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Blade Inductrix FPV Camera Mount - Tiny Whoop

by NorCAL3D, published

Blade Inductrix FPV Camera Mount - Tiny Whoop by NorCAL3D May 1, 2016
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34416Views 7499Downloads Found in R/C Vehicles

Summary

This is a Camera/VTX mount for the Blade Inductrix. It fits the ever popular Quanum/HK/Banggood Micro Camera/vtx combo. Weighs in at ~0.85g when printed with TPU, holds the camera securely and eliminates the chance of tearing a SMD component of the board with aggressive double sided tapes.

20 degree mount Works well with the 1.8 lense on these cameras.

All stock hardware is used, super simple installation. Just remove the front, and 2 side Flight Controller Screws, press them into the mount, and reassemble. Slip the cameras power wires through the hole in the mount, and seat the camera in the mount. Solder your power wires to the Battery input pads and your ready to fly.

UPDATE: Added 0 and 10 degree mounts in a lite configuration, also added a Lite 20 degree. Go Whoop it up!

Print Settings

Printer Brand:

Robo 3D

Printer:

R1 ABS + PLA Model

Rafts:

No

Supports:

No

Resolution:

0.2mm , 20 microns

Infill:

100%


Notes:

Prints fast and super clean. Doesn't get much easier than this.

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I'm gonna try to print one of these for my Eachine E010. I'll let you know how it goes!

Do I need to hot glue the camera in or is it snug fit ?

NO it should be a nice snug fit with TPU.

I tried printing this on a Form 2 printer http://formlabs.com/products/3d-printers/form-2/

The first print did not work well, the base (where the screws go in) came out paper thin for some reason. The box and the little triangle rib came out ok. We had it oriented with the base plate of the model on supports above the plate of the printer. Trying another print with the part angled to see if that makes a difference. If that doesn't work we may have to re-do the design to make the bottom plate a touch thicker.

it should be oriented so that the bottom of the mount is flat on the print surface. But with an SLA I'm not sure what to expect. The print was designed to be printed out of a flexible material, so you may have some fitment issues once printed in a rigid material. The camera fits with a slight compression to hold it in place.

After re-reading Form 2's troubleshooting guide, I think the issue was trying to print it out flat. For SLA they seem to like large flat surfaces to be printed at an angle. It really boosts the print time though, from 30 minutes to over 3 hours to print all three of the "light" mounts at once. I'll let you know how it turns out

Got the part to work, in the Form 2 SLA you get better results if you print the part at an angle, they require it to be printed with supports also, so you . Only issue was the power wires on my camera (FX798T). The solder pads are in the same place but the wires were soldered coming straight out the back instead of the side and there's a little blob of black silicon on them. So to get the camera to fit in I had to cut a slot on the back of the mount about 2mm wide starting right at the corner. dremel out a couple of mm slot in the back of the mount so the camera could slide in. The mount might be more universal if you just cut about 2mm out of both sides of the back left corner.

looks great! Can you post a .step file of the 20 degree mount? I want to add a couple posts on either side to put toothpicks into for protecting the camera transmitter antenna.

thank you for providing this model file

Looks great, any chance we can get this with lower/no angle?

Have you tried it yet? With the lense on this camera you see everything. With a flat mou t half of the camera view would be the front props and board.

no, but I do run the camera with no around 5-10 degrees at the moment and it runs good :)

Awesome! Perfect for some tinywhoop action. Thanks for the design man, great job

not saying it's fragile but wouldn't it be strong to have the triangle pointing backwards? :)

Edit: forgot the power stuff is there... just forget what I just said :-P

No worries. I intended it to be printed out of TPU. The flexible nature makes it a better choice, if available. The little vertical rib stiffened up the front some, but allows it to flex and absorb a bit of the impact. I was going to cover the entire top but I wanted to keep weight to a minimum.

Next we need a light way to protect the antenna. I think Im going to use some expanding foam and a greased spironet cap to make a mold to protect the poor thing. :)

Thats a good idea... already had forgotten about TPU^^ :)

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