-Old- Milled/Printed 3D Printer Prusa I3 style

by Allted Apr 27, 2016
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Hola no encuento el stl de la lcd

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Thanks for another great design! Cant wait to build this. What size is the bed? It looks bigger then 200x200 to me. I hope so - it would be great to have a bigger build plate. also any chance you might design a bowden set up? I have always wanted to try dual extrusion and if this had a bowden set up I could use This mixer https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1759063 to make that happen. Thanks again.

Filament mixer / dual extrusion / mixing extruder
by techwit

Link to a newer version in the first line of the description.

Will this work on an anet a8?

You want to use the parts from that printer to build this one? Maybe, you will need to measure your rod lengths and check them against the parts list on the site.

I think i will try to make a bowden version.. :) I really like it :)

Cool can't wait to see it.

If I were to do a bowden I would mount the extruder stepper on the right side of the x gantry. keeping the tube nice and short and balancing the system a bit.

Yup thats the same thing i were thinking but not completely sure yet.. I just finished printing the parts

Is the orientation if the bed bearings correct? Seems to me that it would print better on it end (rotated 90 degrees on the the x-axis).

I'm not understanding the question. The Yaxis belt bearing? That would put the stepper in the way of the bed or make the machine taller.

I'm going to print the parts. When I load the Bed__Bearings.stl into Simplify3D it's going to print it as shown here in the thingiview (i.e horizontally). Wouldn't it be better to print it on it's end to get a more smooth accurate circle for the bearing?

Yes, I'm not sure why it is that way now, I'll fix it. Thanks

I modeled a new and more reinforced car for this printer to be used the MK8 extruder with E3D V6, it will soon be available for download.

Carriage updated + Extruder support (E3D v6 MK8 direct extruder) for Milled/Printed 3D Printer. v1.0

What are the changes in the new firmware? And what is Jeffeb3’s settings, how do they differ?

Updated the description for you.

I just completed my mpcnc. Now I am building this MP3dp. Quick question, when I pull in the dxfs, some of the holes are big enough to extend into the edge of the parts. I am thinking this is because i have to big of a bit selected for my tool path, what size bit should be used to cut out these parts?

1/8" should do it.

Ryan excuse me for this stupid question ...but... the distance between the smooth rods (x axis) is the same as the standard Prusa i3?
I can use my old carriage with hole for Greg extruder ?

Thanks ;)

I'm sorry it's not. I built the belt holder in and it changed the spacing.

Uh ! I understand..
you may (if possible) to share the carriage files differently from stl format but step or other so you can add media sensors and holes necessary? I printed everything but I miss only one :)

Sorry I thought I did. I can't find it anywhere. I will put it on the vicious1.com site this evening. I have to leave in a minute so I will do it when I get back.

If when you have time and loads that file I reply to this post so I downloaded and after the change start printing. ;)

Thank you very much Ryan!

Well I went to put it up and realized it has been on thingiverse the whole time. it is the step file on the list.

Laser cut and printed parts on sale now.
Limited time offer $29.99, offer ends 9.11.2016.
Check it out here:

WOw, great prices. I put it on the front page of vicious1.com!

Thank you.
Looking forward to see more builds of MP3DP :-)

Mounting the 608 Bearing - they have 5 mm hole .
looking at this picture it seems that there is some red around/next to the Bearing

is this right or what is the trick to mount the Bearings ?

Best Regards

The two bearings are under tension. They are held in by a small screw and it is at the correct tangent point to keep the bearings in line.

The red in the picture is a red rubber shield, I have a bunch of 608-2RS (rubber shielded) on hand, just so happen that these match.

Comments deleted.

Fast reply :-) Thanz

Hi Alted.
I am finished building the hardware and started mounting the Extruder (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1246951) using this mount (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1302584)
Unfortunately the mount is about 5 mm too low to fit in the vertical 8mm rods - I am not sure if the printer or the mount that doesn't align the Prusa standard - But I could really use some help to solve it.
I need to build this printer to finish my MPCNC parts - i bought parts from you around 4-5 months ago.
Best Regards

The Toranado Precision Geared 1.75mm Extruder - v2.1
Toranado PGE X-Carriage - Prusa i3 8mm

The rods on my printer are not the same as a Prusa, that mount will not work. I have included the step file for my mount so you can make your own.

I had a friend make some changes to the mount - now it fits :-)

Hi, great design. I love it. Working on building one.
After all parts was printed I noticed about hole for X-Idler and Y-Idler is out of center and much smaller then 8mm (for 608 bearing).
Looks like extruder mount is made with multi tools in mind :-). Are you planning to make more mounts: for Pan, Mill etc?
In other hand great design and easy to build, good job!

Thanks for the compliments.

The small idler screws should hold the bearings in the right place, belt nice and in line. This is so no special/large hardware is needed. Didn't want to sink a giant M8 in there.

Yup, multitool mount was the idea but I use the MPCNC more and never made any extra mounts. Now I just use it for easy accses to the hotend for maintenance and things. I can put up the mount step file so it will be easier.

Oh, I see, then when printer works do bearing shaking or still in the same position?

If you can post step file it would be great, I was about to draw it :-)

Best regards...

The bearings do not shake, they are always under tension.

Posting file now.

Thank you for quick reply, my assembly complete. I modified extruder mount for my direct drive extruder.
Using Repetier as firmware and host as software.
All working great. Will post some pictures soon.
Well made design with builder friendly in mind.

Thank you.

I Posted a screenshoot here -
Is this distance 64 cm - 640mm ?

Neither. What program did you open that with? You should be asked what units the dxf is in when you open it and it is mm. The largest dimensions of the cut pieces are 15.5", so the one you have highlighted is probably about 7".

Its autodesk 360 online version. I installed the viewer instead and here it shows right - t
Thank you for you help :-)

I almost finished printing all the parts. And start looking at the DxF files for the frame. I might do something wrong because the size I am getting is way too big. Its around 900mm x 900mm that around the double size what i think is right, I Uses mm in autodesk a360 viewer.
could anyone provide 1:1 PDF files (a4) in mm. I will not lasercut - just but it myselv by hand and machine

I exported the DXF's in mm, I am really surprised auotdesk software is sizing them incorrectly. I'll see what I can do about the PDF, I have no experience with that though.

How did the HDPE material turn out? Was it worth the cost difference between 1/4" MDF (I am guessing that is what the first revision was made from)? I am dead set on making one of these bad boys (may not be for a month or two yet - have to get some time to finish up my MPCNC of course). The pictures of the white printer look like hdpe and that it milled beautifully. I am guessing the price difference is not all that great maybe a third to twice as much? Thanks again for everything Ryan!

The HDPE was a dream to machine it made all kinds of little snow like curls, MDF is nasty dusty stuff and is a bit tougher to mill I think.

In the end they are both about the same functionally, acrylic would be better but it is more expensive and not as easy to mill. The MDF is so cheap I would say start with that. It works fine. I Can't find the reciept for the HDPE but I bought a half sheet so it was about $20-30 for 1 machines worth of parts. I found a place that has cool composite materials I want to try.

What size sheet is required as a minimum to mill a single printer?

i wonder how rigid this would turn out if i milled it outta acrylic.

Awww come on, who is gunna be the first one to do carbon fiber or aluminum! hint hint...Joking.

Acrylic would be pretty good I'm sure.

Are you going to add a kit or a few kit to your web site for this one?

I have most of the parts on there already but no bundles yet.

Pretty cool..Delta type design next maybe? Or maybe really go out there and try to make a polar design? At this point I'm building them more to see different/unique ways to do it rather than just needing another printer.

No delta's for me, I have done my time with math, school is over and I am trying to forget all about that part of it! Cartesian is my kind of easy math, I'll stick with that.

Next up is this printer with no belts all leadscrew. Not because I feel it will be much better but more because it is something a little different. All the parts for the build are here now I just need to edit some CAD files and print it up. Then who knows...I like making things.

i like this idea, i was thinking about turning your design here into a pcb mill. the lead screw idea would add a bit of rigidity and accuracy for such a task

I am really worried about backlash, belts don't really have this issue, that's why they get used so often. I am pretty sure the belt version is actually going to print better with less fine tuning, but I could be wrong. Kind of a fun proof on concept, see what happens type of thing.

Sounds interesting. I'd thought about trying that with the CNC (all screws), but at 48" wide it added up pretty fast. If you are looking for something to design, a redesign of this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1023812 to work with the new mount would be greatly appreciated. My design skills are just good enough to replace the Z nutlock design with the cutout for a leadscrew nut, but when it comes to mounts and keeping everything lined up right while focusing on rigidity - my abilities start to fall apart. (Or at least my confidence in those abilities anyway)

MPCNC - DWP611 Quick release adapter

Here is a preliminary rework of the adapter. If you print, let me know if any changes are needed.

MPCNC - DWP611 Quick release adapter 525 Update

WorkerDrone Just saw the new parts so if he upgrades I'm sure this will be the first design he updates. I don't own one so I can't make a mount for it. Besides measurements I would also need to check clearances and fit, plus I think It is overkill.

My DW660 died after 6 months, so I was hoping an actual router might be more sturdy than what is marketed as a cut out tool. It's had quite a few benefits too. The internal spindle speed control is much better on the DWP611 than it ever was using a speed controller on the DW660 - with an external speed controller on my DW660 if anything else turned on (even the 24V heated bed on a 3D printer) you would hear the DW660 drop in tone while the DWP611's speed control stays constant. Only real downside is that it doesn't begin to have near the same number of designs revolving around it that the DW660 does (since so many more people use the 660). I like the collet design a lot more too.

Any reason why these wooden parts shouldn't be made from similarly thick acrylic?

A clear acrylic printer with 3d printed brackets made with clear filament sounds fun :)

It would work great. The white one in the pictures is milled out of HDPE, less expensive and way easier to mill.

The more I look at it ! the more I like it ! can you post a video of it in action please.

im almost sure that printer can print a lot faster then what it's doing in the video, doesn't seem to be having vibration issues at all .

Yeah I haven't tuned the firmware very much, but I have found that my parts seem much stronger at 35mm/s so I print everything at that speed.

Can't be any worst the cheap acrylic ! put a good coat of polyurethane to protect from humidity and your golden good job.

I just picked up some king starboard to try my next build out of. Still looking for a good sheet material. Maybe I'll go nuts and try aluminum soon.

that's what I have , and pretty much all I sell , prusa aluminum frame kits and they do the job for sure. but like I said if had to chose from yours or an acrylic ! your would be it.

The link to your site on your profile doesn't work. I was trying to check out your frames. Are you cutting the frames I would love to buy one of mine if you have the capabilities. Both of my cnc's are being rebuilt right now with the new upgrades.

Yes I know, im sorry about that, the site is down for revamping. And I do not cut the frames myself , I have a local CNC shop do that for me. if you want one, I can sell you one either on ebay or simply paypal payment. I'm in Canada and my asking price is $105 CAD OR 84.00 USD. plus shipping which is around 20$ CAD.

Steve made one of these and was nice enough to share his files, http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1474991
I was thinking of having one cut for myself, normally the shop I use, charges less per item, the more copies I have them cut at one go due to setup fee's , perhaps you like one of Steve frame. I can ask for a price quote from my laser cutter.

Styx i3 (Updated)

Have you tried/considered Dibond (aluminum/propylene/aluminum composite). It looks nice. The Mendel 90's used to be built on Dibond and Ultimakers still are. It appears to be difficult to get it in 6mm though. The solution appears to be doubling up on the 3mm but I am still trying to figure out best way of using/designing for 3mm.

Stay away from Dibond for loaded uses. It looks nice, yes. But it flexes, holes wear out, plywood or plain aluminium is better.

Just my two Euro-Cents.

Thanks. I'm about to cut up some HDPE right now. Hope it isn't to flexible.

I can't find any locally I looked a few months ago. I'll try again if this starboard doesn't work well.