Mostly Printed CNC 525 MPCNC "J-25.4mm = 1" OD"

by Allted, published

Mostly Printed CNC 525 MPCNC "J-25.4mm = 1" OD" by Allted Jul 13, 2016


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5/9/17 - New XYZ Part to allow for T8 Leadscrew driven Z axis.
8/8/16 - Fixed a small dimensional error with the corner assemblies. -Thanks Martin S
7/13/16 - New Roller Assemblies. No more motor mount flex, less hardware needed. More, mostly printed!
5/25/16 - New Center and Z Axis assemblies, More rigid!, easier to square, universal tool mount.
4/24/16 - New Corner assembly, easier to square, shorter print time, more rigid.

Mostly Printed CNC / MultiTool
These parts are for 25.4mm = 1" OD conduit.

More info here https://www.vicious1.com/, and http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:724999

Parts list, https://www.vicious1.com/blog/parts/

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How do i find the older version, i broke a piece of my og machine

Post what you need in the forum. Someone had a complete set of old parts, if not I can get out my backup tomorrow. Might be a good excuse to upgrade?

Is the new design worth starting all over?

Yes, you can do it in 2 stages if you don't want to do it all at once. 1- Rollers and motor mounts, and 2- corners, center, Z axis. The earlier model you have the more of an improvement you will see.

Hi, im still new to this thing and i was wondering if i could use ramps on this instead of rambo.

Yes, I have all sorts of board options shown on the Firmware page, but really you can use any board you want!

HI! This si very interesting project to me. Thinking to build one.
Curious if there is a list of parts which HAVE to be printed using strongest material possible and some which not necessarily have to be string. Just want to save on material.

On the parts page of the site I have the infill % broken down.
It is fastest to ask questions in the forums.


I have a problem with pronterface. I created a gcode using a estlcam and loaded into pronterface. It shows something like this in the console and there is no model showed.

The print goes:

  • from 0.00 mm to 0.00 mm in X and is 0.00 mm wide
  • from 0.00 mm to 0.00 mm in Y and is 0.00 mm deep
  • from 0.00 mm to 0.00 mm in Z and is 0.00 mm high
    Estimated duration: 0 layers, 0:00:00

After I start, it shows endless echo:endstops hit: and moves a bit in x, y then z like trying to home. I cant solve a problem.
I dont have endstops, used firmware from this site http://www.vicious1.com/marlin-firmware/.

There are no extrude moves, only travel moves.
In repetier you can show travel moves, I haven't used pronterface on many years.

If you have follow up questions please use the forums on the website.

I decided to go another route for my home CNC. Would anyone be interested in a full set of 25.4 mm printed parts with extra hicwic universal mount and dust shoe. Minus the 5mm Pineapple Coupler. I also have a DW660 Rotary tool New in the box. Parts were printed at recommended settings or better on some that I felt needed it. No particular color scheme, just printed the parts with whatever was on the spool. Battleship Grey is RAPTOR PLA(very tough), Trans Green and Magenta are Inland PETG, and the lime green is Folgertech PLA. 25.4 MM Here is a link to the parts on vicious1.com to show all the parts are there.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-5-Amp-Cut-Out-T…/100634645 ASKING $210 Shipped in the U.S.-PRINTED PARTS & DEWALT DW660


EDIT: I noticed I was missing 1 of the universal DW660 brackets, it is being printed now. Also a lot of the parts still have the support material attached, which removes very easily.

None of the parts should have been printed with support material. There's a forum on the site where you can sell parts that might give you a bigger audience than this.

Comments deleted.

I was giving the order for 3D printing the 25.4 mm parts when they asked me what type of finish I wanted on the parts. They told me they can go anywhere from 100 microns to 300 microns (the former being the best). I wasn't able to find any mention of such quality parameters on your website. What quality should the parts be printed in?

Thank you!

Thank you so much for replying so fast!
But from that I only understood that I need to use PLA preferably for 3D printing. Rest all seems way too technical for me.
Can you please tell me in layman's terms, the parameters required for a pretty good quality 3D print of the above parts?

Thank you!

PLA for dimension accuracy, 3 perimeters for through hole strength. I have a .4mm nozzle and print at .26mm layer height

Those are the three most basic settings, I am not sure what you are asking for?

Sorry for being so vague. All the 3D printing shop wants to know from me is what should be the required finish. Will printing it at 200 microns be okay? (.20 mm layer height)

Yes, but do you see above where is says .26? That should save you a lot of money. And you might want to compare with my prices, last time I checked I was at least 1/3 the going price.

I incorrectly assumed that the one inch parts would be best for US conduit and now I'm stuck trying to find some elusiveone one inch outer diameter tubing. Anyone know how I might get the pipe for this in the US?

Lots of sources in the forums for 1" OD stainless tubing.


there are 2 pineaplle coupler ( 5mm_5_16in_Pineapple_coupler vs 5mm_8mm_Pineapple_coupler)

Whats the difference , wich to use ?


This is explained in the assembly instructions.

It depends if you are using a 5/16" allthread or an 8mm screw. the kit comes with 5/16".

First and foremost, thank you for this incredible contribution! One minor question, you mention supports for rails over thirty-something inches, is there a part for that somewhere I've missed? Or is that a DIY thing? I wanted to try going long on the x-axis, around 8 feet or so... I've just started printing this out of PETG; I'm going to compare the part stiffness and overall quality to PLA, but I'm inclined to believe PETG will be the superior choice.

I'm planning for a large size also. I'm going to fill the tube with epoxy granite to make the frame more rigid.

It doesn't really work that way. If you want a large machine I designed one, the LowRider CNC.

Pet is more flexible. So stronger and weaker depending on how you look at it.

If you are doing 8 foot you should really make the LowRider CNC.

Thank you for the compliments.

If you search mpcnc supports you should find a few options.

Hi, I am not able to access the vicious1.com website, is there an alternate for parts list, ect.?

Hi, I get a cipher mismatch using Google. The error is ERR_SSL_VERSION_OR_CIPHER_MISMATCH.

That is going straight to the link below with the https?

This has never been an issue for me do you happen to be using an antivirus with web scanning? Chrome has instituted new ssl rules so it could also be that.

Last night I turned off my antivirus and tried a few other things. It was no go. I will check out more You tube videos tonight.

I actually don't have another list anymore. Could you give me more info on what happens or why you can't get on the site and I can try and fix that. I have never heard of this issue.


if i want to use nema 23 motors?
i want to use it because they are free for me :)

How come J_Roller has a mirrored roller. They look identical and cant tell why you need 2 mirrored vs 4 non mirrored?

There is an explanation on the assembly page for these parts.

Ah I see now. I didn't catch the angle where the rail goes. thank!

Can you use LM25LUU? it's better I think

going to make this version
will it cut 4/5 mm carbon ok ??
looking to make a a4 sized version for cutting out drone frames :)
i have 2 3d printers so printing parts out wont take to long

ill be useing 1" cds tube as i have a few lengths sitting in garage from my drag car wheelie bar that i can no long use due to illness so i think it will be good and strong to use this

CF is easy, make sure to take proper dust precautions.

thanks for the quick reply

yes once done i will have a proper dust extractor on it ( have no option but to have one due to lung problems )

carnt wait to get it built now :)

Mist or water is another option. I think I'm about to cut a frame so I'll take a vid of whatever I end up doing.

Comments deleted.

that would be good to watch thank you

Comments deleted.

The lock corners fitted my 25.4 steel pipe okay.
But the Flex Foot on the other end seemed to me to be the wrong size?
The diameter of the hole measured closer to ~23.5mm

I had to scale up the part to fit without putting massive strain on it.

I just measured the model in the file called J-_Flex_Foot.STL and it's ok 25.4mm = 1". probably you use the wrong model.


I have old IE 25mm version. If I would like to print new middle Z the spacing middle (X,Y,Z) pipes are the same?


The entire center assembly and z axis need to be updated at the same time.

And 25mm pipes will fit?

Not these parts. These are 25.4mm.
Here is the 25mm version, http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:790533

Mostly Printed CNC 525 MPCNC "F-25mm OD"
by Allted

Not these parts. These are 25.4mm.
Here is the 25mm version, http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:790533

Mostly Printed CNC 525 MPCNC "F-25mm OD"
by Allted

Thanks. You're very kind.

hy please i wont to know about the electronics and software part can i have them?

I want to make it so that it has a z axis of 24 inches for 3d printing, my question is does anyone know if it will have too much play at 24inches?

Yeah, sorry that is too long to expect any kind of accuracy. I am starting to feel the max for 3d printing is about 10", maybe 16 if you went bowden and printed slowly.

I hope you don't mind me asking, but do any of these parts need support? I know the original page says it doesn't, but it seems like these would need some sort of support. Is it because of the quality settings and default orientation, or something else?
Thank you for your patience with my question. I really appreciate that you made this design available, and providing assistance. I hope that you have a great day. :-)

Nope, support works perfect for some not at all for others, so None of these need support. (well I lied the nut traps should but I don't use support, not a big deal) I think I might have come up with a way to fix these minor parts for no support but, another day...

i not understand differences from all the parts with "M" and not (total of 4 different parts):
For example: Lock_Corner and LockM_Corner

thanks for help me.

Shown in more detail in the instructions. http://www.vicious1.com/assembly/

The M parts are mirrors of the normal parts

Does any one know where I can get the 25.4mm conduit in the U.S. or online? Home Depot and Lowe’s don't have it and I can't find any online.Thou I have seen a link to where I could get it online a few weeks ago, but I can't find it now. I have already started printing the parts for the 25.4mm one and I would hate to have to start over.

In the US you are looking for 1" OD stainless steel tubing .049" wall thickness.

OK thanks, I was able find a place not to far from where I live that sells metal called Metal Supermarkets, they should have what I need. I'm also thinking about using aluminium for the two tubes that will be moving for less weight, any though on that idea?

Aluminum will not work, way too soft for the high point load of the bearings.

Ok, yea that is right.

Can you upload the 3d model of the finished object with all the parts in place?

hello, i'm ready to print the 25.4mm version so i downloaded all files.
but when i checked with the part list i noticed some different names..
example: in part list you wrote "4 foot bottom" but there isn't any "foot bottom.stl" in the archive and the most similar looking is "J-_Flex_Foot.stl" and lot of file names have an F2 added to the name

could you update parts list please? a dumb proof version :D

I'll see what I can do with the names. The "F,C, or J" is to differentiate the sizes, the numbers are revisions.

ok thanks for your help, inside the 25.4mm there are mixed "size" files..

is this right?

Good catch, fixed that. I had updated the files yesterday and uploaded the wrong ones.

Any chance we can get the Parts list updated so it matches the zip files. Your http://www.vicious1.com/blog/parts/ still lists
4 Foot Bottom

Is the Flex_Foot the replacement?

The foot is the oldest part, unfortunately I do not have time to finish the edits and rename them all right now. As long as it says foot in the name it is the right part. The J foot has the size labeled on the part the others do not, yet. Only difference besides the name. I figure it only matters to me since I print all three sizes.

I think I am printing a mixed file one....
Hope not but hot the following parts:

Toolmount letter J
Foot letter J
Z motor letter J
Bottom top letter F??
Bottom corner letter F??

Also almost done printing everything...

Everything should be the same letter. The f parts were only up for a few hours two weeks ago. Sorry you wasted your time.

Nothing you could do anything about.
Will check everything tomorrow, at least I didn't have everything printed yet before I found out.

To be correct, for 25.4mm (1") I need the J parts?

Luckily the biggest parts are correct.

Started to print an ABS one, had no warping what so ever and a very good fitment around the stainless tubes thus far.
Will keep you informed about it

Hi, I've a question regarding the middle assembly. Can we use 2 "J-NutLock" instead of the "J-Spacer"? it would be just redundant or it could cause problems of some sort?

It would add friction/drag and possibly over constrain the screw, not a good idea.

Good to know, thank you for the quick response.

Hello, could it be possible that the 125mm screw is too short to get the nylon lock nut? a 130mm one seems more appropriate.

Changed it, sorry. I don't have metric hardware readily available.

Is this a complete print list for this printer?
And is there any build instructions somewhere?

Dumb question I'm sure but what is the difference in the "M" parts?

Just mirrored versions. You should be following this list to make things the easiest. http://www.vicious1.com/blog/parts/

That was quick! That's kind of what i figured and how I printed them but just wanted to be sure. Thanks

You should not mirror them, you should be printing them as is, I have already mirrored them for you. Just want to be clear

Just glancing, the design improvements since my build are very, very clever. Wish I had your knack for mechanical design.

Thanks, but if I really had a knack for it it would have taken three revisions to get here! HAHAHA we are all our own worst critics I'm sure. Now I'm taking a little design break and getting it dirty! Making a video right now.

You literally posted this on the day I finally managed to get some 25mm tubes!! https://youtu.be/ccV_lZQTn7w

I already printed the 25mm parts anyway, so it wouldn't have made a difference ;)

Thank you for bringing this version out though. It's much easier to get 25.4mm in the UK - wardrobe hanging poles are perfect and much cheaper than the ERW I managed to find.

So cool. Sorry about lagging on the 25.4....

Thank you for this! Now I can start printing the parts :)