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dnewman

Unofficial Thingomatic Heater Board v1.1 r2

by dnewman Feb 5, 2012
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Hello,
Ive recently had the same problem of the heater board wires burning. Unfortunetly I know very (very) little about PCB's and was hoping you could help me please?
I have a makerbot replicator with 2 extruders. The board is approx 230mm x 150mm and have "replicator heater board REV B" written on it.
I thought the above file was correct but it seems to be a smaller plate??
I wonder would it possibly still work on my machine or maybe someone knows where I might find alternative files.
Sorry as said I know very little about PCB's so very much appreciate any help.
Hugh

Contact MakerBot support for a replacement heater board. Failing that, purchase one from WanHao. DO NOT PURCHASE ONE FROM FLASHFORGE as it is not an equivalent replacement. And, whatever you get from anyone other than WanHao may require you to do some wiring work (as in changing headers on one or both ends of the wires).

Is there any place that I can have the boards made. BatchPCB is not longer working.

BatchPCB still works. However, their name has changed. They are now Osh Park who acquired the Batch PCB service from Sparkfun. Osh Park is cheap but you buy things in units of 3. So you'll end up with three boards. You will also need to upload the eagle files to Osh Park. Fortunately, it is simple.

It will be crazy expensive for 3X boards...a 200x200 board will run you over $300 for a set of 3...
Now if you and 2 buddies went in for 1 board a piece it still ain't cheap!

When I did mine with BatchPCB, I think it was about $30 per board. BatchPCB was acquired from SparkFun by Osh Park. Not too sure how much they are charging these days but if it's still $5 / sq inch that would indeed be $320 / 3 or about $107 per board. Pretty expensive. I much prefer Gold Phoenix's pricing at around $110 per 155 sq inches. So that would be 2 for $55. Add $20 total if you need 2.0 oz copper. (I forget what this design needs.) Even then, that is still expensive.

OK. My current board actually lights up (red led) but it does not heat.

Thank you so much for making this and the excellent documentation. Mine just broke and I don't think MBI has anymore, so this may be my best hope.

Thank you. That is all. :)

Looks Great.

Not sure the motor traces needed more copper? But, if space why not?

No heat problem now?
I'd think your tab would have less heat effect than directly attached to the board. Guess, since no thermo calcs or proto testing was done (?) that boards in service time will have to show your good work. It
s great to have an option for all needing more access to parts.

SMD soldering
Out of thousands, not many have had problems with the SMD connection.

For those with the OEM boards and worries about breaks - Here is a tip: You can use a high temp epoxy, JB Weld gel superglue or like (Liquid Nails?
) on the wires and pads on the underside of the board. This will beef up the area providing a wider distribution of force to counter abuse.
:-D

Thanks. And no, the motor traces don't necessarily need to be larger, but it cannot hurt either since the space is there.

Actually, I did run some thermal comps and the tab may help a tiny amount or may not: depends upon assumptions made. At issue is that copper is a great heat conductor and we are, after all, talking about nice copper pins soldered right to the traces generating all the heat. I only saw a ~2C temp
drop caused by the tab for run times of 60 minutes (heater on got 60 minutes). However, I was using simulation software which I have pretty much no training in using so if I had to bet, I'd bet against my results. But, as I wrote in the description I wasn't doing this to solve the thermal problem
at the connector, I was doing this because of the connector-breaking-off-problem. A problem which I understand happens more than a few times.