Hey! This thing is still a Work in Progress. Files, instructions, and other stuff might change!

KaptonCaddy V1.1

by Mr_MegaTronic Dec 10, 2011
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Awesome idea!  But is there anyway you could make one that has another level for a drawer, in order to fit an 8" roll of Kapton tape? I think it would just mean making the Body.stl file have 3 levels instead of two, but I could be wrong.

I've never had much luck editing STL files, or I'd give it a shot myself.


I love your Kapton caddy! Very handy indeed with lots of space for storage! Two suggestions if I may, one is to add a radius or fillet edge on the bottom of the tray where the post goes through to make it sit better on the shelf, I used a knife and it sits better now. Second would be to tighten up the tolerances, I ended up with some slop in the connections, they seem a little large. I like that you can take off the top and the trays but they fall off too easily but with the roll of tape on those tiny issues don't really matter, once again a great, very printable, very practical and clever design!

My settings were

layer height .2

infill 60%

no extra shells

Nice 1! :-D

Thank you for a very cool way to organize my hex keys (allen wrenches)! I Printed mine multicolor (red and black - see image) with 2 shells and 15% infill. You need a bit of infill for the thick parts, but you don't need 2 shells. I'd recommend 1 shell and 15% infill. My pieces were difficult to asseble without some sanding and my hex keys don't fit in the holes (holes are too small). No biggie, I can drill them to size. But it would have probably been perfect if I'd used 1 shell instead of 2.

Hmm, I uploaded the same picture to my comment and to the "I made one" section. The "i made one" pic has the correct orientation and the comment pic is on it's site. WTF? DONT_KNOW

Nice design. It's pretty economical on filament too.... only used 37.46m of 1.75mm.

Glad you like it! When I last printed this, my printer wasn't very tight so a lot of the tolerances were off. On your print, are the hinges for the containers very loose? Or just slightly snug. I have not re-printed this and was wondering if I should thicken and/or lengthen the hinges.

I agree, this is really cool. The thing Im most curious about is how do you actually use the 4" kapton in the first place? My roll is setting here neglected b/c its too much of a PITA to apply.

It's tough. I've had the best luck by doing the following:

  1. Unroll a good sized section (a bit longer than you need by two inches or more)
  2. Fold the tape back over the roll (so the part you unrolled is now sticky side out)
  3. Press edge of tape just after fold onto the build platform (making sure to get the tape parallel to the platform)
  4. Use an X-A
    cto knife to cut the tape from the roll
  5. Roll the tape roll (which I'm still holding the cut piece to) across the platform

This does a great job of avoiding major bubbles. I often get a few small ones, but it's not that bad. This tends to work really well. I did a better job by hand (once), but m
ost of the time I ended up messing up.

WOW! This worked surprisingly well first time I tried it. Thanks!

Check out the application instructions below (YouTube):


Basically involves using soapy water so you can slide the tape around and squeegee out the bubbles. Sounds weird, but I can testify that it's real simple and works like a charm. (I can remember using this technique decades ago on some long forgotten elec
tronics project that needed a smooth application of a big piece of tape.) The only drawback is you have to wait for the water to dry. I keep a second aluminum plate on hand (they're cheap), so I can swap to a new plate, keep printing, and reapply later.

I use the soapy water technique with good results. Just be careful to not get too much water on the HBP connectors. I usually put some wadded up paper towels around the platform before I apply the water with a sponge.

Works well. After I get it on there good and trim with an exacto I'll usually turn up the platform heat to around 70C for a couple minutes to help it dry.

Yeah, I have major OCD with applying the tape to the build platform. If I get a single bubble or it is mis-aligned, I freak out. I have the same problem with phone screen protectors....(hate them so much)...

ANYWAYS, I'm designing an applicator for the tape to streamline the process. Basically a frame that holds a square of tape taut so it can be placed on the build-surface quickly and easily.

If only I could get hold of some Kapton in South-Africa... (And if somebody knows where, spread the love!)


just normal UVlight-tough painting tape works fine.

its nano structure and little hairs stick very well to hot PLA.

Comes in varius colours.. i think standard is the light yellow one and the blue is the UV light-tough one.

here you go:


Seriously awesome concept - I'm really looking forward to seeing the finished print!

Printed and ready! I have a few things to adjust, but it works alright. The drawer hinges are loose and the insert feels a bit flimsy, but otherwise functional!

I love this concept! If I could make one suggestion, I think the snaps (not just the bottom ones as you mentioned) are going to be difficult to print. Perhaps a close fit would be better? I really look forward to seeing this in action!

I concur with the sentiment on snaps. The snaps printed in this orientation are too prone to breaking since they have the layer orientation working against them. For them to be truly effective they need to be printed like Tony s Bobble head bot.

There entirely separate and printed in the laying flat position so they have layer strength helping them out. Awesome design tho, and with a few slight tweaks it will be even cooler!

I'm printing the whole thing out right now and that is indeed a problem. ^__^ Be prepared for V 1.1 shortly!