Split Keyboard

by MrAnderson6655, published

Split Keyboard by MrAnderson6655 Jun 27, 2016



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This is a split keyboard based on technomancy's Atreus.
Info about the Atreus can be found here: https://atreus.technomancy.us/

The keyboard uses firmware built by reddit user _spindle which is a branch of TMK and can be found here: https://github.com/ahtn/tmk_keyboard/tree/master/keyboard/split_keyboard

Completed pictures and build pictures can be found here:

The hardware used is as follows:

42 Cherry style or Matias switches
42 1N4148 Diodes
2 Arduino Pro Micros (mine are from Ebay)
4 USB Micro B Breakout Boards (mine are from Adafruit)
3 USB Micro B male connectors
1 USB A male connector
4 6mm M2 standoffs
8 M2 screws to fasten the USB breakouts to the standoffs. My screws were slightly too long so I used a nut as a washer
16 16mm M2 screws to fasten the plate to the case
16 M2 nuts to fasten the case to the plate
30AWG color coded wire
30AWG magnet wire
1 3D Printed left plate
1 3D Printed left case
1 3D Printed right plate
1 3D Printed right case
40 1u keycaps (I used DSA)
2 1.5u keycaps

NOTE: The housing space for the Pro Micro is inspired by this thing
It is intended for some small cuts to be made to free the tab that holds the controller in place with a snap fit.

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20 hours of printing later for the left plate/case, and all of my switches dont fit :(

Did they fit for you on the first try? Do I just have to sand every one?

Otherwise, it printed beautifully. Maybe there could be revisions so that a) the holes connecting the wires between switches are a little less awkward (maybe just have a whole segment removed so that it's easier to access), b) one with standoffs on the case vs having the plate lay flat on the case, or c) reduce the amount of material for the plate.

I highly appreciate the rigidity of the case but it seems a little awkward having to find screws that perfectly reach down to the case (unless it's made specifically for a certain screw). I think that the plate may also be able to retain most of its rigidity while removing some of the material required to make the plate.

I definitely agree that some of the material could be reduced. I think if you made each "rib" 5mm tall, it'd be plenty and that's roughly the height of the bottom half of the switch housing, so then you could run all the wires over the ribs. One thing to note with precision fit designs like this is that you should always print a sample and make sure the fit is right, so you can adjust your print settings or the model. Every printer has a different tolerance. For me, I printed a small section of the plate a few times until I was happy with the fit I got from the settings I was using. Also, I'd much rather build the next one with some heat set inserts and screws from the bottom, potentially into standoffs, so that you can't see the screws. This was just my first attempt at this :D

Thanks! I learned a lot from that - didn't know about tolerances before. Hmm.....

This looks like a quality design. plate mounted switches, do you have a place for a controller? like a teensy?

Take a look at the details in the description, specifically the Reddit thread I linked to. There are lots of pictures of the build process there, including where the controller sits.