Nuka Cola PC

by themitch22, published

Nuka Cola PC by themitch22 Aug 31, 2016


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Thing Statistics

4141Views 544Downloads Found in Games


Here's my video overview of the PC: https://youtu.be/jeTddE1RnTk

2nd place winner of the Quakecon 2016 Modders Inc. Bethesda/id category case mod competition.

More information here:

Build logs:

PC Specs:

Big thanks to "Messy" for the original file: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1140433

Also thanks to "baruthulous" for the Nuka Cola Quantum bottle files http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1163199

Print Settings


PolyPrinter 508


Doesn't Matter








Used brims for all the parts, minimal warping. Used black Inland brand ABS.

The total case size is about 500x230x230mm so it depends on your printer. I used netfabb to slice my STL's into 9 printable parts.

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I'm kinda new to computer building and I saw your parts list and was wondering, what kind of games can your play with those parts

i'm printing on a I3 at 50mm/s @ .3mm hight, but only have a 200x200 build plate so had to cut the front into 10 sections..
Will post pics once glued together

The geometry might change slightly because of the gaps between prints, I had to adjust some of the screw holes in the acrylic laser cut SVG to fit and did a lot of sanding before gluing.

about 90 hours of printing done, just finished the front piece lol

Awesome! I printed my parts on a PolyPrinter 508, it was averaging 150mm/s so it didn't take that long, I'm sure your prints will look a lot cleaner though.

thanks, will give it a try

Just chopping this up in Netfabb now ready to start printing tomorrow

Awesome, I would like to see how it turns out. I didn't really go into detail about how the mini-ITX components are mounted. I basically printed 3 x motherboard stand offs, screwed standard standoffs to the printed holes, and also 1 x PCI-e standoff which has the dual slots for the graphics card. I basically CA glued the standoffs to the acrylic where it would clear the tabs and the 80mm fan holes. The mid-panel acrylic gets sandwiched between the front part and the main body, the holes should line up.

I would definitely recommend you print with like 5 perimeters and top/bottom layers so that the M3 threaded inserts have something to bite to.