I am a home haunter -- one of those crazy people that go overboard decorating for Halloween in the same way other people do for Christmas. We go to great lengths to build elaborate DIY static props and animatronics. Now that I have a 3d printer, I'm looking for ways to use it for my haunt as I ramp up my construction.
One of the traditional animatronic props is the Flying Crank Ghost (FCG), a slowly bobbing and wafting ethereal figure that works similar to a marionette. We ultimately elected to build an Axworthy (a different animated prop) last year, so I didn't have time or funds to finish my FCG, but I did get started and I'm now revisiting the project. One of the things I learned a year ago was that trying to drill holes in the metal fender washer (the revolving part that the marionette's strings are attached to) was an exercise in frustration when you only have a hand drill and not much work space. It has occurred to me that it'd be much simpler to just print the part with the holes already present.
This part has obviously not yet been tested in an actual FCG, but I don't foresee any issues.
See Kick the Fog or the original design on Phantasmechanics for instructions on making your own Flying Crank Ghost.
Note: Various other parts -- like the rotating arm, the rope clamp, the carabiners, and the pulleys or some eye bolts -- may also make good candidates for printing if sufficiently well-engineered.
Maker Select v2 (Wanhao di3)
0.1 - 0.2 mm recommended, but not critical
Above 25% or so probably doesn't matter but I used 100%
Print in your choice of plastic. I used eSun Green PLA+ since its what I had in the printer. Regardless of plastic, black would be a better color choice if you have it handy (since you don't really want the mechanics of the FCG to be visible).
This part supports the weight of the marionette (spread amongst the three string holes), but that should not be an especially heavy load. The FCG is typically mounted under some sort of roof so it likely won't be exposed to much sunlight if it is installed for multiple days.
It is more important to have smooth rotation and avoid sharp edges cutting into the lines, and so I have rounded the string holes and edges. You may wish to print slowly (for quality on the holes) and do some light sanding on these parts after printing, but it shouldn't take much.
Support is probably not necessary unless you print in something like PETG that doesn't tolerate overhangs as well as PLA (the underside of the fillets are the only places it would ever matter)