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One Piece Raspberry Pi Zero + Camera Case (with GPIO)

by Superrei, published

One Piece Raspberry Pi Zero + Camera Case (with GPIO) by Superrei May 29, 2016

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Thing Statistics

16362Views 4037Downloads Found in Electronics

Summary

Update 14/3/2017: It is quite sad to receiving some of your comments reporting parts fused together, but at the same time some other telling me they have no problem at all. I believe it all depends on how well your printer handle hanging and small gaps. The geometry of the hinge is really compact. Otherwise it will not go well with the baby Pi Zero and Pi Zero W.
Good news for those who had tried with problem. I added a "v2" version for the low profile case. I added extra clearance to the hinge geometry. Hopefully it would avoid parts fusing together when print with bigger nozzle size. If it works for your please post a make picture back to here. I really want to see it works (or not). Thanks.

Update 13/2/2017: I received comments suggested me to separate to model to 2 parts since the top and bottom fused together as it print. I have no idea if one can really assemble it if you print them separately, but I did it anyway and let you guys to have a try. Let me knows if it helps.

Update 2: The GPIO version is here. To fix the Pi Zero you'll need 4 x M2.6 screws that are 15mm long.

Update: The camera version is here! It hold both your Pi Zero and Camera together in a small box. It comes in 2 sub-versions. First one doesn't use any screw, but you may need some extra help to secure the Pi Zero in the position it suppose to be. In my case I use 2 rubber bands. The second one use 4 x M2.6 screws which are 12mm long.

My first Raspberry Pi Zero case. Support the new version that comes with a camera port. It can be printed in one piece and no assembly is required. This is a low profile version. Which means it will only hold the PI Zero itself without any jumper and HAT on it. I'll publish more version later. So do follow this creation if you need bigger versions that can hold the GPIO jumpers, camera or even HAT.

Print Settings

Printer Brand:

CEL

Printer:

Robox

Rafts:

No

Supports:

No

Resolution:

Medium

Infill:

30%


Notes:

Material: No limitation I suppose.

How I Designed This

FreeCAD screen capture

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Any chance of sharing the scad file (or equivalent?)

File format of FreeCad is ".fcstd". You want them?

yes please

Just uploaded a couple of the source files. Check them out.

Printed one of these on my Anet A8, the hinge worked perfect for me. Is this case supposed to latch shut though? Or is it just supposed to be loose? Cause mine doesn't hold the lid when shut.

It suppose to be a bit loose. Though it should be tight enough so it won't open if you hold it "up side down". Also if you print it with PLA, the latch may open more easily since the material provide less friction. Which one you have print?

Yeah I printed it using PLA.

I have a suggestion for the versions of your case that don't use screws to hold the Pi Zero. Instead of using rubber bands, on the top of the case, couldn't you add some circular posts with hollow centers to your design, so that when the case is closed, these posts fit up against the top of the Pi, holding it in place? (When I say the "top" of the case, I mean the side that doesn't have the camera hole in it - for the camera case - but does have the GPIO hole in it - for the GPIO case.)

I'm going to print a number of your cases tomorrow with a Lulzbot 6 printer, and I'll let you know how they come out.

I'm not sure if that will work. Since the camera cable is quite stiff. Can your design avoid the Pi Zero from popping up when the case is open?

I see what you're saying, but isn't it more important for the Pi to be held securely when the case is closed? I figure you only want to open the case when you want to remove or rearrange the contents.

And your concern would only apply to a case WITH a camera. Wouldn't my solution work well for your low profile case or possibly for a future design with the GPIO pins but no camera?

I'm pretty new to 3D design, but I'll try to wrangle up something in the next couple of weeks. After I print the current versions of your cases tomorrow, so I can better observe how everything fits and whether the Lulzbot 6 printer I have access to can print your hinges
like Goldilocks wants them. :-)

I realy like your design!
Could you share the clearences?
I;ve printed all of them on my Flashforge Dreamer, I had to 'break' the halves of the first print. Afterwards I experimented with the print width, i'm using a 0.4mm nozzle and Simplpify3d, it allows me to adjust the amount of filament pushed through. With just minor adjustments all my prints look better and it prints perfectly in one go. I would like to know the clearances of the hinges as well as the part for future designs, can you share them?

Mar 13, 2017 - Modified Mar 13, 2017
Superrei - in reply to yuris

I use 0.5mm clearance. The hinge will become loose if it is too big, but the parts will fuse together if the value is too small.
I just get a PanTiltHat from Pimoroni. And I'm working on a housing solution on a Pi3 + PanTiltHat combo. Unfortunately my printer is not working so I need to send it back for repair. Hopefully you'll see my new design in a few weeks.

Ok, thanks!
If you need someone to test-print your design, just let me know.

Comments deleted.

I'm not sure where I'm going wrong, but this thing came out fuzed as one single piece. The hinges wouldn't close, and at best I got it to fold to about a 90 degree angle. Maybe this would be better if it was separated into 2 pieces.

I have the same problem. Would be nice if you could seperate the parts

Hi, do you mind send me a photo or short video on your print to let me see what happen?

Could you tweak the hinges to move the two halves further apart. My printer just printed the two halves as a single part. I would also suggest shrinking the size of the holes for the screws so they can be drilled and tapped M2.5

What nozzle diameter are you using? I'd recommend 0.4mm.

I was using a 0.4mm nozzle on an old worn out Ultimaker 2 but in the end, I just designed my own case based loosely on yours.

Great Job on the cases. I printed both the GPIO and Regular non-screw case on my Cube 3D at 50 Micron and they look nice. I was wondering if you could set one up a little taller for the new RedBear IoT pHAT or the Enviro pHAT that would mount on top of the GPIO? With the RedBear that would give wifi, bluetooth, the zero and a camera in one nice package. If you do, I would test print whatever you come up with. I have both.

Thanks again!
Chris.

Hi Chris,

How much clearance you need for the HAT? Any measurement?

Sadly I've lost the source. So you may need to wait a little longer as I may re-create the entire design from scratch, hopefully with some new improvement.

Regards,
Alex Hui

Oct 1, 2016 - Modified Oct 1, 2016

FYI: We'll use this as a case for running our Kerberos.io devices. Can we brand this with our logo?
More info on www.kerberos.io

Oct 5, 2016 - Modified Oct 5, 2016
Superrei - in reply to cedricve

I'll be glad if this design can help your project. Just leave a credit in your website. Feel free to get the stl files and add your logo on it.

Hi, great design :)
Do you plan to make a GPIO (+ camera as it is) version? Something like http://thingiverse-production-new.s3.amazonaws.com/renders/c4/81/d7/7e/7b/IMG_20151229_224109_preview_featured.jpg

Hi and thanks.

Yes I'm planning to make a GPIO version. Hopefully you may see it here in 1 or 2 weeks. The last camera version took me almost 10 trial prints before I get a satisfy result. So the new one would take me some time.

Thank you,
Probably I'll make a remix of it earlier.
It is a simple mod, not like camera support that is much more complicated.

Silvio

Well I'm almost done. I'll start trial printing tomorrow. The GPIO jumper take up more space than I expect. The thickness of the whole thing will go up to 24mm.

Jun 9, 2016 - Modified Jun 9, 2016
tnw513 - in reply to Superrei

Ah, I see this comment just now.
I've just made a simple remix. Only a cut in the top part of the case. Printing now..

Thanks

Now you see why. :)

Unfortunately I cannot print well any of your case with my 3d printer.
I've tested camera version and my remix and in both I broke plastic pins.
Pins that holds the camera tiny and fragile.

Yes, those pins really push your printer nozzle to the limit. The best record my printer ever made is something slightly bigger than 1mm diameter. Actually the camera holder was copied from another design. You can find many Pi camera mount in Thingiverse which use the 4 holes without using screws. So I believer that are a good load of printers out there can print the pins without much problem.

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