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ulletjes extruder

by freebear, published

ulletjes extruder by freebear Mar 30, 2016

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Summary

This is a remix of the Lyman / Mulier Filament Extruder V5.
I call it the ulletjes extruder.
Because I using it to make 3D printer filament from bottle caps (hdpe).
And in dutch we sometimes call bottle caps "ulletjes".
I was looking for a way to create inexpensive filament with recycled materials.
Also it was a cheap way to test my extruder and update him.
First I made my extruder and soon I came to the conclusion that I needed a way to control the filament control the thickness and roll it up on a spool.
I find the solution in the Lyman / Mulier Filament Extruder V5.
But I had already built my extruder with a car windscreen wiper motor.
The Lyman / Mulier Filament Extruder V5 uses geared stepper motors and a complicated Arduino Mega, ramps and the Filament Width Sensor by flipper for control.
I wanted to simplify and reduce costs by using regular DC motors fewer components .
But I wanted to continue to use the Filament Width sensor and a Arduino for control.
And with the help of Filip Mulier, i also succeeded.

instructions

I use the following things for the controle
1x Filament Width Sensor Prototype Version 3 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:454584
1x arduino uno
1x LCD 1602
1x motor driver L293B
1x potmeter 10K
1x 5A Constant Current/Voltage LED Driver Battery Charging Module
2x small DC gear motor ratio 100:1
1X PC powersuply 3v 5v 12v
1x 30v power suply
1x narrow beam white LED

Normally you should use the 5 volt output of arduino uno to supply the Width sensor but
I have experienced that it is unstable because it is already powering the LCD and motor driver.
And sensor really requires a correct and constant 5v power supply.
So I use a PC power supply that I already used in my extruder.
And I also use another LED for the Width Sensor.
It is now a narrow beam of white LED powerd by the PC power suply.
With this setup I achieve much better results.
you should be careful that all the grounds of the various power supplies and components are well connected.
Also do not use thin wires. I use 0.75mm² otherwise you get too much loss of power which results in poor display.
The wires that come with an Arduino or breadboard are rubbish.
For the winder motor I do not use the Arduino, first I'd have done this but I sometimes get a bad read on the LCD display.
Because the Arduino is already busy working on a series of calculations.
I now use a 5A Constant Current/Voltage LED Driver Battery Charging Module.
With this regulator powering the motor, the motor speed is allowed to vary, but the torque (pull) of the motor is fixed.
No matter what speed the motor is running it will have the same pull.
This is the same as a slipping wheel. But the slipping wheel is still present in my setup just in case.
but if you continue to use the slipping wheel, you can use any speed controller.

arduino sketch

arduino sketch

include < LiquidCrystal.h > //lcd bid

const int setpoint=1.75;
const int b=0.05;

LiquidCrystal lcd(12,11,10,9,8,7); //lcd pinnen
// motor 1 puller width sensor
const int sensorPin=A0; // sensorpin
const int motorPin1=4; // ingangpin 1 motor 1 chip1 3a/10
const int motorPin2=5; // ingangpin 2 motor 1 chip1 4a/15
const int motorPWM1=6; // motor 1 PWM chip1 3.4emble 9

int snelheid1=0; // variabele voor de snelheid

void setup() {
// initialize serial communication at 9600 bits per second:
Serial.begin(9600);
lcd.begin(16,2); // lcd instellen
lcd.clear(); //clear the lcd

//motor 1 puller

pinMode(motorPin1, OUTPUT); //uitgangspin1 motor 1
pinMode(motorPin2, OUTPUT); //uitgangspin2 motor 1
pinMode(motorPWM1, OUTPUT); // motor PWM 1 motor
digitalWrite(motorPin1,HIGH); //standaard richting motor 1
digitalWrite(motorPin2,LOW); //standaard richting motor 1
}
void loop() {

int sensorValue=analogRead (A0); // read the input on analog pin 0:
float voltage=sensorValue*(5.0/1023.0); // Convert the analog reading (which goes from 0 - 1023) to a voltage (0 - 5V):
snelheid1=analogRead(sensorPin); // snelheid inladen 10bit naar 8bit

analogWrite(motorPWM1,snelheid1);
if (voltage>setpoint) snelheid1 = snelheid1+b;
if (voltage<setpoint) snelheid1 = snelheid1-b;

if (snelheid1<0) snelheid1 = 0;
if (snelheid1>255) snelheid1 = 255;

// LCD
Serial.println(voltage);
Serial.println(snelheid1);
lcd.clear();
lcd.setCursor(0,0);
lcd.print("dikte1:");
lcd.setCursor(7,0);
lcd.print(voltage);
lcd.setCursor(12,0);
lcd.print("MM");
lcd.setCursor(0,1);
lcd.print("ulletjes 5.0");
delay(500);
} // eind loop

update

I shred them with an old modified paper shredder. I have added a photo of it and of test print. But i repeat the process of shredding a time or 10 until the pieces are small enough to extrude. The temperature to extrude varies between 180° and 210° it really depends on the circumstances. In the beginning it is a bit of searching and trying.

HELP HELP

Help help help I can comment or answer comments.
I've tried a lot, other web browsers, other computers, smartphones and tablets.
But I can not add a comment.
I have mailed a lot to Thingiverse but I get no help or support or mail.
They do not want to help me.
Can anyone help me please please,please.

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High Pressure Laminate

hallo können sie mir bitte sagen was sie benutzen als hitzeschutz platte?
Hello can you please tell me what you use as a heat shield?

High Pressure Laminate (volkeren, trespa)

how do you shred the bottle caps and what temperature do you set your extruder to? I have a Filastruder but haven't come up with a good way to shred plastic for it.

Well according to the filastruder instructions the pieces need to be at least .5 cm small. Didn't think to look in that direction (garden shredders)...been burning up blenders and food processors and paper shredders lol I will check that out. thanx much :)

The poster of this extruder is using a document shredder by the looks of the pictures. That might be an option too.

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