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Tevo Tarantula Brackets

by thingirob, published

Tevo Tarantula Brackets by thingirob Apr 1, 2016
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Summary

Just some brackets to firm up the little spider =)

Will need 1 of each, and 2 of the Y_Base.

I didn't add any tolerance in the drawing so it may be a tight fit depending on printer setup.
There is a gauge to check fit and make adjustments to your printer or scale before printing the larger pieces.

These are stout enough that you can leave a 5mm gap on the ends of the 2 short 2040 on the base and a 20 mm gap on the upper z mount corner to give you 20mm more x travel. This is nice if you have a wider x carriage. Can also easily raise the Z legs 20mm, but not needed to get the full 200mm z.

Make sure your printer is square when you print these. I set them up to lock it down and if your printer is out of whack, they and your printer will be after installing.

I run this adjustable z stop. Use the short version with the these brackets.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1439423

These things are a major pita to install with the stock style tnuts. Search ebay/ali/whatever for something like "Roll In T-Nut with Ball Spring- M4 For aluminum extrusion 2020". These type of nuts are super sweet and make the job sooo much easier. Easier maint down the road also. It can be done with the normal ones, but you really want this type. You will want to grab about 100 of them.

Lol! I just figured out where that random dollar or two in my paypal is coming from.
Had me scratching my head for a little while. Thought somebody signed me up for some chain letter pyramid scheme or something =D
For you guys that leave tips, thank you! That is awesome, and much appreciated! Kinda gives me the warm fuzzies to know I can help out people all over the world =)

Update 5/1/16
Added a gimbal z nut mount to allow the nut to remain coaxial with a non straight z screw.
This is Z_Nut_Mount and Z_Nut_Inner. You will need to fabricate the pins that it rotates on. Holes are 3.2mm, but I used 2.5mm so a bit of a range here as long as they are snug but still rotate easily. They need to be ~10mm long and some custom fitting is prob going to be needed.

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What do you have connected under the circuit board. Is that another bracket or a stubby piece?

I think you are talking about the spacer I was using to prop it up before I drew the base for that side.
It was called "plate" iirc and was just a quicky thing to level the printer as I was going.

Oh ok. I was curious because it seems like when you add the bracket on the circuit board side there may not be enough room for the board anymore.

I see now. Yes, the board needs to be above the bracket. Lots of ways around that though if you want.

I like it higher for access to the wires.

First layer on Center Base gets lines between each layout, and it happens each time while it doesnt happen with any other print i do :(

That is no doubt a printer/slicer thing

Hello, I don't know what to do with the Nut Mount and the Nut Inner :( If someone could help me it will be very nice! Thanks

Its the yellow 3rd pic from left above. You need to make the red pieces yourself.
Some kind of metal dowel is best, but some use screws.

Actually, this one is prob a better one to play with https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2480577

Tevo Tarantula EZGimbal

Should I scale the z rod bracket thing up aswell???

Hi, I made a remix of the base right bracket so is bottomless. You can get it here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2599129

TEVO bracket for base right Z: no bottom

is this the actual measure of the product or should it be resized?

It is drawn without any tolerance.
You can print the thing called "Gage" at a few different scales and test fit.
I just printed it and put it on, kind of a tight fit. I hear 101-102% has worked well for others.

I am brand new in this world and I always ask before I do some damage ahahah.

so I mold the model without touching the measurements?

Thanks for that thingirob! :D

Can you put more pictures of where each part goes? I can't understand where the Y base goes. As well as other parts. Few of them. Thanks

Check the "made" section of this thing.
There are a lot of pictures there that show which bracket belong where.
Link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1457449/#made
(use copy paste, hyperlink does not work)

Tevo Tarantula Brackets

I don't understand how the gimbal works. I have printed it in hopes that after printing I will understand what is going on but I still don't get it. Please help.

What it does is really simple. Typing it is a bit more difficult.
It basically lets the nut stay flat on the threads of the rod.

idk why mine are coming out so tight when i have calibrated everything to .1 accuracy. is it just me?

Hard to say. Might just be a different amount of shrinkage due to a different size calibration part?

Hey Thingirob, Could you adjust the z motor bracket for the 2020 side (Dual Z) Thats the last thing this beast of a set up needs is a bracket for dual z set ups!

There should be some remixes on here that have them on the ends, instead of inset like mine.

These are great, just got them installed and mounted. This thing is rock solid now!

Just a tip for anyone attempting to install these brackets with the original t nuts, I have an easier method IMO if you must reuse them. Tighten the t nut's against the back of the brackets in the position needed to fit into the slot, hold bracket in place and one by one loosen the t nut all the way so they slide into the extrusion then retighten. I found this a little easier to keep multiple t nut's aligned at the same time.

Nice.
The sprig ball roll in ones make it even easier.

You don't fill every hole in your brackets with bolts do you? Just curious because it seems like a bit overkill ;) but I like too much over too little haha

No, lol. I use about 6 in each. Part of the fun is figuring out how few you can use, and which holes do the most.
2 bolts in the right places would be stiffer than the stock setup.

I have seen people fill them all though. Had to have been a nightmare to get together.

I agree and I need to get some lol because either way the original ones are a pita even with my trick, just makes it a tiny bit easier but you can only do it for certain holes.

Comments deleted.

Does it make sense to print these with ABS rather than PLA?
(In case you're printing on a hot day or in an enclosure, or...)

ABS would def be a good idea for higher temp use.
Ive been using my PLA ones for over a year and they havent sagged or anything, but I dont use an enclosure.

Hey, about the z brackets how much z height does it take away?

Doesnt take anything away on mine. Its kinda close, but gets the full 200mm.
The brackets are stout enough that you can actually slide them up and gain a bit in all directions.

Just wanted to say thank you. I've printed a bunch of these parts for my "Atomic spider" Tarantula build. All worked great and fit the 2020/2040 rail that came with my kit.

I'll post some pics of the build once I've got the "bug" assembled.

Atomic spider?? Don't blame me if you start shooting webs out of your wrists and swinging from buildings =D

Would love to see pics!

What's is Guage for?

You print it out 1st to see if you need to scale the parts to fit nicer.

It is small so can easily print a few up at different scales and check fit. I see many print at 101 or 102%.

Thanks for informative explanation!

Now I have a problem with my drag chain.

https://i.imgur.com/B2pkIvV.jpg

It would be cool, if you could make a z motor mount with the motor straight at the end as with the original design from tevo.

Having the z all the way at the end is a bad idea.
You want it close to the middle of the x axis to balance it, instead of levering it from one end.

There are a few remixes out that do what you want though. look at the ones for dual z.
Dont need to be balanced when there is one at each end.

Comments deleted.

This is a really cool design. I have only problems with the z-motor mounts. The motor is not mounted at the end of the x-axis which results in a smaller build area with my dual extruder. Somebpdy else had this problem?

It shouldnt, but I have not seen a dual.
You dont have your z-nut mount on top of the x 2040 do you?

You are right. I mounted the z-nut the wrong way. Thank you very much, everything is ok now.

I use the original z-nut mount like it is described in the manual chapter 9:
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1580/0101/files/Tevo-Tarantula-Assembly-Guide-V2.0.pdf

And here is the dual extruder.

https://imgur.com/gallery/VWMW3

Woah!! I cant believe they say to put it together like that.
Whoever drew up the instructions has obviously never put a tevo together, lol!

Thanks, this is awesome. I have yet to print the "X" carriage stiffener but have printed everything else. I have printed the flat plate and bridge looking thing but have no idea what they are used for.

The flat plate was just a spacer I used to set the right side on before I drew the r base.
The bridge thing? The little "C" shaped thing? That is a gauge that is quick to print and test fit before you print the bigger pieces.

Awesome, I just printed out everything except the X axis stiffener. I did end up getting a remix of the right lower brace with one with the z rod bearing. Awesome stuff bro. Screwed everything down and I am happy with the rigidness.

I leave the lower end of the z screw free.
Constraining it has 1 pro, but a few cons.

Hey rob. Quick question. Love the look of these brackets and and currently getting together all the parts needed to be able to install. Are there any parts from the required hardware in the pdf that are being reused from the ones that came with the TT or should I just buy everything on the list.

Thanks

You really want the roll in ball and spring style tnuts. These you will want to order online.

You will reuse the hardware on the tevo. Should be plenty to get you up and running, but you can get anything else you need locally.

How long does the M4 bolts need to be for this?

Same as the ones it comes with

Do you need M4 or M5 T-nuts and bolts to fasten these brackets to the aluminium extrusion?

Comments deleted.

I think m4 for the brackets. I think the wheels are the only m5 on there.

This is a major pita with the stock style nuts. If you can get some like these, they are waaayyy nicer to deal with.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Roll-In-T-Nut-with-Ball-Spring-M4-For-aluminum-extrusion-Pack-of-20-pieces-/380734335297?hash=item58a588e941:g:UQ8AAOSwVFlT6vqE

Shop around and you can find them for pretty cheap. Prob gonna want ~100pcs.

Aliexpress search:
https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&SearchText=Roll+In+nut+m4+2020

About US$6 for 100.

You're right, those drop in T-nuts are killing me! Trying to fit my brackets, wish I had the roll-ins to hand :(

Thanks for the reply! These are great designs by the way. I am definitely going to use them.

No prob!
These are just something I could see the Tevo needed and seemed like a great project to learn how to use the cad software.

Figured Id thow them up for others to play with, but really amazes my how many people use them, or derivatives of them.

Hi Rob,

Do you have any other parts installed on the X axis besides the X pulley stiffener?

Just the stuff in this bracket set, x car, and adj z stop.
Just click my name and it should show all the stuff I have drawn for the tevo.

I just started playing with fans and added one of the LPA ducts. Works great and was easy to print.

Oh... besides, where do I get the Z endstop calibration mounting like in the first picture ???
Thanks again...!!!

Hi Rob... finished the printing, everything ok... now the assembly must begin...
I must disassembly all the frame for mounting the brackets or there are a more easy solution ???...:-)
Thanks..!!!

Ya, it is better to tear it down. just make sure everything is nice and square when you put it back together. This is pretty tough to get nailed down perfect, but is very much worth the extra time and effort.

The nuts can be a pita and this type is much easier to use. Id say get about 100 of them because once you use them, you will throw all the others away. They are awesome!
https://www.amazon.com/10pcs-Slide-Ball-Spring-13-6mmx8-5mmx4-3mm/dp/B00XXGQITU

The adjustable z stop is this one. You want to use the short version if using the brackets.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1439423

Tevo Tarantula Adjustable Z End Stop

Hi Rob...!

Well, finally I was convinced I must disassemble the frame, so I did it... As you say, the nuts are a PITA, geez...!!!
And yes, finally I discovered you had a "short version" and printed that.
Now everything is in place and the printer is working...!!!
Thanks for your awesome work...!!!

Never saw that kind of nuts... I gonna try to get some of them...!!!

Kind regards...!
Javier.

Look around ant you can find them for pretty cheap, but I will warn you, they are so much easier to use that you will want to throw the others away and replace them all. I think I got 50 at 1st and burned right through them. Had to order another 50.

Yup... seems to be very practical... but just for slide-in, not for mounting "frontally"....

I found them very cheap in Aliexpress, 10 for 1 dollar... ;-)

Kind regards...!!! :-)

You can drop in and remove them from the front.

A small allen wrench in the threaded hole gives you a lever to rock them in or out.
Just compressing the ball as they pop in, but prob difficult if you just use
your fingers.

They are soo much easier to use in every way but 1.
The one and only drawback to them is the extra length needed for the ball. If holes are close together you have to pay attention to which way you put them in. At that point the holes are prob too close together anyway, but you gotta do what you gotta do on some models.

Oh... I can imagine now...with a little side tilting to enter or remove... fantastic...!!!

Doing the order for them right now... :-D

Has anyone else had trouble with the z-axis motor mount flexing downward, just like the original acrylic piece does? Or is this like most thing where it's just me? I was adjusting the position of an oldham connector and I noticed that the rod touched the back edge at the bottom, but if I brought the gantry up to the top, the rod was centered like it should be. Even though the bed is level (bubble level) as is the left bracket and the rest of the frame, if I put the level on the motor, it's so far off it's unbelievable! I can flex the bracket up to level it, though which brings the rod out to the center of the oldham at the bottom of it's travel. I hope that makes sense.

I installed all of the brackets tonight and now the unlevelness of my table is even more obvious than ever! I guess I need to get a different piece of wood to mount this... MDF I guess...

That bracket should be plenty stout for whatever you hang off it, within reason.

I cant think of any reason an oldham would do that with a standard setup.
You have a rigid coupler or one of the 1pc motor/screw combos?

My coupler is the one that came with the printer - the springy metal one. Other than your brackets (the rest of which I love, by the way) and the oldham coupler downloaded form the fb group, everything else is stock so far.

Man, that is weird.

The only other way I could think of that happening is if you have the free end of the screw constrained and misaligned, but you dont from what you are describing.

If it is centered at the top. there isnt really anything that could throw it off at the bottom. The springy coupler should allow the screw to deflect to where it needs to before it overcomes the friction of the oldham and drives it to one side or another.

If you have some sort of support for the lower end, that will hold the screw in the same place and force the oldham to make up for any misalignment.

Yeah, I don't know either, unless the print just wasn't fused together solid enough? This was one of my first attempts at 3d printing and I am still tuning the machine and getting the hang of all this.

I found another z-mount on here that looks just like yours but with a larger/longer angled support that I printed last night. I'm going to try that, but I may need to print something to act as a lower guide for that rod, too.

Hey I have just started printing up this set, the design is genius and printing 101% fits great in pla! I am just wondering if the front and back y axis will be up in the air a few mm because the z and center base is no longer touching the workbench? thanks.

They will, you need 2 ybase to use as feet.

nice okay so its keeping the acrylic pulley brackets with the stiffeners. That makes sense. hey what is the plate for?

Yup. I had started on the y brackets, but somebody beat me to it with a very nice set so I put them on the back burner.
Maybe if I get bored some day I will see if I can pick up where I left off just to complete the set.

The stiffeners are for the x pulleys on the left side. Those pulleys are mounted only to a single plate and prone to flexing.
These will stiffen the acrylic there, and you mirror it for the backside to support that end of the bolts for the pulleys.

The y pulleys already have a plate on both sides and are easy enough to slide and adjust the belt so I didnt feel they really needed any help.
The motor is on a single plate so that end would prob benefit from a bracket on the other side to support the free end of the bolts.

Plate was me being lazy =) The R z mount was the last part I drew so was using plate as a spacer on that side so it would sit flat.
I should pull it out now because it does seem to cause some confusion whether it is needed, or wtf to do with it.

Just printed the center bracket. Fits like a glove! Now starting on the others

Awesome work Rob.

THANKS!

I guess I can go ahead and post I made it :) Well no I'll wait for the pictures!!

Sweet! Hope they work out well for you =)

Hello,

I can't printing Center base, I've problem when it at the middle of screw holes, the printing starting to shift. I've try printing 2 times with a different filament and same problem. An issue with Simplify 3D maybe and the file ?

At left it's second try and with support, at right it's the first try printed without support: http://imgur.com/a/M3R9i

I've printed Left and Right brackets remixe from http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1890684 without any issues.

thanks

Tevo Bracket with lead screw bearing holder + adjustable z end-stop
by Mr_Fonk

I don't know why but I've printed center base from http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1458534 without any issues with simplify3D

Tevo Tarantula mounting plates

Ya, sometimes the best thing is to just try a different slicer. I think I printed some in Cura, and others in Slic3r. They just get funny sometimes.

I did a boo-boo. I've been printing for weeks with the brackets attached but most were left without T-nuts, just sort of loosely fitting on there because I didn't get around to fixing it all yet.

So tonight I added nuts all around and the printer seems more stable and looks square but the first thing I printed looks like it's rotated by a few degrees now. I checked my slicer to be sure and it shows it dead center without rotation. So somehow I think overtightening these caused my printer to get wacky. Any ideas of where to start on fixing this?

Thanks

@Camaraderie, I'm in the process of printing these (mixed with a couple modifications that were remixed from this set) now, so I haven't mounted them on my printer yet. So take this with a grain of salt. But if your print's rotated, your x and y axes are no longer perpindicular. I'd take a very close look at your center mount, as no other piece has so much influence on the perpindicularity of those two.

If you have a precise square, you can use that to check the x and y rails. If you don't have one, you can measure the distance from the front left corner of the x-axis rail to the left corner of the front of the y-axis rail. Then the distance from the front right corner of the y-axis rail to the right corner of the front of the y-axis rail. I hope that makes more sense reading than it did typing. If the rails are perpindicular, they should be equal lengths.

If not (and they can't be if your prints are rotated), then something's twisting the rails off axis. Remove all the screws to loosen things up and adjust until everything is back to square. Draw pencil lines on your table/base plate/whatever along each side of every rail so you can see at a glance when they go out of square. Tighten up each bracket one at a time, starting with the center bracket, checking the squareness with each screw. Should be pretty easy to see when it loses square, and there's your problem part.

Comments deleted.

Could i get the file for the z mount, in order to change it for the other side (dual z upgrade)?

Hi,

What did you use to mount the circular z-nut mounter and inner?
I mean just these two pieces together, not the v-slot mount.
Is M3x3 or M3x4 is ok?
Or something else?

Thanks for the work,
Sinan

What material are you guys using to print these?

ESUN black PLA 220 degress 85% infill.

I printed on Esun ABS

Any chance you could share your design files. I am wanting to create a bracket to mount the Z-axis motor on the centre of the cross beam and I want to make sure that the design looks the same as yours as they look so nice.

I have created a new vertical x-carriage so will be able to move the gimbal set across to the centre without any modifications. Which by the way is awesome, I will never have a bed crash again. For anyone looking for a pin solution for the brass nut gimbal, I used M3 8mm Grub Screws and they work perfectly.

That's a good idea, I should prob put those up for peeps. I'll put some step files or something up when I get some free time.

I printed the gimball and grinded down some screws for the pins. Did my printer mess up? If this travels towards the bed, wouldn't it pop out of it's holder?

If you crash it into the bed it will come apart so you muck something else up. Also easy to disassemble for cleaning.
Shouldnt be a problem otherwise, I havent had any problems in the last few months anyway.

hi rob,
i printed the center y and both z's and they came out abit narrow (the alloy don't fit in width).
how can i print them with correct scale? do i need to scale on the slicer (cura/matter control) ?
thanks
mor

The thing in there called "Gauge" is what you want to try scaling and print to check fit.
I made them exact so fit depends highly on printer setup.
I hear many say scaling (with your slicer) to 1.01 or 1.02 (101% or 102%) works well.
Can also warm them with a heat gun or hair drier to soften them a bit when fitting.

Could you post a picture of how the x pulley stiffener is supposed to fit? I might be dumb, but I can't picture at all how this fits on the printer or what it does.

It just bolts to the acrylic piece on the left side with the existing 4 screws.
You can also mirror it and put it on the backside of the 2040 there to capture the free ends of the bolts that hold the pulleys. This is actually better, but having it on the front gives it some color.

Ill see if I can find a pic of them to add if you want check the photos.

Ooooh! It's to stiffen up the acrylic. I thought it was for the belt and was massively confused. That's a good idea, mine totally snapped before and had to print a replacement.

I wouldn't have noticed it's orientation unless you'd pointed it out to me. I'm a tad lazy and going shopping to find the rods would be a challenge. The closest thing I could find were nails about 3mm in diameter and I did start cutting them to size with my angle grinder but thought the bolts were a better alternative.As it's the nature of 3D printing I will have a go at making something similar.

Thanks for the great work.

Comments deleted.

I thought the gimballed Z axis nut was very nice so I printed one. Making the pins was a bit of a pain but it looked like I could use some spare 3mm hex bolts. Not perfect. I'll need to grind off one of the head of one of the nuts doesn't touch the x axis belt.

Did your Z-Axis motor mount as well, will do the whole set eventually.

Could you modify it so I can use 5mm long 3mm hex nuts..Here's what it looks like with the nuts just glued in place.
I'd do it myself but I'm just learning the thingverse system. The battery on my caliper just died otherwise I'd measure it exactly.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/tuurp0web676z26/DSC_0043.JPG?dl=0

You want to use some metal dowel or tubing for the pins. Something smooth anyway.
It shouldnt be anywhere near the belt. Look at the pics of how I installed it.

What infill do you use when printing these?

Something like 3-4 shell and 20-30% infill should be fine.

Is it possible to make one for a left Z axis motor?

I have one drawn up if you want to test it. Shoot me your email.

What fasteners should we use to attach/fasten these?

M4 10mm is what I used. The tnuts that have the spring and ball in them will make them much easier to install also. They will stay where you put them so dont have to try and slide the brackets on with the nuts and bolts in it.

Thanks. And, what is the part called "Plate" for? Where does it go?

Early on the r_z_base that was in here was pretty much just a mirror of the other side and had no provision for an adjustable endstop. I left the right side off so I could still use the adj endstop and used the plate as a spacer under that side so it would sit level.

I'm not seeing how the R_Z Base accommodates the endstop mount. Was i supposed to bolt the endstop to the Base?

Ya, the shorter version of the lower endstop goes in the slotted holes on the back of the right base.
If you have an older version of the base you can just cut/file the slot so you dont have to print another.

Tevo Tarantula Adjustable Z End Stop

Yup, thats it =)

Comments deleted.

I really dig these brackets. Would you mind posting a couple pictures of your Tarantula with the brackets? It would help me a lot. Thanks in advance, and thanks for making and posting these designs.

I havent installed them yet, just poked on it right now for fitting. They were setup to be strong and are going to be a pain to install. Waiting for some other parts before I do the big teardown. I also have more work in store for the R_Z_Base. The current one works, but is just a place holder.

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