e-NABLE Phoenix Hand v2

by EnableCommunityFoundation, published

e-NABLE Phoenix Hand v2 by EnableCommunityFoundation Mar 30, 2016

Design Tools

Blender Tinkercad Fusion 360

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This is a remix of the original e-NABLE Phoenix hand by Jason Bryant with replacement components by John Diamond, Scott Darrow and Andreas Bastian. A full assembly guide is included. The changes from the original are as follows:

  • Gauntlet - Original fully 3D printed version replaced with a thermoformed equivalent (lighter, stronger, uses less filament, quicker to print and can be adjusted to better fit the forearm)
  • Gripper box components - Whippletree doesn't require tying to the swivel pin using string. The printing support from the swivel pin should be cut/snipped/filed off before assembly. The thumb tensioner pin is shorter so it doesn't need to protrude from the front of the gripper box.
  • Thermoformable palm mesh - An easier to assemble alternative to using Velcro in the palm. Can be thermoformed and adjusted to fit the recipient. Two alternative versions, thin/thick, are provided.
  • Palm with supports - The support structure uses less filament than the original and can be easily, safely and cleanly removed by hand usually without tools.
  • Demo bar - Used instead of the palm mesh if the hand is to be used for demonstration purposes. It allows a person with a full set of fingers and thumb to wear the hand and operate it.
  • Wrist pin - This pin has been shortened to allow it to be used with the thermoformed gauntlet.

Print Settings








0.2mm layers




A video demonstrating how to thermoform a gauntlet is available at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BihhKHjguZY

A full assembly guide including a list of additional components and recommended assembly tools is included in the list of files.


Consult the included Phoenix Assembly Guide

File Name



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Comments deleted.

Hi All Makers,

I have an Anet 8 printer and regarding the Phoenix 2.0 hand assembly (ABS material), although I have managed to print the palm, digits, pins etc. I can't seem to print the gauntlet without the painters tape on the glass plate becoming unglued, the end result being the flat printed gauntlet piece ends up peeling off in a convex profile and any attempt at thermoforming results in the sides of the gauntlet breaking and everything else becoming miss-shapen. Two attempts have been tried using different tape, prit stick, hairspray etc. with the same results. I have thought about using a piece of frosted glass as a means of a stable, solid adhering surface, but I haven't yet found a source. Any suggestions?


Is it possible to find original source files ( sat files ) format ?

Hi Thank you for responding

Hi just getting started with my test print what filament works better ABS or PLA

Hi have only used PLA and different Layer setting for some of the parts

Has anyone had any trouble printing the palm mesh? My printer won't do it. There are too many slots, so the extruder is zipping around, and doesn't have enough time to adhere to the bed. I am going to try low speed and a higher bed, but I was wondering if anyone had another way to cope with this.

I had no problem using scotch glue stick on a cold bed on glass.
on hot bed it takes hours because you must reduce your initial layer speed to 20mm/s or less

with cura check the setting of 'combing mode'

Never mind, I got it. It just took some patience.

Is anyone having trouble slicing the palm_left_new_Support or palm_right_new_Support? When I try using Slic3r Prusa Edition the side walls aren't being sliced and are displaying as empty. When adding supports the top and bottom are connected by supports. Its very frustrating and I am not sure whats causing this

I am having the same issue. I uploaded them to makeprintable.com for STL repair and they work now. There were 54 non-manifold edges in the STL that Slic3r could not fix. I have attached the repaired STL's here

same here. In left and right, tons of errors and an incorrect render. It seems there are some issues with the STL or slic3r is skipping a few beats

Hi, I'm running into an issue with wrist pin thermo being to short. I've printed at 115% and tried pin at 120% and it still is to short. When I stretch it on my software the whole thing becomes bigger so any more than 120% would not fit.

I had the same problem. I printed my first hand at 100%. they said that was a bad idea due to the difficulty of assembly but I'm a glutton for punishment. I actually imported the wrist pins into SketchUp and stretched them .070" and then they worked fine.

The File "palm_right_new_supports" contains a bunch of Errors, Prusa Slic3r puts out fragmented, unusable Gcode. With Simplify3D, the Model slices and prints correctly. Repair attempts with Netfabb (that im still pretty new with) have proven unsuccessful so far.

Yes, my solution has been to use "pam_left_new_supports" and flipping it to get the right palm.

Could you upload or send me the file you used for palm _supports for the right hand?!

I am not sure what fingers to print since there are only 3 finger files
If you could help with that that would be great.

You need to download the assembly instructions in the thing files, it tells you which fingers are short and which are long.

This is amazing, I'm printing out the pieces right now, wish there was a check list and a bill of materials with links to amazon or elsewhere for non printed additional parts added to the pdf. Still I can't wait to be able to make dozens of these for those who need them free of charge. Thank you for allowing us the honor to being able to do this.

3D UNIVERSE is ok for the no printable parts at 30USD but at 48USD UPS postage sorry there has to be another source in the UK that is cheaper. Looking at the bill of Materials will update whenhave some answers.

Comments deleted.

I just remixed the control box for the PHv2 and posted it elsewhere on Thingi. Rounded the edges, less sharp.

Is there a complete print list of the part names and count needed for one hand?

This would be really helpful!

One thing I have noticed with the palm right new supports is the at the top of the palm there is a circle that is printed in mid air. I am using S3D so I just added some supports in but it might be something you want to take a look at. :)

what is that white padding on the inside of the hand

That is Firm Foam padding;


Hello all,
Does anyone know where to buy the parts required as a kit? I found one dead link, and the matterhackers and 3d universe kits for the Raptor.


If your in the USA 3d Universe if out side like UK look to source else where as Kits cost 48USD Postage Plus the Kit 30USD

Can we add a left and right palm with integrated mesh? Like the Phoenix that is auto-generated from your measurements here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1672381

The UnLimbited Arm v2.1 - Alfie Edition

thank you for this beautiful project. I am new on the theme of 3d printing. I bought a printer "Prusa". I wanted to know if i have to print the hand do i have to print piece by piece? I am asking this because i saw videos where the printer does all the work at once.
Can someone help mean i want to participate on this theme to make and donate.
Thank you

You can print piece by piece or in your slicer program combine pieces if you have a large print area. It will all depend on your printer but you can play around in the slicer software. I have seen STL's that are already combined for folks to print.

I'm trying to print the palm on a RostockMaxV2 using MatterControl and the support box, while recognized in MatterControl, doesn't print on the machine. I just get a bunch of stringy mess. I've tried everything I can think of. Downloading the newest software, deleting and re-downloading files, factory reset, scaling, printing with a raft, just stumped. I'm printing from an SD card if it matters. Help?

Are you able to print other STLs without the stringy mess? Stringy mess tends to be the result of print bed leveling issues with the first layer unable to adhere to the print bed but if you have tried factory reseting and setting it with a raft then maybe its these STLs. I will download and try myself as well.

I also tried this on my RostockMax V2 using Matter Control and saw the exact same thing you did. Try changing the slicer on the settings tab from MatterSlice to CuraEngine. That seemed to do the trick for me.

Phoenix v2 Silicone Overmolding + string tensioner
by benand

I've been experimenting with silicone overmoulding, first test looks really promising. I'll post the designs when I'm finished. Does anyone know who has the original CAD files for the phoenix v2?


The left palm stl is non-manifold and won't slice in slic3r even with it's attempt to auto-repair. I've got a version I cleaned up in freecad/meshlab if that'd help but editing the original cad files would produce a cleaner result (one area on the little-finger side of the index finger, and one area on the index finger side of the little finger if you have trouble finding them).

Also, a tiny little fillet under the front curved section where the fingers connect on the first few layers would make it significantly easier to print (the first few layers along the front edge are suspended in air which causes many printing issues even at very thin layer heights)

Hi everyone, kudos on printing these prosthetics.
I have a question in regards to the palm mesh right supplied.
Is there a palm mesh left created, or is this intended to work for both left and right?
Thank you for your help.

Comments deleted.

I am printing the Phoenix exclusively and I need to know how to convert the percentages, 100, 105, 110, 115..170%, into ages, and, or sexes. This way I can match up a person's age to the right size percentage.

a) Is it better to get the exact measurements of the limb before printing?

b) Would it be better to print a palm support larger and supply more foam to the client if they needed to use it because the palm was oversize? Oversize is better than undersized, isn't it?

c) What if I am unable to obtain these measurements?

d) Should the person put their limb up against a scaled graph and have a close-up image taken and sent to me? I'm open for suggestions.

e) How many years on average before a larger size palm needs to be supplied to the client if under 18?

Thank you for your time.


Trying to locate the Formula for measuring a candidate for the Phoenix?

Did you ever fine a sizing chart for the Phoenix v2?

I did not, still need it too

I got in contact with John Diamond. The Phoenix v2 is a remix of the Raptor Reloaded. You can use the sizing info for the Raptor Reloaded. Here is what I found:

Linear Scaling (easy)

The main measurement used in sizing the Raptor Reloaded is the width of the recipient's complete hand at the knuckles. At 100% scale, the palm of the Raptor Reloaded measures 55mm at its widest point. To get the appropriate linear scaling factor for scaling the STLs, add 5mm (to account for the thickness of padding in the printed palm) to the width of the recipient's complete hand at its widest point. Divide this number by 55 to get the scaling factor for the STLs. For example, if the palm is 65mm wide, then 65 + 5 = 70, and 70 / 55 = 1.27, so the scaling multiplier would be 1.27 or 127%. Make sure to apply the scaling factor to all of the parts to ensure that they fit together. At higher scales, the clearances between the moving parts of the hand will grow, so glue or other modifications may be necessary to ensure that all the pieces stay secured to each other.

Parametric (more involved):

Because radial and lateral clearances for motion assemblies are absolute, linear scaling can cause problems at large scales. For those with some CAD experience, the native Fusion 360 source files as well as STEP and IGES files are available here. Detailed technical drawings can be found on the github. For an introduction to modeling in Fusion 360, see the Getting Started in Fusion 360 page on enablingthefuture.org.

We both did the same thing LOL I finally figured out where it was I seen the formula. Thanks for your Help MetzgerSMP.

Is there a video tutorial on how to build this?

The Palm with supports, the support width is too thin to be rendered with a 0.5mm nozzle on Cura. Any chance to get an updated version with thicker walls on the supports? (I should add, this is at 105%)

I was having the same problem. I was trying to print at 100%.
I think I fixed my problem using slic3r. It has a setting to detect thin walls.
I use Repetier-Host. It has both slic3r and Cura.

Great work! Starting a scaled print today for my son, in tandem with the unlimbited arm. Really appreciate your efforts on this.


Comments deleted.