Working Stargate Mk2

by Glitch Jun 2, 2016
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This question is sort of covered but I was hoping to get a bit more of a specific demo or guide in mind. How do you get the small SMD LEDs wired up? I'm aware it will need soldering to work, it's more a case of how with it being so small and also how is it best to then secure? I see a mix of reviews suggesting glueing it or using a custom mount (the snag being is the custom mount is for a larger LED than the one recommended by Glitch himself).

I have got all the parts and also printed the various parts, even spent a bit more for a local 3D printer company to print the chevron parts for the lights in clear resin. It does, however, look like I will need a PCB to sort out all the resistors and accommodate for all the wires to be terminated. That being said I would like to get it wired up using a breadboard before committing to the final wiring and fitting.

What I'm struggling to figure out is the best way to wire the tiny LEDs for testing, how did those who's done it before manage to do it?

Just for the record, I've included photos of all the electrical parts and also the wiring diagrams / document mentioned.

You might want to get some copper tape, get a piece of paper, add 2 strips of tape to it, so you can place the led on it and the pads make contact with the two tape strips, then use clear scotch tape and glue the led in place, then you can do the same with jumper wires, or preferably with some alligator clips that are connected to wires on the breadboard.

Excellent suggestion, thank you for that WarDrake.

How would you recommend wiring it all up? Have you got a PCB board design used for the through the hole components? I've not much experience with electronics, so when it comes to making a PCB board from the electrical diagram I'm out of my depth. However, I have downloaded Eagle and trying to piece it all together

My wiring is completely different as I changed the whole base for this and am gonna connect it to google as a smart device.
unfortunately my computer died 2 days ago, so I have nothing to show you for it but look through the remixes, there's some more examples in there of how other people wired it all up.

Good luck.

Hello, I will need a schematic to wire the entire engine and other because I can't find it thanks

Hi Glitch,very like you model,but the wiring diagram is very fuzzy. I can't see it clearly. Could you help me?thank you!

For anyone looking for this - there is a PDF version of Glitch's site - http://www.glitch.org.uk/circuit-diagram/

Hey guy, i am trying to get all the components together however i am having trouble finding the 10.2 Ohms resistor (10R2). Anyone got an online store link? would prefer Australia but at this point as long as they will deliver. TIA

Unbelievable !!!!
Amazing work dude!!!! You just messed with my childhood now !!!

Do you have models for big printers? maybe would be possible to print the circle at one time... I have a Tevo Tornado that prints 30x30cm

MK2 runtime (12V1ADC power supply) + USB works fine, however, pull out USB, Chevron to group 4, arduino reset, why?

I would guess power related. If you start it up with only power does it run normally? Might be worth a visit to the Arduino forums.

In the circuit diagram you provided,Why is the transistor B pin not connected to the resistor?

When only the power supply is running, the ARDUNO board will be reset when the LED lights are sequentially lit.

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How big is the biggest piece on a 100% scale?

The base is the single largest item at 160mm width x 225mm length x 90mm height

Dammm, my printer can only have a 100x100x100 printspace and need 10mm for a brim. So I have only 80x80x100

Just finished printing the back side of the gate along with the track for the symbols. This is a stunning model and the detail is first class. Have ordered the electrics as per the list; scared as I'm a newbie to something this advanced, but will give it my best. If anybody does have any images of their actual wiring set up please feel free to share. It would really really help to see images of the electrics at play. Glitch, can't thank you enough for this. Have always wanted a model stargate and now I can. Here's hoping you release the Atlantis gate in the near future aswell ;)

An Atlantis Gate should be easier because the smbols don´t move.

Mechanically simpler yes. Electrically not so much. This Mk2 gate has 35 LED's. The Atlantis gate has about 120 LED's.

WOW! I'm just gaoing to be starting out in 3D printing - just got printer. I have to say that I would very much like to build this as it is simply amazing.

Add a working DHD model and make it standalone and you will have stargate fans knocking down your door to get one!

I'm very impressed. Keep up the good works.

hi, is it possible to have the pieces in one piece of each circle, to print in one piece?

I've uploaded the single gate parts

The gate was designed from the beginning to be printed in segments with gaps between each piece for tolerance. There isn't a single model to give you, but I'll add it to the to do list.

I'm probably an idiot but where do I print those connector pins shown in the video putting the base halves together, etc.?

Those pins are M3 screws with a nut to hold the model tight. Depending on your print settings you may want to drop to a smaller size if you find the M3's split the plastic.

Right. Thanks. I did figure that out (eventually) and felt like an idiot. Great design and I'm looking forward to finishing this amazing project.

I finally completed my build of this gate and I just wanted to say I'm so happy you spent the time and effort making this model. It must have taken absolutely ages to get it to this standard with more than a few wasted prints... Merely putting it together when all the design work is 'complete' takes long enough! I even managed to mess up one gate and had to print out a whole new one for it to work 'just so'.

The detail is what makes this Stargate so impressive, I really, really like all of the detail on the gate itself. If I had any critiques it would be in the ramp, there could be a few more screw points to keep everything lined up. I suspect the lack of screws is partly because you had the ramp assembled and disassembled so much during development that you didn't want even more fasteners slowing things down. I know I had the ramp open for quite a bit while messing with the electronics. Other than that, just seeing the model on display is so very enjoyable.

I can't wait for the new Atlantis model. The preview videos look fantastic, I dare say the new model might make this one look almost 'normal'. Please don't lose the will to complete it, we've got to see the Atlanstic gate working too!

Anyway I've added my build to the list of makes and I hope you like it as much as I do: https://www.thingiverse.com/make:495159

Quick edit: Forgot to mention. I've added some customisations to code and a custom board. I've attributed you on the silkscreen and in the Github Repo. I hope that's enough, but let me know if you want anything specific added.

Working Stargate Mk2
by boogle

Looks good. You've put a lot of detail into the documentation of your build.

Yes the Atlantis gate is still on my to do list.

For some reason, mine is restarting halfway through a gate address...no matter which one I choose, or if I use the dial vs calibrate/dial. Any ideas?

The most common causes of a reboot are low power and memory overflow. If it is always restarting after the same number of movements, I'd expect a memory issue. Which Arduino are you using, and have you made any changes to the code?

Its an Elegoo Uno R3 (https://goo.gl/8Za5Bj). The only change to the code I made was changing the dial method on the Full calibration and dial, from only dial to calibrate first. Other than that, I didn't do anything.

I got it working, found one part of code that was set wrong. So, it's dialing now, but only part of an address then starts over.

i was figured out if some had problems printing chevrons brecause for me it is a mess to print in pla. it is ugly as possible it is not clean. can someone give me his printing properties on cura 3.xx please

I sent mine to shapeways, printing them in ultra detailed frosted acrylic. They turned out amazing.

I can't get this thing to work as per the provided instructions. I hope you guys have better luck. I've only seen one other made, and he had to do it completely different.

I got the parts printed and I started the assembly. I think I got all the parts for the electronics but I am a bit at a loss. I need some help with the electronics as it is my first time. Does anyone have any good pictures and step by step instructions for a real newbie? If not, i guess I will have to do it by brute force :)

Glitch, or someone who knows...I'm having problems with the stepper motors. In the code it has both of them connected to M1 & M2 on the stepper shield...mine isn't working when you do that. I figure I'm misunderstanding, but I need to get this done for a buddy in the next couple weeks.

The stepper motors are connecting as per Adafruit's documentation for the motor shield. https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-motor-shield-v2-for-arduino/using-stepper-motors

The comments in the code are incorrect. The Stepper motor for the chevron is connected to port 1 (M1 & M2). The gate is connected to port 2 (M3 & M4).

This looks amazing, and I've been working on a print on and off for a while now. I'm a bit rusty on Arduino, so I'm a bit confused on the Sketch's chevron order of "int Chevrons[] = {5,6,7,10,2,3,8,11,4};"

Is the order the order the pins will light up when doing a dialing sequence? What about the order on the wiring diagram? How do they correspond to the actual 3D printed ring?

Edit: I just got an answer in the build video for the pin number. I'm guessing the commented out lines in the sketch (swapping pin 11 and 9) were to accommodate the planned pins with the actual pins post assembly.


The code assumes the LED's for the chevrons are electrically wired up in a clockwise direction. You then populate the Chevrons[] array in the order you want the chevrons to light up during dialling.

Pins 10 and 11 are out of sequence because I used pins 0 and 1 in the prototype not realising they are needed for USB communication. Rather than rewire the entire LED sequence, I just moved the first two LED's. Note to self: do not solder wires directly to the Arduino!

Thanks for the clarification. I used the extra electronics mounting to attach a breadboard that came with my Arduino kit. I probably should have used extensions for the pins on the Arduino, but instead soldered wires to them, and attached them to the breadboard so I could more easily fix screw ups. The negative is, I would accidentally disconnect some wires while fiddling around.

I'll post an "I made one" when I'm completely done.

Meanwhile, I've been making some "mod parts" to your design - specifically for mounting and fitting the LEDs and other components I ended up getting. Shots of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2795518

Mod Parts for Glitch's Stargate Mk2

I've got the majority of the parts printed and the back assembled to the center track... before I go any further with glue - can some explain to me where the wires for the LEDs route around the ring?

Nevermind... I figured it out :). Another ring to print.


I have a spare Ardunio, but it's the big one, not the UNO. Are you able to add the Uno pinouts or pin numbers to your diagram so I can match them up correctly? There are 28 Digital pins on the Uno, but I don't know which way round you have them on your diagram.


The code uses digital pins 2 to 12 and analogue pin 0 for the calibration ldr.

So I am going to use neopixel minis for this. Has anyone played with coding for neopixels with this? I am still learning C+ so I can alter the code as needed, and I am wondering if it is better to use the same wiring diagram, and just alter the code to change the color and brightness of the neopixels to my desire or to wire the neopixels in series and alter the code to call upon the lights as needed.

I would save time wiring if it was done in series, but from my rudimentary understanding of C+ I would essentially have to rewrite the code from scratch for the lighting. If I keep the wiring diagram as it currently is I just need to add the parameters for each pin to alter the lighting as needed. Thoughts?

I would wire the base and gate as two separate neopixel circuits.

The Atlantis gate uses 27 neopixels for the chevrons. They are wired starting from bottom left (looking at the gate) with three pixels for each chevron. Both gates use a different dialling program. But I should be able to put something together for the Mk2 gate.

Well that would be amazing! I love the neopixels, but the coding is my big challenge. I am still learning, and will continue to do so. If you get around to doing it it will save me time, and give me a good learning template for future projects. Otherwise I will post it once I get to the proper skill level.

On a side note, I am starting to play with altering the DHD model and configuring a way to use tactile buttons as inputs. I am still way off, as it is just in the rough concept phase, but a working DHD needs to be made to go with this. Thanks as always Glitch!

Ugh, after going over the DHD files here I may need to make my own. The current options are not friendly enough to alter for setting up as inputs with LEDs. Add it to the list i guess. I will get on it after I nail down the neopixels for the gate.

I justify the lack of the DHD with the fact the Earth gate didn't have one on the show. And the Earth gate is the one that spins.

I am scraping going the neopixel route. I tried using the minis on the PCB but they are to large to fit where the top chevron assembly goes. I also tried soldering the mini 3535 but my soldering skills are not good enough for terminals that small.

I am going with the original LEDs Glitch used and will spend my time making a working DHD to go along with this. RGB lights sounded nice in theory, but I just lack the skill and experience to make the adjustments needed.

Does anyone have a source or equivalent for the Broadcom ASMT-YWB1-NGJB2 that ships to the US? None of the resellers seem to ship to us over here :(

Sorry for being a complete noob but how do you start the sequence?

Regards, Jesper

Both Arduino scripts are configured to dial the Abydos address by default. All you'll need to change are the pin outs to correspond to the correct led's.


Only the electronics left! have all components but does anyone have some pics of the wiring of the motors, ldr etc?
It would be of great help to get some pics.

Thanks and this work is an amazing peace of art!!!!!!!

The motors are wired according to the Adafruit Motor Shield. If you've used a different shield you'll need to refer to the documentation for that specific product. There is a circuit diagram for the wiring of other components on my website.



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Glitch, just so ya know man, this project is what made me get into 3D printing. I have been at it for about six months, learned how to use my machine, bought a second machine, and learned how to troubleshoot everything with my machine, just so I can print this. I even learned how to use arduino technology, rasberry pi, LED lighting, soldering, the whole 9 yards, for this. I just got my dedicated roll of filament, and I am starting the print. Now comes the hardest part, finding a place to put it when I am done! Thank you!

Which Arduino did you use? I'm a complete noob to all this, so I'm not sure. I went to Arduino.cc and saw about 20 different boards lol. Also, I looked at your diagram, but couldn't find the info...what specific transistor do I need? Thanks for your help.

I used an arduino uno. The transistors are listed in the model description. BC548 NPN transistor.


Really really nice work!!!!
Im making this for my friend as a birthdaygift now and all parts has been printed and everything mounted except for the leds and electronics so far. I wonder if there is someone that has some pictures of how you soldered the leds in the chevrons and so on? The leds are really small and i wonder if you put it on a pcb or just cables?

Thanks in advance!

/Jesper , Sweden

The led's inside the gate are soldered in series directly to wires. It can be a challenge to solder small parts. The resistors and transistors are mounted on a pcb inside the base. There is a circuit diagram on my website showing how I wired up the electronics.

First of all, thanks for sharing this great project!!
I'm currently printing the parts and preparing the electronic components in order to have all parts as soon as I finish printing.

I just have one simple question: are the resistor supposed to be CMS or not?
What about the gauge of the wire you used?


Standard off the shelf components should be fine. We're not talking high precision, just enough resistance to bring the power down for the LED's. I used average through hole resistors and a multi colour ribbon cable.

Thanks for you quick answer :)
Soon, I hope, I will post pictures of my gate :)

I adore this, and I've been making a smaller-scale version with just the moveable track. But there is a problem that nags at the perfectionist in me - because of the way the gate_2 pieces are staggered with the gate_1 pieces, the little spikes on the chevrons are mis-aligned. Looking in Blender shows that the gate_2 pieces are slightly too long/large to align properly. This results in a mismatch on the second 'layer' of the outer ring.

Hi Glitch, I love your model and I have started printing it but I have ran in to an issue that I can't seem to find any comments for which makes me think I may have done something wrong. My printer has a build platform of 200mm x 200mm x 200mm, and the files 'base_l_2_x1' and 'base_r_2_x1' won't fit in that build platform.

Everything else does fit and I notice that base itself was split in to 2 so it could fit on a standard 200x200 platform, what have I done wrong?

Does the software load the file but won't slice? I would check the actual bed dimensions in your software. If your bed actual dimensions are 200x200x200 then the printable area will be somewhat smaller than that.

Question about the electronics. Did you use three LED's to light the chevrons? Was one not bright enough? What kind of circuit board did you use and did you mount all the resistors to it? I know nothing about electronics but am very close to completing this project. Any advice will help.

I have some problems with resulting rings. Ring with all the symbols does not enter on it's place, too big. Is there any documentet design with dimensioning?


Auto-answer. Reply from Glitch is below, on LeoTheDovahkiin (and mine) comments.


As far as the electronic components, you are using 30 V 1 A transistors. Can I substitute 25 V 1 A transistors?



You'll need to check the specs in the data sheet to see if you need to change any resistor values.

This is awesome I'm going to make one.

I'm not going to use Nema 17's though they are way too powerful for something like this.This motor: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10551 should be sufficient. I will use an Arduino Micro or Leonardo (20 io pins) and do away with a stepper driver. I'm also going to integrate a soundboard. One or two pins should be enough to trigger it with the same sounds in a loop (ie the nine chevrons, wheel turning and the "opening" sound).

Hey glitch when building this the gate pieces don't form a perfect circle, i was thinking to do a support circle to align them when gluing them but i don't know the diameter of the inner circle of the gate. Could you tell me this measurement please?

Same problem here. Circle with all symbols does not enter on it's place, too big. Is there any documentet design with dimensioning?

The inner radius is approx 163mm. However the gate pieces are staggered to provide support.

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Thanks, I see the staggered feature. Good work!
My problem is that chevron geared circle does not fit in his place. Seems to be with the radius larger than needed.
Once printed and glued it's largen than needed.

I've to investigate on this.

I printed symbols gear at 99,34% of original dimension because resulting gear didn't fit inside. Now it seems to be all OK.

This model is amazing and I am going to make one. I have already ordered most of the parts but I can't find certain ones.
Could you please share your print settings and a link on where you bought the:
27 x Kingbright KPT-1608SECK 2.1V 20mA
8 x Broadcom ASMT-YWB1-NGJB2 - 3.2V 60mA
1 x Lumex SLX-LX5093UWC/C - 3.4V 23mA

I found and ordered everything else but the parts above I can't seem to find in the US. I found one online site but it was for Israel.

I bought the components from http://uk.farnell.com
In the US you could use http://www.newark.com or https://www.digikey.com

You don't have to use the exact same components. If you're unsure then look at the data sheet on the UK site and search for similar components on the US sites.

If you can't find the same voltage/amps you'll need to calculate the resistors. There are a lot of resources online to help you work it out. I've provided the volts, amps and resistors in the description. Try these figures in online calculators to get the same results. You can then adjust the values based on the components available to you.

Thank you very much for the info and a huge thanks for this model. I have loved Stargate since I was a kid and seen every movie/episode of all 3 shows.

I'm going to add sound to this when I'm done with it. Also, I want to find a way to make the actual portal... that is going to be a challenge. lol

Hi everybody!

As anyone managed to get the rc servo working properly on this one? I am struggling to get things correctly, like the original position when connected. It seemed to me a good idea at the beginning but now I'm a bit disappointed. Any help would be appreciated.

I've not used a servo. Is the problem software or mechanical?

Hi Glitch, it's solved. It was a software issue. I'm not a programmer and I don't really know much about C programming but I managed to solve the problem, which in fact wasn't one. I just mixed some code and now it all works great with the servo. Just have to print a new symbol gear and test it again. MY big issue is still glueing all parts. I can't find a decent and affordable glue here in Portugal that can glue PLA decently. I know that there is somewhere a shop that sells it, but I don't have one where I live. But it's in a good way and I'll just add a DHD that I saw here and put the start button on there. Once again, thank you for your great job with this one. :)

And I have begun printing.

Glitch. You better not come out with some badass Mk3 after I've already printed Mk1 and Mk2!!

Didn't you see my website? I have one with blue lights... ;)

Is the hole in Pisces on symbol_3 intentional?

Yes the hole is intentional. It's used to calibrate the gate.

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I just bought a new CNC router with a build area more than big enough to machine this stargate from one piece. I'm almost done with the 3d printed version and I like it so much that I'd like to build it from a solid plate of aluminum or possibly plastic.

I was wondering if you could provide the source files for the gate parts, not the ramp just the gate itself. I have Autodesk Inventor but its very difficult to work directly with STL files (not impossible just difficult).



The gate was designed as a segment and cloned to form a circle. There is no single model of the entire gate. The source has the same tolerance gap as the stl files.

Nice work. And thank you very much for your effort! My parts are beeing printed right now. But I have some issues, when it comes to the chevrons. The Chevron b and c from both of the choices 2 and 3 are huge, when I want to slice them with Slic3er. Has anyone else the same issue? Or @ glitch: do you have any idea, why this happens?

I've uploaded new versions of the chevron 2/3 b&c files. Please see if these fix your issue.

damned the ramp makes no sens at all but this project is just amazing, and nice documentation dude

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I noticed that the actual gate (the rotating part with the symbols and gear teeth) is not included in this download.

Do I need to download those parts from this link (Carasibana Stargate)?


I just want to be absolutely sure that the parts from that link will fit since the description says "Note: The model is slightly larger than the Working Stargate Mk1".

On a different note,

Other than that great job, this is an excellent model! I was even thinking of adding on to it in the future. The earth Stargate had smoke around it when dialing so I was thinking of adding an ultrasonic mister and blower fan into the base, then adding miniature ducting to pump smoke to the chevrons. I was also thinking of making a thin transparent circle (2 pieces, sealed to make a tank). Then it would be filled with a clear viscous (oil like) liquid that fluoresces a bright blue under UV light (integrated leds in the tank would provide the UV), and then I'd also have a small wave maker (motor/paddle) built in to simulate the wormhole surface. I think the mist is doable but I'm not too sure about the wormhole simulation, I guess its worth a try!

I didn't know about ultrasonic misters until recently so in case you haven't read about them here's a link to one that I think would be suitable.


Thanks a lot!


Working Stargate with Arduino Control

Just a quick point of interest, great idea with the ultrasonic mister but I have one of these units and keep in mind that they require water to work. From my experience with a few simple water display projects after a few minutes these units will leave quite a lot of water around them wherever the mist is, so I would imagine this would not be good for motors and electronics (it would look great though) maybe it could be done with some kind of heating element and oil. I remember a while back you could get toy trains that had smoke come out of the stack and there was a little hole that had a note next to it saying something along the lines of "Place 1 to 2 drops of oil here". As to the wormhole simulation....sounds like a lot of work... However I did think that maybe an automated iris might be an upgrade option, I have found a few designs and will look into this when I finish my gate. If I come up with anything I will be sure to share it :-)
Cheers Strahany

The gear ring is included. Look for 'symbol_?_x1.stl' files. Unless you are customising it you should download all the parts from this model rather than mix with other models.

With relation to the size difference. The mk2 gate is thicker than the mk1 making the base specific to each model. The gear assembly itself is the same size in both models. Although the mk2 gear includes a fix to one of the teeth.

Ah thanks, I downloaded the entire zip and for whatever reason I completely overlooked those files. I was looking for many smaller pieces like in the original download but this will work since I have a large print bed.


Hey glitch, you have done a fantastic job with this ! thank you so much for sharing with us!

but because i am a 3d printing noob (wife got me a Afinibot I3 for Xmas) I have a quick question:
What kind of bonding agent (glue) is being used if any at all.... (im printing in Silver MeltInk3D PLA)

Back Story:
I have just finished printing "gate_1_a_x8" and "gate_1_b_x1" I am now working on "gate_2_a_x8" these part fit together pretty well after minor post print cleaning. however they will NOT stay together on their own. I not sure if they are to be glued or if parts i have not yet printed will "clamp" things together...

I use Loctite Super Glue All Plastics. I find after a short while the cap glues shut. It comes in small tubes so be sure you want to use it all. Bit of a pain if you only intend to use a small amount.


THANKS, I'll go get some loctite then. I'm realy looking forward to this!

Again thanks for sharing your hard work with everyone.

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The latest Stargate spinoff - Stargate Thingiverse
Epic - Great work!

I am mesmerized simply by the instructions for putting it together...GREAT job on this project

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Hi Glitch i am planning to print out the stargate but i was wondering What Arduino does it use?

(Nevermind just realized that you put links into one of the comments)

Starting build today! This is a fantastic design and the construction video is really nicely put together. Thanks Glitch - you have CAD superpowers

Using Repetier, it tells me Gate 1 a and Gate 2 a are non manifold (among other parts). When I slice them the chevron disappears. I tried fixing them at makeprintable.com but that does something wonky to it. It makes it thicker, the details aren't as profound, and the tab and tab slot on the sides don't fit together anymore. Any ideas on what could be happening?

Thank you so much for posting this by the way, it's quite incredible.

I've not used Repetier or makeprintable so I can't comment specifically at the moment. I have just tried them again in the Makebot software and they work ok. If I get chance I'll download the Repetier application on another PC (don't want to break my existing setup) and have a look.

Hi Glitch, I'm printing the parts and some of them are not slicing well. I'm using Slic3r and it reports a lot of errors and some prints come without some parts. Can you help me out on this one?

I tried to run them through Tinkercad to try to fix the non manifold erros but some parts upload with 541kb and the exit part has only 71kb(?).

PS- After reading the comment above I noticed that I have the same issue. Now I'm stuck. :(

I've tried one of the base side panels in slic3r and yes I agree it doesn't work correctly. The same file works fine in the Makerbot software as does importing the stl back into 3d modeller.

Some testing over the last few hours suggests either a bug in slic3r, or it's just interpreting the data in a different way. When I exported a model that looked broken in the 3d modeller it worked ok in slic3r. Although the same file didn't work in the Makerbot software. I will have to play around the data and see if I can get better results.

The difference in file size is just down to binary or ascii format.

In the mean time, I've tried to slice it with the Makerbot Desktop but the exit file is something I don't have an interpreter, so I moved on to Cura and that seemed to work, although when printing the gate_1_a_8x one of the "broken" ones, it takes an eternity to print because I'm not familiar with Cura. Another thing I've noticed is that, part ring_7 has to be laid with the two pins down so that the print is made with the slot upwards to be well defined so that one can insert the other part fine. The problem is when we turn it upwards one flat part of the piece is not that flat and when slicing it stays above the print bed. Is that intentional or was it an error from me or maybe when designing ?

I've uploaded new files if you would like to try again.

I think that by mistake, you've uploaded the new stl files but not the Arduino files. I've downloaded the new ones and noticed that they were missing.

Yes you're right. Now uploaded.

Hi Glitch, thank you for your attention. Already downloaded the new files. As I mentioned before, I've managed to make them print by using Cura to codify the parts. At this moment it's printed at, let's say, 50 to 60 %. I'm planing to use some 5050 smd Neopixels in order to reduce the amount of wires, as Carasibana did on his version, and if all goes well, maybe I can put all three LEDs per chevron. They're only 5mm square and by the first caliper tests, they might fit. Wiring them in order to light them in threes it's another story. As for the ramp lights, I'll be using strip LEDs because that's what I have and I'll be using a side board to power them up by means of 5V relays, connected to the 12V rail. For the moving chevron I'm planning to use a RC servo because I think a stepper is too much just for 10 to 15 degrees of movement. As I'm not that good, if any good, at coding, what I'm doing is just a mash up of your code with Carasibana's code. He has the neopixels and you have the moving chevron and the ramp lights, so I just mix them together and added something else. ;) I'm anxious to show you of the gate in action. Thank you for sharing this extremely nice project. It makes me want to learn even more! ;)

Looking forward to seeing your build. Have you thought of the mini NeoPixel? They are only 3.5mm.


The motor brackets are additional to the base. So you'll only need to design a bracket for your servo. I thought that would be easier for people rather than expecting everyone to modify the base for different size motors. You could then upload your bracket for others to take advantage of.

I've uploaded my circuit diagram for reference. The LED's are all running off the 12v rail. I opted for transistors to switch the LEDs.

I've already built the Carasibana version of your first Stargate, and he uses the big 5mm neopixels and it looks good, so it's just a matter of adding more LEDs to the build. As for the bracket, I did followed what you suggest and altered the motor mount to use the servo instead. Just needs some minor details and if all goes well, I'll upload as a remix. I'm not that versant in coding but I have will enough to try and find out how it works so that I can mix parts of your code with some from Carasibana, as well as with servo example. Another thing I'll try to do is adding the calibration part of your code and use an IR LED-Phototransistor instead of the LED-LDR, because it's easier to get from old printers, which is where I get most of my components. Well, some of them, the most specific. One question, though, how do you suggest that we print the chevron 3_a ? I've already did a test print but didn't like the results.

I printed the chevron 3_a in high resolution and with supports. Then carefully remove the support material.

Hi there Glitch, I'm sorry but the chevron 3_a needs to be fixed. Still has the same problems. I've uploaded the servo mount so that everybody can use it.
Cheers and thank you once again.

Forget my last one. Wrong files. Tested new ones and all is ok. ;)

Glad it's all working.

This is pretty cool, is there a list of electronic parts available for the leds and motors and arduinos

Besides an Arduino. I used the Adafruit motor shield and 2 x NEMA 17 stepper motors. A parts list for the LED's, resistors and transistors can be found on my website.


thanks heaps

When I slice the Ramp_4_x1.stl it does not print it as you have the model shown. it has some manifold problem

I printed it using the Makerbot Desktop software. It took about five hours on standard resolution with a raft. I've just tested the file again with the Makerbot software. It print previews the file without any errors.

Thanks for checking out the model. I need to figure out why my slicer is making a weird model. I use simplify 3D.

Thanks for the mode, I am so excited to get it printed and assembled . I am almost done printing all the parts. I will spend this week asseembling it. I am using ABS so glueing the parts should be easy

I've uploaded two alternate ramp fronts for the base. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1992386

Working Stargate Mk2 alternate ramp front
by Glitch
Comments deleted.

This is amazing!!!! thanks for the model.
Do you happen to have a non cut gate, ring, rail and symbol? can I buy it from you?
I have a 24x24x24 inch build volume printer and want to print as much as I can in one piece.

What is the diameter of the finished gate?

The diameter is approximately 430mm with an overall height of 500mm

I'd like to know this too....and how well this could scale bigger.

have you ever thought about making a dhd top go with a gate? that be really cool, also how dose the gate know what symbol is where? or do you just set it at a starting point?

I have considered designing a DHD, but haven't found the time. There is a calibration point on the symbol ring which allows the Arduino to know its starting position. From there you can work out where each symbol is on the ring.

Which symbol is for the calibration? After I got put together up to the wire tracks, I realized that there wasn't a way for the light to shine through. I rotated the ring around several times, but couldn't see which one had the hole.

Yes! Input the address in the DHD and then the gate dials it,

Hi, Glitch, Would you mind providing a schematic, component list, and filament and colors you used for each part? Thanks again for the post, it is awesome!!!

Hello Jason, You can find details for the electronics on my website www.glitch.org.uk Please note I am not an expert in electronics, and my circuit may not be the ideal solution.

As for the filament. I used about one and a half of the 0.9kg spools. Although I was printing multiple versions of parts during the design phase. I used white filament as I didn't have grey. The pieces printed in transparent/natural are negligible.


Has anyone come across a print that would look good as the wormhole for this? Like a printed water pattern?

I've updated ZIP file with symbol_1_x1.stl to lay flat. The stl file is also available separately. If you're using the Makerbot software. There is an option to lay a model flat.

The hole in symbol_3_x1.stl is by design. It's how the calibration works.

@Glitch Also really keen in printing this and having the same issue as rwong56.

Are you able to fix up the symbol_1_x1.stl so it lays flat please.

@Glitch There is also a hole in one of the symbols on symbol_3_x1.stl which isn't breaking but prints odd.

Absolutely love this idea and I never thought I wanted a working stargate until now.

I am printing your Stargate. The symbol_1_x1.stl is not flat like the other symbols. Can you please check this part?

:( base is too big for lulzbot mini build platform. Even the halves.

Pretty cool though.

Amazing models, imagination and generosity to share. Many thanks, I'm building this. I built the last one, it was so cool.

Holy wow :O So glad I decided to wait a bit to do the Stargate for this version. 5 hours into first part. Hopefully have a "Made" by end off next week :D

It works well, I teleported my dog into another dimension!

stargate wormhole never could lead to another dimension if I remember correctly. It was only possible through the quantum mirror

Yep. It's a must for all Stargate fans to have their own gate :) You'll have to connect all the gates to the Internet so people can call each other ;)

Just imagine it with a screen behind it and connected to other Stargates by Skype. I know out there, are people capable of doing that, create a program that allows us to dial from a keyboard or DHD and making it go to a skype address, I guess. But that means it had to be, some how, connected to a computer or maybe a phone by bluetooth...

For me, after making the version from Carasibana, I'll make your Mk2 version but I'll try to use the Neopixels and a RC servo instead of a second stepper. But I'll give it some more TLC so that it doesn't get like the other one with a bad finishing and lots of gears noises. ;)

Awesome job once again! ... I'm going to have to build this version now as well aren't I ?