Kossel/Delta fullbody Effector - E3DV6

by kirill91 May 17, 2016
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I printed this (or rather one of the remixes, but anyway). I haven't had any problem with the PLA melting even without adding any special insulation, but I have had trouble with there being too much cooling. I've had to block/turn off one of the fans in order to not have thermal failure, just something to keep in mind. Though I am going to add insulation eventually I haven't gotten around to it yet.

If you're using a genuine E3D V6 variant hot-end, you could just pick up one of the silicone socks that they sell, solves the thermal issue completely.

would it be outrageous to have this remixed to have 40mm fans? so i could use 3 notcua ones?

This is a nice end effector for E3D's and clones. I love how compact it is and unlike "other" compact end effectors, the rods have free travel.
I have found one vexing problem with my prints. The fan mount holes are too big to effectively use m3 screws. I have to melt ABS into the holes to get enough material to allow the screws to "bite". Everything aligns perfectly, just those holes are a bit too big.
Is there a chance that you can whip up a revision that reduces the hole size and/or increases the amount of plastic in the hole area for screws to bite better?

I modified the part cooler a bit so that the heater and thermistor wires can go straight out the side. I have a clone whose heater screw was tightened such that it is not removable. Sadly, the wires were oriented such that bending it to go alongside the heater block was NOT an option, thus, my hack. I too will be using the silicone sock, I will experiment with the cotton if that fails to do well enough.

Good work!

I made one as well and love it. my machine printers much better due to the improved cooling for pla.

unfortunately i had to revert to an older heater block vs the volcano i had before. Would you be able to make a volcano shroud for this design?

Just posted the Volcano Skirt (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2803050) that I made last month for the E3D V6/Volcano combo.

Kossel/Delta Fullbody Effector - E3D Volcano Skirt

I like this design alot recently bought a delta recently and printed this in some abs.. It came out great!! :) im sure it will function perfect as well :)

I'm using this on an Anycubic Kossel Pulley Version and printed items are a bit too small (~4%). Any Idea how to fix this?

Newer Marlin has not EFFECTOR_OFFSET. These are the only options I have, obtained per autocalibration:

\ // Print surface diameter/2 minus unreachable space (avoid collisions with vertical towers).
\ #define DELTA_PRINTABLE_RADIUS 90.0 // mm
\ // Center-to-center distance of the holes in the diagonal push rods.
\ #define DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD 218.0 // mm
\ // height from z=0 to home position
\ #define DELTA_HEIGHT 331.44 // get this value from auto calibrate
\ #define DELTA_ENDSTOP_ADJ { -0.63, -0.38, -0.02 } // get these from auto calibrate
\ // Horizontal distance bridged by diagonal push rods when effector is centered.
\ #define DELTA_RADIUS 100.37 //mm Get this value from auto calibrate
\ // Trim adjustments for individual towers
\ // tower angle corrections for X and Y tower / rotate XYZ so Z tower angle = 0
\ // measured in degrees anticlockwise looking from above the printer
\ #define DELTA_TOWER_ANGLE_TRIM { -0.06, 0.11, -0.05} // get these values from auto calibrate
\ // delta radius and diaginal rod adjustments measured in mm
\ //#define DELTA_RADIUS_TRIM_TOWER { 0.0, 0.0, 0.0 }
\ //#define DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD_TRIM_TOWER { 0.0, 0.0, 0.0 }

I noticed the same thing about the parts being just about ~4% off. I even tried printing with PLA twice just to reduce the possibility of shrinkage and I still had to take a dremel to the center hole to be able to get the heat sink in through the hole. I used a brandy new genuine E3d V6 hotend and still had to really jam it in there.

Nice design, but i wonder if there is any chance to get the 3 fans connected to the trigorilla 3d mainboard?

What are the screws used to put this model together?

7 of M3x10mm for the hot-end clamps and lower ducting
12 of M3x16mm for the fan mounts
6 of M3x25mm for mounting the rod arms
6 of M3 nuts, also for the rod arms
Hope that helps :)

Hi there,

I have made ur Kossel/Delta Fullbody effector. It works really great and love the fact that it is so compact. But for me there is a mayor downside when i print at low speed the product side where the heaterblok is gets a bit inaccurate because of overheating. Do u have any solution for me? i already have the blue Silicone Socks from e3d but still there seems to be a bit of overheating...

any help is appreciated,


I never tried the blue Socks, and honestly do not believe in a great solution of silicone for heat containment. You can see by pictures and advise on summury that I implemented the more traditional and mostly strong solution of the insulating cotton and capton tape. With that solution it's so greatly insulated that you can touch with your fingers the kapton sock when inside the heater is at 220°, consequently cant be a problem for the print. You must to close accuratly the kapton sock around the heater to insulate it from all the sides, in order to not create problems for the effector itself.



I found the problem. because of the silicon sock the air was blowing to the side of the heater instead of the product. I raised air flow and now it seems to work just fine. But as always there is a other problem... After the installation of the new effector the x and y dimensions are off. (like 4% or some). the z axis seems fine.. u have any idea how to solve that problem?

Ty for previous response ^^

(N.v.m found the problem the 25mm DELTA_EFFECTOR_OFFSET was not correctly added.)

I'm glad you solved your problem, pay particular attention on configuring DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET:


When it is wrong you have the anomaly like in the previous picture and also the rendered dimensions problem. When it is correct and the effector remain completely flat moving along the plate, also the dimensions will be completely right.

Comments deleted.

summury updated

what is effector offset ?

summury updated

Comments deleted.

I'm curious - What did you print the effector used in the above pictures on? The print quality is outstanding!!

Hi, with the same machine of the pictures and with the same effector. The gol of a good print quality is in good mount, calibration, configuration but above all the rod end joints & linear guides quality or rather: mechanics quality. The precision comes from precision.

This looks very neat, great!

can you (or someone) recommend a silent 30mm fan? I have great mute 40mm ones, but couldn't find a 30mm one. After finding those, I'll switch over to this design.

Oh, and is there a way to guide the cables through so they come out alongside the bowden tube without looking ugly or disturbing the air flow?

Hi, I solved it like in pictures up, with a black indipendent cable group that go to the board. I think that the common commercial 30mm fans are all similar for the noise level.

Okay, I think I'll have a try.What kind of special cotton did you use for insulation? And in one picture you wrapped the heating block in orange tape, is that also kapton? And is it in addition or in replacement of the grey tape in the upside down picture? It reminds me of the official blue sleeves, shown here: e3d-online.com/image/cache/data/Socks/v6-3mm-Sensor-Block-cutout-24v-1000x1000.jpg
they seem not to be on ebay, though

You can find that cotton insultation on Ebay in form of stripes. Yes I used additional kapton tape to keep togheter the cotton stripes. Ignore the grey tape, it was a test, to see if it can be enough, it failed! :)

Thank you for the nice design , i added the auto level system feature to it .

Effector for delta printer .
by chobi

Good work, I'm not a fan of auto levelling but for those who like that solution it's a good remix! ;)

Thank you for sharing, it is really nice design. I would try to print and install it into my kossel mini.

You are welcome..;) keep particular attention on insulation of the HotEnd. That improves also the stability of temperature of the same and optimize the energy drain.

Comments deleted.

nice design. just dommage dosent have autolevel with endoff switch.

check out the one i modified to use the auto level system .

Effector for delta printer .
by chobi

I'm not a supporter of bed autolevelling. Beacause I think the quality of printing must to be searched in a Good manual & Structural calibration of the machine. For this reason I have not spent time in Autolevelling supports.

any chance I could get the solid model from you? I really love this design, but I would have to make a few changes to fit my printer. a solidworks model would be awesome ;)

Hi, if you check, now there is the downloadable source file between the Thing FIles.

thanks for very nice design - but, I'd like to separate two fans whit wall since I think it is not good to cool some materials (ASA, ABS ....) during printing.
So, is it possible to share source files? Does not matter which 3D format, I can work with almost all of them.
Thank you very much

Hi, if you check, now there is the downloadable source file between the Thing FIles.

What do you mean? This structure implements 3x30mm fans into the same air flow room, that results, in my experience, more powerful that the classic 2x40 separated flows design.

Nice design. What are the screws needed?

nice design,
what is the distance between the rods?

Hi, 40mm like Kossel standard.

under 40mm fan

thank you,
is there a way to add room for the auto bed level switch?
i would love to get the SW model if you can send it to me.

Let me your email, and I will send you the source.

Please help me, I use 1 fan 30mm and 2 fan 40mm

This design it's provvided of 3 - 30mm fans, it's strictly forced by rod horizontal standard offset of 40mm. There is no space for 40mm fan with this solution.

Hi Kirill,

You have designed a great effector but few modification I would like to make to this effector.

  1. I just want 2 fans (1 side) for hotend (2 side) for cooler, so I will add some kind of wall between hotend and cooler, because in some case I do not want cooler for some print, so I can switch off the cooler, with your design it is not possible to turn off the cooler.
  2. I will add infrared sensor for auto leveling to 3rd side wall and will mound sensor board close to the hot end and some cables holder for heater wire and thermistor (like this effector http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1252945 )


Phineas 3DP
by ustkl


I especially designed 3 fans with the same flow canal beacause I retain it works good. 1 fan attached directly to power source and 2 fans controlled by firmware. This frame idea comes from Kosel Pro design. To do your solution it's faster design another indipendent frame that modify this one. There are too much dimmensional thresholds in this one that I overcomed by a hair, by considering the specified hotend, fans and rodends space occupation. This is the best compromise for this solution.

Best regards,


I agree with you, your design is really good, does bottom air flow makes hot end cool down? I used 40mm fan cooler for my kossel build diy printer and my print layer did not stick properly when I use cooler, so from now on I print without cooler.

I am planning to redesign my effector based on your design.


I think is the best solution. Take in mind that the key for a best sticking is the warm plate, also for PLA. Any cooler take in tension the hot end forcing it to more work but this stabilize the temperature, in my experience.


I it possible to have source file for this effector? width is bit bigger so I wan to modify to fit for my mini kossel printer.


Hi Riz,

In wich format do you prefer il. It designed with Solidworks. What exactly its bigger?


I can work with SolidWorks, but nomally I use FreeCAD, your model is 4-6mm bigger from all 3 sides, can't attach screenshot to this comment :( can I send you screenshot via email also the effect stl file which I use for my printer, so you can measure the size.

Also my effector rod pitch is 38mm, your one is bit bigger.