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R2D2 Front Skin (ANH)

by mrbaddeley, published

R2D2 Front Skin (ANH) by mrbaddeley Jul 7, 2016
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6mm Front Skin for Artoo Detoo full scale model (fits my other files). 6mm thick split for minimum warping so quite small parts but goes together with little waving or warping. Printed ABS, 3 shells, 10% inflil and Acetone welded. Panels to follow. Made also for .3mm layering to speed printing up (works with litle impact on resolution. Good luck! Just enabled tips to see what happens... Please feel free to send across a tiny tiny amount if you wish to! Not even sure if it works as I can't see anything on my screen :-)

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hi there i have started printing out the parts for the skin but iam finding it difficult to find what pieces go on the left hand side to finish it can you tell me what parts fit there please thanks for a great design

Not quite ready to print this out yet, but planning ahead.

It looks like the rear skin wraps around the frame more than the front - how do you get it on the body after gluing it all together (I'm assuming it slides down from the top)? Also, how do the skins attach to the frame?

Thx

Hi, the rear panel I have attached with magnets at the moment, the front and rear skins can be glued on, leaving a large access panel at the rear which I'm holding on with magnets. Once this panel is off and the dome is removed this gives access to the main body. I may change the fixing for the panels as I haven't motorised yet and movement may dislodge the magnetic panel.

Thx much.

I would recommend rare earth magnets https://www.amazon.com/Rare-Earth-Magnets/b?ie=UTF8&node=1265130011

I've used the 1/4" magnets on speaker grills and they can be tough to remove when attached to another magnet.

Hi, will this skin fit directly onto the R2D2 frame from James at xrobots, or are your frames a different size?

Regards,

Keukpa!

Hi, the frames are different. To print the skins I've make them 6mm thick and tweak the frame for accuracy of the overall height along with accommodating the skins. Additionally this frame has the skirt incorporated (James was a skeleton frame) and modified lazy Susan at the top. finally the issue James has with the legs (his 'bodge' as he called it) means fitting a full skin isn't possible without some redesign, hence quite some change. (I've made my own fix for the bodge).

Hello, I have a little trouble to put the puzzle, you'd have a diagram that shows the assembly of this part?. cordially

Is this compatible with James Bruton's R6 droid frame? I've been working on a modified structure based on his model, and was looking for a way to add skins. Then, I stumbled upon this!. Also, are these parts available in a 123d design format? (not just .stl files) Thanks!

Hi, the frame is based on James' excellent design. I used his 123d design as the basis but modified the dimension to support 6mm printed skins and incorporated a printed lazy Susan to support a substantial dome (the printed dome in my designs). Also modified the shoulders to remove the 'bodge' he added to strenthen the mechanism. Tweaked the dimensions for accuracy and added a solid skirt. All this means these skins will not fit his design as is. Mainly the bodge under the arm stops this but using the raw 123d design you could tweak the skin to fit the original frame if you find a way of handling the shoulder issue. Alternatively feel free to build on my changes for the frame (or give them a go. All 123d designs are shared already, the link is in the dome description via a onedrive share so feel free to do what you wish with them.

Great! Thanks so much

Hello MrBaddeley, the recently uploaded panels worked a treat and printed perfectly : )
I've been tackling the back panel and I have been really struggling with shrinkage and splitting
I might have to look at lying the back panels flat to like you have done here with the front panels : )

Hi, I've tried both ways, laid down is reliable but still needs quite some sanding. The skins I found the hardest, printing thin curved sheets isn't the easiest job.

What builder specs are these made to CS:R or CS:L?

Size is CS:R but they're 6mm thick to ensure stable 3D printed (designed specifically for the whole printed R2).

how did you print your doors? also which pieces are just for the utility arms?

Hi, doors I printed flat with supports for the centre arch. Utility arms are in the body parts model.

no i meant which of your skin pieces are for the utility arms.

I have all the bits on the table and I have to say I'm a little lost. I should have numbered them out before tearing them away from the brim.
Don't suppose when you have a moment you could upload a few more of those colourful jigsaw puzzle pics : )

Can do, it will be a week or so before I can as I'm on vacation at the mo. Have you tried looking at the 123d design files (link on the dome description and software is free to download). I'll add all the images I have to the link also. Basically the link is to a onedrive folder with the design and a few images in there.

Much appreciated, I'll take a deeper look and see if I can get my head round the bits. Regards Jace.

Oh and enjoy your holiday ; )

Nice stuff!
I have a really large printer, do you think it would be worth trying to print this as a single piece, or just asking for trouble?

Hi, the skins are a challenge due to shrinkage and warping along with lots of sections / holes. Printing any curved thin piece on the curved edge will result in warping (wavy straight pieces) as the cooling and associated shrinkage causes the printed section to move back and forth slightly. Curved parts are best printed with the straight edge on the bed or alternatively flat with the dome up (like a bridge) but this results in lots of sanding and finishing as the layers are visible at the top. All of this plus lots of support material whichever way you choose made me go for lots of small parts welded together.

I wouldn't, as you say your asking for trouble. Unless, perhaps your doing it PLA have an enclosure to regulate the heat and one hell of an awesome 3D printer ; ) Who knows, the other builders will likely have different ideas?

Hi Guys,

You might find this power coupling print useful. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1673531

Certainly easier to paint when the time comes ; ) Cheers Jace

R2D2 Power Coupling

Any chance of a sketch or doodle for part location, getting hung up on the 3rd layer.

Hiya, posted layer 3 and layer 4 instructions in the images on the page (on layer 4 I've added extra splits because of warping to the diagram but it will be obvious (I think))

Thank you so much, most helpful. and awesome work.

you are a machine !!! love it !!!!

Love your work ! thanks for the upload

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