E3D dual head on Velleman VERTEX K8400 with space gain and light

by Bo_Ris Jul 31, 2016
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Thanks for the intel. Design for main board cover looks great. Yet another item to print.

Hi Boris,

Thank you for the quick reply. It is the same procedure to change the firmware for 1 extruder to 2 extruders, as described in the manual from vertex? I only have to change the x and y positions you mentioned before doing that. And do you need to remove the programming shunt? I went from one to 2 extruders and just left it there.

Thank you again for you help.



Yes, the procedure is the same; just follow Vertex manual.

The only function of programming shunt is to allow firmware updates. Without it the chip storing firmware is in read-only mode.
Printer will work with the shunt just fine, but it is better to remove it to protect firmware from unexpected changes that can be caused for example by corrupt gcode file. My mainboard has this cover: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2669448 and I connected JPROG pins to toggle switch for convenience.


K8400 Mainboard Cover (Rev.2)
by Bo_Ris

Hey Bo_Ris,

Love the design. I’m planning to do this build. I ordered all components. One question still. If you make the changes in Marlin do I do that on my laptop where the software is installed? And do I need to upload that to the printer afterwards? I’m a rather new in the 3D printing world.

Thank you very much.


Hi Tim,

Yes, Arduino IDE runs on laptop that should be connected to your printer with USB cable. Update configuration using Notepad, or inside IDE. The file name that loads firmware into IDE is called Marlin.ino.

Follow the instructions posted here https://manuals.velleman.eu/article.php?id=31

Here are few things to consider:

  • Arduino IDE should be version 1.0.6. Newer versions will give you errors.
  • Before running Arduino IDE close all other applications that may use USB connection to you printer (Cura, Repetier, etc.).
  • Choose correct board type and serial port in IDE.
  • Unplug AC power from your printer while flashing firmware.
  • Place the PROGRAMMING SHUNT on the JPROG pins to allow firmware update.
  • In IDE click Verify/Compile and then, if no errors, click Upload.
  • After flashing firmware reload EEPROM settings as described in the manual page (see above link)
  • Finally, remove Programming shunt.

Best regards,


Nice design!

But im wondering how you configured the temperature settings? in marlin(1.1.8) i got nr5 but i need the head to be at 240C too print PLA propely... which is weirdly high... Got any idea's?

E3D on Vertex K8400 (Rev 2)
by Bo_Ris

Can you tell what is the Max Temperature (°C) you can reach with the original Heater cartridge that have to be used?

It really depends on the amount of airflow. In this original design posted here the maximum I was able to reach was about 223°C. To go higher you need to reduce the airflow. Here is my 3d printed solution: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1887647 which allows to reach temperatures over 240 degrees.
The simpler approach would be to replace 15 Ohm resistor that I used with 18 Ohm, or even higher.

E3D dual head on Velleman VERTEX K8400 Air Intake
by Bo_Ris

Yep I already noticed your Remix.
The Original Vertex K8400 is limited to 270 °C.

Can you tell if this is limited by Heater cartridge Or maybe because of the Original Hotend?
(so is it theoretically possible to Print with >270°C using the E3D v6 Hotend and original Heater cartridge?)

I don't see the reason why you cannot go over 275°C if you update the firmware, however you may need to check how precise is the termistor in that range. It has it's own settings in Configuration.h file that may need to be updated as well.
If you want to operate in such high temperature range, I'd suggest printing these things with more heat resistant material than PLA.

But just out of curiosity, what filament are you intending to use that requires such temperatures?

Well, good question ;)
Mainly I was just interested whether it's possible to use the full temperature range of the E3D v6 Hotend or whether it's still "bound" to the same temperature range as the original Velleman Hotend.

Thanks for your reply!

hello, i'm assembling the dual heads, but it's not printing correctly.
Can you give me your cura settings for compare please

I uploaded zipped Cura settings for single-head and dual-head configurations. Please use single-head settings as a reference, because I spent much more time tuning them than dual-head settings. The reason is - I mostly print with one head at a time.

Tank you very much for your upload

I'm sorry, I designed and printed this set over 5 months ago and I did not keep the Cura settings I had at that time. Since I was printing with original K8400 hotends, I am pretty sure I used the defaults settings of Repetier Host provided by Velleman.
If you can provide more details on what exactly is "not printing correctly", I will try to help.

I would like to know your actual cura setting with the E3D hotend. Can you extract your setting file please and send to me.

Sure, but you will need to wait until next week because I am out of town on vacation and have no access to the PC I use for 3d printing.

I'm assembling dual heads and I fell into a trap with cutting the E3D heat-sinks - I should have assembled them first, marked where the cutout should be relative to the heater/nozzle assembly, then filed the cutout. Maybe it was an obvious check to make but I discoverd my mistake too late. One heatsink is more or less lined up if I file away a little more on one side, but the other one is 90° out - I don't want to file away a lot more so I'll need to order another heatsink. Maybe it would be worth adding a comment, or am I missing something? I could adjust by lowering the nozzle/heat-break but then the nozzle would be a long way down - maybe more than I can adjust within the holder.

Holder pieces are designed in such a way that you can adjust vertical positions of heat-sinks before tightening the screws. This allows to vertically align the nozzles and compensate the difference in the positions of the cutout.
When i designed this thing I had only one E3D print-head and for some time I used printer in single head configuration. So later, when I purchased second print-head, I just cut it out without aligning with the 1st. I was still able to align both heads without a problem. I hope you have not ordered new heat-sink before trying.

I made an order as a precaution, in case I mess up the first set. I will try as you suggest but the height difference is quite big.
I suppose there is also the option to have the heater blocks at an angle to each other rather than 'inline'

(For some reason I received your reply via email 7 times! Must be a Thingiverse bug....)

Comments deleted.

It may be clearer when I look at the parts more closely but would a 40x40x10 fan work too? They seem to be more common where I am, but I assume it needs 20mm because of those long screws.

The long screws are not holding the fan. You can try to use 40x40x10, but you will get less airflow. You will also need to recalculate the value of the resistor and either modify the main thing, or the insert. If you succeed with this modification, please let us know.

Thanks, in the end I found a supplier so I'll go with the recommendation

I wonder, if this hole can be drilled into a Chimera or Cyclops cold end?
any idea on that... My Chimera/Cyclops set is on its way...

I don't think drilling is a good idea. I'd rather mount it under y-axis, or aside from it.

I will see, how the stuff is in general, and then I will decide :-)
But I will take your drawings as inspiration for my parts.

First mod will be the E3D Titan extruders, which I will compare to my mod extruders for Flex-material.
I guess they will be nice...

Comments deleted.

Hi Farnomat, I appreciate your comments. Unfortunately making video now, when the new print head is assembled and working, would mean taking it apart and then putting it back together. I'd rather not do this because fine tuning of double head hot-end is time consuming process. You need to do multiple two colored test prints to find exact X and Z offsets for Repetier Host's Printer configuration settings.
pipos81 and ZenImp56 were able to successfully build my print head using the instructions that I provided. I'm sure you will be able too. If any particular step needs additional clarification, please let me know and I will reply your questions here.

Yes, it works just fine with one head but you need to print and install dummy_e3d.stl thing as a replacement of the left head to ensure correct air flow.


Thanks for the reply
I've now printed all the parts and the instructions are easier to understand as i now know what is what and where it goes
It's still a genius design! I mean, fan duct, 2x e3d mount and LED's are just amazing in just one design! Anyway, thanks for the reply and i understand that you don't want to disassemble it again.

I'm glad you've figured it out. In the instruction I used thing file names and the names of the original parts as they appear in the Vertex building instruction. I yet need to publish Marlin, Repetier and Cura settings. Hopefully will have time to update the description this coming weekend.

Please post the picture of your build once ready.

I will definetly post a "make". Marlin settings would be great!

Just posted Marlin, Repetier Host and Cura settings.

Hi, is it required to be printed in ABS?

Not necessarly, I printed all parts in PLA.