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bendansie

Plunderbuss Pete

by bendansie Sep 2, 2013
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Dude! I have to say this model is amazing! Prints stupid easy and looks great! Well done!

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Thanks! Glad you like it.

Is that a paint or a filament in that metallic pic (and what kind)? It looks really cool!

The metallic pic is actually a bronze cast a mate of mine tried at the time, was experimenting with heat patina on bronze to get those colours.

Wow, thanks for "dedicating" him! The high seas of public domain need more folks of this caliber!

Thanks, glad you like it!

After reading the comments here I 'fixed' the issue with the cloak and the base for Simplify 3D by deleting the joining faces and filling the gap in MeshMixer - hope this helps - STL file attached. Now this produces a single unified shell at the intersection of cloak and base ...

it's spelled Blunderbuss, in case this was a typo.

Deliberate to get the alliteration going, but thanks :)

Simplify3D failed me....Got to the last minute of the print and the print failed because the feet and cape were not one with the base. Didn't notice it in the preview.... Slic3r would have worked.... Grrr...

EDIT: Failed because it thinks the STL file is two models placed together vs a solid model.

Hi Brad,

Sorry to hear about the failed print! I still haven't tried Simplify3D, but it is a recurring problem people are having with my models (and I'm guessing all models) that have overlapping shells like the base.

I really only use Slic3r, the UP software and services like Shapeways. Occasionally Cura. So I haven't noticed it until people started giving me feedback on Thingiverse.

Would be easy enough to make a solid of this model too, but hadn't got to that yet.

No problem at all... I been using Slic3r for a year and just went to S3D recently. I didn't know it had this issue. Learning for me and the limits of the software. My second print went fine after figuring out what happened.

For anyone with the issue it can be fixed using the Microsoft 3D repair website or if in S3D use the "Separate Connected Surfaces". The function allows the slicer to make one solid model.

Definitely on my To Print List!

Would love to know how you did the paint job!

cheers

Seems I forgot to mention, but the fourth photo isn't painted, it's a bronze cast done straight from a PLA print on the Printrbot Jr.

Hi all,
A huge thank you to everyone who is posting their photos of their makes of this piece! I've got plenty of ideas for other sculpts I want to share, but have that problem that many creative types have where I start 5 - 10 projects for each one I actually finish... However, seeing all the photos come in from various types of printers around the world is a very cool and inspiring thing.
Glad you like the model!
Cheers,
Ben.

That's some really great work there!

Would you be willing to share a less decimated version? I'd like to try and convert it to NURBS, but the process needs way more polygons or the results will look faceted, especially in the beard and face. I'd guess for this model, something around two million or more would be ideal.

Sorry about the delay, I was meaning to just send you a link to a higher res version and sort it out. Just keep forgetting in the moments when I have the time. :) Don't think I'll put the higher res one on Thingiverse but I'm happy to pass it on with a private link. Just in terms of file size and causing unnecessary work with slicing the high res model for people who didn't find this one.

Any chance you'd pass along the hi rez version for my own personal use? I'd like to make a tap handle out of this!

Howdy. Haven't forgotten, just haven't had the chance to check if the high res is still on my server of if I have to upload it again. Do you happen to mean a tap of the frosty beverage variety? Depending on how big you print it, the jacket flowing edges might start to get in the way of a decent grip. Anything under about 14 cm should work ok though, unless you want to use Blender or something to bring the jacket edge in a bit.

Nice sculpting there! Yarr!! ;-)

Very nice model I've made some rendering of it under thea render. You can find some results https://picasaweb.google.com/100681989362163532441/2013Render#https://picasaweb.google.com/1... . Hope you'll like what I've made of it. (I also made a little turntable like anim here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WURrCCoGMRk)http://www.youtube.com/watch?v...

Very curious to know more about your modeling process.

This particular piece I would do slightly differently next time. I made a really simple mesh (less than 100 polys) for the pirate by extruding from a cube and another mesh for the base plate, both in Blender. I then exported them to Zbrush and got straight to sculpting. Just the standard, pinch, inflate, move and flatten brushes. Nothing that couldn't be done entirely in Blender, but I own Zbrush and quite enjoy it. The decimation plugin in Zbrush is great and is used on this model.

What I would have done differently is put more detail in to the pirate base mesh and split it in to two - one for the main pirate and one for the jacket. If you slice up / print the model, you'll notice the flowing jacket is very uneven in thickness. As a finished printed model it's not that noticeable to look at, but even thickness would have been much easier to do if the jacket was a separate mesh. The more detailed base mesh would have had me think over forms a bit more carefully, but I wanted to get straight in to the sculpting.

As for designing without support material, the first step was sketching it on paper and drawing angled lines around the place to just eyeball the overhangs. When the sculpt was getting towards it's final form, I brought the model back in to Blender which now has inbuilt 3d printing tools for checking overhang, wall thickness, etc. Blender and Thingiverse user macouno has recorded some Creative Commons training on those features, example here - http://youtu.be/HolxfI4XgCEhttp://youtu.be/HolxfI4XgCE

Some overhangs on the model are more severe than others, but printed with decent slicer settings they all work ok.