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Mini SNES - Raspberry Pi 2/3 Case

by AndrewBougie, published

Mini SNES - Raspberry Pi 2/3 Case by AndrewBougie Apr 17, 2016
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Summary

License Update
I have been getting many inquiries about using this design commercially. If you want print these and sell them to people, go right ahead! The license is now CC - Attribution, so I just ask that you credit me as the source of the original case design and link to my website andrewbougie.com. Thanks!

Update 05/08/16

I've uploaded a STEP file for easy modification in most CAD software. Have fun remixing!

Description

It's a mini SNES that can do anything the Raspberry Pi 2 or 3 is able to do! Skip to the instructions below if you don't care about the back story.

I have two sons that are getting old enough to take an interest in video games. I had my wife's old SNES in storage so we pulled that out late last year. The boys loved it, but having wires everywhere in true 90's fashion wasn't going to cut it. I made this Mini SNES to run Recalbox with a bluetooth controller so my boys and I can enjoy the games I loved as a kid and not have to deal with the inconvenience of being tethered. It also gives you the advantage of having modern audio and video connections so it will work with most current AV systems.

Credit for the base full-size SNES design goes to RSants over on GrabCAD:
https://grabcad.com/library/snes-console-2 . His model saved me a lot of time that would have been spent measuring and modeling from my original SNES.

If you print this, be sure to share your make here on Thingiverse and tag @andrewbougie on Twitter and Instagram. I love to see what others do with my models!

Instructions

The print instructions are short, but the print may not be the easiest if you don't have your support settings dialed in.

  • Print [1] top and [1] bottom with supports enabled.
  • Print [2] controller connections
  • Print [2] power/reset buttons
  • Print [1] Eject button

The buttons are separate so you can paint or print them in a different color and then glue them to the main case. I use Gorilla Glue super glue gel for ABS and PLA.

Screw everything together with tiny screws. I designed the case to use these:
http://amzn.com/B00GDYNHL6
The board is held in place by 4 of the above screws. The two halves are fastened with only two screws toward the front of the case. Based on the way this case is used, this should be sufficient for most people.

You can see there is some empty space in the front of the case for additional electronics should you want to get fancier with the design and add a power LED to the front or add other (very) small boards for more functionality.

You are done if you have your own plans for this case.

Full Mini SNES Parts List

If you want this to play SNES (or NES, Genesis, Gameboy, etc) games, you'll need RecalBox or a similar emulator OS for the Raspberry Pi. Here is a full list of parts as well as relevant software links. You won't find ROM links here, but this is 2016 after all. Google it.

Hardware

Software

All you need for software is RecalBox. Full instructions here:
http://www.recalbox.com/diyrecalbox

Print Settings

Printer Brand:

Printrbot

Printer:

Printrbot Plus

Rafts:

No

Supports:

Yes

Resolution:

200 microns

Infill:

25%


Notes:

I used 200 microns, but 100 would give you a smoother curve at the top of the case.

I print all my stuff at 25% infilll. This is overkill for many models, so you my be able to get away with less.

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Hi there! I want to print this, but I can only print with PLA. Will this work, or will it be too brittle to support the screws?

The print you see in my images is PLA and it worked well. If you are using the same size screws I listed in the description, you should be fine.

Will this accomodate the fan that you get with raspberry pi 3?

Unfortunately, I'm not sure. I don't remember how much clearance is inside the case.

I been eyeing this print for sometime but haven't had the time to print it. Ive been curious though if anyone has tried to make the power switch actually functional with modifications.

Sep 11, 2017 - Modified Sep 11, 2017
AndrewBougie - in reply to Ace202boyd

Check the remix tab. I believe there are a couple versions with functional button mods.

Hi Andrew,

Do you think it could be possible to add some thread fastener to your model? I just saw this article https://www.3dhubs.com/knowledge-base/how-assemble-3d-printed-parts-threaded-fasteners

It would be the best solution. My funtack solution to hold it off is not great.

I've actually been considering revisiting this design and making it snap together without screw hardware. It has been a while since I first published this.You think that would work?

Snap would be great if it was easy to unsnap. I don't want to destroy the case to get back at my pi.
Are you thinking of this kind of snap (https://www.3dhubs.com/knowledge-base/how-design-snap-fit-joints-3d-printing)

Screws for me is the way to go but I understand it would be an additional cost and maybe the fasteners will be hard to find for anyone.

But if you can design a snap like a pen. Like the one in the link that would be the best possibly.

would you get a reasonable cut of the profits if I ordered this printed from thingiverse? just asking generally as it would be good if good designs get the support they deserve.

I'm not really sure how that works. There is a tip button, but I'm not sure if I get anything from ordering prints. I think it goes through 3DHubs. Honestly, it doesn't matter much to me. Just tag me if you ever get a chance to share pics on social media. Also, be sure to share the finished build here on Thingiverse. Thanks!

I want to make changes to your STEP file, what SCALE did you reduce it to to make the Raspberry Pi fit? When I open the STEP file, the SNES is huuuge. Thanks

The scale was arbitrary. I just adjusted dimensions to fit the board. I thought STEP files held actual unit info, but it should be MM. It has been a while since I exported it.

I ordered this printed and it has yet to come in. I would like to make the original labels to apply to the case as well. What is this scaled to? Thanks.

Unfortunately, I don't know. I scaled it down until it fit the board properly instead of using a specific percentage.

Dec 4, 2016 - Modified Dec 4, 2016

love the design man, cant wait to house my pi in this haha. one question though. Is accurately scaled down? not a huge deal if not but I design, print/cut and sell SNES skins. Im hoping I could just shrink my template down a bit and give my mini a DK skin. Still awesome though and fits perfectly on my Monoprice Mini 3D 120x120 x120 build plate for anyone wondering. you might've mentioned in the description but I didnt see it. How about a mini Genesis or maybe something for a Pi zero :) ?

This is accurately scaled down. Everything should be proportional to the original design and that looked pretty close. There is a link to the source GrabCAD model in the description. A custom skin for this sounds awesome! Would love to see some of your work.

I do have a Pi zero that I haven't done anything with yet. Good ideas for future projects. :)

Nov 28, 2016 - Modified Nov 28, 2016

I love this design, and the bottom printed beautifully. I'm not sure why but I've had a really hard time printing the top of this. I'm using an Original Prusa i3 Mk2 and am using Slic3r. I definitely enabled supports, but once it starts printing on top of the supports it starts peeling away from the support and has an issue on the next pass. I've tried adjusting the distance of the supports and not had any luck after about 5 prints.

Can anyone share the detail of what they did on the supports to get this to print properly?

Edit: The furthest apart I had the support was 2.5mm, the shortest was .75mm but it did something strange. I think right now I'm testing 1 or 1.5mm.

Hey PB,
I'm finding myself in the exact same predicament nearly a year later. Prusa i3 MK2S, Sliced with the newest version of Slic3r. Mine is peeling away from the supports right as it finishes what I'll call the roof of the top half of the case. Its ruined 3 prints regardless of the setting changes. I'm curious to know how you resolved your issue... did that S3D Gcode from jtktam work?

Thanks!

Jul 7, 2017 - Modified Jul 7, 2017
phearbot - in reply to GinjiVitis

The gcode did work, but I was super over the print by the time I finished and felt like it just came out ok. I gave it to a friend lol. It DID print though. Apparently the slack where the prusa guys used to hang out has been deleted... not sure when that happened. There may be a new one.

At any rate, I appear to have the gcode for both pieces together, not separate though. PM me if you would like it.

EDIT: I wasn't clear. The gcode I used was provided by jtktam, and it was created in Simplify 3D.

PM sent
and thank you!

i can send you my gcode (also on mk2) that i sliced from s3d

support just snap off no issues

join our slack chat (http://codehemi.com) where all the mk2 users hang out

Nov 30, 2016 - Modified Nov 30, 2016
phearbot - in reply to jtktam

Thanks man, much appreciated! PM sent.

.75mm is pretty far if you have a standard .4mm nozzle. You are talking about the distance from the top of the support to the bottom of the model? Mine is set to 1 layer, so the value will be the height of my current layer thickness. Raising your support density could help as well.

You can also try using a different slicer. Each slicer handles supports a little differently. I know others have had success with Cura. I think I used both Cura and Simplify 3D when I was first testing the model.

I worded it funny. I meant the horizontal distance between the support rows in rectilinear supports. I think the z distance was .05... Either way, I appreciate the input, I'll try Cura and incidentally Prusa released a new version of Slic3r yesterday that looks like it changes how they handle infill and supports.

Thanks again!

how long does this take to print? new to this and want to print at my local library

I don't remember how long it took me, but the settings and printer capabilities will determine how long yours will take. You can download the files, import into the print software that goes with the library printers, and it should give you an estimate.

seeing this inspired me to remix it and get a case i have been looking for and not been able to find.

i took your design, enlarged it by 1.5 times (14cm x 16cm x 6cm)
i rotated the orientation of the Pi inside the case so that the USB ports are facing to the back. i will be ordering a couple extenders from adafruit.com for the HDMI and USB power to move those to the back panel next to the USB Ports.
i also added a couple extra screw holes near the back of the case to have 4 screws holding the case together.

i am waiting for my print to be ready for pick up from a local maker and i am beyond excited to see how it turned out.

i will post in a few days once i get the parts, take pictures and put it all together.

Sounds great! If it works out well, feel free to post as a remix. I'm sure others would appreciate the modifications.

How much does the printed case weigh (Top + Bottom halves)? I'm trying to calculate how much filament i need based on your print settings.

Unfortunately, it has been a while since I have printed this and don't remember. You can pull it into your slicer (cura, etc) and it should give you an estimate.

Hey Andrew! My brother and I are about to undertake making 2 of these (first time 3d printing anything).

I read in a comment that you used paint on Black PLA I believe.

Would you mind sharing what brand of paint you used? You've inspired the crap out of us!

Thanks

I did use Black PLA, but the color didn't really matter since I painted over it.

  • I use several coats Rust-oleum Filler Primer for the base on my painted projects. It helps smooth the surface. Light sanding between coats. I left this as the main SNES color without anything on top.
  • The darker gray connectors and eject button were Rust-oleum Painters Touch Ultra Cover (Paint + Primer) in Satin Granite color
  • The purple buttons were a standard craft paint I picked up from Walmart. Unfortunately, I don't remember the exact shade of purple. I just bought a few options that looked close and then experimented a bit. The one I picked is off a bit, but it was close enough for me.

Thank you so much for the info!

We'll be sure to post our makes when we get them done!

Thanks for doing what you do!

Could you help me do some modifications to your design??

Sep 16, 2016 - Modified Sep 16, 2016
AndrewBougie - in reply to MrMolinero

Sorry for the delayed response. Unfortunately, I cannot help with modifications due to some other things that are taking up most of my time right now. I have provided the STEP file for this design though, and you may be able to find someone else here who is able to help.

What direction is everyone printing the top and bottom files? It seems logical to me to print the top upside down? But I just started 3d printing yesterday when my printer arrived...

if you print it upside down then the support will ruin the nice finish surface :)

The best orientation for most people would be to keep the orientation I used when uploading. The bottom is easy. The top uses quite a bit of support on the inside when printed as-is, but if you flip it upside down, your surface quality on the outside will not be good.

Comments deleted.

Does anyone have experience running PS1 games on LAKKA in this case with RPi3?

It doesn't seem like there is a lot of airflow with this case so I was kinda wondering if there were overheating issues.

I LOVE the design though, and it looks great.

That is a great question! There is space on the sides where the usb ports are and vents on the back. I haven't really taxed the processor or tried overclocking, so I don't have the answer for you. Hopefully someone else will have this info.

Is anyone doing anything extra to keep the top and bottom pieces together near the rear of the case? There are only two screwholes near the front, and nothing near the back, so the back is a little loose.

Aug 9, 2016 - Modified Aug 9, 2016
Martbob - in reply to tendonut

Yeah I have the same comment below. Temporary solution I tough was to use fun-tak. But Im pretty sure we can think a little more.

Probably use a Raspberry Pi circuit board hole to go trought and attach the two pieces together with a screw but that requires modifing the original model.

Fun-tak sounds like a great solution. :) I messed around with various options, but nothing really worked well with the design. Mine also printed very flat, so I didn't have any issues with it feeling loose in the back.

I'm open to suggestions!

Anyone had luck finding does specific screws in Canada ?

No Amazon or McMaster-Carr shipping to Canada? Or maybe cost prohibitive?

Aug 9, 2016 - Modified Aug 9, 2016
Martbob - in reply to AndrewBougie

I finally found some screws with spec of 4-40 1/2 at RONA.
It worked but it's a little bigger then what you recommended so it was not a prefect fit. I had to force it in a little.
But looks better then my 3 rubber bands holding the case :P

Glad you got something to fit! How is the case working out overall? Are you running Recalbox or using for something else?

I just order smaller screw from ebay.ca I will comment if they work better.

The case is beatiful, Only improvement we could add is a place for an other screw in the back because the back of the case can be open a little since both screw are in front. Maybe that will be fixed with the new screws. I will send photo of it reallly soon. Thanks again for the file so I could print this. It made my little project so much more easy :)

Im running RetroPie since it's seems to be the most popular so probably more support. But tell me if Im missing something about Recalbox.

Im very happy with the setup. I use a PS3 controller for wireless feature and it's great. I had some problem with input latency in Snes game. I was able to reduce this using linuxraw driver but games like SMW seems a little off still. If you have good config to help input lag I will be glad to test them.

Can't wait to see your print! Not sure why you would be having latency issues. Haven't experienced that with RecalBox. You could grab a second SD card, install Recalbox, and see if the issues carry over. Could help pinpoint if it's a hardware combo (PS3 + USB bluetooth) or just software. Do you have the same issues if using wired? Unfortunately (fortunately?), I haven't had any issues which means I haven't looked into it.

I wanted to try RecalBox but I don't have a usb bluetooth so I will stick to Retropie for now.

I submitted a quick photo. More to come.

Thanks for submitting that. Looks good!

Aug 24, 2016 - Modified Aug 24, 2016
Martbob - in reply to AndrewBougie

Uploaded more photos

That came out great! Thanks for sharing the new pics.

Wondering if you used Rasberry Pi 2 or 3 I have a digital file of the Rasberry Pi 3 B+ model supplied by eldondesigns
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:412639
Wondering if this is correct as it helps me change things around with a physical model present.

Raspberry Pi Model B+ PCB Assembly with major components

I used a digital model of the 2, but the footprint of the 3 should be really close, if not exactly the same.

i made some modifications to fit an OrangePi inside, but still waiting for the fillament to be delivered, and did not printed yet, but i've sliced with Slicer on the Repetier software of my Graber i3, with automatic supports on the top part, it doesnt seem like will come out okay, the supports is generated only in the middle, and looks like the "roof" will fall during printing for lack of supports...
ps.: excuse the bad english, hope you understand.

Hello Frumentari, i use RepetierHost and Slic3er, and yes, the roof actually felt down. If you go to Configuration/Print settings/Support Material near the end is an option that says: "Don't support bridges" you have to UNCHECK that option and you will see the slicer piece way better. I have slic3r 1.2.9 and Repetier 1.6.1. After that the piece is printed okay.

Aug 10, 2016 - Modified Aug 10, 2016
Frumentari - in reply to AsdoMX

yes bro, i did found that option days ago, and did sliced well, yesterday mail brings my filament and now i´m having some heat issues with the ABS, when i get a decent print i´ll post here with the SLDPRT for the orange pi as well.

cheers !

Unfortunately, I do not have personal experience with Repetier Host. It does slice properly using Cura or Simplify3D. If your printer accepts regular gcode, you may try Cura as an alternative slicer.

i dont believe i see that color on amazon. are those silver filament?

I printed in black and then painted everything. Gray filler primer, darker gray for the controller ports, and purple craft paint for the switches.

Jul 18, 2016 - Modified Jul 18, 2016

This model is definitely going to be one of my first projects once I get my settings dialed in on my new printer.

Out of curiosity though, have you ever considered a (very slightly) larger version that completely encloses the USB ports (and Bluetooth adapter) and microSD? I think it'd be even better if it retained the clean sides like the SNES (and my controllers connect to my Pi over Bluetooth as well). Hell, might even be possible to use a 6" extension cable to give one USB port to the rear too.

Just a thought though. This is an absolutely great design as is too.

Glad you like the design and thanks for the comment!

It's definitely possible and I'm sure it would look nice. My goal with this design was to make the case as small as possible while still making the board accessible. This allows for USB keyboards, controllers, etc. You can use it as a game emulator or for anything else the Pi is capable of running.

I'm not planning any modifications, but I did include the STEP file in the downloads. This would allow you to bring the model into most CAD programs and scale/modify it as needed. How about trying your hand at a remix?! :)

Going to make one with a high-end Stereolithography printer soon here. I'll be sure to let you know what it looks like. Going to have to paint it as a result, so need to research what kind of paints won't destroy the UV cured ink.

Awesome! That should look really good. Make sure to post your make once it is complete!

This is amazing! Your description was very informative and helpful. I think this will make a great summer project! Thank you for sharing this marvelous creation!

I'm happy you like the model. Be sure to share your print when it is finished!

I was looking at the emulator you are using. Wouldn't be easier to use something like RetroPie? You wouldn't have to buy a Bluetooth adapter. You could then buy a wired $7 SNES controller instead of $30 dollar bluetooth one. I don't know, I guess it is all about preference.

I looked at both and really like RecalBox. Either would work. Also, you definitely don't have to use a Bluetooth controller with RecalBox. Pretty much any wired USB controller will work with it and you can custom map the buttons as needed. I went with the wireless because it removed the tripping hazards when playing this with my 4 year old. He gets pretty excited while playing and I could see him accidentally yanking the cord causing the entire console to fly across the room. :)

This is awesome. I've been looking for exactly this for the last few months and I was on the verge of designing my own but you knocked it out of the park.

Glad you like it! Let me know how it comes out and be sure to share your print when it is done!

I have a dark gray and a purple plastic, I just ordered a light gray. I'll let you know how it turns out.

Perfect. You won't even have to paint it. Can't wait to see the print. Thanks for the comments!

I also ordered some transparent plastic, don't know if there is a way I could print a piece to funnel the power led up to the front hole on the left.

Comments deleted.
May 11, 2016 - Modified May 11, 2016

Hi, this project its awesome! Congrats
Can i use the Raspberry pi-zero??
https://www.raspberrypi.org/products/pi-zero/

Thanks! I haven't tried anything with the pi zero yet, but you probably could. I have included the STEP file if you want to modify the design to fit the smaller footprint.

Looks like Pi Zero is supported as of Recalbox version 4. https://github.com/recalbox/recalbox-os/wiki/ReleaseNote-4.0.0-(EN)
You would just need to make sure you have all the correct adapter cables.

Thanks, man. Ill try it, then Ill give you a feedback

Thank you, very much ;)

Wow! Very well done!

Thank you. Glad you like it!

Looks awesome! Would be really cool to scale it up a tiny bit more so that you could run the ethernet out the back and the usb to the front!

Apr 21, 2016 - Modified Apr 21, 2016
AndrewBougie - in reply to kferg55

Thanks! USB on the front would be cool. I'm using Bluetooth for the controller, so the only cables I have connected are power and HDMI out the back. I like the 90's look but without the wires! :)

Looks amazing!!! I love it

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