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HPD F1 V2.0 A competition grade R/C car

by KentAsplund, published

HPD F1 V2.0 A competition grade R/C car by KentAsplund Aug 13, 2016
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4416Views 1020Downloads Found in R/C Vehicles

Summary

New generation of the HPD!

"To finish first, first you have to finish". One big problem with a 3D printed car is durability so the most important changes made have been with the aim to increase this. This has made that the weight of the car (mine is 1130g) is now above minimum weight (1050g). The added weight is not optimal but also not only bad as it is easier to get suspension to work well on a heavier car and acceleration is depending on good traction.

More improvements:

  • More narrow chassis to avoid it touching the ground when cornering.
  • Better differential.
  • Front wing is now using standard mounting holes (a close approximation to the not so standard standard) so you can use wings from Tamiya, Mon-tech, Serpent or use HPD wings on other F1 cars.
  • Front and rear wing are made with attention to aerodynamic rules.
  • Body is not needing clips for mounting.
  • Body is nicer looking.
  • Quick release battery clamp
  • Rear damper mount is now on a separate plate which makes it easier to adapt to different length dampers.
  • Nose cone is now screwed on place.

Discussion forum on Google+

Print Settings

Printer:

Velleman Vertex


Notes:

Material choice is very important for durability. Best results have been achieved with Esun PLA+ and PrimaSelect.

Nose and wing adapter should be printed in some semi flex material to be able to absorb forces in crashes without destroying the front chassis.

The cradle is difficult as it also need to withstand high temperatures without softening. PETG is an interesting option that is tested at the moment.

Print settings are usually:
0.2mm layer height.
1.6mm shell thickness.
20-25% infill

Recomended print settings for Nose cone:
0.2-0.3 layer height.
0.8 shell thickness.
0% infill.

Recomended print settings for Wing adapter:
0.2mm layer height.
2.0mm shell thickness.
50+% infill.

Most pieces are possible to print without support with following exceptions:

  • Main chassis.
  • Steering hub.
  • Rear axle.
  • Rear wing.
  • Front wing.

Instructions

Needed hardware

General stuff

M3 screws in different lengths 6/10/12/14mm
M3 Nuts
Tyres and wheels
2 * M4x20mm counter sunk screws

Rear Suspension

Appropriate spur gear (90T 48pitch) and diff balls.
Pinion (30T)
Ball bearing 10x15x4mm 2pcs
Ball bearing 8x12x3.5mm 2pcs
Axial bearing 4x9mm
Diff washers from X-ray or Serpent F1 (Serpent: 41186, X-ray:375080)
M4 threaded rod 150mm
M4 nylock nut 3pcs
G20 (3/4") 2mm thick hose gasket
48.5 mm shock absorber (Hobbyking: 9655000144-0)

2x front springs Xray/Serpent/etc. (X-ray: 372180)
2x side springs Xray (373585)

Front suspension

M4x30mm screw for front axles
brass tube. 4mm inside 5mm outside for front axle.
turnbuckles and ballends for steering
Ball bearing 5x10x4, 4 pcs

The usual stuff

Low profile servo
Servos saver (optional)
Electronic speed control
Motor (21.5T is recomended)
Radio,
Short LiPo.
Charger

The new differential outdrive and indrive is designed around a new gasket acting as spring and friction. It is accepting most, maybe all, differential plates and have been tested with serpent, hobbyking and x-ray.

Differential

It might be tricky to find the appropriate gasket/packing but it is well worth the effort as this is a major improvement in this version. The packing/gasket is named "G20" or "3/4 inch" and has to 2mm thick to work appropriate. the one we use in Sweden is made by Gelia and sold on Clas Ohlsson 30-7372

If you find other sources of this component in your country please put a link in the comments below

Assembly of rear axle

The following video is showing the principle of assembly of the rear axle. It is with the components of the previous version.

Participate and support

You may help and support by:

  • Testing and giving feedback (on discussion forum linked above)
  • Developing your own variant of components. Tag the item with HPD_F1 so that others can easily find it.
  • Post competition results and pictures. Here or on the forum.
  • Donate something through PayPal

Option parts

New cradle for more motors: Option cradle
More:
Thingiverse tag=HPD_F1

Tuning tips

These are the tips from the "Works Team".

Main damper

We are using 450cst oil and soft springs, I am usually using the softest spring in the series.

Side damper

Is not supplied with the kit but a relative hard damping is used. On the ones that are using plate damping (soon to be released) we are using 100 000cst.

Side springs

On a high grip circuit it you can go harder and on a low grip circuit softer.

X-Ray:
373584 C=0.6 - SILVER
373585 C=0.9 - GOLD
373586 C=1.2 - BLACK
373587 C=1.5 - SILVER
373588 C=1.8 - GOLD

Starting point for springs are the 0.9 (Gold) which works very well on slippery circuits.

Front spring

X-Ray:
372176 C=1.5 - GOLD (SOFT)
372177 C=2.0 - SILVER (SOFT)
372178 C=2.5 - BLACK (SOFT)
372179 C=3.0 - GREY (SOFT)
372180 C=3.5 - GOLD
372181 C=4.0 - SILVER
372182 C=5.0 - BLACK
372183 C=5.5 - GREY

The 5.0 spring is a good starting point.

Ackerman

You can adjust ackerman by using different holes on the steering hub. The holes furthest out is giving the most ackerman and thus most aggressive steering.

Differential

The smoother you set the differential the more forgiving the car will become. Setting the differential so soft that it is starting to slip is a good idea when you have slippery conditions. Just remember; it is plastic on plastic inside and too much heat will cause a meltdown.

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Firstly...awesome project :)

Which slicer have you used to slice and print these files? It looks like there are issues with at least one of the models and Simplify3D is picky when there are issues with the model.

As an example, the front chassis has some built in support...but when it is sliced that support is missing. So the object will not print successfully. But I tried to slice it with Cura 15.04 too and I got the same result there. So i'm curious how you managed to print it without using supports in the slicer :)

I am using slic3r but I know that others have been using Simplify3D.

Cura and Simplify3d is having problems with walls that are thinner than the nozzle, slic3r less so. If you have a bigger than 0.4 mm nozzle then the support walls can be lost. Adding supports manually will probably work.

Yup, I discovered later that it was the nozzle size that made some of them, not all though, disappear. Guess I will have to manually add supports to print them.

Do you have a picture of the interior? Like how you have the electronics laid out? And is this 1/10 scale so it has the same wheel base as the Tamiya Cars?

I will update with more photos.

Yes it is 1/10th scale and very similar to the other F1-cars on the market. You can use Tamiya wings and wheels on it and it is designed to be completely legal for F1 races.

In Sweden it we are now five people competing with it and we are doing reasonably well. You can win with it if the other drivers are your level ( I have managed to win 4 out of the last 9 races )

Excellent. I will get to printing this right away. I have owned a few of the tamiya cars and really liked them so I'm curious to see how this one handles. Thank you so much for designing this one! I'm already a nitro 1/8 scale on road driver so I'm anxious to run this car. My current car is a Mugen MRX5.

Pictures added

Please come back with your verdict and criticisms.

Thank you very much. I hope to start printing this very soon. I will definitely let you know what I think. I will take pictures as I go.

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