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Duplo compatible marble run system

by joachim67, published

Duplo compatible marble run system by joachim67 Oct 1, 2013

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Summary

My marble run system.
OpenScad file is available. (See instructions.)

My duplo-block-lib is an improved derivate from:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1778

Also see the marble pump add on:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:350349

Instructions

I recommend to print one piece for calibration and if it does not fit well have a look at the variables in the top of the duplo-block-lib.scad file and adjust them as needed.

The file duplo-marblerun.scad contains all parts as modules. In the top uncomment out the item to create. (In the OpenScad preferences you might have to increase the "Turn off rendering at ... elements" value, e.g. 1000000 or set a lower "quality"-variable.)

I printed everything without support.

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Do you know how much it will cost (-ish) when I print these out using 3Dhubs ?? It's for my nephews birthday :)

Prices at 3Dhubs vary, but expect 10-20 $ per piece. So that I don't recommend. If you can't print yourself better have a look at hubelino (as was mentioned by floville below).

Do you know how much it will cost (-ish) when I print these out using 3Dhubs ?? It's for my nephews birthday :)

Thank you for that thing. The kids will love it :-)
It's relatively easy to print, however the cylinders often detach while printing. I'm using raft now, as brim only works for outer perimeters.
What's still a bit of a problem ist, that in the lower part, where there is no infill (for obvious reasons) the part is shrinking and in the upper part, - due to the infill - has a wider dimensions. Any idea, how to fix that? I'm already using heavy cooling.

Since you didn't provide details (your kind of printer, material or settings) I can only say what I did. Originally I also had an Ultimaker (original), but because the print often detached I first started printing on glass using glue (see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6yx5kp7M7CE)
and later upgraded to a heated bed (but still using glue on the glass).
I also noted that transparent PLA doesn't stick as well as opaque PLA. (I didn't try ABS yet.)
Perhaps you can solve the shrinking in the upper part with less infill or perhaps you can try to reduce your nozzle temperature. (I use 220°C.)

Do you know this product: https://www.hubelino.de/en/Marble-Run/
It has a striking resemblance.

I wasn't aware of that. Very interesting. Basically the same idea.
I inquired at Hubelino and am now informed that their system is available since 2011.
So if you can't print yourself or don't want to print so many pieces you now have a choice.
(By the way: Youtube shows several Hubelino clips.)

These are wonderful!

Cool, i suggest adding some longer sections as .stls it is only 0.26Mb now. (like 2 by 8) or 2 by 4, but dropping twice the height. Suppose that is less modular though.

I've now added a "longRamp" and a "cosinusSlope".

Nice :)

For the record I dont mean to imply anyone should do anything in suggestions like these. I just blurt out ideas that i have.. (Frankly they're mostly trivial)

One idea is to put a V (or U) shaped slot at an angle and a bit of cartboard/paper(posssibly taped up to make it neater) the marble would run in the cartboard. Then it can span long distances. Another idea is that we kindah need a standard more suitable to 3dp and just make compatibility blocks :) Maybe i'll try that with the cardboard inserts idea.

I printed one without support, but that doesnt work for me(PLA) i think it might work better if i printed at lower temperatures. Maybe i should lower the speed so i dont need the higher temps.. (If only it could make bridges the same way as when it oozes :) ) .. Or just with support. Unfortunately the duplos seem to be stored behind a bunch of crap and i am too lazy to get one.

Yes, you could use paper or similar to make longer bridges.
Although when I watch my children play - they are quite content with very short tracks.

If you get better results with support, go ahead. For me it only was more work to remove the support and I got quite fine results without (using PLA on an Ultimaker with 220°C).

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