TRiFORCE Remix of Switchblade and Trident

by filicia22x, published

TRiFORCE Remix of Switchblade and Trident by filicia22x Jul 4, 2016
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Crazy update 4/9/2018: I would still built it the V4 current but i get requests for a finned version. I added the parts Yando R triforce fin and Yando R triforce tail fin, you print both parts and use them instead if the other rear arm and motor mount. this parts if they work will make it driven by rudder fin and the set up should still in theory be the same. let me know if they work for you if not tell me what i can change to make it work.

Please note most parts are in the V3 folder I left the V2 parts in the main zip for Older users that need V2 parts thou I believe all parts are exchangeable between them.
V1 parts are outdated and anyone using them please use V2 or V3 parts.Area 51 bottom plate is in main folder.

Dec 29th 2016 Update Added optional Area51 Bottom Plate that takes place of weak nose area that is the weakest part ,it also rids it of the need for 2 cushion balls, but you can pick which version works best for you. also if you already have the TRiForce you can just go get the part alone here http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2003212 Thanks Ill keep making it better!

Oct 2 2016 Update: After printing a few more I want to update again to help out the folks wanting to build this craft. Its now better than ever and easier to print.
First look at the V3 zip it has all the latest changes mostly in the nose/camera section.
I started using a product Airwolf Wolfbite its a game changer and I can now print all the parts in 2 sessions instead of one part at a time with tape. Plus the warping is extremely minimal if any. Get some!

What is this?
This makeover remix covers problems and simplifies printing for the SB and TD. They are both wonderful and well engineered. This allows lower priced very common gear and easier assembly. You could not ask for a better platform to build upon, so here is what I changed.

Top plate has a slot for a naked Orangerx r615x and a place for 2 antenna.
I also beefed up the FPV gear section of the top plate. It will house a Mini system I broke 2 just trying to get gear into place.

Middle plate has been extended and a fence added this helps protect your gear in a crash. The unneeded large bearing holes closed so no more need for bearing plugs.
The rear extension has coverage for the new rear arm that normal ESC will fit.

Rear arm fits 9 Gram Turnigy and similar servos and better room for SimonK ESC and wiring.

Bottom plate had unneeded large bearing holes closed so no more need for bearing plugs this is where the landing gear now mounts.

Added Landing Gear, this simple gear set protects the battery, and gives more stable take off. This gears have plug feet also , which can be printed in rubbery filament.

Added TVL Non backplate camera support (tvl600) so you can fly without a camera or with normal modern sealed cameras without backplate .

Updated July 8th Camera Tray has 2 Versions Triforce Lower Camera Tray old which prints with Supports or facing up, Or my V2 which splits this in 2 for way easier printing without support since this piece gave me printing nightmares and was the last piece fixed. Updated July 8th please see Oct 2 16 ,V3 which is even improved over this update.

Update August 7th
Over 250 Downloads WOW! I didnt expect this much response Thanks!
Tried the Lemon Rx feather weight. It fits with only a little razor knife needed but its lack of CPPM makes its wiring very difficult. I would stick to the OrangeRX r615x with CPPM for now.. I also tried the TVL700 Eachine $25 mini FPV set from Banggood and it fit great without any hassle and the video is clear ,because of the channel button it has to be justified left which actually works out better for the antenna. The Front ESC's have enough room to fit inboard right in front of the Flight controller which I now am using a power distribution board on worth the extra $5 for sure as it cleans up all the wires. Ill add pictures as I get complete mabey even a video.
Aug 7

Only files unchanged are Trident arms R&L .But i may soon change them also for my further liking,,,, but they are included so you dont have to hunt them down to build.

I also included a Antenna Array and Deans plug holder if you wish to add them.

What you need is a 3X motors &ESC for a 250 size craft, 9 gram Servo Turnigy, a 1200mah battery, Cleanflight Tarot FC /SP Racing F3 or similar with small pins and 90 degree outputs, a bunch of different screws,and a Orange 615 old or new types will both work.

Also With Multirotors in general use screws that go more than half way thru arm and then finish them down from the other side with a shorter screw and reverse the direction for the next screw in the same arm. This makes the arms VERY VERY crash resistant. because most breaks happen at the thick parts of the arm but screwing them this way is very close to bolting them all the way thru but prettier to look at.

Print Settings

Printer Brand:

Airwolf 3D



Doesn't Matter


Doesn't Matter


normal MM




Printing Arms 1 at a time helps with warping since they want to warp off the bed when you print multiple or so that is what happens to me. This is a fairly hard to print thing , it can certainly be done but its not been an easy project , Your printer should be freshly tuned before trying to print this! Please note Oct 2 16 update and try Wolfbite solution its the bomb and allows all parts that can fit to be printed at once and requires less watching.

Some of my parts printed in 2 colors in the same print i do this by switching filiment while printing which is sort of tricky but looks cool.

How I Designed This

Gear needed to make it fly

I am updating this as sort of a manual 11/29/16
3 decks
The Upper Deck holds your Mini FVP transmitter, and Orange RX 615 reciever in PPM mode. The nose holds your Fatshark, TVL 600 - 700 Camera, the middle deck hold the FC and often the front arms ESC's, the tail holds the Turnigy 9G servo and most standard ESC. The battery is velco strapped to the bottom deck and of course your motors go on the arms.
Once together, To remove the top deck, unscrew the top 2 camera screws first, this prevents removing all the cushions which can be tricky as one piece. You can then remove the 4 smaller screws leaving the cushions in place to access the camera area.
Its usually best to then remove the bottom deck to access the middle section.
The tail boom should move freely without the servo in place and extra cord from the ESC to motor is recommended as the tail motor moves.
The tail servo
Do not plug in the tail servo until your Flight controller knows its a tricopter. Hooking it up , not following this direction could ruin your servo. In CleanFlight the Tail Servo is listed as Servo5 and when configured correctly will move the opposite of your rudder stick movement , its normally needed to make servo5 Negative -100 % to fix the directional problem. The tail servo may shake nervously when the copter is not flying. That is normal and even expected , but it should not shake during flight if it does its time to tune the PID till this motion does not exist. When you arm the motors if the copter starts to spin on the rudder axis do not take off, Instead reverse the servo, + or - 100%. Also the rear servo neutral point of the servo should face the motor close to straight up, if its not perfect it will not matter as the FC takes care of this during flight.
The right side arm will have the propeller running clockwise (CW or R) the rest run counter clockwise, your Cleanflight program or Open pilot will tell you differently but this is the only working configuration that my team uses. and trust me we have explored this FC issue alot.

Actual configuration.
We all use Lux Float ,with horizontal mode active for the first few flights till you understand TriCopters and the unique way they move and tune.
Tricopters are not easy to tune , the PID setting can be very, tricky, if you can not tune then I recommend your local hobby shop if they have a expert on hand or the local FPV clubs. Tuning is not easily possible to do from a tech support scenario though, we will help all we can. Initial setting will normally get you airborne.
What's the recommended electronics?(not included)
Orange RX 615 CPPM mode. Absolutely recommended
Turnigy 9g servo for tail or similar.
3 each 2000+Kv motors.
3 each 12-30 Amp ESC.
CC3D, Naze32 or SPRacingF3, with bent pins or side plugs. My team uses Tarot Naze32
Eachine FPV mini 700TVL or similar if FPV is wanted.
12v Power board w 5volt out, of choice is recommended highly.
1200 -1800Mah battery I have found the 1250 E-flite batteries to work best. They keep the weight low and give 4-5 minute safe fly times.
2 each 5x4.5 CCW left & rear, 1 each 5x4.5 CW right , you can also use 5X3 props, you could also use 6X3 or Tri blades im sure mine uses Carbon Fiber 5X3's from maytech.

Aug 7 2016
A. 3X Motors fit for 250-280 size Multirotor around 2000KV (1806 or simular)
B. 3X ESC Oneshot 125 or SimonK ,matching set of 4 motors and ESC =---$40+/-
C. 1X OrangeRx R615X running CPPM mode (all commands on one cable) $15
D. 1X Flight controller like the NAZE32 ,or CC3D Im using the Tarot Naze32 $13
F. 3X Arris Camera anti Jello Balls these suspend the top frame and cost-----$4
G. 4X 2cc&2ccw Props 5X4.5, The carbon fiber ones last a long time.---------$5
H. 20X M3x8 screws ,10X M3x12 ,1X m3x20 with locking washer nut------------$5
I. 1X 9Gram Turnigy servo (blue) or very similar size------------------------------$5
J. 1X Power distribution board with 12v and 5v power circuits -------------------$5
K. 1X 3S 11.1v 1250mah 20C or higher Lipo Battery-----------------------------$13
L. 1X Velco Battery Strap to hold battery to underside of Aircraft--------------- $5
M. Mini FPV with TVL Camera Eachine 200 set from Banggood ---------------$25
N. Filament ,time and patients----------------------------------------------------------$5
$140 bucks for complete ready to fly & FPV ------------------------------------ total $140
Not to mention if you got a crashed quad with a motor or ESC out it can be the donor craft to make this for very little money , Its fast agile
The servo (#5) needs to be reversed in cleanflight (-100%) or it wont fly it will just spin
props must go like this. looking at it top down regardless of what cleanflight config says
ccw Front cw
rear - ccw - arm
Use Luxfloat ,Tune as you like or Flash Triflight if you wish but I prefer not flashing my FC
Not at all for beginners, predrill all holes for the best effect.

F.A.Q. Will I sell you one?

Yes I do sell the Frames, Please Message me for Colors i have in stock Currently.
If I need to Order you a Non Stocked Color I can do that also but it adds a 3 working days to the order after payment. So I can do almost any color from WYZ Works Filament.
If you do order one you get Velco Straps , Sticker, Instruction Manual,Anti Vibration balls ,all screws and Landing feet which will be red. I ship free to USA only. and they usually cost $50 and take PayPal. I currently print V3 Unless otherwise stated with Area51 Mods if requested as well.

What are the Exact PID's?
I Still have my own on Stock Tricopter settings with the Tarot Naze32 which is why I recommend it. Its very cheap, plus it fits nice.

I have XXXXX Gear will it work?
Short answer I dont really know. The radio if spektrum should use the R615X with the case off. If you use fly sky try to keep the receiver small, so many of them are very large. Most any ESC will work from DYS small Oneshots to larger SimonK, the servo area is meant to house the turnigy 9G sevro ALOT of servos are this same size so many knock offs fit this foot print.

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You've mentioned that you're running Cleanflight and PID tuning might be a bit challenging. I finally managed to finish my tri (posted updated pictures & video in the Make section). It's flyable, but definitely far from ideal on stock PIDs. I use LuxFloat (of course!) on Naze32 and had to halve yaw P and I settings, which helped but not completely eliminated the tail wagging issue.

I know every setup is different, but would you mind posting your PID values and RC/Yaw rates either here or in RCGroups thread that I linked to earlier so I have kind of starting point?

Well I have actually just used stock settings
The board I have is Tarot Naze32 TL300D3
Its cheap and seems to just work other than Using -100 on servo 5 and Lux float as you mentioned the only waggle I get is in a strait vertical drop (which i dont recommend doing) Ive built 3 without changing the PID's a bit. Its a little slow on yaw but thats ok for the way I fly but other may want much much more.

I have tried a few playing around with PIDs but I am not good at it and after playing I ended up back at stock PIDs,Its also been mentioned to try installing TRIFLIGHT if CleanFlight is not working for you. I have not tried this myself but others that have your problem claim its the magic they where looking for when PID tuning failed them.

I would give you a strait, this PID numbers answer, but the USB broke off the only copter I have not sold (my personal one) and i just do the Stock Settings... and its very aggressive and flys good. Its been the longest lasting Multi Rotor I own that I fly alot and crashed alot without replacing parts other than when i come up with a upgraded part that i think will work better.

Comments deleted.

Thanks. I dampened yaw I PID value even more and it seemed to help. Will try to get more fly time outside to see if I can get use to is, as it definitely flies differently from a quad.

Re: broken USB. I had it happen on one of the boards and I remember just wiring up an FTDI USB adapter directly to UART1 to connect. Another setup I have on my bigger quad is a small Bluetooth HC-06 module connected to UART1. That way I don't need to use any USB cables at all (and I also can use EZ-GUI on my Android phone to reconfigure the quad in the field).

Seen TriFlight mentioned in several places... Will try to play with it if time permits.

i might try the blue tooth thing in the future , i got a freind that says she can do the micro soildering needed to put it back but we will see its a cheap board and likely the best option is to just buy another 13 dollar board.

My tail starts out with about 5-15 degrees of tilt and thou it could be strait up ,it dont need to be as soon as flight is occuring the FC puts it where it should be anyhow.

Would you sell me a printed copy? I have been waiting two years on my printer from Kickstarter. Just crashed my tricopter and would like to rebuild her. Let me know if you would consider printing and selling me one thanks.... [email protected]

yeah I can do that. I have 2 hanging around right now that are ready to go ,a Glossy Black one, and a iPhone White one.
I could print you one in Translucent Green, Translucent Light Blue,Translucent Orange, Glow in the Dark Sky Blue, and I might have enough Filament for Red. or i could mix and match. I could do it for $50 Shipped free to the USA and It comes with Blue Cushion Balls, Airshark Sticker ,all screws and trans Red Ninja Flex Feet for landing gears ,Battery Strap in yellow, blue, green ,black or pink. And I Guaranty all parts to work or I'll send you another 1 for free. I take paypal [email protected] or texx me 3219608477 and we can talk colors and such.

Comments deleted.

Also, I'm trying to use the same 700TVL Eachine camera as you, but the printed front camera plate doesn't fit it very well. Basically, the opening is wide/deep enough to only let the lens itself through. The camera housing doesn't fit in. There's a gap between the printed mount plate and the camera and its back PCB plate... not sure if I need to Dremel the opening to make it wider so the camera's plastic housing fits in?

See the photo in this post, I think it explains the problem better -- https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=36291465&postcount=10

also i answered your posts concerns in RC forums as well , this should get rid of all the problems you are having , each time i build one it gets easier and easier. now they print overnight and go together in 2 -3 hours, flight ready.

Thanks, appreciate the clarifications.

the plastic front camera mount is deleted in the case of the board style camera, so no plastic part only the camera itself.
Sorry if that was not clear ,,,and use small screws. dont stress that part out to mush with larger screws.

Having some doubts that using an M3 screw as a pivot for the tail motor mount is a good long term solution. The screw's threads will grind the tail mounting hole on every move, which will probably make it loose over time... Any thoughts on that? Did you notice any degradation over time, meaning the tail motor becomes wobbly?

i use a mostly non threaded screw common on rc car wishbone areas ,they have worked fine for months for me. it could be remade to take bearings or brushings, but honestly the part moves very little so i dont really see it as a problem.

I will have it printed soon, so real pictures , Im very sure all the parts work and play together since most of them are on my current Tdent, you can mix and match with the older styles SBlade and TDent depending on what parts you have installed. Basically its more common part friendly.

have you did flight test yet? if so do you have a video

Yes I have some test flights. Unfortunately for video, I often fly alone and this craft is very hands on, so no video yet.
Realistically is handles very much like the Trident. These craft fly well with cheap equipment, making them a great project for a weekend or 2. As a person with about 20 multirotors I would suggest this one for anyone that knows how to fly reasonable a race type craft already. Dont forget to read the whole description for equipment ideas and the process of tuning the servo which is pretty strait forward once you know what to do.