LED bridge lamp

by Opossums, published

LED bridge lamp by Opossums Jun 22, 2016

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LED bridge lamp by Opossums is licensed under the Creative Commons - Attribution license.

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New design with universal segment is here http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1703104

UPDATE 13.08.2016 - look for picture and zip file named "shades"

Intention of this lamp is to be able to control shadows while doing assembly and soldering works. Instead of simply gluing LED strip to aluminium bar, I decided to make something fancy and inspiring.
To me, the ArtDeco and imperial architecture (hello, Gotham City) are endless sources of excitement and admiration. I spent some time researching old Roman architecture on the Internet, to design the base for the bridge.
I will soon add some magic into it - IR proximity sensors inside each segment to switch it on and off by the hands gesture and three rotary encoder knobs to adjust RGB components of the led strip.

Print Settings


Purusa i3 original kit










Slicer - Simplify3D.

Hand trouble printing each segment vertical, had to fiddle a lot with supports, and still, I have lot of defects. To me this is not a problem, as I will repair what's wrong, but this can't bet considered ready to mass production of any kind.

I don't know could I've completed this project without magical feature of how Simplify3D prints support structures. Even with to such fragile construction supports simply broke away without any damage.


LED strip, power supply and controller


"individually addressable 30/60/74/144led/m stripe waterproof IP65 IP67 5050 rgb DC5V WS2811 WS2812 WS2812b led strip 5m 1m 2m 4m"

I bought non waterproof versions, 74 led/m, 5 m (to be safe, as it seems like 2 m are left)

Switching power supply LED strip power supply adapter AC 100-240V to DC 12V 5V 24V 24W 36W 120W 200W 240W 360W 400W 500W 600W

5v power supply


DevilDesign ABS+
Runs 15€ per kg, had no issues with it.


Easy to glue with acetone

Additional files

Arduino code and schematic

Added Arduino code file controlling LED strip colors using rotary encoder.
Added Fritzing schematics of wire connections and export to PDF.


I found that LEDs are shining right into eyes, so I designed nice shades, blocking direct light from them.

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If I wanted to make a 360* ring, which one of these segments would I be printing repeatedly? E7?

The first picture is really amazing... ;)


Great design I love it.

My table is 105 cm long. Please, can you help me to scale the design to fit my table?

Thanks in advance

HI there,
I actually came up with a very similar idea for a uni project of mine. I am sure someone push have asked this earlier but could u tell me the Height and Length of your design? Also if you would be interested I love to show you my take on the idea after I finished the Fusion 360 work on it.

Comments deleted.

Wow! Amazing design.
Unfortunately the video appears to be unavailable (I'm in the US, maybe that's why?).

In the file "led_bridge_lamp_fritzing_schematics.fzz"
Rotary Encoder "A B S + -"

  • and - , no problem
    but A B S ??

Good job !

What corresponds to the letters A B S on the encoder?


Hi! Where do you see those letters?

what's the dimensions of the lamp, foot to foot. thx

When it comes to Arduino, I am a total noob. I "think" I understand the wiring diagram but the LED's have 5 wires, 3 (green/red/black) that go to the arduino and 2 (red/black) for power. How should that be wired to the PSU?

Arduino - red to +5, green to data pin, black to gnd
Other two wires to psu - red to +5, black to gnd

After a decade or more of following the maker / 3D printing thing from a distance, this is the first thing I've seen that could cause me to make the leap...

If, during the leap, you will need a help to land on a feet, don't hesitate to ask for help or advice :)

I very much appreciate that - most gracious of you.

How much filament weight is used for this one?

How much filament weight is used for this one?


I was wondering, how did you buy your filament ? Because it's only restricted to poland. Bu most of us are not from Poland?



I was wondering, how did you buy your filament ? Because it's only restricted to poland. Bu most of us are not from Poland?


Poland - shmoland ;) its available in Latvia internet shops, the rest I don't know:)


I was wondering, how did you buy your filament ? Because it's only restricted to poland. Bu most of us are not from Poland?


Is anyone else having trouble compiling the arduino code? I keep getting "exit status 1
'proceed' was not declared in this scope"

Haha after looking at the problem I will answer my own question: Comment line 147

Very good lamp, muy interesante, te recomiendo que le agregues visagras en ambos apoyos para que sea mas funcional.

hello. power supply how many watts nedded?. thanks.

Switching power supply LED strip power supply adapter AC 100-240V to DC 12V 5V 24V 24W 36W 120W 200W 240W 360W 400W 500W 600W

Very good. Did you use ABS or PLA? How did you glued it?

ABS, glued with acotone.

how much filament did ths use about?

less than 1 kg

how much filament did ths use about?

how much filament did ths use about?

how much filament did ths use about?

how much filament did ths use about?

what a great idea and print.. It took awhile but thank you for the files. I posted a make but unfortunately my light controller didn't work so I have to wait till Amazon arrives to have a functional light bridge :)

Thanks again

This is amazing. Great Job!!!

Thank you, my pleasure :)

I like the idea but for lighting I may try using the Philips Hue Strip light make it automated

It's more expensive, but also very cool:)


Are the foot height extension and the Foot Base joined with just glue as I had to shrink my version by 20% and these two parts just seem to sit on top of each other, and slide about.

How long does it take to print?

Which rotary encoder and library did you use?

Hi, Jeff
Rotary encoder is this

Library is mentioned in the arduino code attached to this thing (download files, it's there)

Thanks! I placed an order today.

Nice design and cool little project. Also using Simplify3D here...Are you printing all the arc pieces vertical? And if so, with supports? Example Seg-E-3 I rotated -62degrees...figured I ask before sending the print job. As doing it this way, multiple sections can be printed at once. I'll be scaling down to 85% btw.


"Little", pfff;))))
yep, vertical, 2mm manual supports on the lattice as many as hell, raft

LOL ;) :thumbsup:

Yeah, figured as much. Started after posting the above. Finishing upon on feet now. I have a few printers ;)

Scaled to 85%
.18 on all
20% on arch pieces
50% on feet

Ran 2 arches per print bed

LED arriving on Monday

Good luck! Please, keep me posted:)

Comments deleted.

Thanks for share this amazing Lamp!!! its posible to scale a small size?

Thank you, glad you like it:)

People are scaling it down up to 70%, but I haven't seen the end result yet. To me the lattice will become too fragile.

Thank you for answering, and instead of scaling down, can put less sections, so that the structure fits in a smaller desktop?

The arc is oval, so each segment is unique...
I'm working on another design with universal segment, but it is still quite experimental...

Led bridge lamp Universal Segment

What software did you use to design this? Just curious for a project I have in mind!

Autodesk fusion 360, free for makers, incredibly powerful, very suitable for frequently changing prototypes due to the timeline function.

Crazy awesome!
Might need to make one too! and add some neopixel microcontrolled led bars, making it into a ambilight arround your pc screens.
I'm living in a small home though, so need to see if I have space for it :p

Check out this new version of my lamp, it is for small desks, even half arc


Led bridge lamp Universal Segment

just finished assembling, however the weight has caused many of my lattices to collapse. Have had to repair 4 times. Really frustrating, however it is a beautiful design. Just need to make the struts thicker and keep in mind the strength to weight ratio. But regardless, love it!

The same thing, but different cause!
Depends on how you assemble it. I glued segments on the side, then lifted the whole arc and placed on the foots, had no any weight related issues. What I had was that sometimes I pressed fingers too hard and damaged the lattice.
Will you post your make? Please ... :)

Yes that happened to me as well! I decided it just adds character haha. And yes!

As ancient Romans had said - "quod non me necat me fortiorem facit" ;)


thank you very much for your great design. I understood what you were mentioning with the oval shape, so I decided for this one (tho I waited and lurked until the "uni-segment" thing was released by you)

Currently I got both feet, All E-Segments and printing S-4 at this moment.

Printing since 4 days on my Da Vinci Pro (of course with pauses; 1 segment takes about 3-4 hours to print at 0.2mm)
I forgot to print it with supports, got a little hanging in the X-bridges, but it's minor. Think some files, cutting and maybe a bit of acetone will help here for me - but how I said, its minor.

2 photos;
1: Printing S-4 + ready printed parts beside the printer
2: The parts, white ABS. You can see the slightly hanging from printing without supports or anything. Printed everything just as it came, flipped it to "lay flat" - as a tower (watch pic. 1 inside the printer front left)

As soon as i will finish it, we'll meet at the "Made One" section :) - Keep up the great work!

Oh, dear, your segments are looking better than mine ;)
And I wish that I had such nice enclosure around my printer. I was looking at Davinci Pro very much , but half year ago it was not supported by Simplify3D.

Can't wait to see your make :)

Hello, I finished printing one of the feet last night. Very cool design. You may have mentioned this in a comment but I couldn't find it, but at what angle did you have the supports generated in your slicing software? I had 45 degrees but it didn't seem to help those areas where it was generated.

I use Simplify3D, default angle there is 45, but what I did was manually filling all open spaces around X with support material.

really nice im in printing progress but it take so much time :D really nice desined

Thank you! Really looking forward to seeing your print :)
Yes, it takes much time, but still quicker than doing it be hand ...

Great Work .... but alas i went to print the base and it won't fit on my 150mm print table, i dunno how well the led strip will fit if i reduce the size ... if i take it down to 80% it will fit on the table .... has anyone printed at this reduction ... thanks Dave

Thanks! I don't think that fitting LED strip will be the problem, it's not sitting in the grove anyway (facepalm, my bad). Look at other makes, they all glue LED strip to the sides. But scaling it down would introduce another problem - fragility of the segment.

i found a good video tutorial on slicing using netfab basic seeing Simplfy3D can't do it easy ... so i might try that first :) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S5j5cXgybCk

Just a heads up, I have printed a few parts at 75% and they appear very sturdy regardless. When I get it finished in a few days I will report back on the overall stability of a scaled version!

Good luck! Your make could help lots of people with small print beds or desks :)

hello i love this lamp and want to make one but it doesnt fit on my build plate! if i scale each poece down to same percentage will it still print to scale if i do each piece that way? i am still new at this but it just barely doesnt fit to my build plate?? and i am pretty sure it is just the feet that are too big! can you please help or give suggestions maybe? thanks! Great Design! BTW my machine is GP3D ROOT PLUS

Hi! Glad you like it :)
you can cut model in half in your slicer, print two parts and then glue them together.
I can not recommend to scale it down as it is, because some parts will become too fragile.
But one guy (http://www.thingiverse.com/Axad/about) is doing exactly that. You can contact him and ask how he is doing.

Will you still designed in the style of other things like this lamp?

Przykro mi, ale nie bardzo rozumiem ... :)

Sorry, I will do other things like this lamp, for example, stand for phone / tablet.
I mean things reminiscent style.

For which model of phone? Do you have drawing of your idea?

Can you send me your FFF file so I can see your setting in S3D please?

But my fff settings are for original Prusa i3 MK2 printer, it won't work for others ...

Hello! I've had a similar idea for a year, but in mine, the arc is suspended instead of being fixed on the deck. The fixture should allow for pivot, and front and back movement.

As code is concerned, i am spending a lot of time learning the theory behind f.lux to incorporate it into the controller as that program really really helped my sleep. Something cheaper than this: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/rph8/visual-caffeine-our-revolutionary-lamp-keeps-you-e

I do not own a 3d printer (yet) so I am building a pvc pipe based prototype, very ugly , unlike your beautiful bridge;-)

My first prototype was so ugly, it scared my cat away fofrom m the workshop for a week when fell on to him :)
Then, I knew that I have to get 3D printer to make something useful, but made a deal with my self - no purchase, until I have 5 designed things ready to print in my folder. That took half a year ...

Good luck, I hope you will soon have your own device :)

Great work! Also seen it on pikabu.ru

Will try to make it 50% smaller, coz this one is to big for my table

What do you think wont it be to small?

Thank's, glad you like it!
Yes, it all started on Pikabu, my first 2K views :)

I thing reducing it will be quite difficult, as the struts are already too small and fragile ...

I will reduced it by 30%, now printing...

Удачи! :)

Hello, I guess these will be printer in the vertical....what angle should I print them on? I loaded S-4 in S3D and used 131 deg...looks like it's sitting flat....

Hello :)
It depends on your skill and printer capabilities
Check this out http://www.thingiverse.com/make:241461

LED bridge lamp

Thanks for you reply.

Well my printer is dialed in....just wanted to know what angle you set it up on....can you help me with this?

Which light strip did you purchase?

This, and more, is in the description :)

"individually addressable 30/60/74/144led/m stripe waterproof IP65 IP67 5050 rgb DC5V WS2811 WS2812 WS2812b led strip 5m 1m 2m 4m" http://s.aliexpress.com/JNVB7Zbu

I bought non waterproof version, 74 led/m, 5 m (to be safe, as it seems like 2 m are left)

Is that bright white or yellow white?

It's "anycolor" - multicolour, addressable (every LED has three LEDs inside), you can switch any combination by using simple code in microprocessor

How wide is the whole thing? I'm just curious if it fits on my bench.

And how tall it is in the tallest point.

Thanks for super quick reply!

Opossums: If I may suggest, please "fillet" the overhand on foot so it can be printed without support and thus without defects. Also fillet the inside overhangs so it is easily printable with no strings falling down.

Can you, please, send me a quick sketch on photo of what do you exactly mean? [email protected]

Removed the filet according to your request. Wil it do? :)

Erm, ya. It will work this way as well, but... but fillet means you add material to inner edge/corner or remove material from outer edge/corner. I'am not sure how to describe it. Basicaly, you do not want to use 90deg overhangs => maximum 60-70deg.

(facepalm) sorry, I was doing it in a hurry ... without using my head. :)

Check the remix I just did. It should be what you want as it is what I wanted and asked for also but ended up doing it.

Checked it. Inside looks good to me. Other and probably the last minor flaw is this:


That is a feature of the original design. I did not try to fix it. It looks like that cylinder IS attached but ends a millimeter or so shorter than it could have. I do not see any issue with it printing that way.

However, because you think it is a problem (and perception IS reality, right?) I went ahead and did a quick patch and uploaded to my remix. It REALLY did not matter...

Thank you for your support and contribution :)

Yes, No I see what was meant. Please use CaptKirk designed part :)

Still the top part, inside is "not 3d printer friendly". Another thing is that there is some geometry issues on bottom parts - screw spacers(?). They are inproperly extruded and there is gap in between them and rest of shell.

Ah, I missed that, but I fixed it in the file I just uploaded to my remix...

The gap between screw spacers is intentional to leave the room for the bottom lid.

Crystal clear. Not sure about tonight,but will do asap .

A good trick to glue PLA : use glue for PVC tubing. Cheap and very very strong bound !

Superglue AK Cyanoacrylate works quite good for PLA. You can use Cyanoacrylate accelerator to instantly bind it.

Tried that, usually cyanoacrylate works great (despite nasty smell, burn marks and finger hazard), but one I bought last time was not bonding. I'll try again with another brand.

I got mines printed in PETG, so can't confirm on PLA, but when I glued it in the past it worked perfectly.

Very well! I will try this asap! :)

Really nice design. But I have one Question - why are there so many different segments? Why not just one repeating segment?

Glad you like it! Segments are different because the arc is oval, not round.

Ok, I couldn't get it from the description/pictures. Great work.

No problems, if you need to know anything keep asking.

I'm working now on new design with universal segment with click in joints and embedd electronics. First drafts expected to b published on Monday latest

How wide is the cutout for the LED strips to lay in? Need to know if the lights I bought will fit.

7,5 mm
I use that grove to put two side ashes ire foam padded tape, because original one who's is on the strip is not sticking reliably

Regards from India, Its one of the most beautiful designs I've seen and I'm making this as soon as I can !! Thanks for the upload

I'm very happy to hear that, please post your make when done, I'm very eager to see it :)

Just curious, what are those two blue things on your desk?

One is the other project I'm working on, connected targets form my CO2 pellet gun

The other is Dremel multi-vise, very handy tool!

Printing 3 of these right now! Having good success printing each part vertically without support
Obviously not perfect but will be fit for purpose :-)

Thanks for the great design!

I'm so happy to hear that it is working for you!:) I had lots of issues with curling... But anyway, it's doable and fit for purpose

@Opossums: Files I have sent you via private msg are all good. I printed them already and they match perfectly. I'am in process of cleaning atm. Will update with pictures when it's glued together.

Glad to hear that:) Hope you will create you mix soon

This is the most beautiful light I have ever seen.

Thank you so much! :) you made my day!

Rotary encoders come in versions with pushbutton switches too - rather than using three encoders, I'd consider to use just one, and rotate through the the colours by push. As indicator for current selection, I'd either think of three LEDs of the respective colour near the encoder, or a short flash of the selected colour by the arc LEDs.

The flashing of ARC to indicate current color selection works the best.

Very plausible - you can change light colour without taking your eyes from what you're working on, when, for example, reducing blue for better depth vision (in my experience, higher blue component reduces 3d vision). But because of the possible occasional need to able able to change light blindly, I thought about a slightly modified user interface: changing intensity of all three colour channels at the same time is what one probably wants most frequently. Just turn encoder for this. Push for selecting change of single color (which is activated for limited time, with timeout): push, release for +- green after release, push, turn left, relase for +- red, and push, turn right, release for +- blue. Though this may need a manual for the unaware :)

I have added latest Arduino code to the parts rpeository.

Turn for intensity change - great!, will definitely do.
Regarding timeout, thanks for reminding.
Just did saving to EEPROM color channel values, to be restored on startup.
Click and turn won't work, it's very difficult to do that physically.

Exactly, four LEDs = red, green, blue and intensity :) Hope to finish the prototype today.
Thank you for sharing, glad we are thinking the same direction!

Well done ya clever bugger :) .... Nice work !

Pleasure was all mine ;)

this is a great idea i love it

i don't need one but i think i would look great on my desk over my work aria and 3d printer so i have just started to build it. will post pics once its finished.

Good luck! The build is quite challenging :)

I was going to start this and then I noticed you use ABS. This is probably a rookie question (which I am a rookie, my 6th print is in progress as I type this) but is there a reason you couldn't or shouldn't use PLA for this print? I have my printer in my bedroom at the moment and I've read you should print ABS in a ventilated room. Great design, thanks for sharing!

Well ... any material will do as long as you can glue it together. I use ABS because it is very easy, fast and strong to glue with simple acetone. I tried to glue PLA with various adhesives, but little success.

Shouldn't have a problem at all with this in PLA. It should be able to handle it just fine.

I like this alot this is amazing and am going to. Buy some. Filament just to make this

Glad you like it :)

Very nice , I will make it for sure but my desk is 2000mm long ,how much should I make it bigger to fit my desk ? 23% will be enough? am I right?

very cool lamp .....bravoo!!!!!!!

Leave some place for power supply ;)))
Thanks for sharing, glad you like it !

The Devil Design ABS seems to have a really high melting point, 235-245! What did you print at and how was the vapour levels (off-gassing/stink)?

To my surprise I had no issue with smell, I'm printing in the garage, not the living room, but felt nothing special afterwards.

What are the dimentions of it? Trying to make sure it will fit on my desk! Also do you have an approximate material amount?

Distance is 1620mm

Hi, how much individual parts must all be printed?

That Looks..... Awesome. Desk Stargate

Thank you! It was living in my head long before I got my first 3D printer, I'm so happy I got it finally out of there on to my desk ;)

Amazing... I love it!

So we share our love :)

What's the awesome clamp there with the blue handles, holding the tablet in a couple of pics? I'd love to print one.

How rigid is it? Lets say your head hits the bridge lamp, would it crack or break? My real question is how delicate is it?
I'd like to make one but I'm worried that after one hit it will break. Does it wobble with a fan on? etc..

"How rigid is it?"- despite each segment is quite fragile (I managed to break couple of x-beams by applying too much pressure, when cleaning support material), it is quite rigid for it's purpose. Nothing wobbles and is quite stable when legs are fixed to the desk with two small screws (there are holes in the base just for that).

"If head hits the bridge lamp, would it crack or break?" - I haven't hit it by head (yet) as it is quite high. All archs are designed to resist vertical top load, but are quite bad on bottom-top forces. But couple drops of aceton can fixs almost everything, what is built in ABS.

I'm more worried about cat attack (mine is too lazy)... I will do statistic load test and post back next week.

Thank you for the response. I am thinking of making one than comes off a vertical wall. So the ring would need to be very stiff, or have a invisible string supporting it.

Very good idea! Transaprent fishing string would be definatelly required

ok this is my next project, what is the base span measurement please.
Great work by the way

Good luck and patience, the build is challenging, but possible.
Distance is 1620mm

Thanks :)

Love this project, hate wasting filament on support. Had a possible interesting idea:

You currently have a rectangular cross-section (and yes and I know a square IS a rectangle). Lose the top crosswork portion, then close in the sides to form an equilateral triangle cross-section and print it on its side (can't print with the LED channel down because of the curve required for the ellipse. Gently sloping does NOT require support material so less waste with the same aesthetics - maybe even a bit more "artsy"!!! Add the "snap together" capability and it is ready for prime-time!! I think the triangle form would also be stronger as well. The base pieces could use a slight tweak on the ridge around the middle- if you slope up to below it, rather than making it a square and then add some triangles inside that slope up the lid, then it could be printed upright.

I am for keeping the ellipse but I would make it so that lower side pieces (and base) are printed twice with a single "keystone" to connect the two sides. Heck in the model just duplicate the piece in the STL so when you print it prints two.

Just a thought...

Look down for my previous comment where I wrote exact rotatation numbers which allow you to print it just fine without support. I'am printing it last 3 days and got 7 (half of bridge) completed (with no support).

Can you share some pictures of the segment on the build plate?

Take a look at the below Tinkercad link for what I mean for the segments- it is just a quick mock up using your original design as the building blocks. It is VERY crude but maybe gives you an idea:


Your description is SO detailed, why don't you fire up Fusion360 and make it! It's easy and free :)

I may but this was YOUR wonderful concept so I thought you, the originator, would want to take it to completion.

BTW, if you want to control your lights. there is a wireless interface that controls the WS2811/12 LEDs using a VERY inexpensive wifi module (ESP8266). See here for the specific product lighting forum discussion: http://diychristmas.org/vb1/showthread.php?6074-Announcing-the-Renard-Plus-ESPWiFI_Pixel-controller, here for the product details: http://www.renard-plus.com/rpespwifipixel.html, and here if you are interested in obtaining one: http://renard-shop.com/home/37-es-wifi-pixel-controller.html

It is an open design, open software and lots of support on the forum (I am a member there). I think we could figure out a way to tweak the code to get it to light up white on power up, then if you decide to do colors/effects, you would use the free light animation software like Xlights to do different effects from your computer.

What an interesting little board! Clean and simple, very well done. Documentation is very detailed, I'm impressed that such big effort is but into this.
My control board uses Arduino as well and Bluetooth LE module, making it independent of the wifi network parameters. Also I'm adding rotary knobs for adjusting color and 1-W network for small modules to be put into every segment.

The ESP8266 is not an Arduino because it is not an Atmega or similar processor. It is like some other recent "bolt on" capabilities (Intel Quark, ARM, etc) to the Arduino environment (compilers and such).

The WiFi configuration consists of setting the SSID and the passcode. After that, it sets up a small web server at an IP address on your network and waits for you to attach to it, or start sending light data. It is very easy and allows the board to work with the light show annimation software like you find on the diychristmas.org site.

Bluetooth is good, but has its own problems one needs to work around. Wifi lets this just sit on your network waiting to operate and not need all of the connection hassles and problems with Bluetooth. You can still control it from your phone, you would just use a web browser instead of a custom app on Bluetooth. In theory, you could write a control app that would output sACN E.1.31 datat out the network interface instead of the bluetooth. Just a thought....

Beautiful... respect from Greece my friend
It reminds me of... StarGate (movie) ... half... :)

Oh, magnificent Greece! It as another source of inspiration to me :)

Thanks, will you build it?

Looks great!
Out of curiosity, how much material and extrusion time was put into this?

~4 hrs per segment for me. 55,5hrs print time & 172m of filament (about 600g) without middle segment and foots.

Thanks! A segment per day, at evening after work. Less than 1 roll

Out of curiosity, why didn't you make most of the arch out of identical pieces, that way, instead of having "X" number of unique files, you instead of 1 file to print multiple times (in regard to the arch alone, not the bases)?

Because to me, in a form of bridge, ellipse seems to be more natural (and therefore beautiful) to the eye than circle. How many circular bridges are there? But due to popular request the unified segment circle bridge is what I'm preparing now. It should be ready next weekend after this.

Ah! I did not realize that it was not a circle! Still, haf of it can be copied (though i assume you've done that already)

The arc was designed as a whole, then cut into pieces and mounting groves added. So, no copyright was possible

Comments deleted.

The car was designed as the whole, then cut into segments and glueing groves added. So, it was not copied, that's the reason

I've needed this for my office for sometime. That dang ceiling light just doesn't cut it. I could also use this outside when I am working on props (since the porch light sucks). Either way I think this will be VERY useful. Thanks for sharing

There is nothing better than cold beer and well lit workplace;)

... as long as you don't stuff in the beer (or soda, or whiskey), like sanded dust

Very Awesome, quick question, did you feed power to the LED strip from both sides? or just one? I've heard that sagging voltage across a a LED strip can cause one side to be dimmer than another, so i was curious.

Glad you like it!
One side. The strip I use is digital strip, adressable.
I see no problems. Also, 3m is not a big dela for 2A power supply.

Did you meant 20A power supply? that's a lot of LED's to power,

No, 2A, as I wrote, actually it uses less

but the 74 led per meter strip says its 23 watts per meter, if you have 3 meters of led's in there, wouldn't it be at least 69 watts, at 5v, that's 13+ amps

That is why you can never trust the information given by a company.

Well, typical loading of a single LED is 20mA, RGB has 3 LED's, so each LED in the string could pull 60mA for a white light.

74 LED's * 60 Ma per LED = 4,440 Ma = 4.44 A. at 5 vdc, that is 22.2 Watts,

Math is pretty close to what the manufacturer says.

5 amps looks better, but still, I recall different reading on the multimeter. Will have to re-check the real thing tonight ...

I wonder if you can print the plastic spring like the springs on bottom of the four wheel truck that was featured a few weeks ago. Printed horizontally, pulled across the top and sides to replace the lattice? I think that would print faster.

I was going for my sense of beauty, lattice would not look anywhere near as good ...

Wonder how would work for product photograhy you just give me an idea thanks

Ohhh good idea, didn't think of that use, but now that you mention it stick some WS2812B strip in there, and design a nice interface to control the lights, and BOOM!

You know this would be fun if I could build it on a large scale for Portrait ... okay that's overkill probably

Initial idea is to be able to switch any segment (combination) on and off and control the color.
Addressable RGB strip I use can do exactly that.

This is an amazingly useful idea.

Bridge parts (without the foot mounts) -- 0.4mm Nozzle, 2 perimeters, 10% infill = 55,5hrs print time & 172m of filament (about 600g).

My aging eyes thank you!

No more creepy shadows ;) glad you like it!

To print it standing on it's flat base, rotate in X axis:

E1 90
E2 72.848535
E3 62.001095
E4 51.153629
E5 40.306158
E6 29.458701
E7 17.307846

S1 90
S2 109.119673
S3 119.967181
S4 130.81468
S5 141.662012
S6 152.509647
S7 163.356985

This way you can print it without support.

Also, Slic3r wasn't able to slice it correctly thanks to bad geometry.

I rotated it and repaired it. Files are ready for you Opossums. Just tell me where to sent them.

So you have created new mix, right? Create it here and upload, so people will have alternative and you will get credit :)

Well. Will do, but I want to test print it before to check whether it is ok. :)

Thanks, glad you like my projects :)

As a painter of miniatures, I applaud you!

It's my dream to create and paint miniatures and dioramas. That's so cool!

I actually think it is all good. Oh well, not good, but you can get around the bad rotation in printers software. In repetier host (which I use) I just rotate it roughly so it stands on it's foot and than press "lay flat" and it automaticaly sticks the bottom face to "bed".

The LED prices have me a bit confused, you purchased a 5meter stip of 74 led's per meter for 56 dollars from your link to alibaba, but I can get 3 meters for only 10 bucks from Amazon.com here: https://www.amazon.com/Triangle-Bulbs-Waterproof-Flexible-T93007-1/dp/B005EHHLD8
This has only 60 lights per meter but the price difference is substantial, and this awesome project needs only 3 meters if I am reading everything correct.

That led strip from Amazon is not color and not addressable, that's different story. I needed addressable one to be able to turn off any segment individually. Lamp will also do some cool color effects on new message and print job complete. Naturally the one I purchased costs much more, but if you plan to simply illuminate your workplace, Amazon strip will do just fine for much smaller cost:)

I am going to wait the 2 weeks that you said, because I want to print this with wood filament...
Just imagine how amazing that would look...
If this one already looks great, the other one will look just fantabulous!

That's really great idea to use wood filament :))) Transparent one could also look cool ...

Printing it in Transparent PETG, will share results if you wish to.

Wow! Definitely would love to see this! There is famous Russian fairytale about crystal bridge - http://astv.ru/Content/Comment/jpeg/72/85/72858f69-3a43-4c41-846c-2ef75a73877f_1.jpg

If You split each segment in half so each "outside" will be on the printer board and add tongue and groove you will be able to print it without any support ! Basically you ar going to print a ton of banana shaped "U" , one front and one back. I'm convinced that in this way you would reduce printing time and filament usage quite significantly .
Nice job :-) Typical example where arts meets engineering

Thanks for seeng art before engineering, that's how it was meant. Now I have to put engineering in front and go back to the drawing board :)

Wow, I have got to have one of these!

Glad you like it, will you build it?;)

I would love to build one and I have put it on my print list. Dog-gone print list is getting longer and longer though!

Thanks, glad you like it :)

Wow great! i will try to find time to make this and a short step by step blog and publish a link to you on https://3dprinterchat.com

This would be really great! I just feel a bit embarrassed, as the current design is quite hard to print and assemble. This is more like art instalation, than mass production ready project. I never thought that the lamp will spark such attention.
Now I'm working on improved design, where pieces will click simply in to place.

This looks awesome, I will be watching for updates very eagerly.
It will look and function superbly on my desks.
Thank you for sharing your hard work,

This is my pleasure and passion, no a "hard work", which is what I do for living :)
Thank you for kind words! :)

Indeed, the same for me too :-)
But it is still very much appreciated that you share.

Very nice! Can't wait for the updated version, I will definitely be printing one!

Trust me, I can't wait to finish it myself, but I have to work too. So all hope on weekends... ;)

This is awesome!

I'm kinda wanting to make something like it, but I'm wondering if it's possible to laser cut the arch design instead... It seems like it might be quicker and allow for larger segments to be assembled.

Hmm... I wish I knew how to modify files for stuff like this. lol

My new design will have option to print three of four flat pieces of the segment. First layer of the STL file could then be used to laser cut. In theory :)

Great Design, I Like It

Thanks, that's cool :)

I have to say , your design is great !
( I seldom to comment , you are good enough !!! )

Thank you, I never expected such outcome :) I just built what I dreamt about and to my great surprise you and other likes it ... 8)

~ 700 grams, I suppose. Less than one spool

Nice idea. looks great. Wondering why so many pieces since the spans all look the same. Also thinking it might be made parametric. And thinking with judicious use of some 45-degree struts or half/full circles, depending on the bridging, no support material would be required.

Thanks for loving it :) It's oval, therefore all peaches are different. I'm working on new version with common segment peace with embedded proximity switch. Should be ready and tested in two weeks

Wow this looks great. I will definitely have to make one, but I'll wait for your revision. Thank you for the time you are putting in. I've been looking for something like this for my workstation.

Thank you :) my workplace is so much better now

This is brilliant! So impressive! Well done!

Wow! Tanks for the kind words:)

Very nice design. I am wondering though why are there so many different segment files? Wouldn't it be enough to reprint one of the middle segments several times or are the angles changing? It looks like a half circle to me.

Hi, glad you like it!
Unfortunately it's oval, not circle. Such way it looks much better as resembles real bridge

Glad that you like it:)
Actually, it's not circle, but ellipse. Im working now on the improved design taking in account many improvements suggested by lamp owners and my personal experience. Among other things it will have one, universal segment.

Do you have instructions for how/what to print? Which pieces, and how many of each?

It's avesome to know that you want to build it as well. I'm working on the improved design, which will be much easier to print and assemble. It will be ready in two weeks and will have assembly instructions. Could you wait? ;)

I cant wait, I hope it would be possible to stay beyond 1200mm. This way it could fit on my Fatar 88 Keys Digital Piano as well as my 1300mm desk.
Another thing which might be cool to get it off the table. But wall mounting brackets on both sides might be to specific to my desk.

Absolutely, no problem. Seems really useful and will definitely improve my soldering/carburetor rebuild table.

This is so cool now I need to build a desk to put it on love the work man really really sweet.

So sweet of you to share, thanks a lot! :)

very nice design,made me think of a 'Stargate' when i first saw it.
do you think it would be possible to scale it down?

Glad you like it :) If you scale it down it will be quite hard to print as booms will be too small. But I suggest downloading one segment and try to scale it down and print, you may be lucky :)

Wheels are turning! I'm thinking a neopixel strip and arduino (gemma would do, or trinket) with all kinds of control, particularly dimming and color.

Splendid! Are you planning to build your version too? :)

Neopixel strip was exactly what I was thinking when dreamed about this lamp before I got my 3D printer.
Now it already has Arduino and WS2812 neopixel addressable strip. I have ordered three KY-040 Rotary Encoder Modules to change strip color by modifying RGB values and non-contact proximity and gesture sensors APDS-9930. This I plan to install in each bridge segment to switch it on and off with hand's gudeture.

I've already done something similar with a gemma, (2) 8mm neopixels and a
HC-SR505 PIR sensor on a rather ... ah hem .. popular articulating dragon model. I haven't posted the make, yet.

Yeah, I can think of some encoding fun particularly on the dimming, but didn't think of adjusting the rgb values. I'll have or add a bank of a few button presets to make sure I can always return back. For fun, I was thinking of different programs for Christmas twinkling, audio level gauges, message indicator through flashing, phone call notifier, door bell?, who knows, lots of ideas.

Yes, I really love your ideas!

  • bank of a few button presets
  • audio level gauges
  • message indicator through flashing

This is something definatelly to consider. So far I'm really eager to see that lights are following as my hand is moving along the arc's curve.

What an awesome idea and design!

Thank you! I'm so glad people love it :)))))

Impressive. I don't print these but the design is great Congratulations ! (Sorry about my english :D)

Thank you, I was dreaming about this lamp long before I got my 3D printer. And your English is absolutely OK :)

What is the distance from the outside edge of one base to the other's outside edge?

Would love to see a video once you got the IR sensors installed!

Will definitely post it!

OK, as promised, foot part was redesigned to find segments, no fiddling with dermal regard anymore.

Thanks! More to come :)

I love this idea! It would also be helpful to know which LED strip you used and what other parts are needed to complete it as you show it. Thanks!

Hi, thanks for sharing :)
LED strip for is from AliExpress
"individually addressable 30/60/74/144led/m stripe waterproof IP65 IP67 5050 rgb DC5V WS2811 WS2812 WS2812b led strip 5m"
I will add more information to the project later today.


really nice work. I appreciate the design. Not sure if it will conflict with your head, but I will definitely try it out.
One question: do you need the different arc parts? I would have assumed that all of them should be equal (except the end part), aren't they?

Hi! I'm glad you liked it :)
Parts are definitely different, as arc is not circle, it's more like oval.
Middle part work like key stone. All parts are labeled inside, so you assemble them correctly.
S - starts of the arc, E - end of the arc, only keystone part is not labels.