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DJ105, 105mm brushless quadcopter

by DirtyJ_Designs, published

DJ105, 105mm brushless quadcopter by DirtyJ_Designs May 21, 2016

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Summary

**Version 1.4 files are now up. Now supports runcam owl camera!

Follow the development on rcgroups:http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2665918

3d printed parts available for those without printers at the etsy links below.

Full 3d printed parts kit: https://www.etsy.com/listing/281782614/dj105-quadcopter-frame-kit-3d-printed?ref=shop_home_active_1

Top Plate: https://www.etsy.com/listing/295294577/dj105-top-plate-3d-printed-nylon?ref=shop_home_active_4

Bottom Plate: https://www.etsy.com/listing/281782312/dj105-quadcopter-bottom-plate-3d-printed?ref=shop_home_active_2

Mounts Kit: https://www.etsy.com/listing/281782176/dj105-quadcopter-fc-mount-camera-vtx?ref=shop_home_active_3

105mm brushless quadcopter with integrated prop guards. This is based off the RS90 design but will work with fullsize rotorX 2535 props. It will support 11XX sized motors and 1304 motor that work with the 2535 props. This design supports a fullsize naze as well. Currently including mounts for the TBS unify pro VTX and the 170/120 degree $10 banggood camera. More mounts will be coming in the future for different cameras and vtx's. I also plan to design mounts for the Hubsan 200w 720p recording module as well as the 808 #16 decased camera.

To finish this frame additional hardware is required:

14- 20mm m3 nylon standoffs
28- 6mm m3 nylon screws

Multirotormania is a great source for colored nylon hardware. http://www.multirotormania.com/80-colored-nylon-

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lmNWCqTTtRo

Print Settings


Notes:

HIGHLY recommended to print the frame plates in Taulman 910 nylon. When printed in nylon this frame has proved to be nearly indestructible. Print the center plate and spacers in PETG/PLA/ABS. Camera mount and vtx mount are designed to be printed in nylon or TPU, something with some flex.

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I'm busy printing the top plate, finally continuing with this beauty. What part is needed to fit a Full size Naze FC please?

is there a version with 3" props?

Yes I've used the minicube in my build. I also modelled a better centre plate for it so that it can face forward rather than being at 45 degrees

Comments deleted.

Contact me on etsy. I have one kit left in stock. https://www.etsy.com/shop/DirtyJDesigns?ref=hdr_shop_menu

It would be great to see a dj110 or dj115 that accomodates 1304/6 motors and 3" props...that would be a dream config!

Any1 else having issues printing the Owl cam mount? tried many settings, coming apart when printing :(

Do you have brim and support on?

I do yes, testing with PLA and every print it fails half way.

Dec 9, 2016 - Modified Dec 9, 2016
truhlik_fredy - in reply to Deanfinny

Maybe if you want it badly I would slower the printer speeds, rather print something at 30% than print it 3 times and failing. Photo would help as well.

oh and when I was printing it I had fan turned on, if you don't have fan then the printing speed could compensate for the lack of cooling

Could it be, that the UnifyPro mount (without SMA) is too small to fit? The hole for the spacers fit perfectly, but there is no way i can slide the unify pro into it. Also when you look through the top plate, you can see that the slot of the unify mound is smaller than the cut out in the top plate.

any chance of getting a top plate designed that will accept the new wave of all in one vtx cameras that everyone is using on tiny whoops and such? that would honestly make this the perfect frame since it uses all standard parts and hardware, and I would certainly love to build one.

I'm pretty sure it will fit some of the all in one cameras in its current form.

Man this is what I wanted to design, it looks amazing I will print it soon. I dont know how to print nylon I will try with PLA or ABS. Thanks

Where have you installed your ESCs? Normal ESCs or all in one 36 x 36mm unit?

I used 4 in 1 for one of my builds. My friend who has me building his is using single ESCs and I have mounted them on the arms leading out to the motors. I had to do this due to my friend trying to build it with super short wires on the motors. :)

I have a FlashForge Creator Pro and when I put this in my slicer software it is a TAD to big! Any ideas on what I could do? It is less than a 1/8th Inch of overhang. I was thinking of getting a little bit bigger piece of glass but not sure if my printer would print that much over. :( Just got my Nylon too...

I'd like to build one of these with some of my K12 students, is there somewhere I can order the entire kit (minus frame) at?

Or can someone recommend a build with components from one place that has everything needed?

Thanks!

Any Chance you would have a .dxf file for the frame? i would like to try laser cut it. Thanks

Comments deleted.
Jul 25, 2016 - Modified Jul 25, 2016

If we use 35mm standoffs could we use 1306 motors? EMax has new red spec motors 1306 4000KV for $12.00 that take 3 inch DAL props.
http://www.emaxmodel.com/brushless-motor/rs-series-motors/emax-rs1306-racespec-motor-cooling-series.html

I think you'd have to cut the props as I think the 1306's only take 3" props. Better to use RCX 1304 with 2535 props.

Any chance of designing one to fit 1306 motors and 3 inch props? Reason I ask is that 1306 motors have come down way in price and then we could also use 1804 motors also. Similar to the owl design https://flexrc.com/product/owl-diy-kit/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BPplZQiygZ8

Any idea why the camera mount has those gaps in the mesh? I intend to print it with ABS but it'll only print a single layer for the standoff mounts and those gaps will add insult to injury by guaranteeing delamination at those points. The picture posted here looks like the camera mount has extra reinforcement at the top and bottom of the standoff mounts and that doesn't show up in the stl.

There are gaps because those center sections are supposed to be removed after printing. They are designed supports for the print. You may have trouble fitting ABS over the standoffs as its a pretty tight fit. Best when printed with something flexible.

bricked my cc3d revolution mini, I hate shitty usb cords. got a furious on the way though. I will test out the new file going to have 2 plates in mine as I have a 4 in 1 esc. Got all my motors spinning the right direction though....can't wait to get this bird in the air

Hello, do you think you can make a 1306 hole pattern?

I believe 1306 motors are too tall to fit within this frame. As far as I know there are also no 2.5" prop options for 1306 motors. The biggest motors that will fit on this frame are RCX 1304 with RotorX 2535 props.

They are too tall, I made a template and noticed. Thanks for replying tho.

What % infill are you using?

Jun 28, 2016 - Modified Jun 28, 2016
sadkins1981 - in reply to cnr1089

With Taulman 910 nylon filament, I use 100%, with a concentric infill pattern. Haven't broken the frame yet...

Whats the print temp for that Taulman 910 nylon?

I've had great success at 275c with my Maker Select. No way to tell if my extruder is actually getting that hot or not though.

I also have the Maker Select. Did you add a Micro Swiss hot end and heat block to hit these temps?

Yes, I have the micro swiss hot end and cooling block on my printer. The stock one really can't handle anything higher than 250 before the PTFE tube starts melting

hmm. says print temp is best at 245. if that's the case, i'm picking up a roll asap :)

Personally I had horrible delamination problems at 245 with this filament. Let us know if it works for you!

i got mine up in the air 1104 eachine 4000kv 20 amp DYS esc skyline32 mini advanced powered with a 500 25c zippy compact dr4 receiver.It looks great but when i fly it i get three good laps and then battery low and motors are too hot to touch. the weight is 148g i havent hooked up the FPV gear yet. i have the ESC at stock with a new update and ive kinda tuned the FC my D is 25. any suggestions on the setting to get the motors a little cooler?

Jun 17, 2016 - Modified Jun 17, 2016
DirtyJ_Designs - in reply to ChiSty

Try posting in the rcgroups thread. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2665918

I can't speak to those motors but my 1105 6500kv motors get very hot ripping hard for 2 minutes or so. I think the little motors just have trouble dissipating the heat. But I've had them flying for awhile and they haven't died yet so I guess its ok. You could try lowering your ESC timing if you wanted to make them run cooler, but that will reduce your power a bit.

I do have some higher kv motors coming 7000 DYS...maybe they might be cooler I'll keep the page in the loop with it ....might someone have compared them please comment...all in all its great minus that mottors getting hot (has nothing to do with your frame) is the only thing not making it my #1goto ....could you make one for 1304 or 1306 motors?

Those 7000kv dys will likely run much hotter. I dont think any of the 11XX sized motors can efficiently spin the 2535 props. The higher KV will just produce more heat and have lower torque. I have a set of RCX 1304 motors on the way, they should bolt right up.

thanks for all your info i havent had much time to fly but tomorrow when i get a chance im going to lower the ESC timing and see what it flies like and i might just order some of them 1304s.

Is there a way to scale it up to use 3030 props?

Printing mine out of Black T-Glass, will post photos when it is done!

Can't wait to see!

Finally got 90% of the parts in...still waiting on some...

DJ105 in Black T-glase and blue flexi
Rotorx 1105b 6500kv motors
2535 quad blade
Littlebee 4 in 1 20A ESC Pro version
CC3D Revolution Mini
Bonka 3S 500mah HV
XSR-SB
170 degree BG cam
200mw bg vtx

Hello, very nice design. Are you flying in 2S or 3S?
Can you give the exact reference for the motor and props?

Current build components:

Rotor X 1105b 6500kv motors
Rotor X 2535 quad props
FVT littlebee 20a escs
Naze 32 acro with betaflight
Micro Frx Frsky receiver
120 degree 520tvl survelizone camera
TBS unify Pro VTX
Nanotech 65c 450mah batteries

That appears to be the same 4 in 1 esc sold by readytoflyquads, the calvary. Should work well. Though I don't believe it will work with 2s as indicated, but not positive.

Assuming your ESC's can support it, 2S-4S. 4S might burn out the motors... Maybe with 1306's. A couple people have ran this frame at 2S, but most at 3S. Unfortunately my ESC's won't support 2S (Readytoflyquads 4-in-1 Cavalry)

about the ESCs you using the 4 in 1 with EBec? or 4 single ESCs?

So far I've only built one using individual esc's. I'm very interested in trying one of the 4 in 1 esc options though. It should work fine with the current naze center plate, just need the right set of standoffs/bolts.

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