3D printed RC truck V3: Stock Frame

by MrCrankyface, published

3D printed RC truck V3: Stock Frame by MrCrankyface Jul 29, 2016
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16182Views 2639Downloads Found in R/C Vehicles


Finally got this up, been teaching myself yet another video editing software so the video itself took absolute ages to make.

This is the 'default' frame which lets you mount the driven front axle and a single rear axle(dual or single tyre).
You can also use this frame with just the V2 driveshafts and V3 rear axle if you only want a rear wheel drive truck, I'm planning to make a solid front axle as well for this purpose.
I have plans to release different layouts of these later if I'm pleased with the V3 platform.

You can check out the assembly video for this and the other parts over at my youtube

You can use the V2 gearbox and cab for this frame but the gearbox will probably skip/break if overloaded, works fine for driving around though.
Next step is to work out a beefier gearbox which can handle all the grip the AWD system provides.

Hardware needed:
8x M3x13-16 for the shocks
10x M3x13-16 for the front axle linkages
7x M3x13-16 for the rear axle linkages
2x M3 nuts for front and rear axle.
2x M3x13 for the center differential mount
2x 4mm diameter, 80mm long rods for the frame connection
2x M4x20 for the frame connection
2x M4 nuts for the frame connection
2xM4x10-20 for the servo

For more V3 parts, check out my V3 collection:

Check me out at:
Youtube: http://www.youtube.com/c/MrCrankyfaceProjects
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/mr.crankyface/
3d hubs: https://www.3dhubs.com/malm%C3%B6/hubs/mrcrankyface
Patreon: http://patreon.com/Mrcrankyface

Print Settings


The Frankenstein










Print it upside down without supports.

If you have a 20cm bed or bigger, you can print the regular "xxxxxframe1.stl", place it diagonally if it gets tight.

If you have a smaller bed you should be able to fit xxxxxframe1A and B instead, then glue them along with a 4mm diameter, 22mm long steel pin once printed.

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Whats the specs of the servo that is required?? can you post the link please?

Any standard sized servo will work.

Thanks I have them with me

Comments deleted.

First of all, thank you for this nice project
Do you happen to have a BOM for the entire project? I would like to order the non printable parts in advance. Thank you!

The full BOM would be something like this:
8x M4x20
37x M3x10
15x M3x10(Counter sunk)
72x M3x16
27x M3x8(Grubscrews)
22x 6700zz bearings
16x M3 nuts
2x M4 nuts
3x 18mm long, 4mm rods.
2x 80mm long, 4mm rods

You also need 8 rodends for the rear, 8 rodends for the front and 2 rodends for the servo linkage.

I used rodends with a 3mm hole in the ball and M3 thread in the 'neck' and used cheap M3 threaded rod to connect them.
Eye-to-eye they need to be these lengths:
Front axle Panhard rod: 89.2mm
Upper link: 82.1mm
Lower links: 91.4mm
Rear axle Upper links: 98.1mm
Lower links: 93.6mm

That's great info. Thank you so much!

@ MrCrankyface:

My printings are in the last Stadium, only some little Parts must be printed ..... And I am getting happier and happier for this Truck.
Very good ideas from your side, and perfect Videos for Assembling on YT. Once again I have to say: Thank you very much for this perfect fine piece you had created!

After take an look on the Assembling Video .... Which Diameter should have the "Rod Ends" to connect the Front-Axle with the Frame? Are this Rod Ends with 3mm inner Diameter for RC-Trucks?

Best regards

Very nice to hear! :)

The rod ends I used had a 3mm hole in the ball and 3mm hole in the rod end itself, so I used M3 threaded rod.
I have seen people use rod ends with a 3mm hole in the ball and 4mm threaded rod into the rod end itself though, so both should work.

Very nice work!
Can You share the SolidWorks file "TruckV3_Frontframe_1B" please? I have problem with mounting servo to the frame. I have Hi-Tec servo and this servo has mounting holes closer to servo body, so its mounting holes does not match with holes on the frame. I would like to adjust this part of frame for my servo. Modifying of stl files is very complicated.
Thank You very much!

Hi and thank you!
I was sure I had sent the files but I must've forgotten.
I see that you managed to fix it with a remix, great work!

Hi, thank You! It´s OK. It was good training in Solidworks for me :-). Now I have complete chassis and I am very happy! It is really great! Thank You for this truck model and I wish You many so great ideas!

This looks so good .... I started with printing! Thanks for all the perfect work you have done!

Please let me ask 2 questions:

  • Is there a download for the "wheels", I found only the download for the "rims"? Or is this a buying part?
  • What for an Motor do you use or recommend (Most time for indoor use, no rough outdoor)

Best regards

Thank you!

You can find printable tyres here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1408635, you can also buy and use 1:14 Tamiya tyres which could be cheaper(depending on where you buy them I guess).
I would recommend any generic 540 sized motor, there is limits to what the gearbox, differentials and so on can take so I don't think you will gain much by using a bigger motor unless you print the driveline from nylon or similar strong filament.

Printed truck: Tyres

Thank you very much for your fast and helpful answer!

Does anyone know if I can simply scale this to use #8-32 screws instead? @[email protected]

Awesome Military-esc truck styling!! Really like it! If I didn't already have a R/C truck, I would print this one! Quick question though, roughly what scale is this? (1/10, 1/24, etc) Or what are the dimensions?

Thank you! Shape-wise it's based of a TAM-110, scale wise it's around 1:14. I based my measurements of a 1:14 Tamiya truck so it's not entirely accurate for a TAM.
If I remember it correctly, it's around 45cm long and 22cm wide when assembled.

What material are you printing with? Your parts are very smooth in comparison to mine.

Pretty much all the pieces is black/grey PLA from Torwell.
If your parts doesn't come out smooth it might be a calibration or slicer issue with your printer but could also be bad filament.

I'm using ABS, could that be the problem?

Can't wait to see a 6X6 or 6X4 will be very interesting to see. I wonder if it would be possible to have a crawler ratio gearbox? Keep up the good work.

How slow would you want it to be for a crawler?
Current top speed is around 12km/h.

The crawler gears in a real truck are for the heaviest loads and steepest inclines, so probably 1/3 or 1/4 of the top speed.

It's roughly 18cm wide.

Can you recommend specs for the shock absorbers?

I bought these(mostly because they were really cheap at the time): goo.gl/hFXL2s
They work pretty good for tarmac/high speed but is a bit stiff if you want to go off-road.

Something like this is probably better for offroad/crawling: goo.gl/l6r19L

hi , awesome work you did there, thx to your project it made me in building a core-xy smartrapcore ,very similar to your Frankenstein
how about this 3d printed rod ends, can u use them in future
edit: nice ,looking forward to your project

Rod end bearing

Thanks! That's an interesting concept, I've thought about it before but didn't think it would work so I just skipped it.
Seeing as ngoodger had success with them, I shall design something similar and see if it's useful for the truck.

Those rod ends work really well you just need a 2-3mm spacer(I have used an M3 nut) to hold the ball away from the mounting point.

Could you please send tell me where do you get rod ends and rods from?
Links would be most helpfull :)

Great work! I really like the AWD version and I am sourcing the components to buid it :)


I got the rod ends from "Rcmart" on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/SSD-M3-Short-Plastic-Rod-Ends-Axial-Wraith-1-10-Car-Crawler-Off-Road-SSD00020-/131599972274?hash=item1ea3f837b2

The M3 rods I sourced from a local store but can be found pretty cheap on ebay as well, just search for M3 threaded rod.
For the differentials you also need 4mm diameter smooth rod, easiest is probably to order on ebay as well, just search for 4mm rod.

What kind of ball-joint link ends do I have to buy?

I think any rod-end with a 3mm hole in the ball should work, if they also have M3 thread where the shaft connects it becomes easier to adjust the length.