common 40 mm 1.7 a.
x motor spacer is only neaded if you printed the old carriage the x motor is mounted on :)
Not on revision 2.
jonix version with extra threaded rod is probably because he extended the height so much .

Thanks for clearing this up.

I have almost printed all the parts now :)
Will post a make when all the parts arrive from China and have it together.

Great project!!

Where do you source rods threaded and non threaded? Om a swede to And only find china sites

You could check this store in malmö if they have threaded rods home ??
http://reprappro.me/
I usually buy smooth rods from a local hardware store that have straight good ones :)
I belive there is some other store in sweden called 3d grottan that could have smooth rods??
http://3d-grottan.se/index.php?route=common/home
Havent built anything for a while now because my employement sucks all energy :)

Finished my printer, complètes with 12x12cm bigtree heatbed and found a 11,5x11,5 cm perfect fit cistless builtak on amazon. Just add autolevel and it will be topfashion.please explain how to setup type of adhésion in repetier menu. Maybe set the z endstop with nothing on it than change offset in the menu blue tape kapton of buildtak?

Probably a rough setting you tune with offset?

OK fine job. Hope you will find a valable stable settelment/ job to employ your great many skill Best regards

I got full employment at the factory this summer :)
Every work counts but sucks you dry of energy with rotating three shift.
I have differrent working hours every week.

The project employment is some xtra work that includes cad work,3d printing and construction for a global company.
Not much money there but something for the cv ;)

Moin,

first I want to thank you for the youtube vids, they are very helpful to understand the build.
And here is my modification proposal for the bedmount which cause in easier bed leveling: I would replace the two front parts with just one. This saves you one bearing and allows you a three-point bed leveling like an other printers.

And last but not least. My 3d skillz are unspeakable bad. I could make just a handdrawing of my idea :-/

It could look like http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:31633 from below.

Mendel90 x-carriage with z probe

I had planned to do a bunch of uppgrades but do not have time as i currently have 2 work places.
One at a factory and and a project employement after that work ends :)
I will try to look on all suggestions when i get some spare time :)

Wanted to pass on what a great design I think this is. I have made a few mods and posted some 1 piece designs for the bed and X-axis a few others in work.

Sounds cool :)
And thanks for the feedback.

I am absolutely in love with the compactness of this design. Great work!

thanks :)
I still try to check wath you all do to the design from time to time but its hard with my current work :)

Nice job. Tried to print 15% ABS light but seems to be toi light. Will complete with a12 x12 cm perfectly fitting bigtree heatbed . assembled top with gt2 belt First.thanks

sounds cool :)

Hello, quick update. I just managed in repetier firmware to declare the heatbed and a few temperatures set up. More french menu which made the final setup., including cleaning wires arrangement . thanks a lot. Perfect took on my daughter's desk she s entering arts decos paris

fun to see but i dont know if it where good or bad as i dont understand russian ;)

How much did this build cost you to make?

Hard to estimate as i used all bits from my junkpile :)

Jun 7, 2016 - Modified Jun 7, 2016

I was collecting the "vitamins" to build either a Snappy or a Prusa i3. But this looks like a really fun build!
I've already got the 200x200 heated bed and glass. How much modification would be required to get it up to a bed that size? Longer rods on X/Y, and looks like scaling the carriage on the X axis, but would that be it?

(I would likely ditch the glass I already have and switch to aluminum to give it that nice even heat distribution. My intent is for both PLA/ABS printing)

Iam really not sure it will be stable enough if you expand the print area that much ???

I cant recomend it but if you do post a remix :)

any chance of firmware
love your designs
thanks

I messed up mine and haven't had the time to go thru it so far again :)

Iam starting a new work place this Monday and its 3 shift work hours.

It means I have rotating working hours and is a pain but good pay ;)

I had it all running on repetier but somethings did simply not feel right so I decided to use marlin that I have not finished.

I could reuse the funbot i1 firmware and make proper changes as its faster if you want??

change funbot i1 firmware would be great
thanks

I found my beta repetier firmware that works so try it and let me know if you have any issues :)

Apr 17, 2016 - Modified Apr 17, 2016

I add a thread rod to Z axis and mount Y axis to MDF wood board,
now it stiffer like Funbot i1

Bonus is easy to set Z to 90 degree easily.

Could you share your firmware for the atom x as I messed up mine to other builders ?

I haven't had the time to rewrite and fix the mistakes I made :)

Noticed now that my z carriage extender is almost identical to yours :)

Must have seen it and got stuck in the back of my mind ;)

Looks very good :)

Iam trying to keep the original as close to a true reprap as possible so far with as much printed parts as possible :)

Working on the addon to expand z carriage for longer y bed right now etc.

Will be a easy slide in part if someone wants to extend it :)

Trying to keep it as modular as possible .

looks like a great project, i have a couple spare parts lying around and want to try building this. Can you share what size nema motors you're using.. what's the oz/in? also what soze power supply? i have a 10a but i'm not sure if it's large enough, thanks!

standard nema 17 motors that you use on any prusa i3 :)

I used a bit overkill on my nema 17 because they are 1.7 amps and where the ones I had at home ;)

Iam my self using a 5 amp supplie and works so you should be good :)

The prototype used a 10 a one and works great as we don't have a heated bed that's not neaded on a pla machine.

This looks like a great project! I'm ready to get started now!

A question: I've got enough 8mm rods for this (from a couple old HP inkjet printers), but no 6mm rods. Would that be an easy mod and still work the same?

Honestly so would it be very tight :)
But if you do any remixes for it please share it here as a remix ;)
I do not recommend larger then 6mm rods where they are used ;)

Thanks! I've got the parts printed, now just need to get all the hardware. Much fun!

I also have smooth and threaded rods leftovers from funbot i1, I'm planning to modify the holes on the parts to fit them.. I'm guessing either editing the model or drill the hole with the size of your rods should work..

Don't recommend larger then 6mm where I used them ;)

I wanna use my prusa i3 rods and parts (two z rods and two threaded rods).....I'll print over time on my prusa before I disassemble it and use the parts :D

Keep the prusa and source parts ;)

Prusa is probably a better machine as mine is a for fun microbot :)

Prints well but a limited size have its drawbacks :)

Apr 6, 2016 - Modified Apr 6, 2016

AWESOME the thingiverse page is setup, hey Cliff,I'm Atul from the facebook reprap group :D

the Atom looks beautiful!

Apr 6, 2016 - Modified Apr 6, 2016
RepRapOsterlen - in reply to crazytoool

I cant miss that profile image ;)
Welcome ;)

Bed files contain solid cylinder.
Does it need or not?

only there to make the pla cool off on the main piece on the parts that hold the bearings off the bed pieces.
If you have good print coolers so can it be removed on all off them.

Comments deleted.

Hello Cliff,
I could not learn your email but learned your name :) Do you think z carriage can carry MK8 extruder ? In pictures, slots for Lm8uu bearings are longer than stl file

iam more worried the weight could make the z axis lean forward of the share weight.

iam using a converted mk8 as a Bowden extruder.

Only neads a pfte tubing fitting that fits inside the hole the nozzle throat is :)

I have not tested with a mk8 mounted on this??

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