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Circular cooling duct i3, Hessine M505, Anet A8 (MK8 based extruder)

by markwv, published

Circular cooling duct i3, Hessine M505, Anet A8 (MK8 based extruder) by markwv May 7, 2016
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22653Views 4984Downloads Found in 3D Printer Accessories

Summary

A circular fan nozzle to provide cooling from all sides on a printer with MK8 based extruder. The part is very light (12 gram) and therefore does not need any additional support, just pressing it in the fan outlet like the original funnel is sufficient.

The design leaves space for the heater and thermistor wiring.

OpenSCAD file is also included so you can change it any way you like.

Print Settings

Printer:

Hesine M505

Rafts:

No

Supports:

No

Resolution:

0.2mm

Infill:

20%


Notes:

Infill is not very relevant as there is virtually no infill required for this part. Make sure bridging works decently on your printer.

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va como anillo al dedo sin tener que modificar nada

No way to print a good top layer. Never had problems with it before. Seems to be that the filament hasn´t enough contact with the walls. Seems that the hotend stops 1 - 2 mm before reaching the walls. The thickness for the bottom and top layer is 1.2 mm. So that are 6 layers. Maybe you can redesign it so that the walls are running a little bit up.

had a few issues with this... the top layer was not airtight and some of the walls as well. and when homing the duct would hit the z spring coupler and the machine would fail to home itself or rip the duct off.

I love this design, just can't get the thing to bridge on the top layer either lol has anyone had success yet that's had issues?

I had the same issue, going to try increasing the overlap as it seems some of the strings are not making a good connection and falling in or being pulled off on the return as suggested below?? I,m also going to increase the layer thickness

I got a non-solid top layer. It looks like the strings falls inside (maybe that's what you meant by the need of decent bridging?).
What can I do to fix it?

This has most likely to do with your printers' bridging ability indeed.

There are a lot of variables at play here, so it is hard to say what might be the cause. Some general things that I experienced:

  • Don't try to bridge to slow or the strings will sag.
  • The same if you print too hot or without sufficient cooling.
  • Don't try to print too fast, the strings will break.
  • The same if you print too cold.
  • Make sure you have enough overlap with the perimeters to avoid the string getting pulled loose on the return direction.

Success!

Mark

Which material did you use?
PLA or ABS?

I have made them both in PLA and ABS. I would recommend to use ABS if you are planning to print ABS parts and use a hot bed. A PLA cooling duct with a hot bed set for ABS will result in a deformed duct.

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