My Rostock is being used as a demonstrator of 3d printing for several events where small children and adults want stick their hands into the printer. So, I made an enclosure that will use 12x24" sheets of 1/4" Acrylic. This also will cut down on drafts and prevent warping of large parts.
I have not oriented anything, you will have rotate the part so that you can print them. If you cant do this, you probably should learn before you attempt building this!
Coming soon; door handle and locking latch!
I used some bearings I had laying around for this. They measure 1.125" OD 0.5" ID and 0.375" thick. I may modify this for use with a more common skate board bearing in the future.
This will require
3ea 12x24" 1/4" thick acrylic in your choice of color
20ea 1/4-20x1" bolts
20 ea 1/4-20 nuts
40ea 1/4" flat washers
2 bearings that I listed in the description.
2 enclosure bracket
2 enclosure bracket (mirrored)
4 enclosure bottom bracket
2 Door bearing
Place 1 Enclosure bracket and 1 enclosure bracket(mirrored) onto the top of the acrylic, flush with the edge. Mark and drill 1/4" holes into the acylic. Locate 2 of the enclosure bottom brackets and dry fit them onto the bottom of the acrylic sheet and position the assembly onto your Rostock Max. Take some time to check clearances between the skate and the acrylic and make sure everything is centered. Mark and drill holes to mount the enclosure brackets to the top of the printer.
Now we are going to position the bottom brackets, fix them to the base and bolt them to the acrylic. With the enclosure brackets bolted to the acylic and the top of the printer position the enclosure bottom brackets so they look nice and are not covering up any screws or important holes. Take some masking tape and mask around the bottom to mark the position and protect the melamine. Mix up some epoxy and glue the enclosure bottom brackets into position. Once the epoxy has cured mark and drill the holes to bolt the acrylic to the enclosure bottom brackets.
Coming soon, mounting the door!