Monoprice MP Select Mini E3D Hotend Adapter

by bbenchoff Jun 11, 2016
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

I noticed that you have your heater and thermistor wires on the left side of the heat block instead of the right. I think that I have to do the same. I changed to an e3d v6 hotend from gulfoast and the heatblock sticks out of the front of the hotend instead of the back. I am trying to find a clip on fan shroud for the e3d that as both hotend and parts cooling. The only ones that I found that work require that I turn the heatblock around so the wires come out the left.
Does this put anymore strain on the wires at the heat block? Im worried that it might,

Are you using any kind of fan shroud with this?

This looks like exactly what I need for my v6 upgrade. Thank you! What is recommended or suggested for the part cooling fan? The fan with the v6 appears to just be a heat sink fan and provides no part cooling. Is this correct? Thanks in advance for your help.

Note: I'm actually going to try and adapt this mount to work on my older Monoprice IIIP Mini. Its pre-Select and is also referred to as a Wanhao Duplicator I3 Mini etc, etc.

Comments deleted.

I have the V2 version of this Mini Select. The V2 is sometimes referred to as the "E3D edition" and described as having an "E3d-like" hot-end. Does this mean the V2 is compatible with the E3D v6 or v5 or is there a remix of this adaptor specifically for V2 machines?


I have the v3(Monoprice calls it the "Pro" version). As far as I can tell it has the same E3D style mount. It's definitely similar, but the heat break sticks out a quarter to a half inch from the heat sink. The MP one is significantly longer than the E3D V6.

Replacing the stock hotend and heatsink with a V6 clone I found on Amazon caused the gantry cover to crash into the bed before the nozzle got anywhere close.

Thanks, I was thinking it might be like that. I've head that the hotend is more of a V5 clone, but I doubt even that is a drop-in replacement. I hope to see a V6 adaptor for the V2 before the included one is spent.

Had to remove 5mm on the bottom side of the back piece for mine too, as I had the lip on the mount other iterations had on the Mono Mini. Printed in PETG @ 100% fill and it is rock solid and took my dead mini and a ten dollar E3D clone back into business. Added a nice fan housing with cooling for the part and this baby is back into gear. Nice part, thanks!

i noticed this doesnt have the tab in the back for the belt. does this matter (MPSM v2)

How do you get the belt off to reach the screws? I removed the tensioner but I can't figure out how to get the belt off. I'm afraid of breaking the tab that holds it in place.

Hello! I am a monoprice owner and have just upgraded my hot end, but, I ran into a couple snags and I wanted to see if you, too, had run into these (and if so, a possible solution). I got the firmware updated, etc., and yet when I start a print, it seems to begin, but, then kinda stops coming out / jamming. I am printing in PLA, and I am using the same settings as worked flawlessly with my stock hot end (205 nozzle, 55 heated bed). Once I cancel the print, its REALLY hard removing the tube out of the extruder top. The last time I did (and pulled the PLA through the tube), I noticed the end had gotten thicker... Almost like it heats, but, then stops, and so it jams). Did you run into that at all?

Also, I have another question (if you don't mind!!) after this one. In a nutshell, since upgrading, when I 'Home', the E3DV6 homes in the same place as the stock one did, but, about 3mm or so off the front end of the bed. I just wanted to know if there was a firmware command I could upload through Pronterface to offset this about 7MM, and save it as the 'new' default home. (i.e M206 X0 Y7 Z0). I had tried similar and then send M500, but, it didn't seem to work.. Anyway, I am currently mainly concerned about the jam after the print had started... Had you encountered something like that? THANK YOU!!!!


I had to zip tie my hot end to print this, but now I'm back up and running. Thanks!

I printed mine out in inland PETG and it seems to be working great so far, but I had the same problems other ppl here have - 20mm is too short for the m3 screws (but it seems to be holding together well anyway) and the piece is too tall to fit in the x carriage so i had to shave off a few mm from the bottom. I also had to shave some plastic off the sides to get it to fit in the carriage. Your blog post was a huge help though, since I had the idea that replacing the print head would be this arduous process but it's actually really easy (esp since i just re-used the stock thermistor and heat cartage), so thank you for that!

is it still holding up? :)

Just wondering if anyone has tried making this part out of aluminum, or if anyone can think of a reason not to. Cheers

man... I really should have printed this out before my hotend broke...
zip ties here we go! XDD

Order one printed. Fargo 3D printing and other companies have that so that you can replace parts.

Any chance I could get someone to print this out for me?

What material should this be printed in

Order one printed. I recommend Fargo 3D printing

ABS. I printed a couple in ABS and PLA, and PLA will eventually warp from the heat.

Would this work in abs?

Comments deleted.

so would petg be ok to print it in?

Comments deleted.

If you could flip the parts around so the two tall parts would be closer to each other it would speed up print time. Just a tip :) Thanks for the model!

Would it be possible for someone to make a dial indicator mount for this version?

question... in simplify3d when i go to preview mode it shows a hole/slot on the bottom of the big part where the nuts go. im guessing its because the nut cutout is so close to the wall that the slicer cant slice that close so it leaves a gap. can this be fixed or is this important? check out the pics i took here http://imgur.com/a/uFnT8

I printed this out using PLA. I'm pretty new. Just wondering, how much heat this is exposed to and wondering if it will hold up if exposed to higher "ABS" heat settings in the future.

Order one printed in Something hi-temp. It will be worth it.

It will not hold up even to the temperatures for PLA. Anything this close to the heater element should never be printed in PLA.

Does anyone know what is being used on the build plate in the picture above?

Hey, thanks for the mount!

I do have one question/issue... I am fairly new to 3d printing so i will describe this as best i can. With the E3D installed, my extruder has some "kickback", almost like its trying to push more filament through than the hotend/nozzle can handle. Is there a setting that i need to chance?


I just finished mounting mine yesterday, it works perfectly. I finally cut the adapter shorter to avoid changing the screws and removing the belt.
No issues so far, 3 prints since: flawless. There's no setting to adjust, the layer "ideal" thickness depend on the vertical axis resolution and the nozzle size. Try using multiples of 0.04375 mm for the thickness (not below 0.0875). I suppose your problem is in the heatsink or how you assembled it. Take a look at this video, it gives hints about what not to do when you assemble the heatsink:


The video is about cheap chinese clones but it's probably useful anyway.

P.S.: kickback = the "tac" noise? If so you're just printing your first layer too near to the printing surface (or a too thick first layer, say it as you prefer). Does it stop (or nearly) at the second layer?

hey! thanks for the video, I will definitely be checking that out when I get home from work today.

The kickback is constant throughout the entire build process. If I had to guess, I would say the extruder kicks (or skips, may be a better term) once a minute or two. After the kick/skip, the filament no longer comes out of the nozzle in a smooth solid line, it will be spotty for like an inch or so until the filament catches back up. The prints looks awesome with the E3d, minus the spots when the extruder experiences the kick/skip. I will attach a photo of what it looks like when I get home tonight.

****im not sure why the comment below this flagged. The video in that link is exactly what I am experiencing. Thank you!

I believe the skipping issue is caused the stepper driver shutting down. When the driver overheats it faults and shuts off power the pressure from the filament pins and then it recovers and repeats. Have a look at the second point of this guide, you will be able to see a video of the extruder kickback.

Thank you for the great design!

Connected everything but had to use 22mm screws vs 20mm. Read a thread about someone else having this issue but that isn't what concerns me. When I have everything screwed as tightly as I can(with out screwing through it) e3d v6 is still lose. I'm very new but would assume this can cause problems. Am I doing or not connecting things correctly?

Your issue isn't that your not doing things correctly. Did you calibrate your printer? No printer is ever truly accurate. If you printed a 20mm cube and measured it with digital calipers to determine if you need to scale up in certain directions to achieve a true print as close as possible in size. If you didn't then your honestly playing a crap shoot in print size when it comes to upgrading parts. This printer is my 4th printer and i got it cheap off a neighbor and have been upgrading using a printer that is calibrated correctly. This print if printed accurately is actually almost to tight for me. Had to give it a little tolerance to fit nicely.

I hope this helps you. If not leave a reply and I'll try and answer you as best to my ability or link a video that taught me.

I think I had that same issue, I ended up printing a similar model and used the smaller outer piece and it was much more snug. I just don't remember which one I used lol

Dang, well if you do happen to remember or find it please post it.. at this point I'm ordering prints cause mine won't lol

you could wrap the hotend around that throat in Teflon tape I'm sure that would fix it.

Worked like a charm thank you much!

good deal youll be printing in no time now. I'm going to remake this file eventually so keep a eye out for it in the future

Should it have 100% fill and is .2 layer height fine?

What print surface are you using?

I printed/installed last night. A couple things:

  1. As others noted, looks like Monoprice/Malyan modified the mount so that the adaptor doesn't quite fit right. You used an exacto to cut off 4-5mm off the bottom. It fits fine now. Looks like some others have remixed and created a new version of this that is shorter.

  2. I used M3 20mm screws and they didn't quite reach far enough to touch the nut. To fix it, I put the screw into the primary pieced (didn't use the small second piece/collar). I tightened to the nut and kept turning and the nut pulled into the print (since the PLA is soft). It deforms it a tiny bit but not big deal. The unscrewed and assembled normally. This pulled the nut in enough for the screw to grab it.

  3. As noted above, the hotend is now 1/2" forward from the previous hotend. Not sure if it can be adjusted. Or if it is a big deal.

  4. Got a new hotend for E3D and it is really nice. Haven't done a lot of prints but looks like rafts are cleaner, models a little smoother and haven't had any first layer issues.

Thanks for making this and the great info on hackaday.

Printed it out and using it. The nozzle is now offset forward about 1/2 inch so that "home" is on the bed adjustment screw. Any adjustment I can make to move it back?

Sorry for the stupid question, but will this fit both an E3D Lite 6 and a Full V6?

Ive got a spare Lite6 and id love to replace the stock hotend (even though it hasnt broke) love the printer for the cost, but the hotend/heatsink design is horrible :P (every other print results in a jam in the small ptfe tube )

I had a similar problem, turned out to be an issue with the fan. Make sure the fan is ALWAYS 100%, and not using any variable fan speed features. If there is inadequate cooling, the filament will melt too high in the heat brake, then jam... and the jams are really horrible nightmare jams.
I am assuming you know how bad the jams are, judging by your comment :P

After fixing it so my fan gets full 12v all the time, I successfully printed an 18 hour print.

can anyone specifically recommend where to buy the hotend itself? The ones from E3D are ridiculously expensive (Almost $80) vs. $17 on Amazon.

I see many clones on Amazon but not sure what to buy.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Preferably one that someone has actually used with this adapter.

If I ever wanted to use the hotend to print in ABS, what should I print the adapter in to avoid it melting itself >_< ?

You can print ABS on the stock MP mini hotend


Whenever I slice in Simplify3D, I get these holes at the sides for the next nut

Does this remove any of the build height of the printer?

Could you do me a big favor and link this to the MP Select Mini group collection of "Things"? It requires the creator to add it; I can't do it as creator of the group.

No, I don't agree with Makerbot, and was reluctant to put this on Thingiverse in the first place. This thing is only hosted on Thingiverse because I believe it is more useful to everyone than my distaste for Makerbot. While I am able to rationalize hosting this part on Thingiverse, I won't be contributing further to this community.

You are more than welcome to remix this thing (it's CC-By-SA) and put that remix in your list.

Alternatively, there are several other "Select Mini E3D adapters" on Thingiverse that are taken from my work without attribution. You might try asking them.

is the hotend an easy thing to replace?
my third printer is on it way to me. the first one stopped feeding filament..second one had the temperature sensor die.
Hopefully the third one lasts a little bit.

What model are you printing on that select ?

Cable chains. Something relating to the corexy D-bot

20mm Cable Chain Link w/reduced overhangs

I successfully printed this right before the print that broke the leads on my hot end temperature sensor, but the upper mounting holes on the larger piece don't line up with the holes on the smaller piece. Did the model somehow get broken in the most recent upload?

See pictures:

Did you have to modify the X carriage to use this adaptor? On mine there is a lip that sticks out on the lower part of it that is at the level of the two side pieces the original heatsink bottoms out on.

Bolts right in.

You may want to sand off some of the 'bottom' of the adapter. That might get in the way of the heater block. Otherwise, no, it bolts right in.

Thanks for the reply. I wonder if they made a running change and added the lip so the hot end assembly wasn't put together too low, forcing the bed leveling screws to need to be cranked down. I need to trim 5mm off the bottom of the adaptor for it to sit in the recess.

Mine has this lip too. I modified the scad file to remove about 5mm from the bottom and it now fits above the lip.

The bolt holes on the back are 5mm but the ones on the front are around 5.6mm and the nuts spin. Why is this?

No, they're not. The front and the back hex holes are designed for an M3 nut and are exactly the same size.

You can check this out with the OpenSCAD file. I don't know what's up with your printer, but both of those nut holes are exactly the same size.

Lol, Sorry your right. For some reason my printer made the lower nut holes smaller. Maybe my first layer height is too small and squishing out?

Will this work if printed in PLA? Or would it be too melty?

if it's melty, it's not just the mount that's messed up.

I'm having a tough time printing this with PLA. I'm a complete noob here, but I believe it has something to do with the retraction speed/amount; the printer's having trouble making the hop as noted in the image below:


I've taken your advice and gone ahead with printing one. I'm looking into going ahead and buying one of these E3D hotends, but not sure which one I need. I haven't measured the voltage to the heater to figure out if it is 12v or 24v. Looks like I don't need the bowden add-on. Is that correct?

It's a 12V heater cartridge. I'd get the bowden addon; it isn't expensive, and it's one of those parts you're going to lose anyway.

Have you encountered any wiring issues with your copy of this printer yet? mine has been horrible up until I checked every single end and found 3 broken wires. That is 3 from brand new

You should definitely contact Monoprice and use their warranty. If it's something that's happening during assembly or a design flaw, they need to know about it so it doesn't keep happening.

I informed them. They said they noted it. But Basically I would have to pay shipping to them and possibly back if they feel it wasn't their problem. I opted out of paying $20-30 shipping for a quick fix here and there. It's a sub $200 printer. I guess i can't expect greatness. If I haven't built one myself I wouldn't have known what the problems were and how to fix them. Still a decent printer for the cash. For small items and such.

Mine worked right out of the box. I managed to talk a couple of other people into getting one of these. Sorry to hear about your wiring issues.