I wanted to print on a glass plate with my CTC Dual as I had torn the 'stock' Kapton tape that they had pre-installed on the aluminum heated bed. I liked 4KoeTTer's design, but living in the US, I can't get the Metric picture frame glass that he designed it for, and I didn't like the idea of using just 2mm thick glass anyways. So I decided to use a thicker glass that's readily available in the USA. I chose 1/4" thick (approx 4mm) 12in square mirror tiles from Home Depot, which I cut down to the 240mm x 140mm dimensions that the original design was for.
Note that due to the thicker clamp, you'll need longer bolts for the glass clamp for my re-mix. Optimally they'd be 22mm long, but I only had 20's (too short) and 25's (too long), so I'm using 25's with 6 washers, LOL!
Here's the relevant part of 4KoeTTer's original text, translated to English and tweaked a bit for my re-mix:
He designed the dimensions for a picture frame size of 240x180 - but this size isn't available in the USA, so as mentioned, I just bought some 12" square Mirror tiles from my local Home Depot and cut them down to approximately 240mmx180mm. It's very easy to do this with a glass cutter and a straightedge.
Note that with my re-mix, the "Active Duct V2" - thing http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:537918 touches the clamps just a little bit, but that is probably due to my E3D Hotend setup (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1655253) - So I'll probably do a variant of the clamps to be slightly thinner to keep this from happening. (But alas, since I'm not printing anything that requires a fan currently, it may be a while, LOL!) ;-)
Caution: Don't forget to tighten the bed screws down before attempting to level the bed - before your first print on glass. And even then, with 1/4" glass, you may have to adjust the Z axis Min end-stop to get a couple more MM of clearance! ( I had to! )
4x countersunk screw ISO 10642 M3x16 (The stock screws are too short to use these mounts)
4x hexagonal M3 nuts (Can usually re-use the ones on the corner mounts already)
2x self-locking hexagon M3 nuts
2x Hex-Head M3x22 screws (if they even make 22mm long screws - I used 25mm and 6 washers to 'shorten' them to ~22mm)
This part should be printed in ABS, as other plastics (PLA and PETG for example) will soften too much when printing ABS parts with a heated bed!
Supports are needed to support the overhangs, or the quality will suffer a lot!