LED low poly mask

by newyork3r, published

LED low poly mask by newyork3r Oct 31, 2013

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**Masquerade version is now on Thingiverse as a Remix of this!! http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1064014

*I modified this mask to house 25 5mm RGB LED lights (from adafruit) in the mask. I also added slits on the sides to add a strap. The battery holder holds 2 9-volt batteries.

For different voltage sources use this great resistor calculator to determine the correct resistors.

Print Settings


Doesn't Matter








Natural or any other clear material.
Do not scale for original Replicator*


LED Wiring:

  • I used adafruits.com Diffused 5mm Slow Fade Flashing RGB LED. They are great for beginners as they don't require any programming skills. http://www.adafruit.com/products/679
    -Check to see if lights fit in place as PLA has a tendency to warp
    -Once you are sure the lights fit, glue them in place with a fast drying adhesive that works well with plastics
    -Solder lights in place with their associated resistors
    -To connect the mask to the battery pack, I used male/female DC Connector Size: Out-side diameter 5.5mm, In-side diameter 2.1mm. I used adhesive to mount this wire to the left edge of the mask passing right in front of my ear and down my back.
    -I used a silicone adhesive sealant to seal all the exposed LED leads and wire.
    Disclaimer: I make no claims that this mask is actually safe to wear. I am not liable for any injuries caused by electrical shock. MAKE AT YOUR OWN RISK

    *Refer to pictures for the wiring diagram


-The stap is made by sewing 3/4" velcro strap made up of 3"of the "hard" side of velcro and the rest is made up of the "soft" side of velcro.
-I trimmed a piece of soft cotton from a fabric store. This is held in place with velcro sewn to it so it can be washed.
-To stop light leaking into your eyes causing flares in your vision, use a dark opaque material such as electrical tape to black out the eyes. as an added effect of the tape the mask become creepier.

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It would really help to have shots of the LEDs actually soldered and wired in place so I could see how that is supposed to go, as well as the connections with the batteries.. I am an electronics noob and am having trouble envisioning how this is supposed to work (the circuit diagram shows 5 separate parallel circuits, but I don't know how to go about doing that).

Mine is almost done printing. But the 4 slots on the top rear of the mask (sort of bigger than the rest) are kind of exposed. I guess it will look cool with LEDs in it though

How much does the finished item weigh? without lights and strap...

I want to print this for a juggler friend of mine but he needs to see, how do I delete the pieces around the eyes so it is a normal sized hole without it becoming hollow/broken/I-Don't-Know-What-I'm-Doing???

So you can go about this in two ways. 1st, you can print it normally then use a soldering iron or file to manually shape the hole. Do not attempt the soldering iron on ABS as the fumes are toxic. Your second option is to use your CAD software to modify the file. As this is just a mesh it is not normally editable. To get around this you need to convert the mesh to a base feature. This makes it a solid boy that you can edit. There are tutorials that you can use online to accomplish this. Just search in google "how to convert mesh (or .stl) to base feature (or solid body) in 'your software' ". I use solidworks and Inventor for my modeling.

Ya.... when I remove the pieces to make it look like a more usable performance mask I can not figure out how to close the holes up between the front and back. Is it possible to provide a version with the extra eye pieces removed and the nose open and the mouth open? I found that it is easy to remove pieces to make perfect holes, but just can't figure out how to connect them from front to back. I thank you for any help you can provide, it is an awesome mask!

Side note... I acquired Solidworks and I couldn't even figure out how to align the bottom of the mask to the grid/floor much less make ANY alteration to anything, lol I attempted to take the first built in lesson and gave up on like page 4 because I couldn't find anything it was talking about. {=O( This is definitely something you have to learn from humans or in a quality instruction setting...

If I have time I might be able to remove the eye holes, but I cant make any guarantees as I no longer have the Inventor file that I did the modifications in. Even with larger eye holes it will still be hard to see with the light leaking in.

So I have inventor as well now and couldn't figure it out either, and I am typically a natural with tech so it's weird for me. Can you point me towards a resource to learn the basics?

I assume you are using the student version of Inventor. Autodesk offer tutorials for most of the tools within the program. If you simply search for on google for converting .stl files to solid bodies in Inventor and you will find exactly what you are looking for.

I bought the LEDs you had mentioned but they are dropping 3 volts a piece. I can only light up three LEDs at a time with one battery with them in series. Did you have them wired in parallel?

Check the wiring diagram in the pictures for how I wired it up. FYI I used two 9-volt batteries that fit in the accompanied holder.

Thanks a lot man. My masks turned out great! I got a lot of compliments at the Masquerade Ball. I wasn't able to get the two 9 volts to fit in there though, they were just barely too big in both dimensions. I was able to get one to squeeze in but getting the second was impossible (purchased Amazon Basics 9Vs). Ended up using zipties to hold them together and to the strap.

Your welcome glad you had a great time. I didn't realize how much different brand batteries vary in size. I'm glad you were able to figure something out in the end. I used a new version this Halloween that was a phantom of the opera style.

Comments deleted.

The source is what this is remixed from

What size head/face does this mask fit

Im not sure how you classify head/face size, but you can open it in MakerBot desktop and check the scale to see the dimensions.

Can you soak the sides in hot water to make it wider?

Probably, although it will take long to dry as it's fairly porous.

No idea, haven't done it. Obviously do it with out any electronics first.

Sigh... 9hrs 4 min before a Printrbot Simple Metal prints one my size...

Do you have any models for the masquerade style?

Comments deleted.

how do I resize this to fit on my face?

I managed to get mine to fit perfectly by warming it up in the oven (slowly, and checking it often) and massaging it to fit with gently hand pressure.
Be very careful though! I almost left it in for too long and it was very soft when I checked it but I got away with it and it is a perfect fit.
The LEDs have just been delivered so I know what I'll be doing tonight!

Great job newyork3r :)

What temp did you set your oven to? I'm just getting ready to print this.

Good luck, and enjoy!

If your printer is large enough you can scale it up, although the holes for the lights will also get bigger. This isn't really that big a deal as you will be glueing them in and they are tight to begin with.
Another option is to lightly heat up the bare mask with a heat gun or your stove on a very low heat. Then flex it to fit your face.
I personally used the stove to make it wider.
Be careful as PLA melts and warps at a really low temperature.
Good luck!

What kind of battery did you use? I see the battery holder and the voltage calculator, which suggests 18v but I'm not seeing anything about the actual power supply used. Was this a single battery designed to fit in the battery holder or multiple batteries wired together?

Everything is set up to use 2 9-volt batteries. Sorry for the confusion!


I published some halloween masks last year on YouMagine, and they may fit with this project!

BTW It looks great!

This this the coolest thing,
is it possible to use PLA without 3d printing?
otherwise what other material would you suggest that will diffuse light like this?

If you have some other means of making a mold then filling it with the same material I can see it working. I personally like it printed since the sparse infill reduces the weight where its not bothersome to wear for several hours. its actually a lot more vibrant in person. The sidekick version is even better, although I have not posted it online.

Thanks! Yeah the last thing I tried this on was an arc reactor, which was really hard to get the light to pass through it. For this one I decided to attempt the lowest possible infill and the least shells. As an added bonus to the pretty good results it only weighs 111 grams with everything installed (not including the two 9v batteries. Thanks for the original file.

Awesome idea! I generally I have given up on using printed PLA as a general-purpose diffuser, but it looks like the angled surfaces in the mask work quite well!

Faceted designs with natural/translucent filament are pretty amazing for reflecting light.

Another example: http://www.thingiverse.com/make:110410

Make #6 - Classic Icicle