by hlyman, published

LYMAN FILAMENT EXTRUDER V3 by hlyman Sep 3, 2013
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The LYMAN FILAMENT EXTRUDER V3 is a complete filament extruding assembly for extruding 3D printer filament. It extrudes and winds the filament onto a spool which it then ready for use.

The BOM shows a cost figure of near $900. The extruder alone can be made for under $250.

See the video on YouTube:



This Thing has been a 6 month project. The uploaded manual will give you the information on making your own. I have included a cad dfx file for those who wish to improve, correct, add to or make for resale. As there are many folks with more know how than me, any suggestion with documentation is welcomed. Good luck, WORLD.

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would a nema 17 stepper motor be sufficient enough for this?... given some PLA gears are included for some additional torque

I don't know. It wouldn't be my choice. May work if geared slow enough.

Folks, I am not supporting any other Lyman Extruder now except V6 (Lyman Filament Extruder V6). I have three working one for white, one for black and the third for other colors. My last 1 kg spool tested at +/- .03mm. It is vertically mounted and the spool wind system is separate.

do you have a BOM for the v6, looking to build one... thanks

The BOM's are in the Instructions.
I do not make or sell Kits.

Could you accelarate the speed (like a coil of 330 m in 3 hours or 4).

Could you use a nozzle with multiple outputs ?

Hello Mr Hugh

Could you send the link fo V5 extruder? What is the speed, which kind of material work with ? PEt is possible ?


I have only extruded ABS. PET may be possible.
Speed 6 to 10mm per second.

Lyman / Mulier Filament Extruder V5
by hlyman

Where i can find the motor TD?044?013 ? tx

google it.
V3 is obsolete.
See V5 extruder

If you are thinking about building this item then send me a private message. I would like to sell my machine to free up space for a new project. You can purchase: the entire machine, the parts for the entire machine, or individual components. I will sell the parts for a discount over what they cost to order.
Here is a photo of the working machine that I built:

by mnutsch

We are having some problems wiring our electronics. We have everything wired correctly, We have power to motor and to fan, we are not using an encoded motor, no sabertooth or kangaroo, We are most closely following the v2 wiring diagram, but we can not get heat to our heat band. We are thinking maybe there are settings on the PID that we are not utilizing correctly, Can you tell us what the first thing to do with the PID should be? Also, the light on our solid state relay is not on, should it be on? If so, what might be the problem?

My guess is you have a faulty SSR. I have several. Other than that you have the wires connected incorrectly. The SSR light will come on if the SSR switch is working. You may have the positive and negative wires switched from the PID to SSR.

Thank you for the response, we solved that problem, we are extruding now, but we are getting what we have heard called "ramen" (we think). It is kind of bubbly and inconsistent. How far should the fan bracket be from the nozzle? We are using "reground" ABS and we are heating to 210c. We are not using a spool winder. Any suggestions? Thanks for everything!

I don't use reground ABS, so I can't help you. You could try drilling a couple of holes in the nipple about an inch from the flange for an air escape. Also try some consistent size pellets.

hey im looking for a screw pump just like you are using in the video where can i find it ? tnx!

It is homemade, the plastic parts are printed. Check the instructions. I printed mine with pla rather than AbS this for my uses works fine. I hope this answered your question.

hi i have got a few more question for you can you give me your email ?

whats the screw pump?

The pieces of plastic go into the pump, this type of pump is a screw pump,you can write it on google it will much easier for you to understand what i'm looking for.

Dear Mr Lyman, I have successfully your extruder, it works like a charm. Thank you for the detailed and well made instructions, they were easy and clear to follow.
For non americans planning to make a Lyman Filament Extruder V3, I give you the following information: It is difficult to obtain the Heat bands and drive rollers at a reasonable price, I had to purchase mine on trip to the USA, so if you are building one beware. Furthermore, no matter how close the metric to standard conversions are, the parts will never fit if you are mixing the two systems, so be prepared to do a lot of cnc milling if you are trying to combine the Urethene drive rollers with metric ball bearings. But I am very happy with the product and highly suggest people try to make one. Thank you Mr Lyman!

It is very pleasing to hear of your success in building a working extruder.
I would like to see pictures of your extruder.

Dear Mr. Lyman,
I have uploaded some pictures of the copy of your extruder to:
Kind Regards,


Probable cause of locking up is that your temp may be to high and overheating the core nipple back near the flange causing pellets to preheat and bind the spool. I extrude at a temp now of 185C. Take the assembly apart and clean out the nipple. You will have to do this carefully while it is hot. I had this same problem when I tried an aluminum nipple.

Hi Lyman, I'm building one using a geared stepper motor and arduino controlled. May I ask your opinion on this: it appears to be blocked up. Auger bit rotating at 11 rpm (max) and temperature 240 Celsius. Have you come across similar problem? Help woyuld be much appreciated. Thanks

Can anyone throw up a diagram/drawing of how to wire this thing if I only want to use the extruder and not the water cooler or spool winder? I am bit confused as to how the motor will be controlled....

See the latest version 4.1 where the water cooling is omitted and only cooled with a fan. Control your one motor with a switch and pot direct from the DC supply. Controller not needed for one motor unless your using a stepper motor.

Hellow. I'm from Russia. You filment extruder is very intresting for me.
I have read about new version 4. When it will be accessible for buying?
What about extrusion speed 3.00/1.75 filament in this version? What
does filament extruder v4 cost? Thank You.

The Lyman extruder costs about $900 to build as shown and takes about 12-14 hours to assemble & test. You will have to find a resource to print your parts, or buy a 3D printer. This exact version is being built & tested in Seattle, and we are working on offering a kit for $499, but you still have to print your own parts. Also, please note when you download the files off of Thingiverse, you have to either open the parts in inches (except for the Saber part) or multiply it by 25.4 It is possible there will be an updated assembled version of this extruder available assembled, but the timeline is looking to be towards June 2014 because we are sourcing parts in bulk.

did you make these kits??? and are they for sale???

Is there a scale for the printed parts? I opened them in slicer but they were really small

Scale them by 25.4 or open them in inches if your software will let you.

Perfect. Thanks!

This is really great! I'm creating an extruder for my senior design project for the Chemical Engineering department. Where did you find the coupler for the auger? I am struggling to find one for a 7/16" hex bore

Something I found is that the aluminum coupler for the extruder motor keeps getting torn on my build. You may want to go with the most durable coupler that you can find.

Is there any place i can by a kit for this and if so where?

Lyman Filament Extruder V4 will be published in the next few weeks.
There are several firms interested is furnishing kits and when that happens I will post a note with in Thing.

I am very interested in either building your machine or buying it for my students in my class. We have 7 3d printers 1 cnc router and a laser etcher. I have been trying to find the funds to buy a filament extruder but no luck for the price schools can pay. I came across your page and decided to send you a reply and hope I can hook up with this and my students. They are super excited we may have found a way to recycle our messed up prints and rafts along with making our own from plastic bottles, great recycle concept for the students. my email is [email protected] I look forward to hearing from you and thanks for helping make the engineers of tomorrow today. M.anderson

Do you have a WAG as to what a KIT cost might be? Nothing we'd hold you to... just trying to determine ballpart +- $100 or so.

What's the size of the largest 3D printed part?

165L X 90W X 105H mm +/-

Here is another motor that should be a decent enough substitute for anyone out there wondering: http://www.kysanelectronics.com/Products/Detail.php?recordID=5003http://www.kysanelectronics.co...

Hugh, there is something that I think you modified but didn't update in the build instructions. In the parts list and in the video there are LED's and resistors to make power lights. However the parts list also specifies SPST (Single Pull Single Throw) switches. The electrical wiring diagram also doesn't specify the LED's. In order to put a power light on an AC circuit, the switches need to be SPDT (Single Pull Double Throw). The LED and resistor have to be on a different parallel circuit connected to the same SPDT switch as the AC parts.

It's pole, not pull, and you can certainly use SPST switches with AC circuits. The lightswitches in your house are a prime example.

or you could use SPST switches and simply add an AC lamp. using an AC lamp in-circuit with the actual electronics, you could in theory also use the device itself as the resistive load for the lamp.

Since the SuperDroid motor specified in the BOM is not available I went ahead and got this one, hopefully it does OK: http://www.phidgets.com/products.php?category=38&product_id=3274E_0http://www.phidgets.com/produc...

Looks good, it has great torque, run it wide open and you may get 50" per minute. Let us know how you do with it. Also you will have to run the puller motor faster.

not messin with the other components for now, just the main extruder so hopefully I'm ok lol

I've read this thing up and down and cannot find the resize ratio for the STL parts. I'm looking at the #90 KNOB and its x=1.18mm y=1.57mm Z=0.72mm - what is the proper resize factor?

Up the scale X 25.4

The parts are drawn in inches.

Some feedback:

I could not get 3mm PLA to extrude properly. It was too liquid to get it started in the water and puller. I did however get 1.75mm PLA to extrude properly. I used a 1/16" drill bit to drill the plug. The filament extruded is consistent and almost the perfect diameter. I'm not even sure that you really need the water cooling for it.

Unfortunately the plastic mount for extruder motor snapped from the pressure. I am going to redesign my hopper assembly using something stronger than plastic to mount the extruder motor.

I think that the red and blank wires for the extruder motor to the Sabertooth may be reversed in the wiring diagram.

I powered the Sabertooth directly from the power supply instead of using a battery and it seemed to work fine.

was your plastic mount printed in abs or pla, and at what infill settings?

It is PLA. I'm not sure about the infill. I think that the problem might simply have been that I didn't let it heat up enough before starting the extruder motor (previously melted plastic was in the barrel). The aluminum adapter which connects the extruder motor to the auger bit was ripped in half.

Luckily I had a spare adapter. I've also repaired the mount for the extruder.

I was able to make a temporary replacement mount for the extruder motor out of leftover plexiglass.

PLA breaks down too easily, switch to ABS and at least 25% infill (or 50% like hugh says)

All my extruded parts are ABS with 50% infill. The filament I used was extruded on Version II.
Mount the motor on a 1/8" aluminum plate and attach it to the motor hopper part.
I now have Version 4 done and working great. I am not publishing it yet as I am looking for firm to make it.

Question for anyone who knows anything about motors, seeing as how the SuperDroid motor called for in the BOM won't be available for another 2 months, would this motor be an aqequate substitute: http://www.oem.co.uk/products/Motors/Motors_Geared_Motors/DC_Motors_Gears/Geared_Motors/Shayang_Ye_IG-42GM_DC_motor_with_planetary_gear/1159529-528577.htmlhttp://www.oem.co.uk/products/... ?

It looks fine to me if has an encoder, but trail and error. Use the Type 01 at 13rpm. You can also use a smaller one for the puller motor.

thanks brother, i really appreciate it. do you know of any specific motors you would recommend as substitutes?

Hey I really like the design, but when I downloaded the stl files I am not able to look at the dimensions and maybe modify it a little bit. I was wondering if you could send the file so I would be able to see the dimensions and able to change it.

="thingiverse-0c43ecc1c7f9e46ddb7512ade8e72487:disqus" href="http://disqus.com/thingiverse-0c43ecc1c7f9e46ddb7512ade8e72487/BEM Also, what motor did you use for this project as I have put in orders for everything else on the BOM but superdroid doesnt have the recommended one in stock so I am at a bit of loss at this point. Any help is appreciated, thanks

BEM, try MESH Mixer, Geomagic, Meshlab and Netfabb to modify STLs. Also, autodesk inventor (dunno what software you are using) has a plug in that allows for import and modification of STL files, as does Solidworks.

I am to busy now to do anymore downloads. Mount your motor to an aluminum plate and fit it to the hopper.

Nice work on this! I have a couple of questions. Is there any issue with the barrel/hopper getting too hot after extended running?
Also, does this do an acceptable job in final diameter control? The dimensions are one aspect but how does this filament react in a 3D printer?

The barrel is hot back to the flange connection. The hopper does not get hot if you have the insulation block installed correctly. The hopper is ABS. The the tolerance of the filament diameter vary +/- 0.10 mm. It reacts fine in my 3D printer, such as I have printed beautiful Aphrodite statues and dozens of good parts including 16 each 8" filament spools I use for winding filament on. It takes from 5 t0 7 hours to fill an 8" spool depending on your pellets and I have filled over 30 spools. so you see there is no problem with extended running.

Thanks for sharing all the info on this. I have all the parts coming to build just the extruder right now.

Hi, please share me your P, I, D factor value. On my case, temperature not stable, the tolerance is +/-4 celsius degree, I have tried many PID factor, but it's not better. The temperature not stable make the filament diameter not stable.

My PID varies (-) 0.2 to (+) 0.4 degrees C at 175 C, which I am now extruding PLA pellets at. It is the same PID used on my first extruder.

I'm having trouble getting PLA to extrude properly at high temperatures. I think that the temperature setting may depend on where your heat band and temperature sensor are in relation to the nozzle.

I finally finished building my v3 extruder!

by Cos

I've finished machining and assembling my Lyman v3 extrusion machine. The only thing that I have left is wiring.
Something which I'm not sure about is if the relay has to be solid state. I accidentally ordered a regular electro-mechanical relay instead of a solid state relay. Does anyone know of there is a problem with using a normal relay with a temperature controller?

Solid state is what you need in order to handle the PWM. Mechanical relay cannot handle to modulation cycles - I use Solid State for a large heat bed - mechanical did not work!

I'm getting pretty close to finishing building this extruder. Something I found is that part #'s 22 and 25 say M3 washers and screws. However these parts should be M4 size to fit the motors listed in the plans. Also, the screws need to be shorter than the 15mm listed. (I would guess that they can be ground down to the proper size.)

FYI - Part # 87, Sabertooth Standoff, is a 3D printed part. However it is not included in the STL files. I'm guessing that this only helps attach the motor driver to the control panel and isn't really a critical part.

As noted in the manual, page 38 "if needed machine the auger end to 3/8" ". This is what I did on my first one and I reamed the brass flange bushing with a 13/64" drill. The next three I use a 7/16" thrust bearing and it work perfect.

I just download the stl file for the Sabertooth. As my manual noted there would be some omissions. Sorry and thanks.

FYI - This wasn't obvious from the parts list. In retrospect a "pipe clamp" thermocouple for part # 30 would be preferable. I got a regular thermocouple and am now trying to figure out how to attach it to the nozzle assembly.

Here is my suggestion for part # 30. The outside diameter of part 14 is 0.8", so this should fit perfectly. http://www.amazon.com/0-400-Celsius-Temperature-Sensor-Thermocouple/dp/B00977HYZG/ref=sr_1_54http://www.amazon.com/0-400-Ce...

What are the specifics on the solid state relay for the v3? My friend and I are trying to build the v3 for a school project and we weren't sure which specifications the solid state relay must have.

If you study the wiring diagram you will see that it controls the heat band which is 110V. The PID controls the relay which regulates the temperature of the heat band (nozzle) at the desired temperature.

Are both input and output AC? Also, would a 240V solid state relay work? Thank you!

Input for the power supply would be AC if you are in the U.S. The motors listed in the design are DC, so the output of the power supply should also be DC.

I think that with a solid state relay you simply want to make sure that you do not exceed the maximum amperage and the voltage is within the allowed range. The relay should say on it what the max amps and voltage range are. Here's an image of a solid state relay: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Solid-state-relays.jpghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/F...

Maybe I misunderstand how the couplers (part # 24) work, but I think that they are listed with the wrong size. The parts list lists them as 10mmx6.35mm. However, they don't appear to fit. I think that they should 10mmx8mm couplers, where the 10mm end connects to the auger bit (part # 45) and the 8mm end connects to the motor (part # 23).

mnutsch, you are right. What I forgot was that the 10mm x 6.3 was one I had on hand and it machined it to fit. Also I drilled and tapped it for 4mm set screws for positive holding.

Along this same line of discussion, I think that part #'s 21 (thrust bearing), 26 (flanged brass bushing), and 27 (flat washer) should all be larger because they don't fit over part 45 (the auger bit).

I put together a list of all of the machining that is needed to make this. Here it is in case someone else finds it helpful:

  1. Print the 3D printed parts. Part #’s 58, 61, 62, 19, 33, 38
  2. Measure, cut, and drill the boards to size. Part #’s 3, 4, 5, 50, 51, 52, 70
  3. Drill the steel flat bar with both sizes of drill bit. 4 small holes (1 in each corner). 1 large hole in the center. Part # 17.
  4. Weld the steel flat bar and the nipple together. Part #’s 17 and 14
  5. Cut and drill the rigid insulator board. 4 small holes (1 in each corner). 1 large hole in the center. Part # 18.
  6. Drill a hole in the center of the ½” NPT Brass Plug. The hole should be either 1.75mm or 3mm. Part # 11
  7. Cut the auger bit to size. Part # 45
  8. Cut the 3/8” steel shaft to size, twice. Part #’s 31 & 39
  9. Measure, cut, and drill the plexiglass to make part # 35.
  10. Measure, cut, and glue the plexiglass to make part # 41.
  11. Measure, cut, and and drill the phenolic sheet to mark 4 washers, part # 49.

I'm making this thing and have a few questions and comments.

  • If you order the motors (part 23) through Amazon then you can get them from the same supplier (Superdroid) for half the price as Superdroid's website.

  • The Urethane Drive Rollers come in different "durometers" (or hardness). Is there a specific "durometer" that you recommend for the rollers? I ordered the softest ones.

  • What is part # 46? It is listed on the schematic, but not the part list.

  • Parts 82 and 23 have typos in the supplier name on the Sorted By Supplier list.

  • Are the tubing sizes "inside diameter" or "outside diameter"? I'm working off the assumption that they are "inside diameter".

I didn't find the gear motor on Amazon now.

The Urethane Drive Roller is 35a Durometers.

Part # 46 is shown on Page 8. Thanks for noting the the error. I am not using it yet, WIP.

Parts 82 & 23 are not the only typo errors.

Probably "inside diameter", not knowing what part you are referring to.

I have made three additional nozzle assemblies each for different colors. In place of Part #14 I used a 1/2" pipe floor flange thus eliminating the welding.

The pipe floor flange is a really good idea.

It is not the same motor. The mfg # is different and it is 190 RPM, not 13 RPM.

Ah ok. Thanks for explaining the difference. I imagine that a lower RPM motor has higher torque, which would make sense.

Regarding part # 71, I think that a "mending brace" from a hardware store might do the same thing if you don't want to machine it. I found this part, which is not the exact size, but which I think might work:

You are correct, what works, works. The same for all other parts.

What is the latex tubing, part # 69, for? It is on the part list, but I couldn't find it on the schematic.
I looked at pipe floor flanges. It would be an ideal replacement for parts 14 and 17. However I couldn't find one online which is in the correct size. I think that the difficulty is that the part of the machine near the gear motor is in millimeters, but other parts are in inches.

Latex part #69 is on page 23 in the manual. See the video of how it works. You will need a smaller rubber tube to reduce the ID to fit the motor shaft.

I have made 3 additional hot ends with auger to switch colors and used the 1/2" pipe flange, available from Zoro Tools #G1596061 for $2.09. You will need to drill holes in it to match the Hopper Motor Base holes.

Another change I have made is I changed Part #18 from insulation board to 1/2" oak wood block.

Thanks. I see where part # 69 is now.

I was looking at the part in the following link as a 1/2" pipe floor flange to potentially replace part #'s 14 and 17. The bolt holes in the corners are 1.75" apart. However your earlier extruder design shows those holes as 1.25" apart. Does this mean that you also designed a new version of part # 19, Motor Hopper Base?

(If part 18 was change to wood and made larger, then I suppose that part 18 could be screwed into the 1.25" holes in the Motor Hopper Base and part 14-17 could screw into new 1.75" holes made in part 18.)

Thanks again for sharing this design with us!

Hi, Do you have instructions for 240 Voltages power? Thanks in advance!

No, try a transformer.

="thingiverse-de4e9322b5e7792a8e72e8ed41d483a5:disqus" href="http://disqus.com/thingiverse-de4e9322b5e7792a8e72e8ed41d483a5/hlyman

For your design you call for 24V geared motors with encoders with a very high torque ratio. Is it possible to use a smaller motor for this system. The ones suggested are sold out. I was looking at motors with similar features but the price jumps significantly. Would a 12V motor work along as you have a voltage regulator of course? I really enjoy this design and the specs behind it, just fairly new to the idea of building an extruder.

Thanks in advance!

I would think a 12V motor will work OK if it has 30 Kgf-cm rating or better. I run my extruder motor wide open to get 30 to 40 inches per minute. The puller motor does not have to be a strong, but they both have to tuned through the Kangaroo.
I have contacted the motor supplier to see when they will be available as I am making three more extruders, one for each color and wish to buy three more motors. When I hear back from supplier I will post a note here.

The V3 extruder is now running and after extruding 500 feet of filament in 2 1/2 hours I took readings of the filament diameter.
It is using the third nozzle of four I have made with the end of the auger bit 1/4" from the inlet to the brass nozzle. The brass nozzle is a hollow core, so the 2.69mm (#37 drill bit) nozzle hole is only about 3mm long.

Uploaded is a PDF file of the reading for those who are interested.
Extruding rate at 40" per minute.


I just uploaded a pdf file of revisions I have made.

  1. Revised wiring diagram, showing pullup boards, external M2 pot and filament cooling fan.

  2. Photo showing of the fan I added.
    Added are:
  3. Fan located 1/4" from the nozzle ahead of the water cooling.
  4. External 10 turn precision pot to control the puller M2 motor.
  5. Fan to cool the M1 motor, (not shown in wiring diagram).

I have completed extruding ten plus spools of filament and have use three for printing parts for my padding press.
Further I have made one extra hot end core and am now making two more, each for different colors.
In timing the extrusion rate I have found that It varies. It has varied from 24" to 48" per minute from one day to next. This I don't understand yet, it may be room (shop) temp, humidity, filament color or ?.

If I don't answer your comment questions it is because it is in the manual or available on the suppliers website.

What is the space between the nozzle and tip of the auger.

Great design, very excited to build this. I'm having a problem locating the TD-044-013 from SuperDroll Robotics as they are out of stock currently. I have been attempting to source from different vendors with no luck. Can you please reply with high level performance requirements so we can figure out a substitution to try?

Hi, I was wondering whether powder would be better than plastic pellets? What do you think? Thanks in advance Tim

Question.... what is the scale factor for the parts to convert them to metric? 25,4? thnx.

Thanks! I was looking forward for a spooling system like this! Although i was making progress with V2 and i was making the filament already curved to spiral, i couldn't find a way to wind it to a spool at the same time.Anyway, time to go to the bench!

Unfortunatelly I can't find the geared motor specifications - RPM, rated current, torque. It is 24 v. I couldn't find info based on the part number in BoM. Help is appreciated :)

Hi Hugh
I have a few questions for you

Firstly I am a complete novice at electronics but quite curious
1) Why do you have a 24v battery setup (part 88) when you have a 24v power supply (part 86) as per parts list?
2) With regard to the roller using the same geared motor as the extruder, a) Is it's main purpose to help maintain correct filament dia, and b) isn't it's torque rating (30kf-cm) quite high for its purpose?
3) Could you avoid using an encoder for the two geared motors and use a USB connected speed controller board with PID?

Thanks in advance with your great effort, I want to make one myself but first I'm trying to understand both what and why you used the equipment you did to make your extruder V3


  1. The battery is required for the micro processor.
  2. You can use any gear motor as long as it has the same rpm and an encoder for the puller rollers. it does run slower than the extruder motor. I am adding a separate pot to the kangaroo with 10 turns for finer control.

  3. I don't know, you are probably better at electronics than I. Try it and let us know how it works.
    Good questions, thanks.

Hi Hugh
Thanks for the quick reply
I am pleased you said "probably better" because I am definitely not! but if I get to be half as good as you, i'll be quite happy
I'm going to try a PID driven speed controller instead of an encoder and see where I end up
Looked at your BOM and it helps greatly, so thanks again for your generous spirit

Hi again, whilst waiting for the hopper to print out, I was watching the Strudittle video. I am wondering why that extruder and the ExtruderBot use such a small opening for the hopper for the pellets to flow through. Looks like about 1/3 the length of your V3 extruder. What are you thoughts on this issue, as I am sure you must have thought about this? Thanks.

There are a lot smarter folks out there than I am. I like what others are doing to make a great machine. It will most likely be better them mine.

Greetings Lyman, Thanks a million for your time and effort on this project! I have just started printing the Hopper-motor-base. I have a couple of questions about flow rate: It looks like you can extrude 3ft/min, right? What are the limiting factors? Motor Torque, Auger efficiency, or heating speed, ie: heater can't heat fast enough to keep up? I suppose it is a combination of those factors. Do you think you could double that extrusion speed with a higher torque motor, and more heating elements? Thank you again!

I am not sure about the flow rate etc. as I only design it, make and tinker with it. Right now I am now I am only extruding at 24" per minute and am still working on a better tolerance. It is still a work in progress. You can build a machine with all the variables you mentioned.

Lyman i have a few questions 1- de temp set is 180 degres for abs??
2 - with this extrusor can mix colors? like red and white to get pink
3 - and the tolerance of the filament extruded ?

This is still a work in progress!!

  1. I have been trying temps from 175 to 215 C.
  2. Yes
  3. Tolerance is not yet what I want.
    I will post future improvements as I keep tinkering.

dear lyman
i made version 2 and use for 3mm filament.
but i have 2 problem.
if you can, please help me.

  1. speed of extrude is very low (3" per min)
  2. when ABS filament go out from nozzle then after 1 min, filament bend.
    i very try but don't success solve 2 problem.

Not sure what your problems are.
It may be your nozzle is not heating correctly.
It may be your thermocouple is faulty.
Or the wrong kind of pellets.

Try different temp settings. You should be able stretch the filament as it exit the nozzle down to a thin diameter.

very tanks for design
What parameter Causes to version3 increase speed of extrude?

Motor, temp, nozzle orifice diamenter.

i mean only parameter that effect on speed of extrude.

motor: increase RPM from (2RPM to 15RPM).?
temp: But i think high temp increase speed of extrude.
length of auger bit don't effect on speed?

Motor, Temp, Nozzle orifice diameter.

Motor speed controlled by two pots on the micro processor and the manual pot which adjusts the speed of both motors. Study the wiring diagram, Page 39 in the manual, drawing # P14, last page.
Temp controlled by PID
Nozzle orifice controlled by drill bit.
I have always thought that if you increase the RPM on a motor is goes faster. Thus increasing the speed of the motor increases the speed of the auger, wherein, more plastics is going to come out of the nozzle faster.
Increase the temp and plastic becomes thinner and exits the nozzle faster under the same pressure.
Increase the nozzle orifice and at the same pressure the filament comes out faster.

Motor, Temp, Nozzle orifice diameter. ( and I am not a physics' teacher)

Excellent design; much advancement over the first iteration! For any of those who don't want to go through the assembly themselves, I'm launching a Kickstarter which was inspired by the Lyman Filament Extruder. It's called the STRUdittle, is has a very small footprint (~6.4" x 9.4" x 8") and the first 5 will sell for $275:)... Autospooler as a separate unit will be available too. Launches tonight ~12am! I'll post the link on here then.

Nice work.
I plan to buy one after you have delivered the first 5. Let me know what you plan to sell the whole system for.

What is the distance between the end of the screw and the beginning of the nozzle. thks

I am trying different distances, right now it is 1/4" from the nozzle.

What is the distance between the end of the screw and the beginning of the nozzle in version 2 ?

In version 2 the end of the auger from the inlet of the nozzle is 1.5".

Congratulations again for this new project!

Quick question: how do you adjust the speed of the spooler, as more time passes and the diameter of the wire at the spooler therefore increases the tension on the wire changes.

thank you

The motor runs fast and the latex tube on the motor shaft slips on the outer edge of the spool keeping a constant pressure on the filament only winding it on the spool as it leaves the pull rollers. Thus, as the diameter of the filament on the spool increases so does the slippage. Watch the video

Hi Mr. Lyman, great job, could you tell me how much does it produces per minute or hour?

Page 3 in the manual. 24" to 30" per minute

Thanks Mr. Lyman, now I'll have to try sourcing the parts to Mexico.
Best Regards!

Do you think I could use this setup to extrude PCL filaments from PCL granules?
Also, do you think the quality of the fibers would still be considered medical grade after running through the extruder?

Definitely not, considering there are steel and lead based components in contact with the polymer.

I don't know, never tried PCL, but I would think so. I don't know anything about medical grade stuff.

Nice, I hope this would make everyone happy now :)

Any thoughts on adding a pc heatsink with fan to the water box to help with the water cooling?

No need to, as the filament is dry and solid before it enters the puller assembly. It never gets over 90 degrees F and 110 is ok.

You can improve the water cooling by using this thing... http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:146105http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

Lyman Filament Extruder Water Cooling alternative
by mronchi

I plan on trying it.

I was working on designing my own filament extruded and had considered using water for a rapid cooling.
Any concerns with the filament absorbing water?

I detect no problem with water absorbing. The filament is dry and hard before it enters the puller rollers.

They need to feature this one. Once again, nice work!

They need to feature this one. Once again, nice work!

I just fried the 12V spool winder motor as I in error turned up the pot. So I have omitted the Pot and set the voltage with the voltage regulator to control the speed. Once set at a good speed it should not have to adjusted again. Also I forgot to show it in the pictures but it is shown in the wiring diagram.

This looks like a compact version of the industrial extruders out there with the cool tray , take up wheel and winder steps. How are you managing speed at the take up reel without putting stress on the filament as it exits the hot end? Is it necessary? My understanding is thats why the water tray is so large on the industrial versions but I could be wrong.

The water tray on pro extruders needs to be 10+ ft long because extrusion speed is much higher. You can't drop the average temperature of the polymer much in a 4" water bath when it is moving at 50feet/min.

You should find the answer by reading the manual on LYMAN FILAMENT WINDUP SPOOL. The drive shaft turns faster than the spool so it slips on the edge of the spool keeping a constant pressure so it can only wind the filament as it exits the puller rollers. There is no stress on the filament as the puller roller maintains a constant speed and grip the filament tightly. Have you read the manual? I may need to add to the manual. But you are right, it is a compact version of an industrial extruder. Thanks for your comment.

Thanks for replying back. I haven been watching your work for awhile now and I have been really impressed. I've been using some of you parts to build a diameter logging device like your motor mounts and your recommendations for speed controllers. I was wondering if you saw a problem between the hot end and the water tank? I've always assumed that the filament coming out of the hotend varies in speed and if the drive shaft before the spooler was set to fast it would pull the filament and thin it out. Even if you got the motor in perfect sync if the filament speeds up or down slightly it seems like it would end up stretching or binding before the water tank. This is only a guess by me so I'm just curious if you have seen that as a problem or if it's all in my head? I noticed you are now working on a resizing dye and that might be what solves the problem I'm referring too. I've also been following this project and their way of handling the speed problem is with photosensors. http://www.soliforum.com/topic/2038/filament-winder/http://www.soliforum.com/topic...

You are right, the filament varies in thickness as it exits the nozzle. As the motors are in sync, M2 follows M1 this leads me to the fact that the pressure inside the nozzle is not constant. In Versions 1 & 2 I had the auger bit end about 1.5" from the brass nozzle, wherein in this one I have it between 1/4" to 1/2". I will revise this today to see if that improves the tolerance. Also, I find that the distance the water jet is from nozzle can affect the tolerance. Yesterday I extruded 500 feet with the jet at 4" from the nozzle and this improved the tolerance. Further I am changing the M2 motor pot on the Kangaroo from the mini on board one to a precision external 10 turn pot, for more accurate adjustment of M2 motor. I have tried the resizing die and have not yet got it to work. Thanks for your comments.