- I've added a short installation guide at the end of this page (Post-Printing section). Note that this is just a reference as I can't take pictures of the process to make a proper guide anymore (my printer has been thoroughly modded and it can't be called "stock" anymore to serve as a reference).
- For the people who has upgraded from the stock cooling solution (using DiiiCooler, Cobra, Thorped, etc) you can try printing without supports at all for the B versions of the files. You can certainly bridge the IEC connector hole without any problem if your printer is properly calibrated and the part is well cooled. Give it a try if you want to save some material.
For the A versions, I would flip the model so it touches the build plate with the tabs where the fan mounts on. Again, know your machine and its capabilities before any attempt.
- Added a new full set of covers with the offset only on the top. These will be useful for those who don't want to use rubber feet under the PSU or just want to have the inclined plane on top (for any reason). They're based on v6, so they have all the previous corrections included. These are final versions too.
- Added new covers with power plug socket on the top.
UPDATE 05/29/16 FINAL VERSION:
- Added v5
Corrected fan mounts so M4 screw threads catch the plastic deeper.
- Added v4
People having trouble with supports falling off for the tabs on the inner corners can use this new version. It should use support only for the power connector socket and wiring loom hole. It uses more material but also reinforces corners a lot. Choose infill percentage wisely.
- Fixed power connector mounting holes (they're smaller now, M3x8mm screws or longer should work).
- Reinforced fan mounting corners and psu mounting tabs.
- Bigger fan mounting holes (should still be threaded when inserting fan screws).
- Print orientation: place the psu mounting tabs on the bed.
UPDATE 05/26/16: Added chamfers to tabs for additional strength.
This is an extended back cover for the Wanhao Duplicator i3 PSU (also rebranded as Monoprice Maker Select, Balco 3D Printer, Cocoon Create). This model allows you to use a 120mm fan instead of the noisy tiny internal one. The new fan will be mounted outside of the power supply, but it will be much more silent.
As this part extends up and down to accomodate the bigger sized fan, you will need to put some adhesive rubber feet under the PSU to lift it up a bit. It is about 5mm of extra length in those directions.
UPDATE: By popular request, I uploaded new "Offset" versions that have the inclined plane only on the top of the cover. These ones won't need rubber feet installed under the PSU.
I don't know if other versions of the printer have a different arrangement for the screw holes. This was designed for a v2.1 (v2 should be the same). Check compatibility for v1 and rebranded versions before printing.
I used for reference the models by jamesarm97 and shaiss.
There are 2 versions of these files.
The stock screws won't work for this part. Use M3x8mm or longer to attach the cover to your PSU case. Screw holes aren't countersunk (just counterbored), so choose screws with a flat top.
Fan holes are 15mm deep in model B. Use self-tapping screws to mount the fan from the outside. M4x40mm screws (if using a 25mm deep fan) work also.
If using model A, you can also thread the screws from the inside and secure the fan with a washer and a nut on the outside. Make sure you don't use model B if you're going that route.
Wanhao Duplicator i3 v2.1
Place the model with the PSU mounting tabs facing the build plate. Enable supports for the IEC connector/power switch plate, wiring loom slot, and for the 4 inner corners where the fan mounts on (if you print model A).
It's not a must, but I recommend using 3 shells/solid perimeters for the holes where the fan mounts on, so when threading the screws the plastic doesn't break.
I recommend the addition of a fan grill to protect your fingers from the spinning blades. It is one of the drawbacks of having the fan exposed instead of inside the case. Be careful!
Unplug the power cord from the wall socket and from the printer. Safety first!
Unscrew the 4 black Philips screws that hold the sheet metal back cover in place. Save them if you plan to reinstall the stock cover in the future (they are too short to work with this mod).
The cable loom going from the control box to the printer goes through a cut in the back plate and is held by a zip tie. Cut that zip tie to free the loom from the plate.
Disconnect the spade connectors going to the IEC power socket + switch combo. Notice the wire colors and location to reinstall them later in the correct position. Take a picture if necessary.
Disconnect the small fan from the power supply.
Unscrew the fasteners holding the socket/switch in place. You should be able to lift it off the plate (use a flat screwdriver as leverage if you need so to get it out).
Position the back cover and align it with the screw holes tapped in the case of the control box. Make sure the wire loom goes through the U-shaped cut-out provided.
Use M3x8mm or longer to attach the plate to the metal case.
Take the wires that were attached to the IEC connector/switch and guide them through the rectangular cutout provided (located on the top or sides, depending on the model you have printed). Re-attach the wires to the switch and screw it in back. You can reuse the stock screws that came with it (be gentle when doing this, you're threading into plastic).
Take your 120mm fan and use the +12v and GND wires to connect it to the psu. If your fan has a molex connector (3 or 4 pin) you should be able to just plug the cable in to the existing connector you left coming from the power supply.
You may want to use some electrical tape or a drop of hot glue to secure the connection.
Align the fan with the mounting holes of the printed cover. Use M4x40mm screws or self-tappers of similar length to secure the fan to the cover. Make sure to tidy all the cables up inside so they don't catch on the fan blades.
- Enjoy your silent printer!
For better cooling and further noise reduction, you can remove the 60mm fan and metal cover for the power supply unit.
PLEASE note that you should know what you're doing and, at least, leave the printer unplugged for 24 hours before doing anything so the capacitors inside can release their charge and not shock you.
To do this you have to completely disassemble the control box. Take off the screws holding the top of the control box in place (they're on the botton, several tiny black Philips screws). Once loose, slide the top of the control box forward. You will have the top and bottom part separated now.
In case you go ahead, the metal case is held in place by a couple of Philips screws. Undoing them should release the case and give you access to the insides of the power supply. Unplug the fan connector, make sure there are no cables in the way that impide airflow and you're done.
I'm not responsible if you get hurt doing this step. Use some common sense!