Raspberry Pi B+ HifiBerry DAC+ Pro enclosure

by PrintMo, published

Raspberry Pi B+ HifiBerry DAC+ Pro enclosure by PrintMo Apr 10, 2016

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UPDATE: WiFi only version available print SqueezePiHiFiBerryCase_Outer_WifiOnly.stl and SqueezePiHiFiBerryCase_Outer_WifiOnly.stl instead

This is an enclosure for a Raspberry B+, Wifi dongle and a HifiBerry DAC+ hat.

You have to unsolder the connectors from the HifiBerry DAC+ PCB or remove the contacts and case of the connectors carefully (warranty will be void anyways!). I goofed up with soldering (lead free and impatience is a nono) so I had to fix the tracks with bodge wire.

Bill of materials

  • Raspberry Pi B+
  • Hifiberry DAC+ series (Pro, Headphone or standard)
  • EDIMAX EW-7811UN WiFi dongle
  • MicroSD card 4 GB with piCorePlayer version 1.19l burned image (pretty old but it was the only image working correctly with the EDIMAX dongle) in case you want to use the device in a Logitech Squeezebox environment
  • Network cable for first setup
  • 5V 2A power supply and suitable panel mount socket, designed for EDC 12 R (search for: edc 21 r 11638)
  • Rean (Neutrik) RCA connectors red and white: http://www.rean-connectors.com/en/products/phono/phono-jacks/nys367
  • “Audio grade” wire (at least 2 twisted pairs + shield)
  • Wire 2 x 0,5 mm² (2x AWG 20)
  • 2x DIN EN ISO 4762 - M3 x 10 screws
  • 2x DIN EN ISO 4032 - M3 nuts
  • 4x DIN EN ISO 1207 M2,5 x 20 screws
  • 4x DIN EN ISO 4032 - M2,5 nuts
  • 4x DIN EN ISO 7049 - ST2,9 x 19 screws
  • 4x DIN EN ISO 7049 - ST2,9 x 9,5 screws
  • 3D printed parts (see Thing Files) 4x SqueezePiHiFiBerryCase_PCBStands.prt.stl
  • A thin shaft (<4 mm) screw driver for slotted screws


See pictures above!

piCorePlayer 1.19l Setup

  • Refer to https://sites.google.com/site/picoreplayer/home for basic installation and web-browser based setup
  • After web-browser based setup is finished SSH into the device to disable the web based GUI (user: "tc", password "piCore") -> type in "Webgui disable" command to disable the web based GUI (or "Webgui enable" to enable the GUI)
  • I have not yet figured out how to change the default password, if anyone knows how to do it let me know!

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First off, excellent work and this looks amazing.

I was hoping you could provide more information on how you moved the RCA connectors and where the soldering points on the bottom side of the HiFiBerry looked like. Based on what I can see on pictures, was it just a single wire per channel that you connected on the edge of the card labeled as L and R? No ground needed? Also, can you show a picture or share how you connected those cables to the RCA connectors you used?

Sorry, not to familiar with the electronics aspect of this but really like this project and hoping to give this a shot.


Thank you for your comment! You will find 3 solder points on the edge of the HiFiBerry PCB located on the right hand side above the removed RCA connectors labeled "L GND R". These points provide the same signal as the RCA connectors. L means Left channel, R Right channel. GND (the middle point) symbolizes GrouND (ground).

In my case three wires are hooked up. I've used audio twisted pair (two separate isolated wires) with shield by SommerCable Stage 22 Highflex; 2 x 0,22 mm². This type of wire is often sold as “microphone cable”. The shield is hooked up with GND and the paired wires carry the L and R signals.

In case of RCA the outer part of a female connector (like the removed ones) is ground and the center is positive/hot (both left and right signal). If you wire the external RCA connectors up, link the solder joints connected with of the outer part of the connector together and hook them up with GND (ground, shield of “microphone cable”). The center pin of each connectors must be connected either to L or R on the PCB depending on the connector’s color code. R normally uses the color code red (easy to remember RightRed) L is white.

Nice design! which filament did you use? looks awesome :-)

Thank you! I used Innofil3D PLA red and orange 1.75mm.

Hello, would this work with the Pi 2B or Pi 3?

Probably, if both are physical compatible (hole placement on PCB, connector placement and dimensions) with the B+ version. A quick visual check based on pictures showed no major differences. It might work! Using a B2 or v3 is probably overkill if you intend to use it as a squeezebox.


Thanks for this excellent project, love it !

It could be posible to do the same with 2x 18650 batteries pack to get something really portable and rechargeable... then to add a USB_C and mini jack connexions...?

Hi Manito,

Thank you for your appreciation! Because the Squeezebox ecosystem is not really intended to be used portable (on the road, indoors maybe), no sorry, not from me at least.

Technically it is possible that's for sure. You need an additional lithium charge controller handling the charging of the cell and seamless switching between charging/stationary and portable use. You could rip apart an off the shelf power bank (with usb c) and use the cells + charging circuit out of it, f. ex..

Greetings PrintMo

Comments deleted.

An orgy of great photos! Really shows your work in great detail, top stuff!!

Would it be worth doing an additional back (or front?) plate without the LAN port - so it's a totally sealed unit?

Well done!


Thank you for your comment! I've updated the files if you want to print a WiFi only version print SqueezePiHiFiBerryCase_Outer_WifiOnly.stl and SqueezePiHiFiBerryCase_Outer_WifiOnly.stl.

Lovely. I definitely want one! :-)

Thanks for your comment! Do you have a lack of parts or 3D printers?

I have a lack of pretty much everything, including time to put it together! But one by one my Squeezeboxes are dying so I'm going to have to do something soon.

A dying Squeezebox is bad news! It's a shame that Logitech discontinued the Squeezeboxes especially the boom and the radio.

Printing takes most of the time, assembly of the whole system is pretty fast. If you intend to use the same EDIMAX Wifi dongle make sure you use picoreplayer 1.19l. Took me two days to find a working image, was pretty annoying. Good luck with your build!

Very nice ! Did you print the faces with support ?

Yes I did. My printer (pp3dp up plus 2) suffers with raftless prints, wanted to get the best print quality so I had to print both faces facing up. Not very efficient but in this case necessary.