Oops? Gen 4 Reset Fix

by jetty, published

Oops? Gen 4 Reset Fix by jetty Jan 19, 2012


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Has that happened to you?

When a bot is connected to a computer via USB, and the bot is powered on, the LCD on your Gen 4 Interface is corrupted or blank, requiring a press of the reset button to fix.

Don't wear out your reset button or fumble in the dark for that elusive button!

Instead solder a single wire to your V2.4 Motherboard and run V2.3 or higher of my firmware, then all your troubles will melt away.

As this isn't something you print, if you build it, please click on "I Made One" and submit a picture of your Gen 4 LCD Interface or soldering.


  1. Solder a piece of wire between ATX Pin 8 (Power OK - Colored Grey) and Arduino Mega Pin Analog 10 on the Motherboard. (Attached photos show where you need to solder the wire)

  2. Cover junctions with a piece of kapton tape to stop movement

  3. Install this firmware: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:15380

ATX pinout can be found here: http://pinouts.ru/Power/atxpower_pinout.shtml

Arduino Mega pinout can be found here: http://arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardMega2560 (it's labelled "Analog In - A10" on the board).

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What, exactly is your fix? I assume the new firmware reads the powergood signal and can then tell if the ATX supply has power cycled?

I get corrupted displays during operation, sometimes. Any idea what that might be?

By the way, thank you for the firmware upgrades.

Yes, that's what it does. The logic is, if the motherboard is running (i.e. in it's normal operating loop) and power good changes from off to on, then a reset is issued to the motherboard. So it won't effect things like firmware uploading etc.

Gosh, your motherboard has even more flux residue than mine did :( We need to save our old toothbrushes and buy some TechSpray for whoever is building 'em.

I was surprised when I got it. Specifically, I thought, "I could do a better job than that" :-). I don't if you've noticed, but there's something wrong with that solder, seems to have a higher than normal melting point and whatever it's contaminated with seems to cause issues with fixing the joint. Often I need to solder suck, then resolder.

Its Lead Free solder would be my guess... Adding the fresh solder also adds some flux to help. When i do rework on lead free stuff i grab my flux pen, give the points you need to desolder a dab of flux and set the desoldering iron a little higher, or if your using an old school spring loaded solder sucker then set your iron a bit hotter, 375-400C works best for me. Good old lead/tin solder you can run at 350C no problem but this lead free stuff is a pain in the butt.