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3dprintaddict

CubeX to RepRap Conversion Build - WIP

by 3dprintaddict Jul 25, 2016
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Does anyone have their INO file for a MKS Sbase or RUMBA board that I can get to start with?

Hello All, love reading these comments about how to make the CubeX Duo a better printer. I am an Automotive teacher who was given an CubeX Duo I have done my best to dial it in as is, and it still sucks so I am glad to see that their is a fix. how it is working now, and change would you do differently? Motherboard, switches, wiring..... has anyone put together a single parts list. so that I can do some shopping?
Thank you

I've created a forum to discuss conversions. I have mine dialled in nicely now using a late-model Rumba controller.

https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/cubex-reprap/forums

You should use the built in limit switches, they magnetic and function just like a mechanical switch. The only one I had to replace was the z-axis, but that avoids a lot of printed part mods.

When I first did my cubeX mod to make it open source, I used e3d-v6 (knock-offs, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010MSTVZO) and found I could turn down the hex shank of the push-fit connector to be the same size as the stock hotend, and this extended it to be the correct length. I've built this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2537620 to demonstrate.

I'm now using bowden (hopefully adapting https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1680034) with insight from http://www.prusaprinters.org/update-multimaterial-upgrade/ and http://www.prusaprinters.org/update-multi-material-upgrade-2/)

Make sure to upgrade the hotend with this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F82BMI8 or it'll be worthless for anything besides PLA.

Included a drawing of the e3d-v6 since it requires a model to post. Let me know if you want one, I can ship you one for shipping cost ($7).

cubex e3d adapter for stock extruder
3Dator Y-piece for dual extrusion with one nozzle
by 3Dator

Anybody know how to get the X-Axis bearings off the linear rails? I want to hack off some weight but it looks like you have to take the whole $#@%& frame apart. Already have had to deal with 2 stripped bolt heads- one of which i ended up grinding off with a dremel.

If the long 120mm X-bearing in the front could be shortened to the same length as the other 50mm bearing you'd gain another 70mm of X build volume.

Anybody have the pinouts for the X & Y connectors? Seems like way too many wires than the need to be lol

Nevermind. Traced it out and it was just that they ran the limit switches with the motor windings.

Hey everyone. I have started a new group for the CubeX conversions. If you're interested please join and start some topics.
https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/cubex-opensource
@Clwebb
@bolsoncerrado
@KmanOz
@FgDude
@3DMarius
@JimmyTime
@BladeTaylor22
@clintcav
@Woral

What hot ends come on the cube x trio?

Horrible ones....
http://www.3dsystems.com/shop/supplies/cubex
Print tip $107.00!

Go with E3D V6 use the adapter I made you have to cut the original ones that came with the printer.
I am working on a better solution but will take more time.

So they are pretty well useless? Ive seen people mod it and use the original extruders but anyway, I can get a Cubex Trio for free so planning to do this!

How did you get that top part off ? Dremel it? I dont think its threaded?

Bench Vise + Dremel with Cut-off Wheel
It's not threaded, it's one piece.
Once you cut it apart make sure the hole is clear and remove any burrs left behind.

For the wiring, did you wire in all new connectors? What's that terminal thing and are you using all the original steppers?? I would like to, I know I would have to wire the 2 y motors in parallel I think?

The only wiring I swapped was for the X-Axis due to interference I was getting with the Micro Switch.
All the other wiring I used the existing ones and made my own adapters to the rambo connectors.
Here are the stock header connectors I used;
WM4206-ND , WM4208-ND , WM4204-ND , WM4202-ND , WM4200-ND
Yes wire the Y-Motors to work together.
The terminal block I used for the Carriage wiring I got off ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-Position-Screw-Barrier-Strip-Terminal-Block-w-Cover-15A-/301819248282?

Link to how to wire those 2 y motors together??

If you plug one y into e1 then go into adv h and define dual why setup also define turn it in reverse directions

They are facing different directions so they need to be wired together like so;
RED-BLACK
BLUE-GREEN
GREEN-BLUE
BLACK-RED
Then you have to find the right way to plug it on the board or reverse direction in the firmware

You mean if you wire them in parallel or serial they need to be wired backwards? This is critical info.

@a_l_timmons_gmail_com_669
The goal is to get the motors to turn in different directions for the Y-Axis direction.
There are two options.

Option 1.
If you are wiring the (2) Motors to the same plug (driver) then the wiring needs to be like the following...
RED-BLACK (pin1)
BLUE-GREEN (pin2)
GREEN-BLUE (pin3)
BLACK-RED (pin4)
So all your doing is wiring one motor to be inverter manually with the connector opposite the other motor.

Option 2.
If you are wiring them to a board with separate drivers then you can just invert one in the firmware.

Hey @dvseliteus did you ever complete this WIP?

ALso didnt get that part where the russian fella tells you to use the stock sensor....to do what, exactly?

Thanks!

@bolsoncerrado
Still working away at it. I am working on a Dual E3D Titan Carriage with BLTouch Sensor...
I am also rewiring the entire machine with 22AWG stranded wires. Why? I'm tired of the messy stock wiring and adapter harnesses I made.
Unfortunately I can't spend much time on it these days but rest assured I am still working on it.

The Stock CubeX Sensors are small Reed Sensor that trigger when they come in contact with a magnetic actuator.
I didn't feel like messing with them so I swapped them out for good old mechanical switches... Just personal preference.

Do you have a CubeX you want to convert?

Yeah definetly. At the heavy discontinued price being offered, they're good machines. Just crap software and firmware handling the prints.

I was thinking on fitting my duet wifi on it with a nice 7" display replacing the small touchscreen and yeah, titan+e3d would be awesome to have aboard!

Any chances we can chat on pm?

Guys, I just purchased a CubeX Duo today for $230 USD here in Australia. I couldn't resist and it seems hardly used. I am making this my project as well mainly because of the quality of the running gear. I was also considering a DuetWifi and 7" display. Anyway just saying hi and am starting this adventure :D Would love to somehow be included in your discussion. Thanks ans keep up the good work.

I guess you meant you bought a CubeX Duo right? :D

LOL I had Duet on the brain as a controller hahahah. Yes a CubeX Duo is the printer I purchased. Been reading all night in Reprap. Intersting stuff going on. Anyway will keep reading. I think the DuetWifi is the go for sure.

@KmanOz welcome to the adventure...
If this is your first printer I recommend keeping as much stock as possible for the conversion. Get to know that Multi-meter and start finding out what wire go to what. Then you can start hooking up the new board to the correct components.
Maybe we should start a group for this?

No not my first printer. I have an electronics background as well. What I don't have is a 3D Design background but I will change that this year. A group is a good idea. I feel this kind of conversion for a CubeX is going to become even more popular. Thanks :D

@KmanOz
That's great you'll definitely want to print some upgrades.
I'll look into starting a group and I think your right 3D systems built a great machine just fell short by making everything proprietary/expensive.

@3dprintaddict
Still working on this? I have everything set to go except the extruders. Wondering how the Titan set up worked out.

Thanks for sharing these files, mine (conversion to ramps) is ready and printing, only waiting on my auto bed sensor to install.(on its way)
Also want to get the front update plug working, cable is on its way for that.
Have the original endstopst for X and Y axe and used a mechanical for the Z axe.
Also you find good info here: http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,707941,page=1
Cheers.

Thanks fgdude,
I am working on a custom bowden carraige and some other things for this build. I am hoping to update the build soon. Just pushed the Marlin RC8 update and testing the bed level feature.

So far so good at this moment.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WZxR2GEtsOs&t=46s

How are the works on the printer progressing over there?

@FgDude great video and nice seeing your printer in action!

It's one step forward and 2 steps back for me here. I was working on a possible bowden conversion but now I am leaning towards an E3D Titan extruder swap. A lot of modeling, printing and then modifying, repeat.
I am also looking to switch from induction sensor to BL Touch.

Hopefully things will get off the ground soon.

Thanks, I post a new video soon because 30 min ago I have finished the build, everything is in place again and it looks great.
The induction sensor works great to, the BLtouch seems to get more and more popular by the 3D printer builders.
But, if you ask me, I go for the inductive sensor any day, no moving parts, les wires and easy to setup.

Good luck on your build, and shoot a video now and then so we keep up-to-date ;o)

No thanks, looking forward to see your updates coming.
Have fun.

Thank you o much for sharing, I'm trying a similar conversion myself, except with ramps, which is what I have at hand. how did you get along with those magnetic endstops? also, awesome that you managed to use the original extruders and hotends, thanks for the heads up on the thermistor info!

Hey 3DMarius,
Thanks for the comment!

For the end stops I actually removed the fancy magnetic ones and used traditional mechanical end stops. You can see some in the photos.

I did get the original extruders and hotends working but I am just not happy with how it performs. I will have a huge update on this project soon as I am designing my own carriage to replace the stock one. This will be bowden style with E3D V6 hot ends mounts, I am hoping to get the prototype mounted near the end of the month.

The more I try to use the stock stuff on this printer the more frustrated I get. It's a great frame to build off of though. The ramps board should work okay just be careful to dial in your Z and E stepper voltage as it will overheat easily. Good luck on your conversion let us know if you find some good tips and mods!

Thanks much for posting all this. Started my conversion a couple days ago and will be able to use most if not all of this.

Hi Jimmy,
Glad to hear it! Let me know how it turns out.
I still have alot to go.

I converted my CubeX trio to a RepRap mod using a Rumba board not too long ago and it is fantastic! Overall only took about 5 hours to finish the entire conversion process. I used a majority of the wiring that was already in the CubeX, and installed mechanical endstops and used all metal e3d v6 hotends. Is amazing now! The only thing I have yet to do was install a headed build plate, but I use a Zebra build plate and they work fantastic!

I have mine working great right now. I don't have my heated bed in yet and no auto level but the machine is solid and holds adjustments really good so you don't need auto level. I am using the stock extruder and hot ends and have had really good prints. This is the setting I use, it's not perfect but very close. I had to make the target temp window a little bigger because it took too long to hit its target because the table isn't calibrated for the stock hot end. I use a 30 amp power supply set to 14 volts and it has no problems. I am using a sainsmart 2 in 1 and have had no problems after getting the firmware figured out.

200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (4.7k pullup)

Thanks clintcav for the info.
I hope to be following up with a big update next month.

Awesome! I have since swapped the Azteeg for a RAMbo 1.3 everything is working good except foe the extruders.
When the filament extrudes it studders and comes out like looking like a string of hard candy.
How did you adapt the e3d v6 hot ends?

Hi clintcav,
Glad to hear your doing the conversion. I haven't figured out how to mount the bed yet but I plan to remove the original glass bed insert and mount the cast metal plate with pad to the existing metal bracket plate. I will post photo's and models once I get that nailed down.
I'd be great to see some photo's of your project if you have them.
Good luck on your conversion!

I am building one now with a rumba board instead. Are you going to use the aluminum plate under the original bed as your print bed with the silicone pad underneath? If not where is your metal surface for your auto z? Thanks for sharing

Зачем вы лепите эту ерунду?! Датчик Холла прекрасно работает на ардуино! Зачем эти дичайшие концевеки?

Hi Woral,
I don't speak Russian but I am getting the following translation.
"Why do you sculpt this nonsense?! Hall Sensor works well on Arduino ! Why are these wildest kontseveki?"

I'm not sure how to reply here. I sculpt this nonsense because I want a big build area and to be able to print specialty filaments at high resolution. I bought this printer cheap as a not-working for parts item and thought it would make a fun project.
Hall Sensors seem to be another good choice but I have the Induction sensor on hand and there is more documentation of using this sensor type in 3D Printers.

I could really use some help getting the Marlin firmware working so I can progress this build ans share it with the site.

The default in X Cuba are magnetic sensors (gray cylinders), which can be safely used in a standard Arduino "marlin" firmware. Only need sort out with wires. I, like you, Cuba won the half-dead, but tried not to destroy the native constructive. And the working field - 25x25 cm. Try to use original sensors.

Thanks for the advice. Good thing I kept all the original parts.
Do I need to alter the firmware? I have attached my configuration.h file but I am not sure if it is correct?

You do not need to change smtn. Simply connect the contacts of the sensor to "sig" or "s" and "-" on board ramps.
only need to check your sensors work on the "open" or "closed".

Okay I must have a problem in my firmware or wiring. I hooked up the original sensor to the board at the Zmax End Stop pins. When I move the Z axis it does not trigger to stop when it touches the sensor. Maybe I need to try hooking up an analogue microswitch to see if it trigger a stop?

This is an old post but the info may be helpful to others. The Z sensor is a magnetic reed switch that's mounted to the X-axis carriage near the extruders. It senses a magnet that's glued to the bottom of the stock glass bed plate (one of the round metal discs). In order for the Z to be homed, the glass bed must be installed properly and the X and Y axes homed. If this is not all done, the switch won't line up with the magnet and won't sense it. I kid you not!!

maybe you were endstops on opening, it is necessary to close.
What makes the printer head when a command is sent home?
and one more - home for CubeX is it left far side.

Sorry, sleeping)
Check the setting head in the position of the home (with hands), and a multimeter to check wires (they should issue a beep), and then taking his head in X and Y find out where a trailer axle. Beep goes out)

It hit me last night that the print bed moves down and the stepper wires are in reverse.
I was used to my prusa where the carragige moves up so I had reversed it.
I also had to disable this line of code: Line 318 - // #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN
Thanks for your help and great suggestions. It would be great to see your printers photos.