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Snap-on Filament Filter/Oiler

by idig3d, published

Snap-on Filament Filter/Oiler by idig3d Jul 27, 2016

Design Tools

OnShape

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Summary

Dog hair, dust, and other small bits might get pushed through your extruder compromising, or completely wrecking a print. After designing a couple filters that were simple slotted cups, I wanted something a bit more refined and lightweight. So I modeled this. Has holes to drop in a bit of oil if need be.

Printed as one piece. Should hinge should be loose or break free with minimal force.

Timelapse: https://youtu.be/lVMvGldjXS0

Print Settings

Printer:

i300 Pro

Rafts:

No

Supports:

No

Resolution:

0.16mm

Infill:

10%


Notes:

3 shells. I printed it in 3DXTech's Red ASA. Print two or more at a time to give the tab a bit more time to cool.

Post-Printing

I cut two pieces from a kitchen sponge (NOT the cellulose kind) to fit the case. Add a drop or two of oil to help PLA. Not certain if it helps other types.

Timelapse of three at different layer heights.

How I Designed This

I used Onshape to model it, and then about five prints to get it dialed in.

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Hello Dear idig3d :)

i have an Ultimaker 3 Extended version (2.85mm filaments) I wish to use NinjaFlex who is hard to no get block on the Bowden and dont block too on the feeder etc... :/

For my case of ninjaflex and printer can you please tell me which of your 3 files i should print ?

can i print them in ABS ? in 0% infill and 0.2mm resolution too ?

for Ninjaflex (some of my print need like 12hours to finish) do i need to put more oil on the sponge ? the best oil stay the Rapeseed Oil ? or better result with WD40 oil ? or teflon oil for mountain bike gear ? or 3 in one oil ?

i have actualy the teflon oil for bike and sun oil seed in my kitchen ^^ but i can go to buy any of the others if they are better % to succed even 1% more ^^

thank you for your answer and this print ^^

Hey! Great model, worked perfect on my printer. Thanks!

Hinge is stuck. Destroyed my print trying to close the lid. lol

Hey I was going to try and add on a tube for my 3D printer but I can't edit the files I download since it is an STL file. Would you mind sending me the file (preferably as a dwg file) so I can edit it?
I would obviously make this as a remix and credit you but I was curious. Thank you for your time

hey another question: why should i not use a celluslose sponge?

I don't think it will collect dust as well. Other foam has more nooks and crannies. It may work in a pinch.

Hello
Ik am planning to use this but because ik have a tube doesn't that mean there will stay lubricant in it?
And is this going to be a problem if i use rubber or bronzeFill?
Thanks
Tibo

Some people add a drop of higher-temp oil (often canola or the like) to help PLA. But mostly, I use it to keep my dog's hair out of the extruder. Too much oil, or any depending on the filament type, could adversely affect layer bonding.

No more clicking extuder motor. This has fixed an issue with my filament binding up in the bowden tube. Instant improvement.

Silly question, but what kind of oil are you using?

Not silly at all. Edible oil (to be safe) with the highest smoke point you can find. I'm currently using a refined sunflower oil. Looks like avocado oil would be best: https://jonbarron.org/diet-and-nutrition/healthiest-cooking-oil-chart-smoke-points

Thanks so much! I just started printing about 2 weeks ago, going on 3 weeks ago now. So much to learn! Looks like I will be picking up some oil. Thanks again for your reply!

No problem. Baby steps. Can seem overwhelming at times. Base layer is critical. Get your bed leveled. Print a couple skirts and manually dial (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:915845) in your bed to make sure the skirt lines are even and printing well. Slow down to start. You can slowly up the speed until something breaks, later.

Base not sticking? My fav is cheap dollar store picture frame glass (or mirrors but make sure it's glass) on 0.5mm thermal pads (sticky but not adhesive) and a few light coats of Aquanet hairspray.

Layers crack/split easily? Up the temp. Possible lower the fan speed.
Hairy prints? Lower the temp.

Try to keep a few notes as you go. Change only one or two settings at a time.

"It's all about the base. No trouble."

Di3 Thumbwheel Bed Dial
by idig3d

Hah this is great! What do you use to attach the glass? I've seen office supply clips? Can you use the heated bed with that or turn the bed heat off?

I have been using purple glue stick when things don't stick. Works well.

Definitely going to print those dials. Thanks!

0.5mm thermal pads. (http://3dprinterwiki.info/wiki/wanhao-duplicator-i3/duplicator-i3-basic-mods/adding-a-glass-bed/)
They are tacky enough to hold the glass without clips. I used a 100x100mm sheet cut into ninths (3x3) and works well with my 800x800mm bed. Make sure you remove the protective layers from both sides.

Used blue tape when I started. Some brands really did not work.Went through glue sticks, but usually messier and not always even. Used generic hairspray before getting turned onto Aquanet. Love Aquanet on glass now. Been printing with ASA (all the good properties of ABS plus less smell, warping and UV-resistant). A hot bed and a few coats of Aquanet holds really well. Prints pop off when glass is cold. A bit more expensive, but to me, better 'ink'.

Not certain of your printer and if the dials will fit, but very handy if they do.

Glad I could be of some help. Building up karma points.

Great little design. Didn't even have to force the hinge on it to close the first time.

Great! Thanks for the feedback and the picture of the make.

Thanks. Oil ports on both side. Just seemed logical.

ive used a similar design and filament wipers are soooo nice especially on bowden drive machines where the filament friction is an issue. I have since lost mine but like how the oil port is built in!

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