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Cristelia - Open Source LCD SLA resin printer [ DayLight ]

by dvjcodec, published

Cristelia - Open Source LCD SLA resin printer [ DayLight ] by dvjcodec Jul 19, 2016
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Summary

Cristelia - Open Source LCD SLA resin printer, based on Retina 9.7" LCD screen.
Total build cost under $250.

If you like this design - please donate on my PayPal -> [email protected]
Thnx!

Build area: 200x150x285mm
Resolution: 0.097mm (XY) / 0.05mm (Z)

Frame was build with cheap 40x20x2 aluminium extrusions:
4x 220mm
4x 270mm
4x 495mm

Z-axis:
2x LMK12LUU bearings
Nema 17
TR10x2 trapezoid screw 430mm + round nut
6200ZZ bearing

Soon more details and files !!

Full build topic on best technical Polish board - Fabrykator.pl (in Polish only)
http://www.fabrykator.pl/board/viewtopic.php?f=87&t=394
and official website - http://www.cristelia.pl

Electronic and Z axis test
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wRIxj7TJfaY

Change log:
19:08 19.07.2016 - fixed buildplate holder - now adjustable in Z axis
18:16 20.07.2016 - add upper Z axis holder STL for linears and 6200ZZ bearing
22:10 20.07.2016 - add Z coupler STL
11:12 21.07.2016 - add Z endstop holder STL
11:33 22.07.2016 - add new XYZ adjustable holder for buildplate
16:36 23.07.2016 - add VAT .dxf (plexiglass 5mm)

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Has anyone figured out the LCD issue? My co worker and I have been looking into it ourselves and so far have been running into walls with information.

witch slicer/software do you use?

looks good cant wait for this thing to be finished

So can you build this without a laser cutter? It looks like one of the files is laser cut.

Is this SLA or DLP? Looks like a DLP printer projecting from a screen rather than actually drawing the slice the way SLA does.

Any updates? I would really like to build one

Where can you get resins for this kind of display?

found the resins here... https://photocentric3d.com/liquid_crystal_10/?v=9b6a28c805e0 but i am still clueless about which LCD is being used in this type of printer and where to get them?

Did this project die? The last video to be uploaded was a year ago, any updates in that time?

Imho just buy a D7 for 500€ that is basically the same thing

A lot of us enjoy building our own printers, and the D7's 2.5 inch x 4.5 inch bed isn't remotely similar to this project's ipad screen area. I'm sure it's a great machine, but it's not a direct competitor to a large scale DIY project.

The author has a problem with choosing the right lcd. To help it was organized a fundraiser to buy lcd for testing. The author plans to resume work on the project in early July. I am also looking forward to completing the project.

So does anyone actaully know how to build this thing? I have been trying to get advice and so far I have come up with nothing too helpful other than what I can glean from photos and poorly translated polish/german forum posts.

Hello, very nice design, I want to donate as well. I want to extend the X axis a bit, I am using a 10.1 4K screen instead of ipad. For example I will use a 500mm threaded rod. On the description it says 430 for your rod. Is it enough if I add 7cm to all vertical lengths in this design? I mean for example 7cm higher aluminium extrusions?

Where did you get the 10in. 4k screen?

Hi,

is it possible for you to adjust parts that I can use my 16mm calibrated steel rods instead 12mm? I see that now it uses 12mm.

That would be just awesome. Or you can just send me parts that need to be changed (if it is SolidWorks) and I can change that myself.

Dec 14, 2016 - Modified Dec 14, 2016

Are you able to get the colour output needed for curing the resin with an LCD screen? I have some concerns it may not work, as it's a pretty precise wavelength, and depending on the LCD, it may not be reproducible. Have you thought about using a monochrome OLED display and a light filter that only lets light at 450nm through? I feel this might be easier to reproduce.
Also, You should think about adding walls to the side that'll filter all wavelengths that would cure the resin (such as an orange or red tinted acrylic).

Nov 14, 2016 - Modified Nov 14, 2016

I built a printer as well, I am using Ramps, Abusemark Display Driver, Repetier and Creation Workshop in an Windows VM on my Mac. First dry run works!
Details in german, a lot of pics:
http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?336,716806

I have got the first amazing results! Follow the link above

That's amazing!! Great work! I started this a few years ago but high-school and college have since put it on the back burner. I am so glad to see someone who's made such great progress with this!!

Amigo,qual software e tela de LCD você utilizou? Por favor,finaliza o projeto,quero muito construir um igual.

So glad I found this! Started looking into a similar build myself. So far I have

  • Ipad 3/4 retina display
  • Abusemark driver (for micro display port)
  • All the hardware I need
  • Daylight curing resins
  • Time (because with the standard LEDs in the ipad screen, curing time wont be fast but I dont really mind too much).

What I dont know yet is the firmware, or the software to use - I have spare ramps boards, spare CNC shields (with Uno) - do you have any firmware I can load up? :)

Thanks!!

I just started the same project with a LG LP097QX1-SPA2 Display. I will use this Adapter:
http://abusemark.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=47
Backlight and brightness is controllable with buttons an over serial USB connection!

Hello, how far have you gotten with this project? I am seriously considering to construct one as well.

Hi,

I have to stop for a while - a lot of business work :( I will continue to the end of the year.

Good to hear. Will be starting the printing process on your work in the next few days. ... Definitely keep us updated on the progress. ... Excellent work thus far. ....

I ordered all parts and started with CAD Drawings - I want to make my own Design. I bought the original Photocentric Buildplate and VAT FEP Film to get the knowledge which materials and film thickness they have chosen. Buildthread just started today! Look at http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?336,716806 Sorry, it is german...

disappointed this project is dead

Is not dead. I need 2 months to finish other works and I will continue work with this printer.

Is it still dead?

have you completed this project? is the screen with UV back lighting working?

Where did you source your aluminum from?

Hi !! Good Night,
Which do you use electronic cards? Which software do you use? Where can I find the code?

what LCD that you use? you can put some link?

Read the comments any You will find answer for Your question.

I'm wondering: as a LCD screen is lightweight, why not lift up the LCD (and the glass), instead of the object?
The object would stay immersed in the resin; don't know if it is a problem...

I think you answered it. The object would stay in the resin, the LCD would not. Therefore, the LCD couldn't cure the resin from a distance.

Oct 30, 2016 - Modified Oct 30, 2016
fma - in reply to AbuMaia

No, the object would stick to the bottom, so the resin would go above it for each new layer, close to the LCD...

Oct 30, 2016 - Modified Oct 30, 2016
AbuMaia - in reply to

Then you'd need a much larger/deeper resin tank, risk submerging the LCD in the resin, and/or have to add more resin to the tank every layer. Then you'd have to have a way to drain the tank to access the object.

My idea is to put the LCD in a PMMA box...

Which would still require a large tank to cover the object, and increase the amount of resin being used. Moving the LCD seems to me to be adding too much complexity. Keep things as simple as you can.

It does not change anything about the tank, and the complexity is the same.

In that case, I have no idea what your concept is. Your descriptions seem contradictory.

The setup is the same: you have a tank at the bottom with the resin.
For the moving part, the plate is replaced by a little tank, with a transparent bottom, where you put the LCD.
You may need to use higher sides for the main tank (depending of the size of the objets you want to build), but this does not enlarge the machine.

I want to know. I am sure if we can find a way of continuous going up and light stay on . The same way as " http://newpro3d.com/ " is using. Then all our printers will be fast. They only start a few millimeters above glass. So printing starts right away at built bed where it is focus so when it go up it go slow up, not stopping at any time and when it go up it go exactly as it suppose to layer y layer but this time layers is not split but 3d object is been extracted from one point to the end like a preview of printing program. Is this possible to change the program we work with to do this.

This screen needs a computer with a display port out due to the high resolution.so you either need to buy a new computer if yours does not have a display port or buy a 1080p screen with an adapter with hdmi output.

Hi dvjcodec,

There are no more information to build this Open Source LCD SLA resin printer.

how to build the extruder for exemple.

how build the electronic. using an adruino for exemple or a rasberry.

Because i never build a printer.

could you help me please?

thank for your help

This is a SLA resin printer; there is no extruder! The only axis is Z, to lift-up the bed.
Look arround the web, you should find some similar projects, with more details how to build the driving part.

I think this is a very cool project.. ! Did you have any succesfull prints with it yet?

If i understand it correctly LCD'S today have a uv filter that makes it impossible to harden normal resin. Is that why you have decided to use daylight resin?

Which speeds and layer heights are you getting with this thing?

Would a old full hd LCD panel from a tv work?

Project is unfinished, no prints yet. I need to design new VAT with FEP foil and it is all. After this I hope Cristelia will print :)

Looks great! Have you printed anything with it yet?

Great project! I didn't know there where daylight resins.
Do you think this display is OK: https://www.adafruit.com/products/1931
The pitch is a little bit lower, but it costs much less. Don't now about contrast/backlight power...

normal LCD iclude UV FILTER. So, i think can't use normal's LCD. is There a knack in doing it?

Great project dvjcodec !! thats a briliant idea!
have you printed any object yet? we would like to see some videos of the whole process
how long does it take for curing one layer?

Hi dvjcodec!
Please upload picture or video of test print and printing with this printer
thanks
Best Regards

could this be build with a lcd from a old laptop

What driver for the Retina 9.7 "LCD screen you use?

thank you

Does an HDMI to DisplayPort cable?

Hi

I have a HP Pavilion 6000 LCD display that can be used?

thank you

If you have driver for it - why no? You can use any LCD. Better screen's resolution - better final print results.
Prohocentric 3D in Liquid Crystal 10" use 1024x600 pix.
Most important is contrast and backligt power - more light = faster layer time.
You can try make custom backlight for screen with leds if needet.

The agony of choice ;)

I also have a HD Ready DLP Projector e Machines - consuming more electricity.

Your project or design also pleases me very much, consuming less power with LCD.

Another solution would be to use a laptop, an old Dell Lattitude [email protected]", for example.
This gives a large surface, with pretty good resolution (0,17mm X/Y).

fma - in reply to

Or, just use a smartphone! My son has a Huawei Honor7, with full hd screen.
The smartphone could even drive the Z axis, through BT com with an arduino...

If i use UV leds under the screen like in the ibox nano. Wouldn't it speed up the curing time..

Thank you. I have this resin already. Another question please. The light from the LCD display. Is it enough or do you remove the light and replace with something else like a UV light ??

Is original light from LCD. I found info about curring time - 50-60 sec. per 0.05mm layer (with semi contrast on this screen). Contrast and brightness power depend from driver. At now I have driver without posibility to adjust contr. and bright., but wait for another one, who can do this.

If i use UV leds under the screen like in the ibox nano. Wouldn't it speed up the curing time..

UV for 380-420nm resins, 460-480nm (royal blue) for daylight resins. I think, change backlight will speed up curring time.

Thank you

Just one other question please. What resin you intend to use that uses so low light from LCD. And where do we buy it

Jul 23, 2016 - Modified Jul 23, 2016
dvjcodec - in reply to Adolph

Is a typical resin, curring in visible blue light 470-500nm. U can buy in Photocentric
http://www.photocentric3d.com/#!daylight-resin/nen21
or Bucktown Polymers
http://bucktownpolymers.com/zve200-v470.html

This project is great. You just need a peel system on the vat then it is 100%.

Thank you! I have QSIL 216 optical silicone - will to use into VAT. When receive package with FEP film I make flex VAT.

Is there an STL for the vat?

Not yet, I'm working on it

Can you post how to build this?

Jul 19, 2016 - Modified Jul 19, 2016
dvjcodec - in reply to HittmanA

Bild instruction is no needed i think.

  1. Print 8 corners
  2. Cut aluminum extrusion to 12 pcs as described.
  3. Put extrusions to corners - 220mm [Y], 270mm [X], 495mm [Z]

Soon I will add DXF's with two aluminium plates.

  1. Print all Z-arm elements: 3x knob, 1x spliter, 1x arm, 1x adjustable holder.
  2. Needed screws to asembly arm: 2x M8x50, 1x M8x60, 5x M8 nut, 2x M8 washer, 2x M4x8 allen screws

Rest is visible on renders. Any problems - post comment :)

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