HyperCube 3D Printer

by Tech2C, published

HyperCube 3D Printer by Tech2C Sep 4, 2016

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Upgrade your 3D Printer to this frame! Re-use your motors, electronics, hotend, heatbed, etc...

Watch how the HyperCube came to be:

I wanted to reduce the weight of the moving mass as much as possible. As the entire X-gantry is moving in the Y direction, the rails for the X axis should be light too. I chose to use 10mm anodised aluminium tubing, which is half the weight of 8mm steel rods.
And have since moved to Carbon Fibre tubes, which is one eighth the weight of 8mm steel rods.

Marlin 1.1.0 configuration.h file attached.


T-Slot 2020 (Slot/Type 6) Aluminium Extrusion Profiles for X200 x Y200 x Z155 print bed area
(Note: If you intend to make a larger print area, then increase the length of the 2020 extrusions AND rods for each axis by the difference)

  • 4 x 340mm (X)
  • 4 x 303mm (Y)
  • 4 x 350mm (Z)
  • 2 x 285mm (Bed)
  • 1 x 135mm (Bed)


CoreXY + Z + Bowden Drive System:


Motors, Electronics and Accessories:

Print settings:

  • 3 Perimeters
  • 3 top/bottom layers
  • 0.25mm layer height (or better)
  • 50% infill

Print 1 of everything except below:

  • 2 x Z_Carriage
  • 4 x Z_Carriage_Clamp
  • 4 x Z_Shaft_Clamp_v1.1
  • 2 x XY_Clamp_v1.1
  • 2 x XY_Joiner_v1.1
  • 2 x XY_Idler
  • 3 x Y_Shaft_Clamp
  • 4 x Bed_Support_v1.1
  • 2 x Dual_Bushing_Holder

Some useful extras:
HyperCube 3D Printer Accessory Pack
Compact Bowden Extruder, 1.75mm Filament for MK7 Drive Gear
Various Z nut mounts for Integrated Leadscrew Motors

X-Axis 10mm Anodised Aluminium alternatives
If you can't find 10mm x 360mm anodised aluminium tubes for X axis, and besides using Carbon Fibre tubes, there are 2 alternatives:
HyperCube XY_Joiner for 8mm rods on X-Gantry
X Carriage Mod for 3/8" Rod and Bearing for HyperCube 3D Printer


  • Bed_Support_v1.1 for revised bed configuration (build log video #11)
  • Z Endstop v1.1 for revised bed configuration.
  • Z_Motor v1.1 and Z_Shaft_Clamp v1.1 for bottom mounted motor
  • Fan_Duct v1.1 with extra clearance for E3D silicone socks
  • Fan_Duct v1.2 for easier bridge printing
  • X-Carriage v1.1 provides extra support to belt mount.
  • XY Joiner/Clamp v1.1 supports longer bearing LM8LUU and dual LM8UU bearings.
  • Configuration.h files updated to Marlin 1.1-RC8
  • Removed old file versions. Can be found here http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2013921
  • E3D (Inductive) Sensor Mount v1.1 for improved sensor mount stability

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Hello everyone,
Does the current file set not come with the Configuration file for the sensor? All I see is one Configuration.h.

Hey everyone, just starting to print out the pieces for my own Hypercube. I'm starting with the XY motor holders, my printer prints very dimensional accurate, however when I printed at 100% scaling my NEMA17 motors wouldn't fit in. I'm trying right now at 103% but I'm curious if anyone else has experienced this issue? I'm printing with PETG at 50% infill, 3 perimeters and 3 top/bottom layers.

Looking at components for this and have a question...
-Slot 2020 (Slot/Type 6) does this mean 6mm distance between the "wings? " like the picture below?

Can a 5mm version be used instead?

Can this be configured with the Bltouch?
I print on glass and I don't know if the inductive works on glass.

Ok 1st attempt to print the z axis moved down 10 mm before starting to print but the lcd display shows z axis is set to .35 mm Could someone Help a 3d printing nebey here btw the x y and z values are flashing but i have auto homed the printer successfully every time

Ok upgraded to Marlin 1.1.1 and problem went away Found a difference in setting up Z probe though I have the pnp normally open probe In the configuration.h file you will have to change The z_min_endstop_inverting to false and the z_min_probe_endstop_inverting to false also. BTW dont forget to change your default_axis_steps_per_unit number for your Bowden extruder as it is not saved when you upgrade the Marlin firmware. Hope this helps others upgrading their firmware.

Hi! Great looking printer! I plan to upgrade mine to this eventually. I was wondering what bearings you use for the XY Idlers? I don't see them listed in the BOM. Thanks.

I suggest using these with 20t pulleys.


XY IDLER for GT2 16T/20T Timing Pulleys | HYPERCUBE

I'm working on my main frame and just wanted to ask if someone could verify my measurements?
My heatbed is 270x210 rectangle. I plan to make the x-270 and the y-210.
z- I plan to go with 300. 270x210x300.
Tech say's to add the difference for the aluminum frame.

I hope this is right, Just don't want to make a mistake and waste the aluminum.
I'll try not to ask to many questions, Just want to get a good start.

OMG!!! That's awesome and I was correct on my measurements.

You should thank @FunkyDiver , he plugged it!

how much force does the frame need to withstand, i'm thinking of printing out the extrusions out of PLA possibly ABS to save costs, these extrusions aren't too cheap for me.

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5 days ago - Modified 4 days ago

Hi guys, so I made one! it is working but I have two issues:
1) during the fast motions in Y axis, there is a huge noise that I think coming from the bearings. Did anyone else notice that?
2) when I wired the bed to RAMPS and tested the heating, the big transistor near the bed wires on the board got extremely hot to the point that it was smoking! I am using an extra mosfet now. But I was wondering what did I wrong? The bed is the one in BOM. I combined the two negative ports on the bed into one. Is this the mistake? how should I wire it correctly?

EDIT: here is a short video of the noise https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=amn2oainDms I think it is there for both X and Y axes!
EDIT2: I uploaded more videos one for each axis, as you can see, I have noise in both directions. I played with belt tension, stepper voltage and lubrication but nothing helped so far.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iIroYpHIMQA https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nTtGL_J1YSo

I think that might be noise from your cable loom rubbing together as it flexed

I am pretty sure the noise was there in the early stages of making the printer. Before I tied cables together. I will check again. I also tried reducing the stepper driver voltage I went way low to the step skipping and the noise was there. I added a new video

2 days ago - Modified 2 days ago
w01w13 - in reply to jroody

After printing a while I noticed that in some speeds my LCD display keeps similar noise as in your video. I havent noticed that before as I had a cover in place that prevented the rattling earlier.

4 days ago - Modified 4 days ago
clogs - in reply to jroody

I believe you may have inadvertently combined the 12 and 24v connections on the bed.You only need 1 neg and 1 pos connection for 12v.
On my bed those are the pads closest to the centre.
Try spraying some lubricant on the rods.I use silicone spray.

I tested the bed with one negative pin connected.. it only heats up half of the bed. I have the MK3 bed. Under the bed in the table it says for 12V pins 2 & 3 are negative: http://imgur.com/a/jkssU
I tried some machine oils on the rods did not help much. I will upload a video from the noise soon.

4 days ago - Modified 4 days ago
w01w13 - in reply to jroody

It's the cheap chinese parts. I had to add a heatsink to the mosfet, and also change the power plug as the original one melted when I tested out the heatbed.

EDIT: If you're using 12 volts, then the wiring sounds ok. In my case the measured resistance of the bed was 1 ohm, and with 12 volts it means 12 A is pulled through these parts, hence why they tend to get hot. For the Y axis, no noises there at least on my build

5 days ago - Modified 5 days ago

Had these errors come up when compiling config H, never had them before. Does anyone have an idea what is going on? I am using the latest marlin and config H file.

sketch\thermistortable_13.h:48:1: warning: narrowing conversion of '1.64464001e+3' from 'double' to 'const short int' inside { } [-Wnarrowing]

sketch\thermistortable_13.h:48:1: warning: narrowing conversion of '1.99135999e+3' from 'double' to 'const short int' inside { } [-Wnarrowing]

sketch\thermistortable_13.h:48:1: warning: narrowing conversion of '2.41632007e+3' from 'double' to 'const short int' inside { } [-Wnarrowing]

sketch\thermistortable_13.h:48:1: warning: narrowing conversion of '2.92576001e+3' from 'double' to 'const short int' inside { } [-Wnarrowing]

sketch\thermistortable_13.h:48:1: warning: narrowing conversion of '3.53152002e+3' from 'double' to 'const short int' inside { } [-Wnarrowing]

sketch\thermistortable_13.h:48:1: warning: narrowing conversion of '5.07135986e+3' from 'double' to 'const short int' inside { } [-Wnarrowing]

sketch\thermistortable_13.h:48:1: warning: narrowing conversion of '7.15472021e+3' from 'double' to 'const short int' inside { } [-Wnarrowing]

what happened to config.h with sensor file? Its no longer listed in Thing files

I still see it. Its the last file with an update of 05-08-2017

is that the config file with the inductive sensor in it?

Here's a diff from the 2 files I saved a while ago.

Comparing files Configuration.h and CONFIGURATION_WITH_SENSOR.H
***** Configuration.h
// coarse Endstop Settings

define ENDSTOPPULLUPS // Comment this out (using // at the start of the line) to disable the endstop pullup resistors

// coarse Endstop Settings
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUPS // Comment this out (using // at the start of the line) to disable the endstop pullup resistors






***** Configuration.h

define Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.

define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.

define X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.


define Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.

define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.

define X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.

***** Configuration.h
// its trigger-point if hardware endstops are active.

// its trigger-point if hardware endstops are active.


***** Configuration.h
// The Z_MIN_PIN will then be used for both Z-homing and probing.

// The Z_MIN_PIN will then be used for both Z-homing and probing.


No that Configuration.h does not have the inductive bed leveling sensor feature enabled. I see what you were saying in your original post. I misunderstood. I don't know where the other file is although you should be able to figure out what to change to enable the bed leveling.

I have an Excel spreadsheet with US pricing, based upon the list of parts shown. Except for the printed parts, the cost is $430.76 USD. And that is for the whole printer, without moving any parts from an existing printer. Not bad price, for a quality printer.

Curious if I could migrate my Wanhao I3 clone over to this frame with stock electronics/board? Or, would it be impossible without updating to a different board that I can access the code for?

Has anyone had any success with the GT2560 board? It's an all in one solution (Arduino + RAMPS on a single PCB). Trying to use the supplied config.h just throws up loads of errors...

You are probably using an older version of the Arduino IDE. Try installing the latest version. I had the same problem and it went away when I upgraded.

Thanks for the suggestion. I redownloaded everything (IDE, Marlin, config.h), set my board type to ULTIMAKER and disabled ENDSTOP_INTERRUPTS_FEATURE (as it was throwing up an error) and I now have Marlin flashed to my GT2560.

Just need to figure out which setting inverts the motor directions and find out why the X/Y/Z characters on my LCD are flashing up as "?".

6 days ago - Modified 6 days ago
henryarnold - in reply to buster2006

From Configuration.h

// Invert the stepper direction. Change (or reverse the motor connector) if an axis goes the wrong way.

define INVERT_X_DIR false

define INVERT_Y_DIR false

define INVERT_Z_DIR false

X, Y, And Z will show ? until your the printer does a Home.

Thanks. I actually figured it out about 15mins after posting, but forgot to come back and edit my post. facepalm

I been struggling with level shifting. My X carriage did have a sticky point or two. All parts were painted with ABS on a hictop prusa i3. I'm also using the 3/8 variant for the x carriage. Tried tight belts, loose belts, stepper driver set to .6 - 1.3 amps. I now reprinted the x carriage parts with PETG and my sticky x carriage is better. My controller is from Osoyoo. My next step maybe use my Hictop controller. Any other suggestions?

Hey Tech2C, most community discussion happens on the Facebook group but you're welcome to hang out at r/hypercubecorexy on Reddit too.

May 22, 2017 - Modified May 22, 2017
tgmorris99 - in reply to superjamie

The problem with Facebook is you need to be logged in as a member to see the HyperCube stuff. Some folks don't do Facebook. :)

Yes exactly, so people could chat on Reddit instead if they wanted to.

May 21, 2017 - Modified May 21, 2017

I think the length value for the single bed extrusion is wrong. The printed holders add ca. 1,8 cm per side. That sums up to 13,5cm + 2*2cm(extrusions) + 2*1,8cm = 21,1cm width for a 20 cm bed. This doesn't work properly.
I just have this problem with my 25cm * 25cm build. The bed does not align to the holes.

MK3 heat bed is 215x215 holes are roughly 211mm apart mine worked out perfect must be a slightly different heatbed that you have.

Almost, it's 214x214 and the holes are 209mm apart ;)

Ah, thank you. Of course this is the thing i didn't thought of. I am using custom aluminum sheet.

Thought I'd give everyone a heads up on how I resolved a noisy Y axis bearing. Maybe it can help someone else.

For my 300x300 build I switched to 10mm guide rods and also used LM10LUU bearings. As I was ironing problems out I noticed I had a fairly loud vibration in the system which translated to noise in the print. I tracked it down to a noisy LM10LUU on the left side. During my investigation I removed the bearing from the XY Joiner and discovered there was a bit of play between it and the rod. I put it back in, tightened everything down and, almost magically, the vibration/noise was gone. I'm assuming the bearing was misaligned as I had installed it in the XY Joiner prior to putting it on the rail and the act of freeing it and reinstalling corrected the misalignment.

Printing my parts now and aluminum extrusion is on the way.
One question.
My Hictop has a 1.4 all in one board.
Will this board work or do I need to order the one you used?

May 21, 2017 - Modified May 21, 2017
henryarnold - in reply to Ctx32

The HicTop board is basically an MKS Base board so yes it will work fine. The MKS boards are a Mega plus Ramps integrated onto one board so the Marlin code will work fine with them.


I want to make one of these with a 300x200 mm bed. Is it possible to make it like this with a single Z axis stepper, or would I have to do two?
Also, can someone clarify which axis is X and which is Y on this printer?
Thanks for the awesome design by the way, I'm looking forward to building one.

on your 300x200 bed,300 would be Y axis,200 the X.No matter if you look from front or back,X moves side to side,Y moves forward/backward.Personally,I think you would need 2 Z steppers with a 300 long bed,but I must stress,I have no personal experience with that size bed.

I have been running with a 270 mm x 220 mm bed with one Z axis Stepper. I upgraded to better bed supports and the 10 mm bearing rods. 8 mm bearing rods will not work very well. There is too much flex. If you orient your bed so the 200 mm direction is the one hanging out and you upgrade to 10 mm bearing rods, I think it will work fine.

Thanks! I think I'll do that. Would you mind sharing what changes you had to make to upgrade to 10 mm rods?

May 21, 2017 - Modified May 21, 2017
henryarnold - in reply to Jackflef

I remixed the Z axis bed supports to have longer arms and retain LM10UU bearings:
There are also other bed support designs that use 10 mm bearing rods.

I also remixed the Z axis limit switch mount which you may not need if you are using the proximity sensor:

HyperCube LM10UU Z Axis Carriage
HyperCube Z Axis Limit Switch - 8 & 10 mm Mount

Thank you for sharing! I'll definitely use that.

I am getting some pretty bad z banding on my larger parts. any ideas?

I'm struggling to find affordable 2020 T-slot extrusions in the UK, can the v-slot stuf from ooznest.co.uk be used instead without changing the design or the 5 series bars from Misumi?



Yes you can use the Openbuilds V-slot extrusion from Ooznest. The drop-in t-slot nuts fit just as well in V-slot as they do in T-slot.

I used Ooznest when I built my D-Bot but I used http://www.aluminium-profile.co.uk/acatalog/Aluminium_Profile_with_6mm_Slot.html to build my HyperCube.

I have ordered the same as you used, thanks again.
Pretty much ordered the extrusions listed in the BOM but went for 400mm Z to get a bit more height - £54.90 delivered :)

Thanks for the advise. Using v-slot will make sourcing the frame much easier for me, I didn't realise how similar t and v-slot were.

About the only advantage v-slot has over t-slot is that when using wheels they can run in the V and are perfectly aligned

Would I be able to use my current Anet A8 220mm x 220mm Hotbed with this project?

Yes, that is a standard bed with holes at 209mm.

Awesome, thanks for responding.

Has anyone implemented linear rails for the x and y gantry?

Yes,a fellow on the google+ page has done it.seemed very happy with the smooth movement.

Is there the possibility of adding dual z-axis for this design? Or use larger diameter Z linear rods to avoid sagging of the bed?

Several individuals, including myself, have implemented a dual Z configuration, though mostly with larger bed sizes.

What wouldneed to be done to make tgis print 250x250x300?

I am curious if anyone has a detailed list of where each type of screw will go. It's listed that M5x8 and M5x8 are needed with 60 of each being used. Let-alone beginning the parts being put together. Maybe I am just struggling due to all the changes that occur in the videos.

May 17, 2017 - Modified May 17, 2017
Megamax - in reply to boomtownxcs

It's M5x8 and M5x10. M5x8 are used for the corner brackets (28 brackets with 2 screws each) while M5x10 are used for all printed parts that are mounted to the frame (I think 46 screws in total plus some screws for the accessories like extruder mount, spool mount, etc.).

Perfect! I will now go swap out the screws. :P

If you want to use washers for the brackets, go all for 10mm M5. I used none of the 8mm ones.

Congratulations to tech2c for his design! Initially I just wanted to improve my Anycubic i3 and was searching for a new x carriage. I came across his HyperCube and the build log on YouTube. This build log was very appealing -- he explained every detail and fault he made. Over the past weeks/months I ordered every part, redesigned some parts and printed them. Now it's bulding time! The x carriage is already put together and all printed parts have their nuts and bolts. While building the frame I encountered a little problem: using the corner brackets from banggood it's not so easy to put the frame in angle and without tension. I think you have to loosen the screws on the corner brackets, align the extrusions and then tighten the screws again. Unfortunately the t-nuts didn't stay in position very well and I think about either using other t-nuts or other brackets. Any tips?

I'm wondering if 8mm carbon fiber tubes would be ok,since my x-axis is set up for that size?
If i need 10mm,i will have to reprint all the parts for that.

I want to know also.

I have some 8mm carbon fiber tubes so we will find out!

May 15, 2017 - Modified May 15, 2017

Hey Tech2c I have been watching all your video's on the Hypercube and i was wondering do you have a price for printing and shipping of your parts. I am trying to gather all the parts for the hypercube but i don't have a running printer to print the parts ? shoot me a email if you could at [email protected] thanks im really looking forward to putting this printer together it will be my third.

Hello tech2c i have a question, do i need to change the Marlin firmware when i use another type of LCD screen with the ramps board?

I make a test on my assembly to verify my job.... i test the toolhead and motor for movement's troubles or lost steps and i try an insane printing speed and acceleration 900mms 1350mms travel acc.3500-4500-6000 print-travel-max.

check it out

That's looking very fast! I dare you to print that fast!

May 13, 2017 - Modified May 13, 2017

Hi guys,

I've just finished my printer but I'm facing the following issue:
When it homes to Z, the bed moves down after homing. I mean, i goes up, triggers the sensor and after triggering it moves apart from the nozzle and stays about 1cm down the nozzle...

Does anybody elsa face this behavior? I'm using Configuration with sensor file.

Thanks in advance!!!

Also, I believe if you use the config file for the sensor but use endstops it will be off as it has the offset distance for the sensor from the bed at 5.5mm. I installed the probe in order to run the wiring in the braided sheath but am currently using dual Z axis endstops so my bed would move way down.

Correct. I decided that I didn't like it going down 5.5 mm so I set the proximity sensor offset to 0 so that my down motion is only 0.5 mm. That makes it easy to move it up to 0.1 mm for the paper test.

Z axis down is the positive direction. As the bed moves down the printing object is growing in size. So yes a 1 mm down after homing is normal.

Hey Tech2C,

Im nearly done with my hypercube but i've ran into a small issue, the cooling fanduct is too short since im using the E3d Volcano.
It should be 8.5 mm longer now.
Do you have the original design file i can change to get the cooling to work with the volcano?

Thank you!

He doesn't publish his files, but I'm pretty sure someone else already made one for the volcano. If you can't find it, it should be pretty easy to design yourself.

Here's a couple extended fan ducts and It looks like they may have a small amount of adjustment.

or you can use the search I did in Thingiverse for HyperCube Fan Duct

HyperCube Fan Duct - Extended
by SpikeUK
Hypercube 3D Printer - Adjustable/Extended Fan Duct (For clone/different hotends)

Been using my HyperCube for a week or so now, noticed a slightly annoying issue with the z-probe, because it pivots, if you knock the wiring coming off the printer, it can shift the probe, causing the head to crash into the bed. Is it possible in a later revision for you to add a double screw constraint rather than a single?

Sure can. I need to redesign the X carriage anyway for multiple attachments, so I'll incorporate a double screw attachment for the sensor mount then.

Awesome, thanking ye muchly :)

My HyperCube is almost complete too, I am just waiting on my part cooling fan to arrive, to make up the enclosure panels and finally finish the base plates so everything is self contained and nicely enclosed.

May 11, 2017 - Modified May 12, 2017

Have you guys used Banggod for the smooth rods? I received my 400mm Z rods today and they're 5/16" in diameter (7.94mm) and have a slight bend to them (wobble when rolling on a flat surface). This isn't suitable, right? Anyone know of a UK supplier for decent quality rods?

[edit] Apparently not suitable. Done a little bit of research into linear bearings/shafts and it looks like I need to be looking for a g6 rated tolerance (so 7.986mm - 7.995mm). Luckily, searching for "g6 8mm shaft" brings up a fair few results, not too expensive by the looks of it either; around £15/m.
I'm being overkill with this, 5/16" rod will probably be ok, but I've had such a bad experience with a cheap Chinese i3 clone that I kinda want to get the HyperCube running as best I can.

I too recieved a bad rod from banngood it was a joined rod from two rods wielded together absolute crap. Being in the staes i found a us supplier added another 15 dollars to the build cost. Buti did not have to wait 24 days for it to arrive. From what i have be seeing on the post it is hit or miss if you get good rods or integrated lead screw stepper motor from them. I found the replaement rod on ebay Unfortunately i could not find any on Amazon.

Jesus! That's really bad! After reading the item description again, I spotted that they're advertising them as "g6 h6" rated tolerance, which is a joke!

My second set of rods arrived the other day (Y axis) and they're pretty much the same; slight bend to them, 7.94mm dia.) Luckily, they're the only 2 things so far that I've found to be a problem. Everything else from BangGood appears to be ok. Having said that, I don't think I'll be ordering a stepper w/integrated lead screw from them, I'll spend the extra and get one locally. Plus, like you said, shipping will be a hell of a lot faster.

May 13, 2017 - Modified May 13, 2017
jinx - in reply to buster2006

"g6 8mm shaft" dont know about that :P
I'll be asking " 8mm Chrome Steel Smooth Rod" like these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Prusa-i3-3D-Printer-Rod-Kits-Smooth-and-Threaded-Kits-8mm-M8-RepRap-/201338464081?var=500537057148&hash=item2ee0b52751:m:m33BSsiGzOE7kR9MXO9jGOg

I have a little faith in the seller to get you sorted "used them in the past thou never gotten bars from them.

Appreciate the link, but I've already got the rods sorted from elsewhere. I'll post again when they arrive, hopefully they'll be a better tolerance than these crappy Chinese things!

Tech2C,Your great achievement has been successful.
There are a lot of people affected by you.
It is time to think about the next project.
Thank you very much.
Thank you for your hard work.

Hello, hopefully the people I have affected are ok? Haha jk.
I need to complete the Hypercube with attachments on the X carriage for drawing, laser engraving and drill mill.

It is a great concept
You are the same as Linus Torvalds
If you basically design, later things will be done by someone else

Comments deleted.

Could you please tell me the cables plug to the ramp board, are they blue, red, green and black? I mean the sequence.

Oke, I will try to swap the red and blue cable and hope it works, thank you.

Hi! I had been made Hypercube for quite sometimes now but I have a problem with the movement of Y and Z axis. Is there when we make home of Y, it move to the front hit the endstop and for Z, it move to the top? mine is move opposite direction. Please can anybody help me, thx

Turn the stepper motor plug 180 degree on the ramps board.
Succes, Harry

I had tried that before but not success, is there any way else to fix this? thanks

You could change the axis direction in the configuration.h file, but flipping the connector is the better option. Maybe you accidentally flipped it 360 degrees, it has to work.

Sorry for this question but on the ramps 1.4 board the jumpers under the stepper drivers i garher the X and Y should be set to 1/16 micro stepps but what about the Z axis and Extruder ?

Set all of them to 1/16

some of those red ramps want give you a choice they may have jumpers but some have traces bridging the the two points.

Hi Tech2C, maybe i meet a design error on the XY joiner...
can you please check if the distance between the center of the bearing seat and the rod idler? i think both rod idler is not at the same distance/tollerance so when i twist the 2nd (to mount on the other side) i have different distances between bearing seat and rod idlers. i'm trying IGUS beraing and i have to press a bit 1 side to allow the X carriage to move free without any friction.

Please, make a check. I know that the ball bearing or bushing not take care about this little difference but the igus need a perfect alignment.


Hello :)

Does it need printable parts? or everything I can buy from the list you wrote?

It needs printable parts. You can find the files under "Thing Files"

Thanks a lot. But it will be my first project, so what do you think I should do in this case?

Do you know anyone that owns a 3d printer? Is there a 3d-printing service near you or is there any company/school/university near you that owns a 3d-printer? If you said yes to at least one of them, ask them to print the parts for you.
Also, I think Tech2C himself or someone else would be willing to print you all the parts and send them to you.

Now no I don't, but I will try to find someone and I will check Tech2C, now I am just following your videos to know more about it.

Have a great day :)

Ok, glad I could help! I'm gonna let you know when I find something.

its a shame that the configeration.h file will compile with marlin rc 8 but not with the release version 1.1.0

Ok the configuration.h file has been updated for Marlin 1.1.0

thanks for that, i went back to rc8 until i or some when fixed it, i thought the rc versions follow each other and sketches would be forwards compatible but was not the case, thanks again :)

May 8, 2017 - Modified May 8, 2017
jinx - in reply to stefi01

make it work!!, you could use winmerge http://winmerge.org/?lang=en to compare the files config.h and make the changes from the old to the new.
it really isnt that hard looks daunting at first but mastering marlin is well worth the effort seem the 1.1 aint with out it issues. make use of the bugfix release it

i will remember that but it seems it is all done now :)

Hi there, which version of Marlin are people using? i have tried the latest version along with the hypercube config h file however i get the old tool kit error, i have tried a previous version of Marlin and then i get a Motherboard value error. I am using bog standard ramps and arduino. Cheers!

There's an updated Marlin 1.1.0 file in the "Thing Files" Tab

Wanting to build one of these. Do you think its worth the extra time and cost to make it bigger?

just happen to have a massive (60cm^3) unit I want to build it into, so I'd be able to build a massive build zone. but I'm wondering if it would be worth the extra cost?


mine is built with 600mm anodized extrusion and 18 inch bed but a sensor for bed leveling is a must for that size but i think that if this is built then its worth going bigger because of the effort put in to this project

I think it be worth increasing Z axis for sure, theirs a few fine examples in the made section.

Thats the same thing the guy at my local maker space said lol. His basic advice was dont make the bed bigger than needed, but any extra height is always worth it if you have the room.

May 7, 2017 - Modified May 7, 2017
jinx - in reply to dan3008

sound advice :P... its true on scale of things printing objects larger than 200x200 we talking days print!! not hours. but the hypercube current dimension rock solid just a little short on Z. and it doesn't cost that much more from a scratch build with 500mm beams and 380 Z and 2 extra beam for Xy supports. still with the current dimension it possible to slip a heat chamber inside the frame. with a 380 Z commercial delta struggle for that :P.

I say 500 you get 200mm printable, be closer 700 for 380Z

Much more than print times (although, I can see that being an issue) bigger print beds take more power to heat, tend not to heat as evenly, can be harder to level and are more prone to warping...
ok, im almost convinced. I want a bigger print volume than the A8 this will be replacing. So I might go for a 250mm-300mm^2 bed, and just use as much Z space as I have :)
thanks for the input, really helpful

would it be cheaper to buy a reprap prusa i3 and convert it to a hypercube or just by all the parts separately?

 at first  it does seem a smart plan, but those cheap kits tend to have lower quality fresh hold. you may end up paying more to replace the crappy parts!! you could take the tronics , power supply,motors and smooth rods, but you left with a pile of unusable stuff like frame, belts, screws.
 now on the flip side if you dont a have a printer to print the hypercube parts to start with  it could save you cash, rather than buying the parts from a 3rd party. it make a good start learning the software like slicers and firmware installation and  so on. if you undecided if 3d printing for you than a cheapie printer want be a bad start either. BUT if the budget allows you have both use the cheap one as part maker.
  I find its help having two if you some how break a part on the cube thats prevents you printing  you got the other to fall back on plus it lets you tinker with one while printing with the other. 
 in this day and age there's better controllers out there, 32 bit board with web interface have a peek at smoothie boards, mks Sbase for 8 bit boards look at RUMBA everything you need on a single board. the RAMPS have served us well  and for a basic machine it will do just fine  but let it die with grace! " dont go building the latest with obsolete parts the hyper cube will last for years and years dont go  buying parts you replace later.    

thank you so much, very helpful. I already have an anet a8 so i wont be worrying tooo much if the hypercube breaks

Definitely buying the parts separately.

Tech2C- I have the Hictop i3 with the longer bed 270mm on the "y" axis. Could you give me an idea of what I would have to change in order to make that bed work on the hypercube. I would imagine it would mean the cube as a whole would have to be bigger all the way around??

you can use funkydiver's material calculator: http://funkydiver.com/hypercube-materials
just type in your desired build volume and it will tell you what you need to buy

wow that is so cool

would you be able to use the anet a8 for it

yes, sure

Anyone tried the latest Marlin 1.1.0 release on the Hypercube?

That was released hours ago, literally! I'll convert over to it and update the configuration.h files here very soon.

Wow. thanks a lot!
Seems there is a bugs fixed version already.
Shouldn't rush....shouldn't rush.....

why does the 1/16 step seem really really fast?

I started making this about a month ago, I'm so close to getting this complete now it hurts!

Anyone willing to chat about how I can convert a maker select to a hypercube, the maker select is working fine-ish but I got a CR-10 that is running circles around it. No real budget, all working parts from my maker select and I want the size to be 300x300x300 mm. Anyone want to help me with a BIL by chance?

you can use funkydiver's BOM calculator: http://funkydiver.com/hypercube-materials

Thank you, also got to talk to someone and I feel more confident proceeding with it now

Did any body tried to scale it for a 300x300mm bed? I want to be sure that the bed carriage can carry a 300x300mm bed without any problem.

I scaled mine to 350x350 but I'd recommend you to use two Z axis. There are some good solutions to relocate the Z axis on the sides, instead of the back and front, so that they won't interfere with the Y axis.
I'm going 200x200x???. Still thinking on what height.

Any chance we could talk about how you set all this up and what you purchased exactly?

Yes, no problem. I set it up the same way the small one is setup, but with two Zs. The X rods, first I used Alum but then changed for 10mm steel tubes that I bought locally. Better. But I see now that if you put a piece of profile bellow the XY motors, on the side, parallel to the Y axis, you can transfer the Zs the side instead of the back and front. That's what I'll change next, as soon as I build the second one. I want to put an acrylic jacket on it. :)

If possible I'd like to pick your brain, and hopefully this isnt against any rules. We can chat on https://discord.gg/3xnNm which is a free anon-ish chat service.

You can contact me through facebook chat or on the unofficial HyperCube group.

I already have one 420x420*400mm (Vulcanus) which is on 2 axes. What I want to do is tı use Ultimaker or Flashforge style one axe system.

If you want to do that, just follow instructions for a 200x200x? hypercube. The use of two Z axes is for larger builds.

I finally got my bed to home at the top,but now,when i click "up" in Pronteface,my bed goes down,and vice versa.
Anyone know which line in Marlin I need to edit to correct this?thnx.

Isn't that what is supposed to do? It's the bed that moves up and down, not the extruder. It may confuses you because Prusa type printers, do the opposite, but if you think a little, the part "grows" descending the bed, so it's normal that when you send up, the bed goes down, because what you are doing is raising the distance between the bed and the extruder. Is it clear this way?

I'm not quite sure what to expect,but you may be right.
Pronterface may not be recognizing the fact that it,s controlling a corexy printer.
I'll try print a test cube and see what happens.

@jmlcatarino is correct. When you click 'up' in Pronterface for Z, think of the nozzle height from the bed.
In fact when moving any axis it should be from the nozzle point of view.

That's great,Tech2C,it probably means I had the settings correct before I started faffing about with them.
You can't expect too much from a dumb dutch kiwi:D
First chance I get there will be a test cube printing.Thanks again,everybody.

Yoohoo,we have a working hypercube.I printed a test cube,which came out reasonably well.Just need to calibrate the extruder,and settle on a slightly slower speed.
I currently have a Titan with E3D hotend on direct drive.Once I've done a few prints.I might convert to Bowden.
Or maybe just get a pancake style stepper for the Titan.Opinions sought.

May 3, 2017 - Modified May 3, 2017
webliya - in reply to clogs

The section below is for inverting the direction. true is one way false is the other.

So check for your Z (I assume you use CoreXY) and if it is true change it to false and vice versa.

// Invert the stepper direction. Change (or reverse the motor connector) if an axis goes the wrong way.
/#define INVERT_X_DIR false

define INVERT_Y_DIR false

define INVERT_Z_DIR false

First print 450 mm x 50 mm x 100 mm.
Changed the extruder/hotend from bowden to direct drive with small motor.
See http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1959020

Tunnelplan 3D printer

How much filament does it take to print all of the parts?

250g according to earlier replies ;)

Question, why is the extra 3mm needed in the Y extrution part? (303mm)

The Y axis bearing rods are 300 mm. The 303 mm frame part allows a bit of clearance so the rod can rest between the Z axis uprights.

I only have 300mm extrusions, do you know is there any way I can get away with using them?

Great thanks for the quick answer!

Tech2C, thank you very much for taking the time to document the built of this well designed printer. I build one out of the parts of my Anet A8 and it is a very good update. It prints really well. Love It. Thanks a lot!

That's awesome! Did you print the HyperCube parts on the Anet A8 first, then cannibalised it for the HyperCube build?

Yes, I used the Anet for printing the Hypercube parts. All in blue PETG. Awesome stuff that PETG.

Is the stock build capable of reaching the very edges of a 214x214 or even a 220x220 print bed if needed?

Or is it absolute max 200mm? I'm wondering whether I need to increase extrusions by 20mm to guarantee I can make it to the edge if need be.

The stock build is exactly 200x200. Add extra to extrusions and rails by the difference for extra print bed area.

After fighting with this printer for what seems like ages, it is finally at a point where I can just hit "print" and it does......perfectly every time.....and with PETG no less !! My personal HyperCube is nearing completion as well. Everyday I complete another aspect of the build. It is over engineered to say the least.

I gather that the HyperCube you completed was for someone else (work?).What were the main issues you had to overcome to get it working?

Yes, it was for work. I had extrusion issues, jamming, bed level issues......crap filament causing issues....etc.

Hello, I need a photo of the passage of the straps (GT2), I can not straighten the straps securely.
Thank you for sharing.
One more HyperCube in France!

May 2, 2017 - Modified May 2, 2017
henryarnold - in reply to tgv26

I added a diagram to my build of this printer showing the path of the two timing belts. The diagram is the last photo. I did not twist my belts. Consult Tech2C's video regarding twisting the belts which is optional.


HyperCube 3D Printer

Hey, i followed your Build logs, and now im a little bit confused: Are the extrusion lenghts here the ones i need to get, if i want the build volume of 200x200x155? Because those numbers changed in the log a few times i think, and want to get shure to be able to print on the whole bed :)

This page has the latest info. The build log video's I can't edit and re-upload, lol :)

Make that 101
I'm about to finish my 200x300 build, i cantilevered it with some hiwin rails on the back.
All is very stiff in construction, also i fitted a duet wifi which is working great with core XY.
The rest of the volcano pieces are probably coming in this week so i expect to finish it in the coming weeks.

Comments deleted.

3 more HyperCube builds before we hit 100!
I have been using my HyperCube for 5 months. It is a fantastic printer. The number of people building HyperCubes is testimony to its solid design and utility. Congratulations to Tech2C for his great work including the videos that support this printer.

Absolutely Remarkable...!

The centennial build is near!!

I have built one I just haven't posted it yet. I have been working on some issues with auto bed leveling and Z probe issues.

Same here! :D
Technically it prints fine, but I'm doing some upgrades and stuff. Mainly with TMC2100 drivers.
With the 3 of us, it's already 100 builds! I'm sure there are others who haven't posted yet aswell!

agreed. I need to post mine but I am still working on my dual extruder

Oh nice! 2 Hotends/nozzles? Or with a Y adapter?

using a chimera 2 nozzle. Thing number is 2206602 if you wanted to see it. Geared direct drive system building it for 3mm filament but could be used with 1.75mm

Same here. My HyperCube works for a few weeks already but I just don't consider it ready for posting yet. Gotta tidy up the whole wiring mess first but I'm almost done with that ;) I just don't like all the people posting that they "made" the printer, even though it's not even working yet, let alone tidied up.

I've been following along and kudos to you Tech2C for a great, simple design. I am wondering if you have any plans to shrink it (I know, everyone is trying to go bigger), but I want to know if you think it is feasible to make one about the size of a Fabrikator Mini/TinyBoy?

I guess using the original printed parts, you'd still have a really bulky printer when using a bed size like the Fabricator Mini.
You'd have to shrink and redo all the printed parts, recalculate all the (smaller) extrusions and plan a completely new BOM, essentially designing a new printer that way.

Anyone know what size extrusions i should use for the bed if i'm doing a 12x12 (300x300mm) bed? thanks.

You're gonna need to make that into dual Z. It's not really a good idea to cantilever a 300x300mm bed.

Yea I think you're probably right. I was thinking maybe the 12mm rods would be OK with it but I dunno. I'll probably just do dual Z motors then.

Apr 24, 2017 - Modified Apr 24, 2017
logicfry - in reply to TheBasedDoge

For the bed I'm using 2 z lift motors and 4 z bars.
447mm x2
243mm x2

For the frame
747mm x4
413mm x4
450mm x4

I wanted extra room underneath for the electronics.

HyperCube 3D Printer

Thanks. That gives me more questions though. What size rods did you use for the Z? I think the 8mm will flex too much. And also what kind of rods are you using for the X?

I just used 8mm for the z rails but I'm using 4 of them 2 on each side. Using 10mm carbon fiber rods print head to ride on. If you are only going to use 2 rods for the z axis yeah your going to have flex in them.

does the corexy have any advantage over the H bot gantry? To me the H bot seems like a more study design and a little simpler belting but what do i know.


Here's one person's analysis:

Here's a CoreXY tutorial which makes it easier to understand how CoreXY works:

Comments deleted.
Apr 23, 2017 - Modified Apr 23, 2017

I've made a little improvement to my make.

I've added a 24V PSU to power the heatbed via a MOSFET switch. The heatbed is still wired as if it was connected to 12V but with 24V it heats like greased lightning.
All the rest of the electronics are powered by the 12V PSU. The output of the electronics which would normally power the heatbed are now used to switch the MOSFET, which reduces the load on the electronics onboard MOSFET to almost 0 amps.

Hi, I intend to do the same. Did you use any special settings in the controller firmware to prevent the heated bed from drawing a lot of current at once. My controller supports 24V and I have a 24V power supply but I have an old 12V MK2A heat bed which I want to reuse. Can you share a picture of your setup.


Apr 24, 2017 - Modified Apr 24, 2017
TechGirl_Mods - in reply to blowfish2003

My controller also supports the use of 24V, but, I am actually using 2 power supplies one 12V and one 24V.
The controller is wired up to use 12V for everything and I am also using a MK2A heatbed wired for 12V.
The heatbed output of the controller is only used to switch the MOSFET via an opto-isolator, which in turn connects the 24V to the heatbed. At no time is the 24V connected directly to the controller it is only connected to the heatbed via the MOSFET switch.
The effect of all this is to at least double the power of the heatbed.
For the diagram see my make http://www.thingiverse.com/make:319553

You can get the same or similar MOSFET switch from various suppliers including the ones here:




HyperCube 3D Printer
Apr 23, 2017 - Modified Apr 30, 2017

This thing looks frickin awesome!

I stupidly bought a cheap Chinese i3 clone which I've been tinkering with for the past month and I'm still not happy with the print quality. It's the crappy frame that's the problem (8mm laser cut acrylic); it seems to have way too much flex/play and generally isn't very well made. I may have to look into building one of these if I can't improve my prints (got a few more things to try first).

I'm assuming all my parts will be fine (Geeetech i3 X)?

[edit] Yup, gonna build one. Already ordered some parts. A few Qs though;
Anyone know whether the code will work with a GT2560 AIO board? (came with my Geeetech)
Carbon fibre or aluminium X rods?
Is a MK2b heatbed with glass ok, or should I just upgrade to a MK3? The MK2b has quite a lot of flex on my current setup.

Apr 23, 2017 - Modified Apr 23, 2017

Does anyone know the specifications of the lead screw he is using I know its t8 but what is the pitch, is it 2mm, 4mm, or 8mm

I use T8 2mm. The Z steps in the configuration.h works out to 1600 with the stepper jumpers set to 1/16th step resolution.

He mentions that he uses screws with 8mm lead in a video, but you could use something else.

I would like to make this 3D printer. Thanks the great develop. I have a 3D Qu-Bd printer for printing the parts but I created some tests and I think I will not be able to print hole parts (XY joiner with bridges) or are there any special know how? for printing?

Anyone know where to source the 10mm rod for the X? Literally can't find it anywhere... US shipping preferred.

I believe that this company will be able to make them for you I haven't called yet but it might be a good try.


Or you could use 10mm Carbon fiber tubes. They're easy to find on banggood

do they have the same "properties" as aluminium?

Apr 23, 2017 - Modified Apr 23, 2017
Farnomat - in reply to Enikka

Yep, Tech2C did a video on them and uses Carbon fiber tubes himself now:

Apr 24, 2017 - Modified Apr 24, 2017
Enikka - in reply to Farnomat

Thanks for the tip then!

That is 10mm steel, not aluminium. Steel is very heavy and I don't recommend using that.

Within the description scroll down to see alternatives to using 10mm aluminium rod. The easiest is using 8mm steel (although still heavy), or 3/8 aluminum if you're within USA.

I found 3/8 aluminium for sale on mcmaster. I guess i will go with that.

Oooh didn't thought about that :/
I'll see when i get them and find replacement if needed

need a little help, when i home X or Y the wrong access homes resulting in a crash, also the controls on pronterface are switched.

Your two motor connectors are either switched on the Ramps, or they're plugged in the wrong way (flip them so that one side of the connector is on the other side)

so is there an expected cost on this build. and can i use this designs on a bigger printer like 70x70x70cm?

I'm working on a 200x300mm print area based on brspartan's remix, but with the 2020 extrusion. My cost is working out close to $400 total.

Hi All,

Just started collecting all the parts for my 24"x24"x24" build with 80/20 series 15 just waiting for a few more parts to arrive to start the build

The most challenging part so far was to find the bars. I'll keep you posted on how the build goes!

24" cube build volume? Noice! Make it a triple Z motor axis. That way you can have motorized bed leveling!

that would be mad!

Any good links for examples of the triple Z motor axis? I've seen one or two I think.

Honestly I haven't seen that many other than a few on Youtube. If you do it, it'll be a little experimental I suppose.
Repetier firmware supports motorized bed leveing. Not sure about Marlin.

So I finished my hypercube and had a crazy thought could you use the hypercube as a Cnc

yes, that is indeed possible. I want to use mine as a laser engraver (maybe even cutter)

Let me know if you make mounts for the laser engraver

There is already one:
The dimensions of the laser you want to buy should be the same, but I would check if they are

500mw Laser mount for Hypercube X Carriage

Has anyone made this printer with 300mm on the X axis using carbon fiber tubes? Do they sag? (a build volume of 300mm would require 460mm tubes)

Yes. and no, respectively. Using an e3d big bed (325x225). 10mm carbon fiber tubes. No sag.

How's your experience with the carbon tubes? I've completed an entire roll plus a bit extra and can confirm it's working awesome!
Are you using polymer bushings or the self lubricating steel?

I'm thinking of updating the BOM to incorporate the carbon tubes. Thoughts?

I went with a pair of the 20mm polymer bushings per mount, and discovered steel wool and mounting the rod in a powerdrill worked best for smoothing out the carbon tube.

You should absolutely update the BOM for carbon, as it's easy to find. I'd recommend linking the 20mm bushings over the 10's, i found the 20s to be more forgiving if the print comes out slightly too large -- the 10s can slip out, but the 20s have more surface area.

Cool, I'll go with a 300x300 bed. Now I'm sure about the carbon fiber tubes.

Can the hypercube be built around 1010 extrusion?

Sure, but you need to edit/create other printed parts, cause the holes wouldnt fit

Great! CAD time!!!

I'd imagine you'll also need different T nuts.

Rats,rats,rats.When I tried to print a test cube,the bed dropped like a stone to the bottom and crashed into the power supply:(.
I'm about ready to throw this thing at the cat.Try again tomorrow.

Why did it fall? As long as you screw everything in you shouldn't have this problem?

It didn,t fail as such,the motor turned really fast, and pulled the bed down before I could cut the power.
I,m going to try reflashing the firmware and start from scratch.

Oh, ok. Your Z motor is probably not plugged in correctly, I would flip the connector around and try it again

Apr 18, 2017 - Modified Apr 18, 2017

Got my z axis to home at the top,but once the endstop has been triggered,the bed will not lower.
If I remove the power,and move the z leadscrew by hand to lower the bed,i get the following:
I can move the bed up10mm,then I can move down10mm,but no more down.
This has me tearing out the little hair i have left.Any suggestions?

I fixed it,i think..I changed the endstop cable on the ramps board to the z-max position,and changed marlin to reflect said change,e.g.commented out the z-min endstop,and substituted the z-max.
Now to see if it will actually print the right way.

Does anyone have a XY Joiner model/stl that works with the Y axis as 19mm bearing (10mm Y steel rod) and the X axis 3/8"? I have looked around and found half of this puzzle but not the whole thing. I would make it myself if I was a modeler like many of you. Thanks beforehand for the help!!!

Apr 19, 2017 - Modified Apr 19, 2017
tgmorris99 - in reply to thehands1

You could use this as a starting point but would need to shrink the 10mm to your 3/8" requirements. Or switch to 10mm steel rods instead of anodized aluminum or CF tube.


Xy-joiner for 10mm Y-Axis (19mm bushings) Hypercube 3D Printer
by mbruehl

where do I find the cork that tech2c uses on the bottom of his heated bed?

I think he uses a cork tile which you buy in a hardware place.I got a sheet of self adhesive 1/8th cork from an arts supply.

Oops,sorry'bout the large font:).

Found another problem.I have the Z motor at the bottom of the frame.Z endstop fitted at the top.
When homing the Z axis,bed goed up and triggers the endstop.So far,so good.But when I try to move the bed down,there is no movement at all.I'm almost sure I've got an endstop setting wrong somewhere.
Here are my settings in Marlin 1.8.1.

Endstop Settings ===========================

// @section homing

// Specify here all the endstop connectors that are connected to any endstop or probe.
// Almost all printers will be using one per axis. Probes will use one or more of the
// extra connectors. Leave undefined any used for non-endstop and non-probe purposes.




//#define USE_XMAX_PLUG
//#define USE_YMAX_PLUG
//#define USE_ZMAX_PLUG

// coarse Endstop Settings

define ENDSTOPPULLUPS // Comment this out (using // at the start of the line) to disable the endstop pullup resistors


// fine endstop settings: Individual pullups. will be ignored if ENDSTOPPULLUPS is defined


// Mechanical endstop with COM to ground and NC to Signal uses "false" here (most common setup).

define X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.

define Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.

define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.

define X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.

define Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.

define Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.

//#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.

// Enable this feature if all enabled endstop pins are interrupt-capable.
// This will remove the need to poll the interrupt pins, saving many CPU cycles.

Could someone whose setup works successfully please copy all their endstop settings from marlin and show them here?
Many thanks.

On testing my hcube,I found the printer making horrible grinding noises as the x travelled along.The y motor was not moving,just vibrating back and forth a little.The cause was found to be one pair of coils on the y motor connected the wrong way around!Don't trust the colours of wiring on any chinese made stepper or cable!Use an led to test.
Moving smoothly now,just have to reverse the Z endstop,as the bed wants to home to the bottom of the printer.
FWIW, when using the chinese made Dupont style connectors,the pins are very loose in the socket.This can lead to the pins being pushed out as the socket is inserted on the ramps board.(or whatever you've got).Found this out the hard way,took me a while to notice the offending pin sticking up out of the socket:(..In short,make sure the pins are all the way in,and stay there.
Also,my lcd screen is a dud,it has most of 1 line of text missing.Tried a different set of cables,no change.New one on order.

I am debating between direct drive and bowden. I want to print flexible filament. Will a bowden tube on this 3d printer this printer be the equivalent of a direct drive? This is the direct drive I was looking at. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2206602
I will be using pancake motors to reduce weight

HyperCube Dual Extruder
by Teila

That is a geared direct drive system you linked. In general direct drive, or geared direct drives, are easier to run flexable filament through. Bowden is better if you want lightweight though. Kinda have to pick which is more important to you.=]

I don't know if anybody else has posted this yet, but for those in the US that are trying to make a Hypercube and are ordering from McMaster Carr, the 2020 aluminum extrusions that they sell won't work with the other parts that are listed in the BOM. The T-slots on their aluminum extrusions are actually only 5mm wide, so the hammer nuts will fit lengthwise, but then won't turn to lock in place. I ended up ordering (or rather re-ordering...) all of my rails from Misumi USA. If this doesn't work, then I'm screwed. I'll reply to this comment in a week to say whether or not the Misumi stuff works.

Just know - the McMaster-Carr rails DO NOT WORK with the listed hammer nuts!

I am working with 80/20 series 10 and 15 and reworking all of Tech2C's into the US tubing. I also decided to go big 24x24x24

jinx: good information for those that are starting to collect parts for the build. I wish I had known that before lol! I bought all of the parts from banggood and waited on the rails because I didn't want to have the frame and not be able to do anything with it. I probably should've bought the frame first, but...oh well :) Price you pay for playing the game I guess

Chr_s: excellent to hear! Thanks for the info!

i used that style extrusion with a 5 mm gap, used m4 bolt & nuts with angle and wriggle its possible to slip the m4 nuts in place where ever you need them.

Hi, I ordered the HFS5-2020 from Misumi and it works great with the cheap chinese m5 t-slot sliding nuts. So you can rest easy, It will work.

Comments deleted.

I have just comitted to making one of these, from what Tech2C has been blogging his make, it shouldn't be too dificult to build.
Excellent how to videos, but the real test will be when I actually start into doing the tricky stuff.

Apr 15, 2017 - Modified Apr 15, 2017

Does anyone has any suggestion for a bigger nema 17 motor for the dual z axis? I having problem with my spare one to raise the bed. it turn fine if I help holding it from the bottom. but it wont raise it self like its grinding at the lead screw nut. btw the weight of my bed will be heavy around 15 lbs with the glass top

6.8kg (15lbs) is quite a lot for a bed... o.O
May I ask for your bed size?! I have apporx 35x25cm (14"x10") and I am nowhere near your weight WITH a glass top.
Think about reducing weight as well, this might spare you some $$$.

I would go with dual 48mm NEMA17 motors

Are there more people who think that a dual partcooler will improve the printquality? Or will that be overkill? Looking for solutions but did not find a good option. any ideas?

It won't be overkill. You might have to turn their speed down a bit while printing, so you don't cool down your nozzle or have warping/layer adhesion problems.

I don't have a heated bed so everytime I go to print it just says temp error please reset. how do I disable heated bed in marlin?

If you don't use a heated bed, you have to disable it in the Marlin firmware and re-upload it to the printer

Where in marlin?

I think you have to switch the "TEMP_SENSOR_BED" to 0

You could just plug a thermistor into T1, but I didnt and I didnt get any errors. Thats odd. Try disabling T1 in firmware, configuration.h

what about the space on the botton where X hit the Z (t-slot), you left a bit of space as stud but how much?

What space are you talking about?

How to print XY_Idler i dont get a good result for this piece?

Ramps 1.4 or MKS V1.5 ??
Either or?
Pro's Con's ??

As part of my rebuild I will be using a Re-arm for Ramps and a RAMPS 1.4, which gives me the benefit of a 32bit processor. The only downside is there is no Marlin 32bit at the moment, although it is coming in due time.

Thanks TechGirl! I hadn't heard of Re-arm until you mentioned it.
I may well get one, if only to get to play with Smoothieware :-)

https://www.panucatt.com/Re_ARM_for_RAMPS_p/ra1768.htm. You will have to pay import duty and VAT, unfortunately.
It's so easy to configure, you just place the precompilled binary and config.txt on the SD card. After that any changes to the configuration are made be modifying the config.txt file.

does it run Marlin or its own firmware?

It runs smoothieware but they are developing a 32bit version of Marlin. The advantage of the Re-ARM is that you get the power of 32bits and the RAMPS 1.4 plugs straight in, so no wiring changes.

Yeah! I've kinda come to accept that our government will screw us at every opportunity :-)
Indeed, it seams real simple.

i'm considering using a smoothie board.......i have a spare ramps 1.4 board so i may wind up using that in the interim

Apr 16, 2017 - Modified Apr 16, 2017
henryarnold - in reply to mlbuxbaum

I have MKS Gens on both my HyperCube and my Prusa i3. They are Mega+Ramps compatible but in one board. I like the JST connectors which matched my original HicTop controller. There really isn't much difference electrically to the Ramps. MKS skipped the reset-able fuse which I hear can cause problems. I would say the quality is better depending on where you buy your Ramps. MKS also claims better power conversion on board than Ramps. I don't have direct experience because I haven't run with a Ramps setup.

I'd use the MKS GEN-L. Unless you buy an expensive brand-name RAMPS you risk getting cheap Chinese crap which melts the second you turn it on, I've had two cheap RAMPS boards do this. MKS GEN-L runs Marlin or Repetier (whichever you prefer) and you can change the stepper drivers. The GEN-L is half the price of the old MKS GEN.

I would take the ramps because:
Bigger community

It's your choice though

I see in one of the photos that you moved the Bowen mount to the right side of the printer. Do you have the updated STL file for that?

You don't need a different file for that, you can just move the extruder where you want it

i finished my build today and did some testprints.
If I print round things, the extruded circles overlap for about 5mm. What am I doing wrong? :)

I bought a 300x300 MK2 heatbed for my new build.....https://goo.gl/photos/RokJoQiGcLDYuCSx7
Has anyone used this one or one similar? Do i need to back it with another aluminum frame or use it by itself? Its failrly flimsy and not flat at all......

Apr 16, 2017 - Modified Apr 16, 2017
mikelee69 - in reply to mlbuxbaum

can you post link for that bed? All the beds 300 x 300 I find say that I need to supply about 350 watts. Is that the current for just the bed or the whole printer? All the beds I can find say I need to supply 24v. If I use this ramps board http://www.banggood.com/Geekcreit-RAMPS-1_4-Mega2560-A4988-2004LCD-Controller-3D-Printer-Kit-For-Arduino-Reprap-p-1110876.html?p=9X051049165582016063 can I still supply 24v?

Try gluing it onto a sheet of glass

those cheap aluminum heated bed pcb's are usually rolled aluminum and due to the stresses of the aluminum being rolled, when it heats up, it will undoubtedly bow or bend. Here's a discussion about using mic6 cast aluminum tooling plate as a bed, I will personally be trying this once I have everything. https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/4bo4q5/stop_buying_aluminum_build_plates_buy_raw_cast/

I used one of those when I built an i3 over a year ago. Mine was bowed up in the middle, I just clipped borosilicate glass to it and that pushed the middle down and made it flat. Still works today.
I would suggest insulating underneath it though, I used corrugated cardboard, which stops the airflow and makes it heat up a lot faster.

thank you

what's the diamensions from the cross member between the build platform arms to get the acme thread to line up?

I'm not sure what you mean. Do you mean the piece of alu profile which connects the two bed arms? It's in build log #11.
135mm for the middle piece and 285mm for the arms.

nah sorry, I mean the spacing from the middle piece, to a ruler butted up against the arms

So basically where the middle piece needs to be in between the arms have the leadscrew straight? If so, have the bracket screws loose on the arms so you can slide the middle piece. Then play with it back and forth and let it settle naturally. Tighten the screws careful since the torque action of the screws might push the piece forward.
After that's done, bring the Z axis down and see if the leadscrew lines up with the rods and do this again on top.

ah okies, awesome, thank you

No problem! :)

engaged with the linear rail system do you have?
I think it would be more precise, but I couldn't find any documents appropriate on the internet for this printer.

Hi! I saw in the recently added pictures that you've removed the proximity sensor... Is there any reason why? I'm about to finish mine but now I'm doubting about the Z end stop system (switch or sensor).

I've added a photo with the inductive sensor option installed.

Thanks a lot for your reply! And also for sharing this great design.

Apr 9, 2017 - Modified Apr 9, 2017
WhiteRenard - in reply to Tech2C

Hey man :)
Is there any alternative to the IGUS bushings for carbon fiber rods?

You can try the self lubricating steel bushings. Even though it's best practice to use a bushing made of a 'softer' material than the rail, I think it'll work here.

Can you add a set of closeup pictures? Seeing each major component in an assembled state would be helpful.

Thanks! The pictures make all the difference.

are you updating this page as you update your machine? I see in your videos you have changed to drylin bushings but i still see the graphite impregnated brass bushing here or whatever they are.

Apr 9, 2017 - Modified Apr 9, 2017
Tech2C - in reply to warham

Yes the page is progressively updated. The self lubricating steel bushings are the cheapest option and function just fine with aluminium/steel X axis rails.

In Build Log #15 video I discussed using non-steel bushings for X axis, and non-brass nut for Z axis. They are optional.

Also, any 1515 remixes? I want to build a mini hypercube to donate to my school.

don't think that exists yet

Anyone got that sweet remix?

I could really use an X axis with horizontal rods instead of vertical. I need the rigidity, and Ill use it to design a carraige for dual extruders. 10mm rods with the bronze bushings

Apr 6, 2017 - Modified Apr 6, 2017

okay...having a some weird issues that are driving me ABSOLUTELY FLIPPING crazy. I'm starting to think I have a bad Ramps board.
1-during a raft print, halfway through the raft, the extruder reversed direction and started retracting much faster than it was printing (FIXED-WENT TO TOOLS-FIRMWARE CONFIGURATION-COMMUNICATION and INCREASED COMMUNICATION TIMEOUT FROM 30 SEC TO 40 SECONDS)
2-sometimes when i start a print, it does pretty much the same thing. Every 4th attempt to start a print I will guess. But sometimes it doesnt for days on end.
3-I upload my marlin firmware through arduino 1.6.5, and then when I connect to the printer, the settings have not changed. I calibrated my esteps and changed them in the firmware, uploaded them and they did not change in the printer

I am getting ready to throw this printer out the window........and yet I am building another one also......it's a love hate relationship

I have been watching your posts since you completed your printer. You have had a variety of problems. Some of them solved. Some of them I am not sure what happened. I think it would be worthwhile to buy a second controller setup and see how it works. You may be right about there being something wrong with you Ramps (or your Arduino). If you send me your Configuration.h file, I'll look it over although the problems you describe don't sound like a configuration issue.

sent a link to you in a private message

Woooo Hoooo just finished my make. Printing is great even on my 2nd print!!!! check out my make!!!

Hi all,

Again, I just want to point out that there is a HyperCube Group here on Thingiverse for anyone to join.


It would be easier for you to post your questions and things to this group so that topics are organized and specific.

Thanks and happy printing!

Super Simple building tip for all. I am currently building my Hypercube. I have sleeved most of my cables. I did not want to just have cables, even with sleeves laying all over. I contemplated how to get the sleeved cables to stay in the 2020 tracks, then BAM, it hit me, I would just use a small piece of clear packing tape. It is great, it is clear, and you can hardly see it at all, you can put pieces every 6 inches or so and they keep the cables in the tracks. If you ever need to redo wiring, simply remove the tape, and put new tape, DIRT Cheap and quick and easy to install. Soon I should have my running then I will post my entire make. Cheers!

I use spiral cable wrap as conduit, then heat shrink in any unused grooves amazing how much crap & dirt falls into those grooves

Comments deleted.

On first print, bed starts to heat up but then ramps starts clicking vionlently, any ideas? It sounds like someone is touching the end stops like 5 times a second

Sounds like it is trying to home one of the axis. Before you actually try to print, try to use the control panel to move each axis, x, y and z separately in both directions to see if they work. If not, then you need to adjust the stepper driver current. You can google doing that. Just make sure to use a plastic adjusting tool or turn power off completely or you risk shorting a stepper driver.

not actually a problem with movement, it happens before it even homes. Right when the bed get's to 60 then it starts clicking

Mmmm.. when the bed hits 60, does the hot end starts heating up then, or is it already hot? if the hot end starts heating just at that time, I would suspect a short hot end heater or a bad fuse?
BTW are you able to home all the axis'?

Any one know the aprox cost for supply and other stuff?

Please can you tell me which voltage you have to put on each axis and to the extruder, thank you very much

Your control board will take care of it basically. You only need to adjust the stepper drivers to regulate the current. If that is what you are asking google adjusting stepper current for you specific controller. For Ramps 1.4 there are a lot of factors, but generally a stepper driver voltage of .5 is a good starting point.


Does anybody know where to get 2020 aluminum extrusion in the United States?

https://us.misumi-ec.com/ best price in the US basically and they custom cut for free to your specifications

I bought this set, well, actually I bought 2 sets.
VERY fast shipping.

Have you checked openbuildspartstore.com They have good prices. I'm in Canada and I purchased from the Canadian Makerparts.ca and turned out great. (had to cut the lengths myself tho) I got the 2020 v-rails 500mm long. They worked great with the M5 Hammer Nuts.

Hope this helps.

I know the 8020.net 2020 will not work with the drop in hammer nuts. I have about $72 worth of 8020.net 2020 that I can't use and I am trying to get a refund for it. I found another place that has 2020 with a 6mm slot and I ordered some but I haven't received it yet. Once I receive it and verify it works I will post it here.

The slot size won't matter for the build. Just buy the slide in t-nuts. That's how I built my hypercube. And it prints like a dream.

Apr 2, 2017 - Modified Apr 2, 2017

Hey, just wondering if someone could remix this for me?
I have 12mm rods and LM12UU bearing for the Z and Y axis, 8mm bar and LM8UU for the X axis.

Thanks a Bunch!

EDIT: Oh! I see someone has already remixed the Z axis for 12mm!
So now looking for the X(8mm) / Y(12mm) Joiner.

Where can I find the tslot extrusions cheap?

us.misumi.ec got my entire set for $35, thats black, its around $20-$25 for silver

Uhhh what? How? When I purchased 7x 1 meter long pieces it came out to $61.60 before tax, shipping and handling.

My order for a complete Hypercube set of HFS5-2020 from Misumi, cut to size, and drilled at the ends, was 45.54 shipped. 31.65 for the the product, the rest was shipping and tax.

same here

Anybody designed or knows a Z Nut holder for the 3/8 inch ACME Nut .
This is not fitting the current Nut holes .
The diameter of this nut is 30 mm, the distance between the center of the 2 holes seems to be 23.5 mm or 24 mm .
They were used in the QU-BD One Up.

Tray 30cm stretch in the Z axis?

Has anyone configured theirs for dual extrusion? I'm printing a holder right now, but..

Apr 1, 2017 - Modified Apr 1, 2017

@Tech2C, I had minor z-artifects and i wanted all perfect. In the time that i am designing a new z-carriage with 12mm rods (coming soon) i changed my extruder (the one u use and well calibrated) to a extruder with a nema gearbox. And the result are amazing. No more z issues now. Testing some extruder might be a good idea for a future video?

thanks for this cool printerdesign

May someone help me with auto bed leveling in 1.1.0 rc8 please. it homes correctly on the first spot than got bananas to the max. I think its my off set settings but unsure.

Apr 1, 2017 - Modified Apr 1, 2017
Hydrate - in reply to crowsodown

I made a document so I could remember my steps for getting auto leveling to work with Marlin (latest RCBugFix branch)

I've uploaded it on github along with my configuration.h too



Thank you,

Heads up: Aliexpress is having a 7th anniversary sale. Its worth checking out if you're still ordering parts or if you're on a budget.


I have my printer doing really well now, except for the above issue and some oval holes......(but my one belt seems to be loose so i should be able to remedy that. I only have retraction speed (150mm/s) and retraction distance ( 7.4mm) set. I hate that bump out where it starts to print. I have calibrated my esteps for x,y & z. Z was perfect, and xy was really close. Extruder is calibrated too. Any ideas on whats happening with this issue in the picture?

Cubes are dead on 20.00x20.00? I wonder why youre getting oval holes. Is your printer printing square? Get a square, and check it against a 40mm cube.

randomise z height change, check to see if you got extra extrusion after retraction, if so tweak that

dont think S3D has that option.

S3D has all those options;
Randomize Z height change - In Layer tab > Start Points (Right hand side)
Extrusion after retraction - In Extruder tab > Ooze control > Extra restart distance ( positive number extrudes extra above retraction distance, negative number extrudes less.

Hope this helps

was fearing that, know nothing of S3D to be of any help.

I'm having an interesting, and confusing issue, Y-Axis moves work fine, but X-Axis moves at 50% of commanded distance. Since both axis have identical settings, I'm not even sure how this is possible. With a standard gantry printer, I'd assume the micro-stepping was set differently on one motor, but that can't be the case here since moving either axis requires both motors and the Y-Axis is moving fine.

Assuming both have same drivers, same estep and can move on print just with x-axis moving at 50%, check physical jumper on driver microstep setting (under driver board) if you're using ramps. May be some issue on connectivity there.

Apr 1, 2017 - Modified Apr 1, 2017
Nocturnal - in reply to w4rr3n

I resolved this by switching to the RCBugFix branch.

Thanks for the suggested solution, but this is a CoreXY printer, it mixes two motors to move the X/Y axis. To achieve a movement in just the X or Y axis, both motors have to be rotating at the same rate. If one of them is rotating at a different rate (due to a micro stepping/steps per mm mismatch) you get a mixed axis move rather than a pure X/Y.

Ah snap, i forgot to take that into account. Good to hear its solved. Cheers!

I decided to re-watch the videos from the build logs and took screenshots of some of the parts, how they go together, etc. Couple of things to note is that in the beginning of the build logs tech2c had parts fitted a certain way and decided to change them and explains those changes in later build logs. I strongly recommend first watching the entire build log series, and then referring back to the screenshots should you need them. Also, some of these photos may be blurry and not so high resolution because again, they're screenshots. If anybody else would like to tag along and post high res pictures of their build, it would be very welcomed and appreciated. Here's the link http://xomf.com/g/yxdff

Thanks for the pics

Don't know what's wrong with the printer. Any ideas? Steps set to 80,80,400,139.5. Running .15 millimeters a second with stock settings otherwise.


looks like over extrusion.
calibrate your extruder, it is super simple.

Ok, I don't have a good pair of digital calipers. Should I get some to do this?

see AnukWolfs reply below....i happen to have some digital calipers so Thats what I used.

I just cut off the PTFE tube flush with filament in it, then let it extrude 100mm and measure it with a ruler.
E.g. I got something like 78mm, then I'd go multiply the old steps per mm variable by (100/78).
In your case, you'd get some length over 100mm, so its something like (100/120), just multiply it the same way.

ok, I set my stock to 100. measured and it was perfect! So i"m crossing my fingers for test 2!

ok, test 2 seems a lot better so far. One last question, I built my hypercube to have a 14"x 8"x 6.5" Bed. In cura I can't find anything that would make a print bed a ceratain size. Any ides?

You usually should have set the bed size when choosing your printer in Cura. You can still change it in Preferences -> Printers -> Machine Settings. There's your bed width, depth and height.

In cura I am trying to print a pretty large part. But my hypercub only prints half of it? It shows whole in cura but no luck. Any ideas?

I'm not sure, but I'd say that your bed limits in the configuration are not adjusted yet?
Look into the configuration.h file and search for "Travel limits after homing", that should be the relevant thing.


Hi all, finished my 320x350 hypercube. Looks great but won't auto level correctly, it homes the first time then over shoots the second probe. Any ideas?

post some pics

Solved: Forgot I inverted the axis.

how is your extra large hypercube? can you post a make. I am trying to make one your size

It's okay, working out the kints. I used a cobblebot frame and cut it so I have 500x490x576 extrusion and used 500mm rods. Than follow this build

I have a 12.6x8.6" bed right now, working pretty well. Where did you get your bed?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BwsekiOP7rA he is using the same setup i am, although it seems like he has extra steps(not needed in my opinion) we will see.

Got an old oleo divider from DMV. works well pretty flat.

Can everything but the hot end brackets be printed in PLA?

I print only in PLA, the cooling fins on the hot end never get about 80F, you can touch them and not get burned. You need a cooling fan always running, but the hot end holder, Fan Shroud and all parts can be PLA and never suffer any temp damage

everything can be pla, I use a 30% infill all is fine.

Thanks! I thought the hot end mount needed to be in something that could withstand a higher temp.

Nah, it won't get hot at all as long as the hotend fan is on (and it should be on at all time during printing and heating etc..)
You can even have the print fan duct printed in PLA.


Trying to build a 400x400x400mm hypercube. Should I do anything different? I have a working hypercube and it works great! Where could I get a 400x400 bed?

400mm is a massive heatbed. Unless you have a dire need for that size I would caution against it. To achieve that size you'll probably need to change a lot of things to achieve the necessary rigidity and overcome the engineering issues. You'll need a custom cut aluminium bed and probably want to use mains voltage for the bed. For the heat pad I have nothing but praise for keenovo.com. I bought a custom silicone heat pad off them on aliexpress and it was perfect.

Wasn't actually planning on using a heated bed. Is there other structural issues I should look into?

If you're going for a big bed like 400mm, you definitely need a heat bed, even for PLA!

A cold bed will solve a some of the issues (thermal expansion of a big hot bed!). But you'll still need to ensure that the motion system is rigid enough and that the bed doesn't bounce or deflect too much. You might also need to swap to a ball screw or use two acme screws, and maybe upsize the rods. Might take a bit of experimentation to get it right but I'm sure it's doable.

what abouut 300x350

If anyone in Melbourne is looking for Anodised Aluminium - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/322466516084

Mar 28, 2017 - Modified Mar 28, 2017

Hey I was following your youtube channel and really like the prints your hypercube is doing vs what I see in smartcore machines (most likely because you use smaller/lighter bearings and lighter x-carriage with carbon rods in your latest version). Now I also want to build a corexy gantry machine but was wondering if you could make an alternative version for a regular mdf frame like the smartcore? http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:651117. The smartcore seems to be easier to spread as a reprap as it needs less vitamens (anyone can buy mdf plates everywhere, also it seems cheaper and with the right paint looks just as nice + you already have an enclosed case which is good for abs printing).

As I see it the alteration you only need to alter the 2 motormounts and the 2 idler parts on back to fit inside a box instead of around an aluminium extrusion. Anyways keep up the great work and also the youtube channel ;)


I converted my smartrapcore to Hypercube. I didn't like the smartrapcore at all, not only because it has many design flaws and doesn't implement corexy correctly, but also because since the frame it's made of wood, it amplifies the sound of printer a lot! It got really annoying.

Apr 3, 2017 - Modified Apr 3, 2017
wALLe - in reply to WhiteRenard

Was that the latest 1.2 version of smartrapcore (https://www.youmagine.com/designs/smartcore)? What is wrong with it's corexy looks about the same as this one. You either cross belts in the back (like this one, but this actually looks wrong because the crossing is not right http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:730199, this looks right but not printable http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:22005 or have 2 levels like is done in hypercube and smartcore 1.2). I really like the openjscad with customizeable sizes and the fact it's gpl3 that allows commercial use. Regarding sound not sure I've built repraps both with m8's and wood, both are equally loud..., for abs printing you want a closed build volume anyway so adding a door and a top will reduce the sound I think. Also with hypercube it would be nice to add extra panels to print abs properly.

by Unix
by frankie

Oh and btw, if you're gonna use Youmagine's version, double check all the parts you modify. It's not perfect. I changed the wood thickness and it screwed up the motor's mounting holes.

The youmagine is actually the old version. The latest version is on OnShape. You can find the links for it in the comment section of Smartrapcore's page.
I read a lot about smartrapcore, unfortunately after I built it, on reprap forums and reddit. tbh I don't remember what exactly is wrong with the way they implemented corexy. But what I do remember was something about belts having different angles which results in different steps per mm in different points on Y axis. I'm not sure if that made any sense... :D If you look at the image on smartrapcore's page, you see the belts going around the pulley do not go straight into the bearings at the end.
It's all on reprap forums, just the matter of finding it.
Yeah, adding panels in the front and top should reduced the noise. I plan on adding acrylic panels for Hypercube.

Hmm hard to decide now, either go with smartrapcore and modify parts should they have issues or modify the hypercube parts to work with a wooden frame... (indeed the moving pulleys from x-carriage and L+R engine pulleys and back idlers need to be exactly in 1 line or you'll have tension issues, at first glance the 1.2 version looks ok on youmagine, the side that does not go straight is ok because that one is fixed length it's the moving one on the side of the carriage that has to be straight all the way). For now I'll go with smartcore because if I can make that work properly I can sell kits without worrying about licensing ;) Ofcourse it's gpl so any improvements I'll post also ... And thanks for the tip about OnShape, didn't even know that existed yet ;). Also the leadscrew on z ax is better. Using belts for z has the issue if power goes down your plate will drop and also should the plate become heavy the z engine is constantly working just to keep it in place...

No problem. Good luck on your journey! :P

So what's the popular opinion voltage divider or reverse diode for those with the 12v sensor?

Reverse diode. It tolerates different voltages on either side of the diode so you don't have to fuss with the correct resistor divide ratio.
I posted a circuit in my Thing http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1258415

HicTop Prusa i3 Auto Bed Leveling Sensor Mount

Can this modify for dual head?

yes it can

HyperCube 3D Printer
by pivan

If you've seen the new video Tech2C made where he uses Carbon Fiber rods, he also uses IGUS bushings.
So what's the alternative to those Igus bushings?
Igus doesn't ship to were I am. And I couldn't find any distributers that did.

You could try a set of printed PLA or PETG bearings. I have a feeling it's either going to work great or the carbon fiber will wear them out very fast.

Thanks man, but Ebay won't ship here either. No US based company can unfortunately.

is there anyone in the netherlands willing to sell me the plastic parts??

Ik heb je een bericht gestuurd :)

I would be willing to, but just look at 3dhubs for a nearby hub that can help you out.

Is there a reason why the x/y-motors are in the front and not in the back?

I don't suppose there's anything to stop you putting the motors at the back,but it may get a bit crowded.The idler pulleys would need to go to the front then.Don't know if that would affect the belt directions.

Mar 27, 2017 - Modified Mar 27, 2017
cyberdyne - in reply to clogs

With the the motor and the rods for the buildplatform there is already unused space in the back so why not put the motors for the x/y movement back there as well. This way there should not be a problem with fans or level-sensors or other stuff near the extruder hitting the motors. Yes the idler pulleys need to be in the front but they are much smaller then the motors. For the new configuration you just have to switch x and y motor from left to right (or Switch the connections on the controller). I just wanted to ask if there is an obvious reason (that I just can't see) not to build it like this.

( Now I have one more question! What is the reason to use 2 belts instead of one in H-shape configuration. With both motors in the same hight and only one idler pully in the corners the configuration is much simpler and tentioning is so much easier. Which problem am I missing here? There must be a good reason to use the more compicated Setup, right? Is this setup better in keeping the right angle between x and y rods (if the tention of the two belts is the same). That would be a good reason! )

EDIT: Ahhh! It is called H-Bot! With this name it was quit easy to find more information. Now I know about the problems with the H-Bot design!

Mar 30, 2017 - Modified Mar 30, 2017
Nocturnal - in reply to cyberdyne

The obvious reason is that it reduces the printable area. You lose the width of the steppers from the build area, at the back and you don't get it back at the front because of the print head. Or to put it another way, the steppers at the front take up no print space because the print head already limits the motion in that direction, but if you put them at the back they are taking up usable print area. You could flip the print head, which would give you back some print area, but not all of it (since the print head cannot move past the Z rails).

H-bot configuration has skew/rotate issues (it tries to rotate the x-ax when moving). The whole reason corexy is invented is to mitigate this (it moves this rotate force onto the carriage alone instead of the whole ax). You can also have corexy that crosses belts in the back and then have it all in one plane, its actually what the alu version and the old smartcore and the original corexy that do this http://corexy.com/implementation.html. What you see is that the belts are crossed and thereby at an angle in the back. However the alternate corexy is using 2 planes like on hypercube and has advantage that all belts run straight + mitigates the h-bot issue http://reprap.org/wiki/CoreXY

Mar 24, 2017 - Modified Mar 24, 2017

I have a few questions. Does this printer support direct drive? If it does, does it have the same mounting as a prusa i3 x carraige? Also, about how much does one of these printers cost? Lastly, what is the maximum print size? Thank you

Hi mikelee69

here an X-carriage with redesigned mounting holes so it can mount any i3 rework extruder (and a custom direct that I did, but it is far from being perfect)


Hypercube X carriage with i3 rework compatible mount
by pivan
Apr 2, 2017 - Modified Apr 2, 2017
mikelee69 - in reply to pivan

Thanks! Just curious, how do I attach parts to the tslot without drilling? or is drilling required? Also, is this good place to buy tslot from? https://8020.net/shop/20-2020-black-fb.html#product_tabs_cad Also, does the extruder motor benefit from having a 400 steps per revolution motor in comparison to the 200 steps per revolution motor? Do you guys have end stops/ bed leveling sensors you would reccomend? there are alot to decide from. Finally, if I have a 300mmx200mm heated bed, is it better if I have motor on both side? as far as the bed goes, is it okay if i just have pei on this heated bed http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Heated-Bed-MK2A-Larger-Print-Size-300x200-mm-for-3D-Printer-Prusa-i3-/112096941232?hash=item1a197f94b0:g:A6IAAOSwgZ1XsitJ or this bed http://www.ebay.com/itm/MK2A-300x200-mm-PCB-Heated-Hot-Bed-for-RepRap-3D-Printer-Prusa-i3-Upgrade-/111715464601?hash=item1a02c2b599:g:ZowAAOSw~bFWGL2G ? btw, which bed is better if i just put pei on top. It is the ultem pei with adhesive.

I suggest that you don't buy your 2020 extrusions from the company 8020. Their 2020 has slots that are 5.26 mm wide and will not work with widely available T-Nuts. You will regret having bought this material. Look for 2020 with 6 mm slots which work with all the T-Nuts available on Amazon, EBay, and Bangood.

I am new to corexyz 3d printers, where do I find the right 2020 extrusion?

Apr 2, 2017 - Modified Apr 2, 2017
henryarnold - in reply to mikelee69

Here's where I bought mine:
You can also get them from Misumi. (I just checked and I don't see that Misumi carries Series 6 which is 6 mm slot)
Recently someone posted a link to a company that will provide a kit although the lengths may not be what you want.

Yes someone did a direct drive implementation. check the remixes. I don't know if it uses the same mount as a Prusa i3 X carriage. Check the remix. Some people claim to build this printer for $280. I think $450 is a more realistic budget if you use quality parts. It will cost somewhere between those two numbers. The stock maximum print size is 200 x 200 x 155. Many people slightly enlarge the frame to print around 250 x 220 x 200. Mine is 250 x 200 x 180 and I used all stock parts except I used a solid 8 mm X bearing rod and 10 mm Z bearing rods.

Mar 24, 2017 - Modified Mar 24, 2017
henryarnold - in reply to henryarnold

Here are two direct drive HyperCube examples. There may be others.


HyperCube E3D Titan Mount with BLTouch and Radial Fan
Hypercube E3D Titan carriage


this is the issue I am having now. Any ideas? I'm going to change one Ooze Control setting, run a test print, and so on and so on.

wow. can you tell me about your settings? If you posted them somewhere else I didn't see it.


my current settings in screenshots

couple things for you to try....
retract distance 3.50
retract speed 100mm/s
coast distance 1.00
and you are printing way to fast. I set my hypercube around 40mm/s
you have 100 and that's just too fast.
40 will give you much better prints...

running a test print right now with your suggested settings

Completed my build yesterday and after a few hiccups here and there it works pretty darn well! Still have some Z axis play on one side but aside from that the prints look awesome! Thanks for this design Tech2C, it's such a great base to work with and expand :)

How much did the whole project cost you? Thinking of building one myself ! :)


Mar 24, 2017 - Modified Mar 24, 2017

Love the design, excellent and fairly cheap upgrade path from prusa i3. Well constructed and charming video tutorial. Getting quality prints from the hypercube. TIP THIS DESIGNER so we can see more great things! thank you Tech2c!

Wow, thank you for your generous tip! Totally not required but thank you anyways :)

Tech2C, any chance to upload pictures from the final build from different angles. Would be beneficial to see how things come together.

kind regards

I went back and took screenshots from various build angles however, due to the nature of the build log series and the improvements he has since made from the initial videos, its recommended to re-watch the videos one more time to be caught up to speed and then refer back to said screenshots. Also, some of the images may be blurry due to the fact that I had to pause the videos in certain key points in order to get an actual useable photo, so bear with them as they are not perfect but should help clear some things up. http://xomf.com/g/yxdff

oh common guys... you call yourself makers... this is a rough outline on how to build the hypercube. its better then that actually.. you will be forced to figure a few things out on your own.. that's the reason we all do this.. we love the problem solving.. tech2c could have just posted pictures and said what do you think guys. he has gone above and beyond. better then most Instructables if you ask me...
well done Tech2c. keep up the magnificent work. most of us appreciate your hard work

Did you build one? Why this offence? The point is there where several changes during the built and it would be more clear if there were pictures from the latest built stage. As with so many things the devil is in the detail and pictures could help avoid disappointments and false assembling.
Anyhow Tech2c did a good job with this construction and as I believe inspired many people to build their own 3D printer. But there are people out there who are not so technically skilled why shouldn't they have a chance to build one as well?

Mar 22, 2017 - Modified Mar 22, 2017
AnukWolf - in reply to Golkun

Agreed, I'm almost done building mine and I stumbled upon various little problems and things I didn't originally notice in the build log.
Tech2c also seems to have missed to mention some things he changed, for example, that he swapped out the 4 screws for the heat bed. I tried using the 4 screws that originally came with the springs but my hotend almost crashed into the front left one because the screw head is too large. Now I'm using no springs and 20mm M3 screws, as the 40mm ones he uses aren't mentioned anywhere.

So long story short, I love the concept but there's still some missing info and small adjustments to be made to make this truly "user-friendly" and easy to build.

Mar 30, 2017 - Modified Mar 30, 2017
Hydrate - in reply to AnukWolf

The spring kit from banggood mentioned in the BOM comes with the 40mm screws.

In the set I brought the springs were very hard to compress and the screws they included were cap screws that stick quite far out of the bed. The knobs they sent were good though

So I ended up replacing the screws and springs with

Mar 30, 2017 - Modified Mar 30, 2017
AnukWolf - in reply to Hydrate

Yeah, that's what I meant. I'll go get some new screws as well soon,
for now though I just moved the Y-Endstop a bit forward with some zipties, it works great :D

While I can't make use of UK links (German here), they'll definitely help me to find the right stuff,
so thank you!

@Tech2C that would be great!

I second this. Getting all the angles from the build log videos are pretty tricky.

It has been a pleasure to build the Hypercube. Made some final adjustments. I only have a noisy Y-axis and was wondering if anyone else has tried the Drylin bushings (Tech2C did it). Switching from "brass" to plastic has been a great improvement in both noise and smoothness.

Overall I am very happy with the printer. Some comments:

  • There is some play in the Z-carriage due to the nuts. I can tighten it, but not completely.
  • I am thinking of switching the carriage to the version made by Artur. Changing things is very labour intensive.

The print quality is impressive!

I'm using Drylin bushings and 10mm carbon fibre tubes. I also switched from LMUU8 bearings to Drylin in the 8mm rods. Silence really is golden.

If anyone, like me, had a lot of trouble finding the T-slot extruded aluminium in Europe (Denmark), I can really recommend www.motedis.com.
German company with all you will ever need regarding aluminium profiles and accessories.
I ordered a complete frame from the BOM with 1M extra for future upgrades for 23 Euro. Everything cut to length and perfect finish.

I can confirm, ordered mine also at Motedis. All cut in length, fits perfect.

Mar 22, 2017 - Modified Mar 22, 2017
3DHEIJ - in reply to LaDK

Everything cut to length? I see a minimum length of 50cm. How did you manage cut to <50?? Very nice site by the way, thanks.

You select your preferred slot (in my case 20x20 B-Type Slot 6). On the product page you can type your own custom length, from 50mm to 1980mm.

Anyone know if esteps can be changed DURING a print through gcode? I want to increase my extruder esteps a bit.

M221 S100 ; Set extrude factor override percentage

I belive that 10pcs F608ZZ Flange Bearing will not going to use in this build. I just realize that i have purchased a week ago and from the videos will not going to use them. Tech2c please remove the 10pcs F608ZZ Flange Bearing from the BOM.

Ok I've removed them from the BOM. There's been quite a few queries regarding those bearings, so they've been chopped...!
As others and myself have mentioned they can be used for spool holders, and also the Z_Leadscrew_Support (although not mandatory).

Mar 21, 2017 - Modified Mar 21, 2017
Nelujones - in reply to Tech2C

Yes I understand that perfectly and you all have right but you have mencioned like the spool holder an optional accesories. Mine I will use them in another projects. I belive that the best will be to point that like ( use for spool holder ). By the way Tech2c I am designer like you and many others and there are a lot of variation of core/xy printer but this is the only printer that have a real community and a good video build guide. SO... FROM A DESIGNER TO ANOTHER I REALY COULD NOT MODIFIE ANYTHING BEACOUSE ITS THE BEST AND SIMPLE DESIGND THAT COULD SEE ON THE RED. GREATINGS FOR THAT.

Thank you for your kind words, I'm just glad to share and help everyone with projects like this ;)

You could use them on my Spool Holder, like I did ^^

Universal Filament Spool Holder
by butchja

if anyone needs to make longer ribbon cables for the RepRapSmart Controller LCD display I have the parts to make them any length you need. I ordered 300 feet of the cable and 50 or so of the connectors. If yo need them let me know.

What will it cost and where do you live (for the shipping)? I might be interested

shipping out of Towson, MD 21286. $10 plus shipping

Hi, This is nice project. I have one printer a prusa version, but i want to build one but i want to encloser it, i saw this one and it seems to be easy to enclosure but how it is possible to cover the upper side. Any ideias ? Anyone did that ? Thanks

Tunnelplan 3D printer

Where do you actually want to add the nyloc nuts? I assembled most things with the usual nuts by now, so I'd like to change it on the necessary things before doing assembling any further.

You don't even need them, honestly. They're more trouble than they're worth. Normal ones work fine.

i used them everywhere except for the captured nuts

Put them on every place where something could get loose because of movemen e.g. screws for XY idler and xy joiner pulleys.

30x20 or 30x30 print area Hello friends, I think. the original piece, according to how many measurements are supposed to be.

4 x 340mm (X)
4 x 303mm (Y)
4 x 350mm (Z)
2 x 285mm (Bed)
1 x 135mm (Bed)

How do you connect the inductive sensor to the extruder mount

There's a small bracket you'll need to print and attach.

Would it be ok to print all the parts out of PLA just to get me up and running and then reprint them with the Hypercube out of PETG? I can get the parts printed locally out of PLA a lot cheaper then I can out of PETG.

Mine is made of PLA, its working 100% well. PLA is a lot stronger than you think

Ya that would be fine PLA isn't as weak and people say so I wouldn't even rush out reprint the parts until you have the machine really well dialed in.

How many microns would you have them printed in? 200 or 300?

I print most stuff at 250. 300 the layers are to visible and 200 just takes to long. The infill is more important.

Mar 17, 2017 - Modified Mar 17, 2017
3DHEIJ - in reply to 556duckvader

That's no problem. My hypercube also consists only of PLA. I think PET-G is actually a bit too soft and eventually go for LW-ABS.

I am in the process of building one. The problem I am running into now is with the bed. I have 2 smooth rods and the single z t8 lead screw. If I push on either side up or down, the bed tilts, about 2mm. This seems to be due to the slop in the T8 and the nut. How have others dealt with this issue?


You can try making a brace to hold the bed up. Or you can modify it and put a third rod on one of the sides, although I dont think bed sag is that big of a deal.

how much would everything cost in the us?

About $300-$350 for me.

Approximately $250-$300, depending on if you order from USA or import from china.

search price in these comments, I have a comment where I expand on the total cost by including tools and additional items that help or are required.

Where do I attach the fans for the extruded?

Mar 17, 2017 - Modified Mar 17, 2017
makeshift_ - in reply to xd00z1

D9 http://i.imgur.com/KOjq6ri.jpg

you don't have to solder headers where it says for the extruder fan. I just put it directly into the 12v input on the ramps. Only because I forgot before I connected it to the arduino.

Which fan is which?

the cooling fan is the radial fan that sits on top of the e3d mount, the extruder fan is the other one, the one blowing over the heatsink on the e3d.

Sorry to bother you again, but how do you attach the proximity sensor to the e3d mount?

the cooling fan goes in the e3d mount at the top. https://i.ytimg.com/vi/BtmDortWBnY/maxresdefault.jpg

Where on the ramps board

I have printed all the parts for the X Carriage, and I am having a problem with my bearings binding when they approach the XY Joiner. Has anyone else experienced this problem? I am wondering if the parts I am printing are too far out of spec.

Do you mean bushings? Or are you using linear bearings?

If linear bearings and you are getting binding - somethings has to be really wrong. The LM8UU's are pretty tolerant of misalignment, within reason of course.

I'm going to assume bushings.

Do any of the bushings bind by themselves on the aluminum?

Have you measured the diameter of your rod? And the internal diameter of the bushing? My first aluminum rod was squished so it wasn't circle it was oval. Make sure you check multiple dimensions and places in your linear rails. The second one I got was bent and would bind at the joiners - i really couldn't tell by rolling it though. I'm assuming that is what it was, because I got my third and it came in a sturdy box. Measured well, and are on the printer, which is currently printing.

Measure between the center of your bushings in the xy carriage and then the center points for the rails in the xy joiner. you might not be able to see a small difference, but something larger might be apparent.

Have you tightened down your the rods in your joiners?

How far from the joiner is it binding? Try spinning the rails, one at a time, 90 degrees and see if that changes anything. A change here would signal a bent linear rod, I would think.

I realized I was having a two-fold problem. First, my supports had minor warping that was causing the rods to not be straight. Second, I realized I bought the wrong bearings and they weren't self lubricating.

Rails are smooth as butter now!

Mar 15, 2017 - Modified Mar 15, 2017

Hello All,

Thank you Tech2C for sharing your design and thank you all for your contributions!

I am going to start building my printer and after I did cut the TSlot 2020 with the dimensions listed in the BOM I was watching the log videos noticing that the dimensions are different as mentioned in early videos. Are the dimensions listed in the BOM the right ones?

Thank you in advance for your reply.

The Dimensions in the BOM are right


where are F608ZZ bearings installed?

You need one for the lead screw support (which in turn you only need when using a spring coupler for the lead screw) and the others are for the optional spool holder.

Mar 15, 2017 - Modified Mar 15, 2017
godz320 - in reply to AnukWolf

thank you!

then why did I buy more than one ?!:) ok I'll use them in other places or projects :)

Can anyone send me the files for this? I know Tech2C doesnt release them, but I know a few people out there have to have modeled everything up on onshape or something and I can't get the openscad to work.


Also looking for the Cad files (preferably Solidworks). I'd like to modify the hypercube frame for a pick and place setup. Figured I would ask before remodeling everything.

I have everything in cad (solidworks) but I have redesigned a lot of parts and it isn't completely tested at this point. Also mine is made for a 300X300X500 build volume.

Are you open to sharing your solidworks files?

Once they are tested and approved ;) you can find my make already, just didn't add any files yet :)

I have my 500mm cubed frame already to go but trying to buy a straight 5mm smooth rod met in complete failure so I want to go to this but using V-Slot wheels. Any solidworks files would be fine if 2014, or before when solidworks was really good, or in a solid format that 2014 can work with *I despised 2015 and 2016/17 was just junky imo so I went back to 2014".

I would advise against 5mm rods for a printer that size. Mine already uses 8mm - 10mm for that axis and that's a 300 X 300 X 500 build volume, files will be up later today if I don't forget it :P

This was just to get the right side to move the left side (motor was on the right side) so was fine for that but no rod can I get straight. 8mm rod I probably could have (600mm long) from Mitsumi but at 22+shipping and there are no 16t 8mm gt2 gears I can't get the design to work. I can't simply use a motor on one side because the wheels deflect and one side will always lag. Think of the 5mm as that which is used in a Flashforge for Y so each side of Y is driven by a single motor.

what problem are you having with the openscad version? I have it and it works just fine for me. I may fail is you select draw total assembly and it will take a good amount of time to render the entire printer. Render each part and then export it to an .stl file.

does anyone have a link to the pillowblock holding the bearing for the 8mm leadscrew of z axis please?


I am trying to decide whether or not to twist the belts. I have been running an I3 for 3 years and the belts are not twisted and the teeth on the belt look like brand new. My thought is it is not necessary to twist the belts. I am now doing a survey to see what percentage of people have twisted belts. Please answer my 1 question survey, it is anonymous. Thanks

Survey https://www.surveymonkey.com/r/DGRF6BK


Mar 13, 2017 - Modified Mar 13, 2017
henryarnold - in reply to n9jcv

I did not twist my belts and after 3 months I have had no wear or problems .

Today I thought that the fact that not twisting the belt and running the teeth over the 6203 bearings caused the vibrations, I twisted the belts so the back of the belt is going over the bearing ... sadly no change :( :(

i twisted mine. I am not seeing anything wrong with doing it. There is plenty of clearance so I figured I'd try it. I think it works equally well either way for what I personally expect the life of the belt to be.