Hesine M505 - Anet A8 Upgrade Kit (Updated)

by msvml, published

Hesine M505 - Anet A8 Upgrade Kit (Updated) by msvml Aug 13, 2016
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Upgrade kit for Hesine M505 - Anet A8
updated/changed Y-tension and some other tweaks

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Hesine M505 - Anet A8









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What bearing does fit into the idler pulley mount of the belt tensioner? I tried a standard toothed idler but it doesnt fit. The "fork" is too narrow

Which screw is used for the x belt tensioner? In the pics, I see an M4 threaded rod but nothing pushing against the block to pull the tensioner back. Which M4 screw length would be needed? I guess something around M4x65 or M4x70?

There is a large screw pulling the tensioner fork with an M4x65/70while 2 M3 screws push back at the rods. It can be clearly seen in the pictures.

In the pictures, there's a threaded rod from what I've seen, not an M4 x 65/70 screw :)
Thanks for the reply

The hexogon head of the bolt cannot be seen as it is inside the fork/bearings holder. Open the stl file of the fork to view this. I have printed these parts, they are excellent. You should note that the parts are developed for ABS which has some shrinkage causing my rods to be a bit loose when printed in PLA so I derived my own idlers from these. The designer put the flangesfor the trapezium nuts at the bottom given the components more surface which is handy when you make the anti Z wobble things that decouple X from Z: https://www.thingiverse.com/make:313665

Anet A8 - Anti Z Wobbel TNG (Set)
by 0scar

is there any reason u turn the parts upside down when installed ?

It are not upside down. it's "by design".

the endcaps are a too tight fit on the threaded rod and causes them to hardly turn.

Different printers/slicer settings - different gaps.

Want to know if anyone has run into this problem? I printed both Xmounts but my smooth rods are about 1mm apart more on the Xmount1 side than on the Xmount 2 side? Printed with the same setting on 2 different prints?

Hey so i appear to be having a bit of trouble printing the right z mount. For reference, i'm using Cura (haven't had time to find and/or buy copy of Simplified3D). I'm at a bit of an impasse here. When i print it with supports it ends up filling in the bearing rod holes almost completely (no matter what i set the support density to) and if i don't the print goes to complete trash when i get to the last 3rd of the print (the gap at in the middle seems to be the issue on that). Any advice?

I used Slic3er; it will slice all the stl files correctly for you (used in combination with Repetier software). Note that removing the supports is quite a job, some stick pretty well to the object! I have not had any problems with the rod hole supports filling up the rod holes.

Maybe I am not completelly understand what you mean (I am Russian). I am used Symplify3D with her awesome support mechanism, and have no problem. Try other slicer. For example "CraftWare". It seems powerful at work with supports.

one word: A . W . E . S . O . M . E !!!!!

For some reason, Simplify3D does not like the Y_tension2.stl file. I will not slice it properly. It has something to do with the stl file itself. I redrew it in Solidworks and recreated the stl file. Happy to share if you would like!

Of course. Lets share!

Hesine M505 - Anet A8 Upgrade Kit (Y Tension Block)
by yoda2nd

the same here

Very happy with this upgrade, I needed a new X axis Motor mount cause the one that came with the printer was hosed. I struggled printing the motor mount though, the overhang for the motor kept getting build up that would knock it loose. I added a support block under the overhang and finally got it to print. I love the Z axis adjustment, but the knob hit the frame when the Z axis exceeded 185 mm. I made a smaller one
The Y axis adjustment took some work to get it to fit in the frame, but a bit of sanding got it.
Everything else was spot on dimensionally, I printed it in PLA.

Thank you for you hard work on this I would recommend this to anyone that has this printer.

Thank you for these models. May I ask you some questions on this set of yours, as I am currently trying to implement it?
I believe you have used PLA for the print, right? I attempted to use ABS (I had nothing else at that moment, and, being a total newbie, had only theoretical information about the printing material), which revealed at least two issues.
First, all round parts were printed as oval-shaped. In your opinion, is it caused by the type of plastic used, or is it just my (eventual) lack of skill when setting up and calibrating the printer?
Second, there appears to be a problem about the size of the final parts owing to the contraction. From what I read, I know that ABS prints shrink (at a rate up to 8%). To cope with that, I set the model scale at 1.08 in Cura. How do you deal with the size issue, if you do?
Overall, is it OK to use ABS for that (i.e. upgrades)? Can it be that I am just using the plastic which is not appropriate for the task?

I use ABS

If in .stl shape is circle, then it must be circle at print. If not, then use drill.

In my case scale = 1.0

is there a small BOM for this. like what screws and bolts did you use?

1 х bolt or screw M4х70 (in my case screw with nut)
1 х nut M4

What is "BOM"?

Bill Of Materials - basically what you added to the printed parts (nuts and screws and such).

Nuts are fixed with a small side play that (imho) reduces z-wobble.

But why you have moved the mounts for the "Z screws" to the bottom of the X-axis mounts?

Also interested. Author, is there any reason for this?

Nuts are fixed with a small side play that (imho) reduces z-wobble.
Also.. be different than other :)