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jartz

E3D V6 Mount with Fan for CTC / Flashforge / Replicator - Reversible

by jartz Jul 2, 2016
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Great Remix, using it for 6 months now, working perfectly!

As I realized that I don't need the dual feature I would like to ask if you could remix a single version of your Remix with the extruder in the middle? That would be more than perfect!! :):):)

Hmm, do you have any problem with extruder temperature?

I've created a single version by myself - if anyone is interested:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2524128

best regards

E3D V6 Hotend Mount - Single Version - with 40mm Fan - CTC / Makerbot Replicator / Flashforge
by swestru

i am really considering getting this printer but the only downside i was was the weight of the 2 extruders. how easy would you say it is to do this mod?

Doing this conversion on my CTC dual. Everything is going good but I was wondering what cooling fan mount you use?

Humm... I thought I put it in the description, but it's only on my profile, lol.

I'm using this fan shroud:
Active Cooling Fan Duct v2 () http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:537918
With my own spring clip design:
Cooling Fan Spring clips (For the above duct) http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1655037
I also installed the Missing Mosfet to control the PLA fan:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1035348
I also used a step-down buck converter to get 12v for my PLA fan, instead of using a 24v fan. ;-) (NOTE: If doing this, step down the 24v from the power supply directly, and use the "hot" +12v from the converter and switched
Negative* from the PLA fan output "Extra" connector. )

(*) Note that the fan duct doesn't clear the 1/4" glass clips that I'm using currently... I haven't gotten around to re-designing my clip system to work with the PLA duct yet, so I had to move my 'prime' to the back of the bed and only print on the back 2/3 of the bed when I use PLA. (for now...)

Active Cooling Fan Duct v2 for Replicator 1 / Duplicator 4 / FlashForge / CTC
CTC Cooling Duct spring clip mounts
by jartz
CTC, Flashforge EXTRA Fan Output
by CBiker

I pretty much only print pla, is it fine to print this with pla or should it be abs?

It may be OK as it's not -that- close to the heat block. I'd recommend putting some insulation or PTFE tape between the heat block and the housing in that case, although the cooling fan -should- be able to cool it well enough to prevent it from melting.
I use 1mm ceramic insulation like this:
Ceramic Fiber Insulation Blanket Paper Sheet for Wood Stoves/Inserts 610x300x1mm http://r.ebay.com/csVwFt
(Note: I haven't bought from -this- seller, but you get the idea.)

Comments deleted.

Where did you get the e3d setup from? What is all needed to buy to do this?

These are relatively cheap chinese clones from either eBay or Alidata, I forget which. IMHO, the main thing that sets a genuine hotend apart from the cheap clones is the quality of the heat brake and nozzle. The cheap clones I bought had a 14mm deep section at the top of the heat brake for the PTFE tube to go in to, way too deep, so the PTFE tubing was basically in the hot zone of the hotend and they would clog constantly. The genuine hotend has only a 4mm deep section for the PTFE tubing to seat into.
This problem is easily fixed though by purchasing a 'polished' heat brake. This makes a clone work just as good as a genuine hotend. (Oh, and I'd suggest the 'all metal' ones, not the ones with PTFE liners)
Here's a couple of sources that I've bought polished heat brakes from - both work perfectly:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/331888311290 (China seller - cheaper, but much slower to ship to USA)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/121977814369 (USA seller - Shipping is much faster, but they cost a lot more!)

The genuine hotend also has an integrated compression fitting, whereas the clones have a screw-in compression fitting on top. The heater cartridge and thermistor are higher quality on a genuine hotend too, but you don't need them for this application as you'll be using the printer's existing 24v heater block and Thermocouple with the new hotend components. You can either re-use the entire heater block from the existing hotend(s) with the E3D style hotend (heatsink, heat brake, nozzle), or use most of the E3D hotend (Heatsink, Heat Brake, Heat Block, Nozzle), and re-use your existing heater and thermocouple on the E3D style heater block(s).
I originally re-used the stock heater blocks, but one day I got a bit too aggressive on the nozzle torque and stripped out the threads in the block, so then I swapped them out for the E3D v6 heater blocks. This also gave me the opportunity to use the E3D V6 Silicone "Socks" - http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Spares/V6-Sock-Kit-3-Pack with the hotends, which work GREAT!

Awesome work man! I was hoping someone would have done this and I love the extruder mounts on the back! Great setup all the way around!

Thanks! But as noted in the comments, this is a remix of MacNite's awesome design, so 99% of the credit goes to him!!! As noted in the description, I created this remix to:

  • Made it reversible to show off those gorgeous E3D heatsinks!
  • Modify the mount so that both hotends are adjustable about 2mm in total, making leveling quite a bit easier.
  • Increased the wire 'tunnel' size a bit to make wire routing a little easier.
  • Added a fin to force about 60% of the air to the lower portion of the heatsink for better cooling (where it needs it the most)
  • Shrunk the mounting holes for the fans a little bit so that M3 screws will thread right into the plastic with no need for long screws and nuts for the fans.

Other than that, everything in this project is MacNite's - here's his Thingiverse page: http://www.thingiverse.com/MacNite/about

Hey there thanks for your help. What were your JKN Advance K and K2 values? Struggling getting mine working properly with the bowden setup. Thanks

Hi caall99 - I'm not aware of those value names, but I also don't use the 'stock' software to control my printer - I use Simplify3D. But I'm guessing you're asking for my retraction values.
And as I mentioned in the description, I'm using E3D V6 'clones'. The values for Genuine E3D hotends may be slightly different, but these should at least get you in 'the ballpark'...

This is what I'm currently using, and seems to work well for PETG and ABS: (I haven't tried other filaments yet since converting to these hotends)
Retraction: 2mm
Retraction Speed: 20mm/sec
Tool Change Retract: 2.2mm
Tool Change Retract Speed: 10mm/sec

JKN Advance K and K2 are nozzle pressure compensation values for acceleration and deceleration. It is a Sailfish firmware feature that you can edit by connecting ReplicatorG to your printer. I have K at 3 and K2 at the stock 0.055. This seems to work for me. With K at the stock 0.005, I was extruding FAR TOO MUCH plastic during acceleration and deceleration.

I need 7mm of retraction, and do so at 70mm/sec (not sure if this is too fast for my extruder, but it seems to work). print quality so far exceeds that of direct extrusion, but it took me printing 200 calibration cubes to tune everything properly.

I am VERY happy with this upgrade. I have maintained dual extrusion capability, but print at much higher quality, at more than twice the speed.

All of the Bowden parts needed some "remixing" to work for the new Qidi Tech printer. I'll probably have them posted up in a couple weeks.

I'm interested on the QIDI Tech mods. Let me know when you post them.

HI Roadeagle2016 - I'm not sure what you mean... It looks like the QIDI is another 'Makerbot' clone like my CTC Dual. Many parts are interchangeable on these printers as they share a common design.
I own a CTC Dual, so that's what I'm designing parts for. And since I don't own a QIDI printer, I can't design any parts specifically for it, sorry.

Ah... See, I learn something new every day. ;-) This is my only Sailfish based printer, and I have [admittedly] not done a whole lot of research into Sailfish's configuration.
I've spent more time thinking about how much work it would be to convert it to a RAMPS board running Repetier. ;-) /me likes Repetier much better... LOL!

I too am learning as I go here. I am now realizing that most any clone/cheap 3D printer can achieve excellent prints, rivaling those of $2000+ printers. What you need is patience and an unquenchable thirst to learn!

I have spent far too many hours and too much money on filament to get where I am now with my printer... but in the end, the feeling of accomplishment of tuning my printer was well worth it, and I learned a ton in process! It is my opinion that the Bowden extruder is MANDATORY for a Replicator Dual style printer. From the factory there is far too much weight on the gantry/print head resulting in:

-Ringing artifacts on prints
-Wear and tear on the mechanics
-Nozzle overshoot resulting in rounded corners
-Excessive noise
-Shortened life-span of extruder motors from enclosure heat
-Sagging X and Y axis from the weight
-Inconsistent filament feed due to filament spool friction being reflected in direct extrusion rate (less of a problem in Bowden)

The fact that I may not be able to print flexible materials with my 1.75mm Bowden doesn't bother me... I'll get another printer for that task if necessary.

I wish there was a Core XY conversion for the Replicator gantry. The weight of the Y axis stepper motor (which cannot be relocated) is still something to contend with in a Bowden setup. Granted by removing one, then two motors... you are exponentially reducing the inertia of the gantry... Taking out the 3rd motor, would be icing on the cake, and print speeds in excess of 100 mm/s with HIGH quality could be possible. Anyways, I am rambling now...

The authors of Sailfish told me that the firmware is not designed for Bowdens and that K and K2 values may not work properly in such an implementation. They recommended that I upgrade to an ARM based control board, like Duet or Duet Wifi and use the RepRap Firmware. I will try to exhaust Sailfish on this printer, and use an ARM board for my Core XY build that may happen at a later date.

All in all, this Bowden conversion (and the significant amount of tuning to get it working) was worth it, and it appears to be working VERY WELL so far. My only issue has been Retraction... but I am about 95% of the way there with that.

I have just upgraded my Flashforge creator pro with a Duet Wifi controller board and I'm thinking that next upgrade should be a Bowden setup. I'm having trouble with my thermocouples with noise from steppers currently so I need to replace those also. Is it possible to fit a genuine E3Dv6 hotend and Bowden setup on my printer without loosing any Z print area? I will have to replace the thermocouple with thermistors also since I broke one. I'd also like to build it as a single extruder for more speed. Any tip regarding what I need to do this and is it even possible for a noob like me? :)

Yes, the nozzle height doesn't change from stock. It may actually give you a mm or more of height - nothing significant though. ;-)
I'm now using 5:1 planetary geared extruders, and they work great. I can get 70-80mm/sec with very good results. (Note that I'm currently only using one extruder, the other is lifted about 1.5mm as I fried one of my drivers. I have a replacement 4988 that I'm going to adapt to it, I just haven't gotten around to doing it yet.

But I heard the threads didn't fit the E3Dv6. Do some detailed guide exists anywhere? Would be awesome to do this mod but without a guide I'm afraid it would be to hard for me to select right parts and such. I'm thinking full e3d pack with titan and e3dv6 hot end

But I heard the threads didn't fit the E3Dv6. Do some detailed guide exists anywhere? Would be awesome to do this mod but without a guide I'm afraid it would be to hard for me to select right parts and such. I'm thinking full e3d pack with titan and e3dv6 hot end

Hi m1n1m,
So the CTC heat brake will not fit in an E3D V6, as it's smooth on the 'top/cool' side. But the stock heater block has 6mm threads, so the E3D style heat brake will thread right into it. That's what I did initially, until I got over-zealous and stripped out the 'stock' heater block. Then I switched to the E3D V6 style heater blocks, and everything worked great. ;-)
The text description tells how to do it. You'd need:
E3D V6 hotends (or clones)
PTFE tubing - as the extruders are converted to Bowden
Two PTFE fittings (PC4-01 recommended) for the Bowden conversion.
Misc 3MM screws and nuts as documented. (at least I -think- it's documented in the thing - let me know if it's not, and I'll take measurements of mine for you and update the instructions...)
That's about it - everything else is 'recycled' from the stock parts.

PS: Make sure the E3D heat brake (if it's a clone) is only countersunk ~4mm deep (where the PTFE tube goes in). If it's really deep (~14mm), it will do nothing but jam during retractions...

I guess I have to do as you and strip out the stock block and fit the single heat block from e3d. Thanks for the info. I will order the parts you mention and see if it makes more sense when I got them on my table. Do you experience any problems with Bowden vs direct? Btw if you are considering a electronics upgrade search YouTube for flashforge sound and look at my stepper sound test and have a look at the great user interface on the duet wifi. I'm so stoked after this upgrade. Best thing I did ever to get rid of the stock board :)

I guess I have to do as you and strip out the stock block and fit the single heat block from e3d. Thanks for the info. I will order the parts you mention and see if it makes more sense when I got them on my table. Do you experience any problems with Bowden vs direct? Btw if you are considering a electronics upgrade search YouTube for flashforge sound and look at my stepper sound test and have a look at the great user interface on the duet wifi. I'm so stoked after this upgrade. Best thing I did ever to get rid of the stock board :)

I guess I have to do as you and strip out the stock block and fit the single heat block from e3d. Thanks for the info. I will order the parts you mention and see if it makes more sense when I got them on my table. Do you experience any problems with Bowden vs direct? Btw if you are considering a electronics upgrade search YouTube for flashforge sound and look at my stepper sound test and have a look at the great user interface on the duet wifi. I'm so stoked after this upgrade. Best thing I did ever to get rid of the stock board :)

But I heard the threads didn't fit the E3Dv6. Do some detailed guide exists anywhere? Would be awesome to do this mod but without a guide I'm afraid it would be to hard for me to select right parts and such. I'm thinking full e3d pack with titan and e3dv6 hot end

Does your printer have metal or plastic drive gears? Mine has Plastic. :( I thought that perhaps there was some 'slop' in them (since they have no set screws and I've had some very slight layer shift issues), so I ordered some metal 16-tooth gears to swap them out. But it seems that the cheap 16T gears that I bought are not machined very well, as they are off center once tightened and the axis' don't move smoothly. :( Perhaps I could try my 20T gears....

I'm also considering doing a variant of this upgrade: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1597566

I do like the idea of a CoreXY upgrade... It's definitely possible, but will also require upgrading the controller. I'm all for that, as my biggest pet peeve with Sailfish is that I can't control the feed rate multiplier like I can do on Marlin or Repetier...

Y-Axis Direct Drive for CTC Replicator Flashforge

Interesting! Direct driving the Y axis will only get rid of one short, closed-loop belt. I am thinking the improvement will be negligible if you already have the pillow block upgrade done.

My Qidi Tech printer already has the equivalent of pillow blocks, and uses aluminum gears/pulley all around. One idiotic thing Qidi Tech did was take open loop GT2 belts and SUPER-GLUE them to the Y-axis bridge/carriage (these are the carriages that run front to back on both sides of the machine).

The belt was super-glued, but never pulled taught, and they installed those spring clips on the belts to tighten them after the fact. Spring clips on belts are a HORRIBLE HORRIBLE idea. If you want horrible print quality, go ahead and install those spring clips... all you will accomplish is MORE print head overshoot, and MORE ringing/vibration in all of your prints. I put in a complaint with the company and they are sending me new carriages and belt to install. I guess common sense still eludes some people.

Sailfish has a firmware for CoreXY control. But I agree, to run the CoreXY at its expected feed rates, you would need more processing power than an 8bit Atmel. My dream machine would have the following qualities:

-Enclosed build space (heated chamber)
-CoreXY with Nema 17 and GT2 belts
-Bowden with Volcano hot end
-Hiwin MGN12 linear guide rails all around
-300mm x 300mm x 300mm build volume or there abouts

Unfortunately this combo can currently only be achieved with DIY

As a matter of fact, I just finished installing the pillow-block upgrade minutes ago and am running my first print with it now!!! ;-)

As far as all those specs, the FolgerTech FT-5 only has a couple of those ticked off, but it's one heck of a printer... The folks that pre-ordered are raving about it. The two things that it has on your list are a) Linear rails and b) Build volume: 300mm x 300mm x ~400mm
Here's a link:
https://folgertech.com/collections/3d-printer-full-kits/products/folger-tech-ft-5-large-scale-3d-printer-kit

(Note: I do NOT work for them! I do have one of their Kossel printers, and it's great... Way higher quality than this CTC!!!)

Did you glue the PTFE tube connectors (that sit above the extruders in the Bowden setup) into the hexagonal openings in the printed part? Are these supposed to threaded or just glued in place?

No, they threaded right in and hold tight. I didn't re-mix these - they are from the original design.

My PTFE tube connectors threads are 6mm. (PC4-M6) https://www.amazon.com/Pneumatic-Straight-Fitting-3D-Printer/dp/B00THZJDSY

Doesn't look like you intended for us to use what I linked above? Can you provide more details or a link for the product that fits? How about this one: (PC4-M10) https://www.amazon.com/Mcupper-Straight-Pneumatic-PC4-M10-Extruder/dp/B01DLTBNK2/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1468944010&sr=1-1&keywords=pc4-m10

I originally didn't re-mix the extruder mounts, they are the original designs from MacNite, and my pneumatic fittings fit perfectly. Note that I also carefully drilled the 'bottom' of my PTFE connectors out so that the PTFE tube could go down all the way into the mount, but the ones that you linked look like what I have.

I threw together a quick re-mix of this mount for your PC4-M6 connectors. Let me know if it works out well for you. I designed two - one that has just a 2mm opening for the filament alone, and a 2nd with a 4mm opening so that you could put a PTFE liner up into the extruder. I don't know how well the PC4-M6 connectors will hold being threaded into plastic, but I suppose it's worth a shot. ;-)

Could I use this just for one extruder ?

I want to use these complete

http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Full-Kit?product_id=381

and not any parts from the old extruders. Is that possible

Yes, you could mount only one extruder. They have separate fans, just like 'stock'. it would look a little odd, but it would work. ;-)

You'd have to use the Thermocouple from the old hotend because the Mightyboard controller only works with thermocouples. (The E3D comes with a Thermistor).

The reason I used the whole heating block from the printer is that it's identical in function to the E3D one (same threads, etc), the only differences are: A) The CTC heating block is slightly larger, B) The heating element is secured with a set screw vs the E3D Clamp system, and C) the 'stock' heater blocks are symmetrical, allowing the thermocouple to be mounted on the 'outside' of both heat blocks. (not possible with the E3D block unless you mount one of them up-side down...)

PS: If you're asking if you could mount one 'stock' hotend and one 'E3D' with this object, the answer is NO. It replaces the entire stock hotend configuration. ;-)

Cool. I get you there about the thermocouple. I have no MK10 heater blocks left, finding them hard to find for a fair price here at the moment. So was looking at a full on upgrade. The other thing I was looking at was using the Titan extruder and making it direct drive. The printer is up against the wall so no room on the back for filaments and motors.

With a single extruder that problem of alignment wouldn't be a problem.

Why not mount the spools and extruders up top? Then you could keep the dual extruders if you wanted to...
I was looking to see if there was room inside the printer (on either side of the bed, like the Dremel printer), but it's about 10-20mm short... d'oh!
How about on the left and right sides of the printer, or both on one side? Lots of possibilities...

PS: I stripped out one of the 'stock' heater blocks by accident, so I switched both of them to the E3D heater blocks a few days ago. It seems to print a little bit better, which seems strange to me as the 'stock' ones have a bit more mass to them... ;-) Maybe it's just the 'placebo effect'?
I had mounted them with the heaters towards the BACK of the printer.
And I somehow popped my 'Extruder 2' driver chip, so I'm going to adjust (hack) a standard A4988 driver to plug into the Mightyboard. The 'stock' CTC drivers actually use the A4988 chip already (even though the Mightyboard design specifies the 4928), and a 'standard' 4988 Polulo driver won't fit as the pinout is 'flipped' and has a special pin for electronic control of the voltage reference. I'm going to 'hack' a standard A4988 board to fit. ;-) It's not all that hard with the right tools, and I happen to have 'the right tools', LOL!

wich e3d v6 should i take? long or short?

And how do you cool your prints? for example if you use pla...

I have a couple of 'normal' E3D V6 'clone' hotends in here. I'm not sure what you mean by 'long or short' - the only parts of the E3D hotend that I didn't use was the Heater Block, Heater Cartridge, and Thermistors. Everything else is from the E3D hotend (Nozzle, Heat Brake, Heatsink, PTFE tube clamp)

For cooling PLA prints, I use this:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:537918

... with my spring clips:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1655037

Active Cooling Fan Duct v2 for Replicator 1 / Duplicator 4 / FlashForge / CTC
CTC Cooling Duct spring clip mounts
by jartz

Hi, i love MacNite's mount too!! Great mod, as I want to do you put more space for the hotend wires and now it can be mounted on the "new Xaxis" project by ggherbaz http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:726567 it's amazing!!!

i have 1 request, due to my very very low level about 3d drawing can you please share a version of e3d_v6_mount_V007_Bowden_Coupling_Mount that fit my 9mm push-in connector for ptfe tubes?

anyway great job!

CTC new X Axis

Hi Elstak!

The "CTC new X Axis" thing by gghergaz looks great - I've added it to my list of CTC upgrades to do!!!

I'm not 100% sure that my re-mix will fit on that carriage yet, but as long as there is the same clearance on his carriage as the 'stock' carriage, it should!

As far as your request for the '9mm push-fit' connectors - The original design from MacNite is designed for threaded push-fit connectors, it's just that he chose a Hexagon shape for them to thread into instead of a round shape. But they hold GREAT... I've added a few pictures to show mine.

I try to contact gghergaz also by facebook but without success, i want the igs file to modify the project to fit the LM8UU 24mm bearing instead of the one printed with the taulman bridge (i do it and the bearing is not so cool, anyway it work better than the original one and with less noise).

For the mount, when i try to mount the Macnite's design bridge on X carriage i had remove a bit of material but you had less material under the fans and i think it will mount correctly. I'm printing your bridge, is enough or you modify also the other components?

I modified the clamp too a little bit in order to have about 2mm adjustment on both hotends. It's also about 2mm 'thicker' to account for that. The clamp from MacNite's design would work, but you'd lose the extra adjustability I did with my re-mix.

I put a radius on the duct below the fans so that it would clear the 'stock' carriage mounted 'backwards'. I'm not sure if it's enough to mount backwards on gghergaz's carriage. I'll print one of his carriages out next week and see if it clears. ;-)