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MP Mini Select 3D PLA & PETG 40mm Fan Shroud

by FDM_Guru, published

MP Mini Select 3D PLA & PETG 40mm Fan Shroud by FDM_Guru Jul 17, 2016
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Summary

Greetings,
This is a replacement hotend fan shroud that significantly increases layer cooling for cleaner printing with PLA, PETG and any other filaments that benefit from extra cooling.

My original goal was to implement a shroud design that allowed for symmetrical cooling from both sides of the nozzle. Due to space and weight considerations of the compact hot end/cantilevered X axis and the inability of 40mm fans to generate much air pressure I have arrived at this design at least for the interim. This is still very much an active project, so please test and comment. Future versions will explore dual fan and cage fan options.

Here are two fans I would reccomend. The 40x20 version is fairly loud but very effective:

40x10
http://amzn.to/2em3zOk

40x20
http://amzn.to/2e6MNUO

Update:
Ran through STL repair for potential S3D issue. Default orientation is now the simplest way to print, no support required.

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I want to print and use this but I'm not great with electronics. Do you know of a good tutorial on hooking up the new fan?

Thanks!

I just printed this and will install it tonight. Do you print with the fan speed at 100% after its installed or would I have to tweak it?

I'm just scared that the increased airflow will prevent the nozzle getting to temp and maintaining it. should I instal this then perform a pid autotune?

Definitely run at 100%, the whole point of this design is to increase part cooling for better prints :-) The heater cartridge has plenty of power and will have no problem maintaining hot end temp, I wouldn't worry about a PID tune unless you see temp fluctuations greater than 4 or 5 degrees during printing.

I have been using this printed in PETG for a while and I like it. However, the spring clips are no good with or without this shroud. I have tried something. I let the lip rest on the hot end and then clinch it with a zip tie carefully around the back. It does get with the belt some but since it moves with the belt that shouldn't be an issue. There is no direct contact between the zip tie and the metal. Of course if you want it off, you have to clip the zip tie, but they are cheap and plentiful. Takes about a minute of no frustration to attach now.

Hi I'd like to know if it's worth it. I know faster cooling = better print quality on PLA. I was wondering if anyone has done twice the same print and were able to either increase the print speed or quality with this change.

I'm just unsure if I should go ahead and do it or wait :) Thanks for your answers!

Anyone running to an issue with the new fan (in my case the 40mm x 20mm version) not getting enough amps? or at least I think that is what is happening. I hook it up, set the fan speed to max, and it just hums; no movement. New fan is 12V 0.15A versus the old one at 12V 0.12A

I've not had any issues with the .15A fans; perhaps the leads have a poor connection on the fan PCB?

I'll check, thx. I'm waiting on some JST plugs to come in so I can easily swap out the fan with minimal soldering. I'll give an update once I've got everything together.

Sorry forgot to post an update once I got the JST plugs in. Pretty sure the fan that I got was drawing to much power and blew the fan controller chip. Now the fan just runs non stop when the power is on. Not sure what I did wrong, but I ended up getting the fan working with a separate power supply (8 AA batteries).

Shroud works great though, drastically improved the quality of my prints. Very happy.

I dont have JST plugs and I have used and old motherboard like RESET, HDD LED, POWER SW etc connector in the wire that come from the board, and solder the pins male in the cooler, and it is easy to change it, best regards!

I'm having the same issue...

I've not had any issues with the .15A fans; perhaps the leads have a poor connection on the fan PCB?

I don't feel like my fan is putting out a lot of air. Could I have installed it wrong?

Which fan are you using?

Dec 9, 2016 - Modified Dec 9, 2016
ryangtromero - in reply to FDM_Guru

This fan. Noctua A-Series Cooling Fan Blades with AAO Frame, SSO2 Bearing (NF-A4x10 FLX)

Could we get a ABS version of this? Same 40mm fan design just closed of at the height of the T support struts?

This design needs air to pass through the fins for cooling. I would be concerned that cooling would be insufficient if it was blowing into a closed off cavity, and if you vented it would of course cause warping and splitting on your part. Did you have an issue with my ABS shroud, or do you just want to be able to use the same fan? (if the latter, I use a connector to swap between fan/shrouds)

This is a great upgrade! Thanks for sharing. My 30mm fan was noisy, and this component with my beefy 40mm fan is so much smoother and is easier to get in the right position (The old shroud floats around, this one has a stop). It feels very solid and needed minimal cleanup. My first test print came out great with no problems. My only minor issue was the spring clip was harder to get on (less of a lip for it to catch on), which is probably due to imperfections during my print. I wonder if there is a way to make a more aggressive catch for the spring without making the spring harder to remove. I haven't had any melting issues near the nozzle, but it does seem very close to the uninsulated part of the heat block. I might add a piece of insulation on the exposed parts of the heat block as a precaution, in case the fan spins down for some reason.

I had the same issue with the spring clip. I removed one of the spring and heated it with my soldering iron holding it with plyers. I then pushed it in place where it will end up on the part and it melted the plastic perfectly into place. Fits incredibly well! Now I just need to buy a fan and find a clean way to wire it...

Thanks for the feedback, I do need to revise the spring catch as it is not optimal. I used PETG for mine, and after the first print I found a small melt spot on the side next to the thermistor clamp but after that it never deformed any further. PLA I can't speak too but you may find a little more deformation on the side next to the heater block.

So I'm working with this fan shroud now, but it seems like my nozzle can't even get up to temperature (240) after I installed this with a 40mm fan, as it's blowing directly on the heater block.. Did I install this wrong or is that supposed to be an issue?

I have found that using a powerful fan at more than 70% with this model causes some issues with default PID (temperature control) settings on the current firmware version of the mini. Here is why: When the hot end gets within 10-12 degrees of set temperature, it greatly lowers the power output of the heater to "ease into" the specified temperature without overshoot. The problem occurs because the heat loss due to air blowing on the hotend matches or exceeds the heat generated by the heater at it's reduce power output. The hotend thus never gets to temperature unless you adjust your PID variables to compensate. For me, running my fan at 50% or less still provided more than enough cooling without causing this problem, so I would recommend you go that route instead of changing PID. For the model itself, it would be interesting to see how the output stream could be adjusted to reduce cooling of the hotend. I might try having it inhale some smoke while shining a laser near the hotend to see the path of air. Fun stuff!

Sep 9, 2016 - Modified Sep 9, 2016
jasonjones - in reply to dantheflipman

I run this shroud with a 40x20mm (TALL) fan that puts out a LOT of air, I can easily get my nozzle up to 245c and hold without any problems, I can get it higher as well without issue. The fan shouldn't be keeping it from warming up, if it is, you have other issues at hand.

Yeah, that's the same fan I have. I agree it's puts out a ton of air. But I have to lower my fan speed to 10-15% just so my nozzle can heat up past 220. Which is an issue because the fan always turns on full blast when it's trying to beat up for the print -.- could this be my PID settings? I have a pretty damn good 12v 10A power supply. Do the bottom innermost edges of your fan shroud curl and melt a bit from heating past 230 ish?

Mine does not curl or have any heat damage otherwise. Why 230? That is a bit too hot for P:LA which is about all I'd try to print with this shroud. For ABS I use a different one without a part cooling vent.

I've been using this shroud while printing PTEG, so there's my mistake :p
I just printed that nozzle delete fan shroud FDM_Guru mentioned in his reply, so I'll give that a go. I personally was using this shroud in hopes of reducing stringing with PTEG

Hey Dan,
Correct, this shroud is primarily for PLA at 200-210C. I have used it with PETG at 230-240 (if your PSU is weaker, it may not be able to do even that) but PETG doesn't need the extra cooling nearly as much as PLA does. For ABS and Nylon you want zero layer cooling and should use this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1676667

MP Mini Select 3D ABS & Nylon Fan Shroud
Sep 3, 2016 - Modified Sep 3, 2016

This is a great solution, and a nice upgrade from the stock setup. A quality 40mm fan moves considerably more air, allowing for better cooling of the troublesome heat break, and for cooling of the print. The vertical mount keeps the center of mass close to the belt, where it belongs, which is key to decent print quality and speed, especially on a cantilevered design such as the MPSM. I'm really looking forward to a dual fan version, so that advanced fan control can be used on the print fan without compromising the cooling of the heat break.

Thanks for the feedback! A 2 fan design is high on my list although trying to keep the weight and bulk low due to the compact, cantilevered X-axis has proven challenging!

Comments deleted.

What do you mean by this design "removes the cooling nozzle for easier printing with PLA, PETG and any other filaments that benefit from extra cooling"? Don't you want the cooling nozzle for PLA & PETG? & it looks like there is a nozzle in the images. ??? I'm confused.

Aug 18, 2016 - Modified Aug 18, 2016
FDM_Guru - in reply to bugeyed1

That is what happens when I copy/paste...face palm. Thanks for catching it!

OK, I'm new to all this & I thought I was making progress. I also mentioned this on the FB group, so I will update that. Thanks for the quick response.

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