Kossel mini - magnet rod upgrade

by janw93 May 9, 2016
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sorry to let you down. I'm sure you wouldn't have any trouble with assembly with right tool. If you used "drive set"-type wrench for M3 nuts, you could easily screw it to place (not sure how to properly name the tool). Also my set of balls didn't consist of ball-stud-nut, it was just ball which ended up like screw.
I'm sorry to hear you dislike my design, I would still appreciate if you could upload a picture and let everyone know where did you have problems.

P.S. You comment 3 times, would really appreciate if you clean this up.


Hi , the design is good actualy , I just need to adapt it a little .
Also the idea to use tubes for cooling could be great .

Do you have the cad files to share so I can change it ?

Let me know what you need and I will fix it.

Hi ,
I need:
The connections for studs vs balls as on http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1546124
And I need to change the distance between balls on carriage to be 48mm because I'm using effector for e3d chimera that already have 48mm distance. I like your carriage with belt tension so I wanted carriage with 48mm distance and better studs assembly.

Thank you

Magnetic Effector with 3 Fans and LED Light Ring for Kossel Plus
by huntley

I will change the connection for balls and stud. But I won't be able to change distance between balls because that changes the whole design and It brings up way to much work.

I will upload now.

Let me know what you need and I will fix it.

Hi , thank you for fix , can you do the same for carriage ?
I also found the tool to fix the nut in your original design but still need to have flat surface for ball stud.

And on the carriage I had additional problem , its too close to the linear guide carriage on top.
What happend that its put pressure on 2 small screws on the top and they move the red rubber and this
cause the carriage to have more friction with linear guide .

So I think its should not to be so close on top , few milimeters of space will be better.

Sorry, I haven't seen your comment since everything so messed up with these comments and replys.
I changed carriage. I have linear rail and I haven't had any trouble. I made extra 3 mm like you requested.

Comments deleted.

Everything was very promissing until I printed it :)
The assembly of magnetic balls is difficult , even if everything printed well and stud go to the place its very difficult to fix it by nut .
Its should be the nut that has fix position and not the stud .

Its so solid! So tight! Amazing work! Thanks a lot!
Ive got a question, can you share sources for Effector_plate_MAG_v3_PLUS, or maybe you can do some addition for me ?

I have 10mm bearing balls with M4 hole in it. And I use M4 pin + nut to lock the ball.
So it will be perfect to have round recess at the top, and slot for M4 nut at the bottom.

Really glad you like it!
I think I know what are you looking for. I can find time next week to remake it and upload. Why don't you use M4 screw instead of pin and nut?

I'm also working on some new, improved and lightweight rod system. It has bearing balls glued to carbon rods on each side. Plate & carriage has 10 mm round (bowl-ish) holes where rods fit in nicely. Its all connected via spring in the middle of 2 rods. Really liked the idea because it's very lightweight compared to bearing balls being on the plate. I'm already testing it on my new Kossel XL.

Why don't you use M4 screw instead of pin and nut?

Well, because Im an idiot. I took balls from aluminium effector where there is no possibility to use screw, shut down my brains and transfer them to your design. Screws are much better, thank you =) !

The whole head weighs 130 grams, I don't think its too heavy. At least my 8mm carbon rods with 12x4 magnets feels OK. But any improvements will be appreciated.

Btw this head is the only part that I borrowed in my delta printer design. Its realy good. Thank you!

Here, I uploaded fixed STL model. Your username at the end. Let me know how it works out. Upload some pictures.

Thanks a lot for your concern! But I've already fix this problem.
I've used low M6 nuts between effector and steel ball, so now it fits perfectly.
Cannot attach images to reply, so here's direct links to photos.


Now I'm working on Z probe based on hall sensor.

OK, no problem.
Let me know how this are working out with hall effect sensor...

Hi man this looks very nice... is it possible to get the cad files so i can modify it? i would like to have two fans cooling the print instead of your solution with the air pump :) airpumps are loud .... i would also like to modify it with a another z-probe.... like the one on the atom delta printer

sure, give me your email. I would also like to receive back your upgrades.

The third image looks like it is demonstrating a surface cooling fan setup. What does the rest of that setup look like?

The aluminium tubes? Yes, those are for plastic cooling. I have connected them to fish tank air pump. It pumps 4.9 L/min, I'm upgrading to bigger one soon because this one has only 2 outlets. I also tried fridge compressor but it kept leaking oil through outlet. So I bought this simple pump for 10€. It does the job, but I have feeling it's missing the third cooling nozzle.

hi there, how exactly do you position the z-limit switch sensor?

it is allen key probe. Try googling it. If you still can't figure it out I can add picture.
If you printed it out, please uploade picture.

Hi yes could you post a picture please? Of how it is attached to the effector. That would be great.. Btw i saw videos of it already. i'm not familiar of how to programme it into the firmware

Everything is on the effector already. You just need endswitch, 1.75-2mm thick rod to make your custom length, pencil spring, terminal block and safety pin.

Follow the instructions on the site:

I can't help you with firmware. I didn't have any troubles installing it in Marlins firmware. I don't know about other.

Thank you so much. That's the thing.. Where can i get the programme from? Sorry, i'm abit new with all these

You can get firmware on this site:

Sorry, I can't help you more with firmware. I'm not to good with programming myself.

Alright.. But what i mean is, do you need to change anything in the programme to include the probe in?

everything is under configuration.h.

Is this compatible with an E3d V6 hot end?

It all depends on heat sink length. Mine is 50mm long(tall).

Cool! I'll try printing one then. Thank you so much for the fast reply. I'll let you know how it works out!

No problem, happy to help! Please do. Thanks

Drat, I printed it and realized my E3D V6 is the short one, won't quite fit. Great design on your part though, one of the nicer looking parts I've printed lately.

How long is your E3D? I can try and change it to shorter version. Should be made for original E3D anyway. Give me complete height and height from bottom to lower clamping flange.

The heatsink appears to be 27mm, the assembly from the bottom of the heatsink to the very top appears to be 42mm. Bottom to the bottom of the top of the clamp flange is 38mm. I can take a picture if that helps.

is this your heatsink size?


This is E3D original heatsink. I think I still have 1 spare E3D heatsink at home. I can try changing it, but I'm afraid I won't be able to fit cooling fan above the plate since height is only ~33mm.
I will let you know when I finish it. Might take some time, can't use my license for SW right now.

Yup! That's the one alright. Sure. No worries if you can't do it. I can take a stab at designing something. Thanks for all your time.

Uploaded new version and e3d version. I haven't tested the new lower version. Let me know how it turns out if anyone makes it.

Very cool! I'll run one off this week and post pictures of the results.

Can you post links to purchased parts? Thanks

I updated summary with links. I don't really know where I bought hotend, I can post drawing of cold part of hotend.