Monoprice MP Select Mini E3D Hotend Adapter

by bbenchoff, published

Monoprice MP Select Mini E3D Hotend Adapter by bbenchoff Jun 11, 2016
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Main project link on hackaday.io

The Monoprice MP Select Mini is the best 3D printer for the money, with one problem: you can't buy replacement hotends. Hotends are consumables, and eventually the hotend on this $200 printer will break.

Right now, the solution to a broken hotend on this printer is to spend another $200 to buy another printer. Spending $200 to replace a hotend is absurd, and any company that does that will quickly go out of business.

The solution? A 3D printed hotend adapter for the E3D V6. This should be the first thing you print on the MP Select Mini.

The print has been tested, it works. You'll need some M3 nuts and M3 socket head screws (M3 x 20mm or thereabouts).

How I Designed This


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Any chance I could get someone to print this out for me?

What material should this be printed in

Would this work in abs?

Comments deleted.

so would petg be ok to print it in?

Comments deleted.

If you could flip the parts around so the two tall parts would be closer to each other it would speed up print time. Just a tip :) Thanks for the model!

Would it be possible for someone to make a dial indicator mount for this version?

question... in simplify3d when i go to preview mode it shows a hole/slot on the bottom of the big part where the nuts go. im guessing its because the nut cutout is so close to the wall that the slicer cant slice that close so it leaves a gap. can this be fixed or is this important? check out the pics i took here http://imgur.com/a/uFnT8

I printed this out using PLA. I'm pretty new. Just wondering, how much heat this is exposed to and wondering if it will hold up if exposed to higher "ABS" heat settings in the future.

It will not hold up even to the temperatures for PLA. Anything this close to the heater element should never be printed in PLA.

Does anyone know what is being used on the build plate in the picture above?

Hey, thanks for the mount!

I do have one question/issue... I am fairly new to 3d printing so i will describe this as best i can. With the E3D installed, my extruder has some "kickback", almost like its trying to push more filament through than the hotend/nozzle can handle. Is there a setting that i need to chance?


I just finished mounting mine yesterday, it works perfectly. I finally cut the adapter shorter to avoid changing the screws and removing the belt.
No issues so far, 3 prints since: flawless. There's no setting to adjust, the layer "ideal" thickness depend on the vertical axis resolution and the nozzle size. Try using multiples of 0.04375 mm for the thickness (not below 0.0875). I suppose your problem is in the heatsink or how you assembled it. Take a look at this video, it gives hints about what not to do when you assemble the heatsink:


The video is about cheap chinese clones but it's probably useful anyway.

P.S.: kickback = the "tac" noise? If so you're just printing your first layer too near to the printing surface (or a too thick first layer, say it as you prefer). Does it stop (or nearly) at the second layer?

hey! thanks for the video, I will definitely be checking that out when I get home from work today.

The kickback is constant throughout the entire build process. If I had to guess, I would say the extruder kicks (or skips, may be a better term) once a minute or two. After the kick/skip, the filament no longer comes out of the nozzle in a smooth solid line, it will be spotty for like an inch or so until the filament catches back up. The prints looks awesome with the E3d, minus the spots when the extruder experiences the kick/skip. I will attach a photo of what it looks like when I get home tonight.

****im not sure why the comment below this flagged. The video in that link is exactly what I am experiencing. Thank you!

I believe the skipping issue is caused the stepper driver shutting down. When the driver overheats it faults and shuts off power the pressure from the filament pins and then it recovers and repeats. Have a look at the second point of this guide, you will be able to see a video of the extruder kickback.

Thank you for the great design!

Connected everything but had to use 22mm screws vs 20mm. Read a thread about someone else having this issue but that isn't what concerns me. When I have everything screwed as tightly as I can(with out screwing through it) e3d v6 is still lose. I'm very new but would assume this can cause problems. Am I doing or not connecting things correctly?

Your issue isn't that your not doing things correctly. Did you calibrate your printer? No printer is ever truly accurate. If you printed a 20mm cube and measured it with digital calipers to determine if you need to scale up in certain directions to achieve a true print as close as possible in size. If you didn't then your honestly playing a crap shoot in print size when it comes to upgrading parts. This printer is my 4th printer and i got it cheap off a neighbor and have been upgrading using a printer that is calibrated correctly. This print if printed accurately is actually almost to tight for me. Had to give it a little tolerance to fit nicely.

I hope this helps you. If not leave a reply and I'll try and answer you as best to my ability or link a video that taught me.

I think I had that same issue, I ended up printing a similar model and used the smaller outer piece and it was much more snug. I just don't remember which one I used lol

Dang, well if you do happen to remember or find it please post it.. at this point I'm ordering prints cause mine won't lol

you could wrap the hotend around that throat in Teflon tape I'm sure that would fix it.

Worked like a charm thank you much!

good deal youll be printing in no time now. I'm going to remake this file eventually so keep a eye out for it in the future

Should it have 100% fill and is .2 layer height fine?

What print surface are you using?

I printed/installed last night. A couple things:

  1. As others noted, looks like Monoprice/Malyan modified the mount so that the adaptor doesn't quite fit right. You used an exacto to cut off 4-5mm off the bottom. It fits fine now. Looks like some others have remixed and created a new version of this that is shorter.

  2. I used M3 20mm screws and they didn't quite reach far enough to touch the nut. To fix it, I put the screw into the primary pieced (didn't use the small second piece/collar). I tightened to the nut and kept turning and the nut pulled into the print (since the PLA is soft). It deforms it a tiny bit but not big deal. The unscrewed and assembled normally. This pulled the nut in enough for the screw to grab it.

  3. As noted above, the hotend is now 1/2" forward from the previous hotend. Not sure if it can be adjusted. Or if it is a big deal.

  4. Got a new hotend for E3D and it is really nice. Haven't done a lot of prints but looks like rafts are cleaner, models a little smoother and haven't had any first layer issues.

Thanks for making this and the great info on hackaday.

Printed it out and using it. The nozzle is now offset forward about 1/2 inch so that "home" is on the bed adjustment screw. Any adjustment I can make to move it back?

Sorry for the stupid question, but will this fit both an E3D Lite 6 and a Full V6?

Ive got a spare Lite6 and id love to replace the stock hotend (even though it hasnt broke) love the printer for the cost, but the hotend/heatsink design is horrible :P (every other print results in a jam in the small ptfe tube )

I had a similar problem, turned out to be an issue with the fan. Make sure the fan is ALWAYS 100%, and not using any variable fan speed features. If there is inadequate cooling, the filament will melt too high in the heat brake, then jam... and the jams are really horrible nightmare jams.
I am assuming you know how bad the jams are, judging by your comment :P

After fixing it so my fan gets full 12v all the time, I successfully printed an 18 hour print.

can anyone specifically recommend where to buy the hotend itself? The ones from E3D are ridiculously expensive (Almost $80) vs. $17 on Amazon.

I see many clones on Amazon but not sure what to buy.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Preferably one that someone has actually used with this adapter.

If I ever wanted to use the hotend to print in ABS, what should I print the adapter in to avoid it melting itself >_< ?

You can print ABS on the stock MP mini hotend


Whenever I slice in Simplify3D, I get these holes at the sides for the next nut

Does this remove any of the build height of the printer?

Could you do me a big favor and link this to the MP Select Mini group collection of "Things"? It requires the creator to add it; I can't do it as creator of the group.

No, I don't agree with Makerbot, and was reluctant to put this on Thingiverse in the first place. This thing is only hosted on Thingiverse because I believe it is more useful to everyone than my distaste for Makerbot. While I am able to rationalize hosting this part on Thingiverse, I won't be contributing further to this community.

You are more than welcome to remix this thing (it's CC-By-SA) and put that remix in your list.

Alternatively, there are several other "Select Mini E3D adapters" on Thingiverse that are taken from my work without attribution. You might try asking them.

is the hotend an easy thing to replace?
my third printer is on it way to me. the first one stopped feeding filament..second one had the temperature sensor die.
Hopefully the third one lasts a little bit.

What model are you printing on that select ?

Cable chains. Something relating to the corexy D-bot

20mm Cable Chain Link w/reduced overhangs

I successfully printed this right before the print that broke the leads on my hot end temperature sensor, but the upper mounting holes on the larger piece don't line up with the holes on the smaller piece. Did the model somehow get broken in the most recent upload?

See pictures:

Did you have to modify the X carriage to use this adaptor? On mine there is a lip that sticks out on the lower part of it that is at the level of the two side pieces the original heatsink bottoms out on.

Bolts right in.

You may want to sand off some of the 'bottom' of the adapter. That might get in the way of the heater block. Otherwise, no, it bolts right in.

Thanks for the reply. I wonder if they made a running change and added the lip so the hot end assembly wasn't put together too low, forcing the bed leveling screws to need to be cranked down. I need to trim 5mm off the bottom of the adaptor for it to sit in the recess.

Mine has this lip too. I modified the scad file to remove about 5mm from the bottom and it now fits above the lip.

The bolt holes on the back are 5mm but the ones on the front are around 5.6mm and the nuts spin. Why is this?

No, they're not. The front and the back hex holes are designed for an M3 nut and are exactly the same size.

You can check this out with the OpenSCAD file. I don't know what's up with your printer, but both of those nut holes are exactly the same size.

Lol, Sorry your right. For some reason my printer made the lower nut holes smaller. Maybe my first layer height is too small and squishing out?

Will this work if printed in PLA? Or would it be too melty?

if it's melty, it's not just the mount that's messed up.

I'm having a tough time printing this with PLA. I'm a complete noob here, but I believe it has something to do with the retraction speed/amount; the printer's having trouble making the hop as noted in the image below:


I've taken your advice and gone ahead with printing one. I'm looking into going ahead and buying one of these E3D hotends, but not sure which one I need. I haven't measured the voltage to the heater to figure out if it is 12v or 24v. Looks like I don't need the bowden add-on. Is that correct?

It's a 12V heater cartridge. I'd get the bowden addon; it isn't expensive, and it's one of those parts you're going to lose anyway.

Have you encountered any wiring issues with your copy of this printer yet? mine has been horrible up until I checked every single end and found 3 broken wires. That is 3 from brand new

You should definitely contact Monoprice and use their warranty. If it's something that's happening during assembly or a design flaw, they need to know about it so it doesn't keep happening.

I informed them. They said they noted it. But Basically I would have to pay shipping to them and possibly back if they feel it wasn't their problem. I opted out of paying $20-30 shipping for a quick fix here and there. It's a sub $200 printer. I guess i can't expect greatness. If I haven't built one myself I wouldn't have known what the problems were and how to fix them. Still a decent printer for the cash. For small items and such.

Mine worked right out of the box. I managed to talk a couple of other people into getting one of these. Sorry to hear about your wiring issues.