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IKEA Lack box for Prusa i3

by wawaChief, published

IKEA Lack box for Prusa i3 by wawaChief Aug 28, 2016

Summary

This is a customization of the IKEA LACK box. I've made some modifications to add an air extractor and a cooling fan. I've changed the bottom feet to allow the top of the box to be easily removed and inserted. You can see on the pictures the upper box removed.

Of course, you don't need to remove the top box to access the printer : the front plexi can be easily removed with the handle. It has the good dimensions to stay in place by itself.

I've made it for my Prusa i3 MK2 but it should work too for other repraps models.

Edit : If you need to print tall objects (Z>17cm), you will find that IKEA feet are a bit too short. I've made a tall version of the bottom feet supports that give more height to the enclosure. I strongly advise to use them. These are tall_support_plexi__lack_backbottom.stl files. Of course, you will need to mesure the height of the acrylic sheets accordingly.

If you have the short version and lack some height - like me... - I've design specials pieces to give more height without having to change acrylic screens. You can find them here:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1876315

Edit 2 : If you want to attach the Lcd to the side of the enclosure, you could use this design : http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1876336

Post-Printing

Instructions :

Use the support_plexi* to build the structure and hold the plexiglass walls in place.

For the bottom fan, I used a 12mm diameter PC fan (https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B002KTVFTE)
For the air extractor, I inserted in the air_extractor box a 8mm fan (https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B01915JPSM). I replaced the glass of the window by a plexi with a 8mm diameter hole and a 10 cm grid on the outdoor side.

I removed the display control and the power supply from printer to put then under the table. use wires.stl to pass wires through the table.
The filament spool is on the top table. I used TheChrisP's convenient spool holder and modified the arm to be installed on the table instead of the printer's frame.

Use the photos to get an idea of how things work and feel free to adapt for your needs.

If you have some maintenance to do on the printer, the top table with the plexi windows can be easily removed to allow an unrestricted access to the printer.

See the printer in action in the enclosure

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Question. Don't you have issues removing printed objects if you only have a door on the front? I sometimes need to go around all sides to get it to loosen from the build plate.

No, usually, the front access is sufficient. But sometiles when i need sole maintenance, I take the top part off so I have full access. I designed it so that the top part could be easily removed and placed back.

Looks like a great design! I only have a couple questions does the hole for the fans let the heat out? Because for printing ABS I would want it to keep the heat.

Hello, wawaChief!
Great design all around! I have a couple questions.
I was curious what the measurements are for the Spool holders in relation to the side and back of the table. i.e "4 inches from the back and 5 inches from the side, with a 5 inch spacing between the spool holder arms".
The measurements in mm or inches would be incredibly helpful. Does my question make sense? I basically want to know how far to space the spool arms from their inside straight edge, and the distances from the front and back to place each spool holder arm.
I really appreciate your help and reply! Again, this is an amazing design and build!
Cheers,
Jerad W.

HI can you post the link to the lac web cam mount...

I haven't looked at the other parts yet, but the 2" tall leg supports in the rear have a number of non-manifold surfaces interior to the part. They cause interior walls to print inside the body.

Love it! Looks awesome

Do you have issue with higher print far from the top hole (Pass filament)?

Yes occasionally. I saw this filament guide which could solve the problem. I haven't tested it yet.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2114888

Ikea Lack filament guide

Where did you buy the Plexiglass? In Australia it seems ridiculously expensive, four panels at this size would be over $120!

I'm curious about how your Pi is set up? What are you using it for?

Also, The corner pieces that have the tool holder and sd card holder are top pieces?

The Pi is running Octopi. It is very useful to remotely monitor your prints and stop them in case something goes wrong...
For the corner pieces, I'm not sure to see what you mean exactly.

I like the SD card holder corner, but it looks like (and described as) a top corner piece. I'm curious about the reason.

Also, How did you connect the bottom corner pieces on top of the bottom table since the center whole lines up with the hanger bolt connecting the leg to the table?

Ok I see. In fact I have no idea ! I took this part from this (see the link below) and I don't know why it has this particular shape, but I found it convenient to hold the plexi door so I kept it. I guess you should ask nothing_fr.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1344608

The bottom corner pieces are just screwed on the bottom table. I guess I got lucky the screw didn't collide with the bolt connecting the leg... You don't want to put a long screw in here. A short one does the job since the lack table is quite thin. Also, there is no pressure or force applied on this screw. It is meant to keep the corner piece in place so a small screw is enough.

Support Plexi / LACK - Avant-Bas-Gauche
Comments deleted.

Hi,

First I would like to thank you for your great design.
I've design a 3mm filament pass version that I would like to share. @wawaChief: If you want, you can add it to your model.

For those who use 3mm filament, you can download the stl file here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9KXRnbPFRPyeG5zeENXU3BqNUU/view?usp=sharing

Hope that can help.

Did you leave all the electronics, except for the LCD and PSU inside of the enclosure?

Yes. The temperature does not exceed 35°C inside the enclosure. I have a fan on the bottom table I can plug when needed and another for the air extraction. Even when printing ABS, the electronics doesn't get too hot.

Has anyone come up with a better way to secure the top table, when using the latest tall bottom plexi holders? I still want the top to be removable, but would like to have a little more security. With the original plexiholders the pyramid portion gave a little support to the sides of the top table which was nice.

Has anyone tried velcro?

I drilled a hole into the center bottom of each leg and installed a 3/8" dowel

Comments deleted.

No issues with the Rambo still in the enclosure and the heat?

with the air extraction outside, the temperature in the enclosure varies between 35°C in summer and 20°C (25°C with abs) in winter, and is quite stable. I have two fans : one for the air extraction outdoor and one on the bottom table I usually don't use, so there is no risk of overheating the rambo.

Hi, thanks for your effort and design. I happened to notice in the enclosure tour video you have vibration dampeners on the Z Axis frame. Can you link where you got them? thanks!

Prusa I3 MK2 Z-Frame Support-Dampener v1

awesome, thanks!

Hi, I like the lcd enclosue is that a printable design too?

The Lcd enclosure is purse's. I didn't change a thing. I just customized a support to attach it with a hinge on the enclosure :
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1876336

LCD holder for IKEA lack enclosure

For the spool holder, did you print it standing up or on it's side? Any risk of it cracking/separating from the weight of the spool?

I printed it standing up. So far so good... It is quite resistant. I don't think the spool weight can break it : 2,5kg at most divided on the 2 holders. Not a big deal.

Well... I was thinking of using a longer rod and putting 4 spools on it. I wonder if it would hold up to that...

Hello.

(Bonjour, il semble que vous soyez Français :) )
I saw a small error in the bunch of file. The Tall Bottom Left is the same than the Tall Bottom.

BTW, many thanks for this!!! Really appreciated.

Bonjour :)

Je ne suis pas sûr de voir l'erreur : Les 2 pieds de derrière sont identiques. Les deux pieds de devant sont spécifiques droite/gauche car il faut que la porte puisse se dégager. Il y a donc 3 fichiers qui à première vue m'ont l'air bons.
tall_support_plexi_lack_bottom_front_right / tall_support_plexi_lack_bottom_front_left et tall_support_plexi_lack_back_bottom_x2

looks good to me.

@wawaChief Well Done! This came out perfectly!

I'm using it with a Monoprice Maker Select. I appreciate the comments below, they were particularly helpful. For the next reader, here's some bits to know: this is a rundown from top to bottom of how my table is set up (I believe that's how wawaChief has it as well)

Top of Lack table
Double-sided screw
Top brackets
Lack Legs
(no screws or adhesive, the legs just rest on the tall parts)
"Tall" brackets
Screws
Bottom Table
(optional) Screw and Bottom Table Legs
Floor

Since the tools that came with my Monoprice Maker Select were different, I simply deleted the tool portions and added a flat area. I'll upload those shortly.

The only items I needed that weren't included by Ikea or printed were screws to attach the Tall Brackets to the lower table. I agree with wawaCheif's recommendation for a small screw if you have legs on the bottom table as well.

thnx for this review!

Just got my MK2. Printing your LACK table setup. What kind of light did you use? Also do you have the handle for the front of the plexiglass? Thanks

I found the handle here : http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:179261
For the light, it is a led ramp found in a local store. It is attached to the printer's frame with these :
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1656032

Pull handle for cabinet doors and drawers (from CAD to 3D-printed model in 30 minutes)
Rear Ramp LED holder for Prusa i3 MK2

awsome work, im looking for a enclosure for my prusa mk2 because im having insues with mantaining temperature for printing large abs with low warping. how does it hold the temperature ? could u show more images of all sides please

Here is a video showing the enclosure under every angle :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cj-JBQ_Heb4

The room temperature is around 20°C and the enclosure is around 32°C with the air extractor fan running. I Don't plug the 12" fan on the bottom because I don't have to : the temperature seems fine to me with just the air extractor working.

I will post more photos and a video with the printer working tomorrow I think.

I don't print a lot of ABS so I can't really tell if it really helps for the warping issue. What I appreciate is the evacuation outdoor of the fumes. There is no more melted plastic smells in the room.

cool, im already printing the parts, will shape it as i see fit to help me with warping :), will be waiting for more pics.

Great. For the bottom feet, don't forget to print the tall ones, so that you have enough height between the tables.

hi again, how do u keep ur printer in place? or is it loose? what do u thing of this http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:237262

Prusa i3 Base Plate Mount
by ToScH

The printer is loose, but it doesn't move. I use dampers to reduce the noise :
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1707045
You could glue or screw these dampers on the table.

Vibration Damper for Prusa i3 mk2
Comments deleted.

I am a little confused on the tall sections.
is the table suppose to just be sitting on top of those?
am i maybe missing something? does the plexiglass stablize it enough? thanks!

The tall sections you see are something I add on my own enclosure because when I built it, I saw that it was not tall enough so I had to make that little hack to avoid buying new acrylic sheets. The top table is just sitting on this section and can be easily removed to access the printer.

If you build your enclosure I suggest you use the big feet to add 5 cm of height to the IKEA feet so that you have enough space in Z. In this case, you mesure the good height for your acrylic sheet and have no need of this additional section.

Although I appreciate your tall parts, why not adding cutted legs of your bottom LACK table? Is +5 cm enough? The usable LACK height is 40 cm, then you added anti-vibration feet... Wondering about correct filament path with high Z.
Which material did you use fort these parts? PLA?

Comments deleted.

I couldn't find it, what is that green piece added onto your webcam there?
Thanks for this build, my gf hates all the moving parts out in the open, is afraid the dog will one day get onto the workbench and get caught in it or something strange like that. I've seen other enclosures, some like this one, but this is the best implementation of it in my opinion.

Thank you. The webcam is a logitech C270. With this cam, it is impossible by default to adjust focus so I printed this http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1406879 to allow focus adjustment.
In the pictures, the cam is inside the enclosure, maintained with this : http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1334020, but I changed this setup : it was too close and I couldn't have a good focus. Now, the cam is outside the enclosure and I have a better view and focus. I have something like this http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1199083, attached to the lower table to maintain the cam in place.

Focus ring for C270
C270 Mount for Original Prusa i3
by y1618
Mounting arm for Logitech C270 camera
by krice

What did you use to hold bottom supports plexi to table? Glue, screws..?

Screws. There are holes in the center of the supports for the screws. Don't choose too long screws, you don't want them to mess with the screws on the other side for the lower table.

Thank you !!! ;-)

What size (lenght and high) are the acrylic sheets and did you get it airtight for printing ABS

I printed the eight pieces at the two sides of the 4 feet and assembled the tables. Then I measured the exact length and had the acrylic sheets cut to the exact dimension in the store. Doing so, the acrylic sheets fit perfectly into the frame and there is no gap. On the sides, I put some tape to improve tightness.

It is probably not perfectly airtight but I think it is quite enough, especially with the air evacuation outdoor. I can't smell anything when printing, specially with ABS.

Thank you, good idea :-)

What is the thickness of the acrylic sheets? Thank you!

It is 5mm thick.

Could you post a link to the Ikea table you are using, I can't seem to find it and would love to try this out.

This is just awesome !

Could you add some more pictures of it please ?

Thank you. I have added some pictures. Is there any other parts you want to see ?

HI wawaChief, i am impressed of your work. I ordered my MK2 3 Weeks ago and awaiting it any day. Right now i am plan my Enclosure for this printer. Then i'll print the most time with ABS.
Could you make a Video of your Enclosure when the printer is working? I mean a complete 360° View of this enclosure.
The most i am interested in is the Airsytem.

Thank you. Next object I print, I will make a video of the whole thing. You will have to wait a few days.

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