When built, this box will be able to show high/low temperature + humidity inside of your printer to give you critical information on hot/cold zones in the enclosed build area.
Code for Arduino: https://github.com/cncartist/arduino-project-box
This Arduino project box was created for a temperature/humidity monitoring system and includes space for a switch + excess wiring/sensors. The front is made to hold my LCD Project Box with a ST7735S display module. The project box comes with a separate hinged closable wiring lid which can provide quick access to the inside or allow you to put something much larger into it while keeping the lid off. The Arduino mounts to the project box via 2 M3x10mm or M3x12mm screws (depending on how much thread you want sticking out) at the top and the screw heads are counter sunk. The whole assembly hangs on the left side of the printer (right side hanger - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1522737), via the gap between the sheet metal. If your gap isn't large enough you can use a flat-head to pry the gap a little larger using care to not affect any other parts of the printer.
The whole project box setup takes:
1 Project Box
1 Project Box Hinged Lid
1 LCD Display Case Front (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1520137)
1 LCD Display Case Back (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1520137)
1 DHT22 Sensor Box (optional - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1520129)
1 DHT22 Sensor Box Cover (optional - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1520129)
1 Arduino UNO (~$6)
1 ST7735S 128x160 1.8" TFT LCD (~$4)
1 DHT22/AM2302 Digital Temperature Humidity Sensor (~$3)
1 10K ohm resistor for DHT22 (~10c)
2 M3x10mm or 12mm screws + M3 nuts (~$1)
Total purchased cost ~$14
Breadboard Jumpers (20cm + 10cm):
-It can be done with the wires being soldered but since I'd like to possibly change it in the future, it's built modular
8 20cm wires F to M for LCD to Arduino
3 20cm wires F to M for DHT22 start from Arduino
3 10cm M to M intermediate (for resistor)
3 20cm F to F connecting to DHT22
Support required for both. I printed the main box with wiring hole for the project box down and LCD area at the top of print. There is a decent amount of support printed for the internal structure - with care it is easy to remove. I used some extra support on the cover hinge pegs to make sure they came out rounded properly (picture of structure shown).
Printed in ABS with 3 shell layers, 7 top and bottom layers. My infill for these parts was 30% and layer height 0.12mm, feel free to change them to your desired amounts.
This case takes ~14 hours to print at 0.12mm resolution.
This box fits on my Qidi Tech printer and should fit Flashforge Creator Pro style printers as well provided there is a gap between the sheet metal which you can utilize. The bottom of the pegs for the cover may need a little bit of sanding but not much at all. The lid should open and close easily/cleanly and it snaps shut with some force.
The Arduino code is located here: https://github.com/cncartist/arduino-project-box
The full pin-out tutorial is shown in one of the attached images. You can follow the diagram for wiring and use your best judgement for the wire lengths. There is only one solder point recommended while using the jumpers, if you do not want to use the jumpers you can wire it however is best for your setup. The function for the switch isn't specified but in my case I used it to toggle the light inside of the printer on/off.
I have added a picture of the boxes I created during the progression of this project.