Most every upgrade i have made to the solidoodle 2, would be useful for solidoodle 3 as well.
One part is missing and that is the small L shaped plate that hits the endstop switch and yes its very important, will upload later.
Will update and add directions as requested. Marked as work in progress as there is always room for improvement but as is the parts are working very well on my printer and i have logged around 100 hours of print time since the upgrade.
I'm able to print at higher speed while retaining the surface detail. 40mms works on most prints with a max of 60mms for travel which used to top out at 30mms and 45mms for good detail.
The Z anti backlash upgrade is the most noticeable improvement on surface detail and i recommend everyone print and install this upgrade before anything else so the rest of your upgrade parts come out nicer.
You will need a few M3 aka 3mm nuts and bolts of various lengths. I couldn't tell you exactly what i used as i simply bought every bolt in every length ace hardware hard in stock. Very useful little bolts to have on hand for printed projects. Reuse the M5 nuts and bolts for the idler pulleys.
Solidoodle2 - HicTop Prusa i3
Print at what ever settings gives you the least warping, with all of my models i try to account for shrinkage.
PETG or ABS will be the best option with PETG proffered due to low warping and a higher heat deflection which matters with the hot end mount.
The bearing mounts tend to be a little lose so print with a high infill so they print a little fat and a couple layers of kaplon tape around the bearings gives a nice and secure fit. The tape also makes it easier to snap them into place.