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HyperCube 3D Printer

by Tech2C, published

HyperCube 3D Printer by Tech2C Sep 4, 2016

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Summary

Upgrade your 3D Printer to this frame! Re-use your motors, electronics, hotend, heatbed, etc...

Watch how the HyperCube came to be:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n2jM6v3E7sU&list=PLIaArjwViQRVAERWRrYfe9rtiwvvRGCzw

I wanted to reduce the weight of the moving mass as much as possible. As the entire X-gantry is moving in the Y direction, the rails for the X axis should be light too. I chose to use 10mm anodised aluminium tubing, which is half the weight of 8mm steel rods.

Marlin 1.1-RC8 configuration.h file attached.

BOM

Frame:
T-Slot 2020 (Slot/Type 6) Aluminium Extrusion Profiles for X200 x Y200 x Z155 print bed area
(Note: If you intend to make a larger print area, then increase the length of the 2020 extrusions AND rods for each axis by the difference)

  • 4 x 340mm (X)
  • 4 x 303mm (Y)
  • 4 x 350mm (Z)
  • 2 x 285mm (Bed)
  • 1 x 135mm (Bed)

Fixings

CoreXY + Z + Bowden Drive System:

Fixings

Motors, Electronics and Accessories:

Print settings:

  • 3 Perimeters
  • 3 top/bottom layers
  • 0.25mm layer height (or better)
  • 50% infill

Print 1 of everything except below:

  • 2 x Z_Carriage
  • 4 x Z_Carriage_Clamp
  • 4 x Z_Shaft_Clamp_v1.1
  • 2 x XY_Clamp_v1.1
  • 2 x XY_Joiner_v1.1
  • 2 x XY_Idler
  • 3 x Y_Shaft_Clamp
  • 4 x Bed_Support_v1.1
  • 2 x Dual_Bushing_Holder

Some useful extras:
HyperCube 3D Printer Accessory Pack
Compact Bowden Extruder, 1.75mm Filament for MK7 Drive Gear
Various Z nut mounts for Integrated Leadscrew Motors

X-Axis 10mm Anodised Aluminium alternatives
If you can't find 10mm x 360mm anodised aluminium tubes for X axis, then here are 2 alternatives:
HyperCube XY_Joiner for 8mm rods on X-Gantry
X Carriage Mod for 3/8" Rod and Bearing for HyperCube 3D Printer

Notes:

  • Bed_Support_v1.1 for revised bed configuration (build log video #11)
  • Z Endstop v1.1 for revised bed configuration.
  • Z_Motor v1.1 and Z_Shaft_Clamp v1.1 for bottom mounted motor
  • Fan_Duct v1.1 with extra clearance for E3D silicone socks
  • Fan_Duct v1.2 for easier bridge printing
  • X-Carriage v1.1 provides extra support to belt mount.
  • XY Joiner/Clamp v1.1 supports longer bearing LM8LUU and dual LM8UU bearings.
  • Configuration.h files updated to Marlin 1.1-RC8
  • Removed old file versions. Can be found here http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2013921
  • E3D (Inductive) Sensor Mount v1.1 for improved sensor mount stability

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Anyone know what size extrusions i should use for the bed if i'm doing a 12x12 (300x300mm) bed? thanks.

1 day ago - Modified 1 day ago
logicfry - in reply to TheBasedDoge

For the bed I'm using 2 z lift motors and 4 z bars.
447mm x2
243mm x2

For the frame
747mm x4
413mm x4
450mm x4

I wanted extra room underneath for the electronics.
http://www.thingiverse.com/make:329822

HyperCube 3D Printer

Thanks. That gives me more questions though. What size rods did you use for the Z? I think the 8mm will flex too much. And also what kind of rods are you using for the X?

I just used 8mm for the z rails but I'm using 4 of them 2 on each side. Using 10mm carbon fiber rods print head to ride on. If you are only going to use 2 rods for the z axis yeah your going to have flex in them.

does the corexy have any advantage over the H bot gantry? To me the H bot seems like a more study design and a little simpler belting but what do i know.

http://www.galilmc.com/news/whats-new-galil/white-paper-introducing-galils-new-h-bot-firmware

Here's one person's analysis:
http://www.doublejumpelectric.com/projects/core_xy/2014-07-15-core_xy/

Here's a CoreXY tutorial which makes it easier to understand how CoreXY works:
http://corexy.com/theory.html

Comments deleted.
2 days ago - Modified 2 days ago

I've made a little improvement to my make.

I've added a 24V PSU to power the heatbed via a MOSFET switch. The heatbed is still wired as if it was connected to 12V but with 24V it heats like greased lightning.
All the rest of the electronics are powered by the 12V PSU. The output of the electronics which would normally power the heatbed are now used to switch the MOSFET, which reduces the load on the electronics onboard MOSFET to almost 0 amps.

Hi, I intend to do the same. Did you use any special settings in the controller firmware to prevent the heated bed from drawing a lot of current at once. My controller supports 24V and I have a 24V power supply but I have an old 12V MK2A heat bed which I want to reuse. Can you share a picture of your setup.

Thanks

1 day ago - Modified 18 hours ago
TechGirl_Mods - in reply to blowfish2003

My controller also supports the use of 24V, but, I am actually using 2 power supplies one 12V and one 24V.
The controller is wired up to use 12V for everything and I am also using a MK2A heatbed wired for 12V.
The heatbed output of the controller is only used to switch the MOSFET via an opto-isolator, which in turn connects the 24V to the heatbed. At no time is the 24V connected directly to the controller it is only connected to the heatbed via the MOSFET switch.
The effect of all this is to at least double the power of the heatbed.
For the diagram see my make http://www.thingiverse.com/make:319553

You can get the same or similar MOSFET switch from various suppliers including the ones here:

amazon.com

Banggood

Aliexpress

HyperCube 3D Printer

This thing looks frickin awesome!

I stupidly bought a cheap Chinese i3 clone which I've been tinkering with for the past month and I'm still not happy with the print quality. It's the crappy frame that's the problem (8mm laser cut acrylic); it seems to have way too much flex/play and generally isn't very well made. I may have to look into building one of these if I can't improve my prints (got a few more things to try first).

I'm assuming all my parts will be fine (Geeetech i3 X)?

2 days ago - Modified 2 days ago

Does anyone know the specifications of the lead screw he is using I know its t8 but what is the pitch, is it 2mm, 4mm, or 8mm

I use T8 2mm. The Z steps in the configuration.h works out to 1600 with the stepper jumpers set to 1/16th step resolution.

He mentions that he uses screws with 8mm lead in a video, but you could use something else.

Hi,
I would like to make this 3D printer. Thanks the great develop. I have a 3D Qu-Bd printer for printing the parts but I created some tests and I think I will not be able to print hole parts (XY joiner with bridges) or are there any special know how? for printing?

Anyone know where to source the 10mm rod for the X? Literally can't find it anywhere... US shipping preferred.

I believe that this company will be able to make them for you I haven't called yet but it might be a good try.

http://www.metricmetal.com/products/rdalum_tube.htm

Or you could use 10mm Carbon fiber tubes. They're easy to find on banggood

do they have the same "properties" as aluminium?

2 days ago - Modified 2 days ago
Farnomat - in reply to Enikka

Yep, Tech2C did a video on them and uses Carbon fiber tubes himself now:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Pg-L1pQ6qU&t

1 day ago - Modified 1 day ago
Enikka - in reply to Farnomat

Thanks for the tip then!

That is 10mm steel, not aluminium. Steel is very heavy and I don't recommend using that.

Within the description scroll down to see alternatives to using 10mm aluminium rod. The easiest is using 8mm steel (although still heavy), or 3/8 aluminum if you're within USA.

I found 3/8 aluminium for sale on mcmaster. I guess i will go with that.

Oooh didn't thought about that :/
I'll see when i get them and find replacement if needed

need a little help, when i home X or Y the wrong access homes resulting in a crash, also the controls on pronterface are switched.

Your two motor connectors are either switched on the Ramps, or they're plugged in the wrong way (flip them so that one side of the connector is on the other side)

so is there an expected cost on this build. and can i use this designs on a bigger printer like 70x70x70cm?

Hi All,

Just started collecting all the parts for my 24"x24"x24" build with 80/20 series 15 just waiting for a few more parts to arrive to start the build

The most challenging part so far was to find the bars. I'll keep you posted on how the build goes!

24" cube build volume? Noice! Make it a triple Z motor axis. That way you can have motorized bed leveling!

Any good links for examples of the triple Z motor axis? I've seen one or two I think.

Honestly I haven't seen that many other than a few on Youtube. If you do it, it'll be a little experimental I suppose.
Repetier firmware supports motorized bed leveing. Not sure about Marlin.

So I finished my hypercube and had a crazy thought could you use the hypercube as a Cnc

yes, that is indeed possible. I want to use mine as a laser engraver (maybe even cutter)

Let me know if you make mounts for the laser engraver

There is already one:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2250599
The dimensions of the laser you want to buy should be the same, but I would check if they are

500mw Laser mount for Hypercube X Carriage

Has anyone made this printer with 300mm on the X axis using carbon fiber tubes? Do they sag? (a build volume of 300mm would require 460mm tubes)

Yes. and no, respectively. Using an e3d big bed (325x225). 10mm carbon fiber tubes. No sag.

How's your experience with the carbon tubes? I've completed an entire roll plus a bit extra and can confirm it's working awesome!
Are you using polymer bushings or the self lubricating steel?

I'm thinking of updating the BOM to incorporate the carbon tubes. Thoughts?

I went with a pair of the 20mm polymer bushings per mount, and discovered steel wool and mounting the rod in a powerdrill worked best for smoothing out the carbon tube.

You should absolutely update the BOM for carbon, as it's easy to find. I'd recommend linking the 20mm bushings over the 10's, i found the 20s to be more forgiving if the print comes out slightly too large -- the 10s can slip out, but the 20s have more surface area.

Cool, I'll go with a 300x300 bed. Now I'm sure about the carbon fiber tubes.

Can the hypercube be built around 1010 extrusion?

Sure, but you need to edit/create other printed parts, cause the holes wouldnt fit

Great! CAD time!!!

I'd imagine you'll also need different T nuts.

Rats,rats,rats.When I tried to print a test cube,the bed dropped like a stone to the bottom and crashed into the power supply:(.
I'm about ready to throw this thing at the cat.Try again tomorrow.

Why did it fall? As long as you screw everything in you shouldn't have this problem?

It didn,t fail as such,the motor turned really fast, and pulled the bed down before I could cut the power.
I,m going to try reflashing the firmware and start from scratch.

Oh, ok. Your Z motor is probably not plugged in correctly, I would flip the connector around and try it again

Apr 18, 2017 - Modified Apr 18, 2017

Got my z axis to home at the top,but once the endstop has been triggered,the bed will not lower.
If I remove the power,and move the z leadscrew by hand to lower the bed,i get the following:
I can move the bed up10mm,then I can move down10mm,but no more down.
This has me tearing out the little hair i have left.Any suggestions?

I fixed it,i think..I changed the endstop cable on the ramps board to the z-max position,and changed marlin to reflect said change,e.g.commented out the z-min endstop,and substituted the z-max.
Now to see if it will actually print the right way.

Does anyone have a XY Joiner model/stl that works with the Y axis as 19mm bearing (10mm Y steel rod) and the X axis 3/8"? I have looked around and found half of this puzzle but not the whole thing. I would make it myself if I was a modeler like many of you. Thanks beforehand for the help!!!

6 days ago - Modified 6 days ago
tgmorris99 - in reply to thehands1

You could use this as a starting point but would need to shrink the 10mm to your 3/8" requirements. Or switch to 10mm steel rods instead of anodized aluminum or CF tube.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2012264

Xy-joiner for 10mm Y-Axis (19mm bushings) Hypercube 3D Printer
by mbruehl

where do I find the cork that tech2c uses on the bottom of his heated bed?

I think he uses a cork tile which you buy in a hardware place.I got a sheet of self adhesive 1/8th cork from an arts supply.

Oops,sorry'bout the large font:).

Found another problem.I have the Z motor at the bottom of the frame.Z endstop fitted at the top.
When homing the Z axis,bed goed up and triggers the endstop.So far,so good.But when I try to move the bed down,there is no movement at all.I'm almost sure I've got an endstop setting wrong somewhere.
Here are my settings in Marlin 1.8.1.

//==============================//===========================================================================
Endstop Settings ===========================
//===========================================================================

// @section homing

// Specify here all the endstop connectors that are connected to any endstop or probe.
// Almost all printers will be using one per axis. Probes will use one or more of the
// extra connectors. Leave undefined any used for non-endstop and non-probe purposes.

define USE_XMIN_PLUG

define USE_YMIN_PLUG

define USE_ZMIN_PLUG

//#define USE_XMAX_PLUG
//#define USE_YMAX_PLUG
//#define USE_ZMAX_PLUG

// coarse Endstop Settings

define ENDSTOPPULLUPS // Comment this out (using // at the start of the line) to disable the endstop pullup resistors

if DISABLED(ENDSTOPPULLUPS)

// fine endstop settings: Individual pullups. will be ignored if ENDSTOPPULLUPS is defined
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMAX
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMAX
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMAX
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMIN
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMIN
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN_PROBE

endif

// Mechanical endstop with COM to ground and NC to Signal uses "false" here (most common setup).

define X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.

define Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.

define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.

define X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.

define Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.

define Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.

//#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.

// Enable this feature if all enabled endstop pins are interrupt-capable.
// This will remove the need to poll the interrupt pins, saving many CPU cycles.
//#define ENDSTOP_INTERRUPTS_FEATURE

Could someone whose setup works successfully please copy all their endstop settings from marlin and show them here?
Many thanks.

On testing my hcube,I found the printer making horrible grinding noises as the x travelled along.The y motor was not moving,just vibrating back and forth a little.The cause was found to be one pair of coils on the y motor connected the wrong way around!Don't trust the colours of wiring on any chinese made stepper or cable!Use an led to test.
Moving smoothly now,just have to reverse the Z endstop,as the bed wants to home to the bottom of the printer.
FWIW, when using the chinese made Dupont style connectors,the pins are very loose in the socket.This can lead to the pins being pushed out as the socket is inserted on the ramps board.(or whatever you've got).Found this out the hard way,took me a while to notice the offending pin sticking up out of the socket:(..In short,make sure the pins are all the way in,and stay there.
Also,my lcd screen is a dud,it has most of 1 line of text missing.Tried a different set of cables,no change.New one on order.

I am debating between direct drive and bowden. I want to print flexible filament. Will a bowden tube on this 3d printer this printer be the equivalent of a direct drive? This is the direct drive I was looking at. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2206602
I will be using pancake motors to reduce weight

HyperCube Dual Extruder
by Teila

That is a geared direct drive system you linked. In general direct drive, or geared direct drives, are easier to run flexable filament through. Bowden is better if you want lightweight though. Kinda have to pick which is more important to you.=]

I don't know if anybody else has posted this yet, but for those in the US that are trying to make a Hypercube and are ordering from McMaster Carr, the 2020 aluminum extrusions that they sell won't work with the other parts that are listed in the BOM. The T-slots on their aluminum extrusions are actually only 5mm wide, so the hammer nuts will fit lengthwise, but then won't turn to lock in place. I ended up ordering (or rather re-ordering...) all of my rails from Misumi USA. If this doesn't work, then I'm screwed. I'll reply to this comment in a week to say whether or not the Misumi stuff works.

Just know - the McMaster-Carr rails DO NOT WORK with the listed hammer nuts!

I am working with 80/20 series 10 and 15 and reworking all of Tech2C's into the US tubing. I also decided to go big 24x24x24

jinx: good information for those that are starting to collect parts for the build. I wish I had known that before lol! I bought all of the parts from banggood and waited on the rails because I didn't want to have the frame and not be able to do anything with it. I probably should've bought the frame first, but...oh well :) Price you pay for playing the game I guess

Chr_s: excellent to hear! Thanks for the info!

i used that style extrusion with a 5 mm gap, used m4 bolt & nuts with angle and wriggle its possible to slip the m4 nuts in place where ever you need them.

Hi, I ordered the HFS5-2020 from Misumi and it works great with the cheap chinese m5 t-slot sliding nuts. So you can rest easy, It will work.

Comments deleted.

I have just comitted to making one of these, from what Tech2C has been blogging his make, it shouldn't be too dificult to build.
Excellent how to videos, but the real test will be when I actually start into doing the tricky stuff.

Apr 15, 2017 - Modified Apr 15, 2017

Does anyone has any suggestion for a bigger nema 17 motor for the dual z axis? I having problem with my spare one to raise the bed. it turn fine if I help holding it from the bottom. but it wont raise it self like its grinding at the lead screw nut. btw the weight of my bed will be heavy around 15 lbs with the glass top

6.8kg (15lbs) is quite a lot for a bed... o.O
May I ask for your bed size?! I have apporx 35x25cm (14"x10") and I am nowhere near your weight WITH a glass top.
Think about reducing weight as well, this might spare you some $$$.

I would go with dual 48mm NEMA17 motors

Are there more people who think that a dual partcooler will improve the printquality? Or will that be overkill? Looking for solutions but did not find a good option. any ideas?

It won't be overkill. You might have to turn their speed down a bit while printing, so you don't cool down your nozzle or have warping/layer adhesion problems.

I don't have a heated bed so everytime I go to print it just says temp error please reset. how do I disable heated bed in marlin?

If you don't use a heated bed, you have to disable it in the Marlin firmware and re-upload it to the printer

Where in marlin?

I think you have to switch the "TEMP_SENSOR_BED" to 0

You could just plug a thermistor into T1, but I didnt and I didnt get any errors. Thats odd. Try disabling T1 in firmware, configuration.h

what about the space on the botton where X hit the Z (t-slot), you left a bit of space as stud but how much?

What space are you talking about?

How to print XY_Idler i dont get a good result for this piece?

Ramps 1.4 or MKS V1.5 ??
Either or?
Pro's Con's ??

As part of my rebuild I will be using a Re-arm for Ramps and a RAMPS 1.4, which gives me the benefit of a 32bit processor. The only downside is there is no Marlin 32bit at the moment, although it is coming in due time.

Thanks TechGirl! I hadn't heard of Re-arm until you mentioned it.
I may well get one, if only to get to play with Smoothieware :-)

https://www.panucatt.com/Re_ARM_for_RAMPS_p/ra1768.htm. You will have to pay import duty and VAT, unfortunately.
It's so easy to configure, you just place the precompilled binary and config.txt on the SD card. After that any changes to the configuration are made be modifying the config.txt file.

does it run Marlin or its own firmware?

It runs smoothieware but they are developing a 32bit version of Marlin. The advantage of the Re-ARM is that you get the power of 32bits and the RAMPS 1.4 plugs straight in, so no wiring changes.

Yeah! I've kinda come to accept that our government will screw us at every opportunity :-)
Indeed, it seams real simple.

i'm considering using a smoothie board.......i have a spare ramps 1.4 board so i may wind up using that in the interim

Apr 16, 2017 - Modified Apr 16, 2017
henryarnold - in reply to mlbuxbaum

I have MKS Gens on both my HyperCube and my Prusa i3. They are Mega+Ramps compatible but in one board. I like the JST connectors which matched my original HicTop controller. There really isn't much difference electrically to the Ramps. MKS skipped the reset-able fuse which I hear can cause problems. I would say the quality is better depending on where you buy your Ramps. MKS also claims better power conversion on board than Ramps. I don't have direct experience because I haven't run with a Ramps setup.

I'd use the MKS GEN-L. Unless you buy an expensive brand-name RAMPS you risk getting cheap Chinese crap which melts the second you turn it on, I've had two cheap RAMPS boards do this. MKS GEN-L runs Marlin or Repetier (whichever you prefer) and you can change the stepper drivers. The GEN-L is half the price of the old MKS GEN.

I would take the ramps because:
Cheaper
Bigger community

It's your choice though

I see in one of the photos that you moved the Bowen mount to the right side of the printer. Do you have the updated STL file for that?

You don't need a different file for that, you can just move the extruder where you want it

i finished my build today and did some testprints.
If I print round things, the extruded circles overlap for about 5mm. What am I doing wrong? :)

I bought a 300x300 MK2 heatbed for my new build.....https://goo.gl/photos/RokJoQiGcLDYuCSx7
Has anyone used this one or one similar? Do i need to back it with another aluminum frame or use it by itself? Its failrly flimsy and not flat at all......

Apr 16, 2017 - Modified Apr 16, 2017
mikelee69 - in reply to mlbuxbaum

can you post link for that bed? All the beds 300 x 300 I find say that I need to supply about 350 watts. Is that the current for just the bed or the whole printer? All the beds I can find say I need to supply 24v. If I use this ramps board http://www.banggood.com/Geekcreit-RAMPS-1_4-Mega2560-A4988-2004LCD-Controller-3D-Printer-Kit-For-Arduino-Reprap-p-1110876.html?p=9X051049165582016063 can I still supply 24v?

Try gluing it onto a sheet of glass

those cheap aluminum heated bed pcb's are usually rolled aluminum and due to the stresses of the aluminum being rolled, when it heats up, it will undoubtedly bow or bend. Here's a discussion about using mic6 cast aluminum tooling plate as a bed, I will personally be trying this once I have everything. https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/4bo4q5/stop_buying_aluminum_build_plates_buy_raw_cast/

I used one of those when I built an i3 over a year ago. Mine was bowed up in the middle, I just clipped borosilicate glass to it and that pushed the middle down and made it flat. Still works today.
I would suggest insulating underneath it though, I used corrugated cardboard, which stops the airflow and makes it heat up a lot faster.

thank you

what's the diamensions from the cross member between the build platform arms to get the acme thread to line up?

I'm not sure what you mean. Do you mean the piece of alu profile which connects the two bed arms? It's in build log #11.
135mm for the middle piece and 285mm for the arms.

nah sorry, I mean the spacing from the middle piece, to a ruler butted up against the arms

So basically where the middle piece needs to be in between the arms have the leadscrew straight? If so, have the bracket screws loose on the arms so you can slide the middle piece. Then play with it back and forth and let it settle naturally. Tighten the screws careful since the torque action of the screws might push the piece forward.
After that's done, bring the Z axis down and see if the leadscrew lines up with the rods and do this again on top.

ah okies, awesome, thank you

No problem! :)

engaged with the linear rail system do you have?
I think it would be more precise, but I couldn't find any documents appropriate on the internet for this printer.

Hi! I saw in the recently added pictures that you've removed the proximity sensor... Is there any reason why? I'm about to finish mine but now I'm doubting about the Z end stop system (switch or sensor).

I've added a photo with the inductive sensor option installed.

Thanks a lot for your reply! And also for sharing this great design.

Apr 9, 2017 - Modified Apr 9, 2017
WhiteRenard - in reply to Tech2C

Hey man :)
Is there any alternative to the IGUS bushings for carbon fiber rods?

You can try the self lubricating steel bushings. Even though it's best practice to use a bushing made of a 'softer' material than the rail, I think it'll work here.

Can you add a set of closeup pictures? Seeing each major component in an assembled state would be helpful.

Thanks! The pictures make all the difference.

are you updating this page as you update your machine? I see in your videos you have changed to drylin bushings but i still see the graphite impregnated brass bushing here or whatever they are.

Apr 9, 2017 - Modified Apr 9, 2017
Tech2C - in reply to warham

Yes the page is progressively updated. The self lubricating steel bushings are the cheapest option and function just fine with aluminium/steel X axis rails.

In Build Log #15 video I discussed using non-steel bushings for X axis, and non-brass nut for Z axis. They are optional.

Also, any 1515 remixes? I want to build a mini hypercube to donate to my school.

don't think that exists yet

Anyone got that sweet remix?

I could really use an X axis with horizontal rods instead of vertical. I need the rigidity, and Ill use it to design a carraige for dual extruders. 10mm rods with the bronze bushings

Apr 6, 2017 - Modified Apr 6, 2017

okay...having a some weird issues that are driving me ABSOLUTELY FLIPPING crazy. I'm starting to think I have a bad Ramps board.
1-during a raft print, halfway through the raft, the extruder reversed direction and started retracting much faster than it was printing (FIXED-WENT TO TOOLS-FIRMWARE CONFIGURATION-COMMUNICATION and INCREASED COMMUNICATION TIMEOUT FROM 30 SEC TO 40 SECONDS)
2-sometimes when i start a print, it does pretty much the same thing. Every 4th attempt to start a print I will guess. But sometimes it doesnt for days on end.
3-I upload my marlin firmware through arduino 1.6.5, and then when I connect to the printer, the settings have not changed. I calibrated my esteps and changed them in the firmware, uploaded them and they did not change in the printer

I am getting ready to throw this printer out the window........and yet I am building another one also......it's a love hate relationship

I have been watching your posts since you completed your printer. You have had a variety of problems. Some of them solved. Some of them I am not sure what happened. I think it would be worthwhile to buy a second controller setup and see how it works. You may be right about there being something wrong with you Ramps (or your Arduino). If you send me your Configuration.h file, I'll look it over although the problems you describe don't sound like a configuration issue.

sent a link to you in a private message

Woooo Hoooo just finished my make. Printing is great even on my 2nd print!!!! check out my make!!!

Hi all,

Again, I just want to point out that there is a HyperCube Group here on Thingiverse for anyone to join.

http://www.thingiverse.com/groups/hypercube-3d-printer

It would be easier for you to post your questions and things to this group so that topics are organized and specific.

Thanks and happy printing!

Super Simple building tip for all. I am currently building my Hypercube. I have sleeved most of my cables. I did not want to just have cables, even with sleeves laying all over. I contemplated how to get the sleeved cables to stay in the 2020 tracks, then BAM, it hit me, I would just use a small piece of clear packing tape. It is great, it is clear, and you can hardly see it at all, you can put pieces every 6 inches or so and they keep the cables in the tracks. If you ever need to redo wiring, simply remove the tape, and put new tape, DIRT Cheap and quick and easy to install. Soon I should have my running then I will post my entire make. Cheers!

I use spiral cable wrap as conduit, then heat shrink in any unused grooves amazing how much crap & dirt falls into those grooves

Comments deleted.

On first print, bed starts to heat up but then ramps starts clicking vionlently, any ideas? It sounds like someone is touching the end stops like 5 times a second

Sounds like it is trying to home one of the axis. Before you actually try to print, try to use the control panel to move each axis, x, y and z separately in both directions to see if they work. If not, then you need to adjust the stepper driver current. You can google doing that. Just make sure to use a plastic adjusting tool or turn power off completely or you risk shorting a stepper driver.

not actually a problem with movement, it happens before it even homes. Right when the bed get's to 60 then it starts clicking

Mmmm.. when the bed hits 60, does the hot end starts heating up then, or is it already hot? if the hot end starts heating just at that time, I would suspect a short hot end heater or a bad fuse?
BTW are you able to home all the axis'?

Any one know the aprox cost for supply and other stuff?

Please can you tell me which voltage you have to put on each axis and to the extruder, thank you very much

Your control board will take care of it basically. You only need to adjust the stepper drivers to regulate the current. If that is what you are asking google adjusting stepper current for you specific controller. For Ramps 1.4 there are a lot of factors, but generally a stepper driver voltage of .5 is a good starting point.

thanks

Does anybody know where to get 2020 aluminum extrusion in the United States?

https://us.misumi-ec.com/ best price in the US basically and they custom cut for free to your specifications

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/262267607540
I bought this set, well, actually I bought 2 sets.
VERY fast shipping.

Have you checked openbuildspartstore.com They have good prices. I'm in Canada and I purchased from the Canadian Makerparts.ca and turned out great. (had to cut the lengths myself tho) I got the 2020 v-rails 500mm long. They worked great with the M5 Hammer Nuts.

Hope this helps.

I know the 8020.net 2020 will not work with the drop in hammer nuts. I have about $72 worth of 8020.net 2020 that I can't use and I am trying to get a refund for it. I found another place that has 2020 with a 6mm slot and I ordered some but I haven't received it yet. Once I receive it and verify it works I will post it here.

The slot size won't matter for the build. Just buy the slide in t-nuts. That's how I built my hypercube. And it prints like a dream.

Apr 2, 2017 - Modified Apr 2, 2017

Hey, just wondering if someone could remix this for me?
I have 12mm rods and LM12UU bearing for the Z and Y axis, 8mm bar and LM8UU for the X axis.

Thanks a Bunch!

EDIT: Oh! I see someone has already remixed the Z axis for 12mm!
So now looking for the X(8mm) / Y(12mm) Joiner.

Where can I find the tslot extrusions cheap?

us.misumi.ec got my entire set for $35, thats black, its around $20-$25 for silver

Uhhh what? How? When I purchased 7x 1 meter long pieces it came out to $61.60 before tax, shipping and handling.

My order for a complete Hypercube set of HFS5-2020 from Misumi, cut to size, and drilled at the ends, was 45.54 shipped. 31.65 for the the product, the rest was shipping and tax.

same here

Anybody designed or knows a Z Nut holder for the 3/8 inch ACME Nut .
This is not fitting the current Nut holes .
The diameter of this nut is 30 mm, the distance between the center of the 2 holes seems to be 23.5 mm or 24 mm .
They were used in the QU-BD One Up.

Tray 30cm stretch in the Z axis?

Has anyone configured theirs for dual extrusion? I'm printing a holder right now, but..

Apr 1, 2017 - Modified Apr 1, 2017

@Tech2C, I had minor z-artifects and i wanted all perfect. In the time that i am designing a new z-carriage with 12mm rods (coming soon) i changed my extruder (the one u use and well calibrated) to a extruder with a nema gearbox. And the result are amazing. No more z issues now. Testing some extruder might be a good idea for a future video?

thanks for this cool printerdesign

May someone help me with auto bed leveling in 1.1.0 rc8 please. it homes correctly on the first spot than got bananas to the max. I think its my off set settings but unsure.

Apr 1, 2017 - Modified Apr 1, 2017
Hydrate - in reply to crowsodown

I made a document so I could remember my steps for getting auto leveling to work with Marlin (latest RCBugFix branch)

I've uploaded it on github along with my configuration.h too

https://github.com/pflannery/Hypercube/blob/master/auto-leveling.md

https://github.com/pflannery/Hypercube/blob/master/configuration.h

Thank you,

Heads up: Aliexpress is having a 7th anniversary sale. Its worth checking out if you're still ordering parts or if you're on a budget.

https://goo.gl/photos/b54mfo6VFRVVLubi7

I have my printer doing really well now, except for the above issue and some oval holes......(but my one belt seems to be loose so i should be able to remedy that. I only have retraction speed (150mm/s) and retraction distance ( 7.4mm) set. I hate that bump out where it starts to print. I have calibrated my esteps for x,y & z. Z was perfect, and xy was really close. Extruder is calibrated too. Any ideas on whats happening with this issue in the picture?

Cubes are dead on 20.00x20.00? I wonder why youre getting oval holes. Is your printer printing square? Get a square, and check it against a 40mm cube.

randomise z height change, check to see if you got extra extrusion after retraction, if so tweak that

dont think S3D has that option.

S3D has all those options;
Randomize Z height change - In Layer tab > Start Points (Right hand side)
Extrusion after retraction - In Extruder tab > Ooze control > Extra restart distance ( positive number extrudes extra above retraction distance, negative number extrudes less.

Hope this helps

was fearing that, know nothing of S3D to be of any help.

I'm having an interesting, and confusing issue, Y-Axis moves work fine, but X-Axis moves at 50% of commanded distance. Since both axis have identical settings, I'm not even sure how this is possible. With a standard gantry printer, I'd assume the micro-stepping was set differently on one motor, but that can't be the case here since moving either axis requires both motors and the Y-Axis is moving fine.

Assuming both have same drivers, same estep and can move on print just with x-axis moving at 50%, check physical jumper on driver microstep setting (under driver board) if you're using ramps. May be some issue on connectivity there.

Apr 1, 2017 - Modified Apr 1, 2017
Nocturnal - in reply to w4rr3n

I resolved this by switching to the RCBugFix branch.

Thanks for the suggested solution, but this is a CoreXY printer, it mixes two motors to move the X/Y axis. To achieve a movement in just the X or Y axis, both motors have to be rotating at the same rate. If one of them is rotating at a different rate (due to a micro stepping/steps per mm mismatch) you get a mixed axis move rather than a pure X/Y.

Ah snap, i forgot to take that into account. Good to hear its solved. Cheers!

I decided to re-watch the videos from the build logs and took screenshots of some of the parts, how they go together, etc. Couple of things to note is that in the beginning of the build logs tech2c had parts fitted a certain way and decided to change them and explains those changes in later build logs. I strongly recommend first watching the entire build log series, and then referring back to the screenshots should you need them. Also, some of these photos may be blurry and not so high resolution because again, they're screenshots. If anybody else would like to tag along and post high res pictures of their build, it would be very welcomed and appreciated. Here's the link http://xomf.com/g/yxdff

Thanks for the pics

Don't know what's wrong with the printer. Any ideas? Steps set to 80,80,400,139.5. Running .15 millimeters a second with stock settings otherwise.

https://plus.google.com/photos/photo/102676021478854155621/6403145053267401698?icm=false

looks like over extrusion.
calibrate your extruder, it is super simple.

Ok, I don't have a good pair of digital calipers. Should I get some to do this?

see AnukWolfs reply below....i happen to have some digital calipers so Thats what I used.

I just cut off the PTFE tube flush with filament in it, then let it extrude 100mm and measure it with a ruler.
E.g. I got something like 78mm, then I'd go multiply the old steps per mm variable by (100/78).
In your case, you'd get some length over 100mm, so its something like (100/120), just multiply it the same way.

ok, I set my stock to 100. measured and it was perfect! So i"m crossing my fingers for test 2!

ok, test 2 seems a lot better so far. One last question, I built my hypercube to have a 14"x 8"x 6.5" Bed. In cura I can't find anything that would make a print bed a ceratain size. Any ides?

You usually should have set the bed size when choosing your printer in Cura. You can still change it in Preferences -> Printers -> Machine Settings. There's your bed width, depth and height.

In cura I am trying to print a pretty large part. But my hypercub only prints half of it? It shows whole in cura but no luck. Any ideas?

I'm not sure, but I'd say that your bed limits in the configuration are not adjusted yet?
Look into the configuration.h file and search for "Travel limits after homing", that should be the relevant thing.

thanks

Hi all, finished my 320x350 hypercube. Looks great but won't auto level correctly, it homes the first time then over shoots the second probe. Any ideas?

post some pics

Solved: Forgot I inverted the axis.

how is your extra large hypercube? can you post a make. I am trying to make one your size

It's okay, working out the kints. I used a cobblebot frame and cut it so I have 500x490x576 extrusion and used 500mm rods. Than follow this build

I have a 12.6x8.6" bed right now, working pretty well. Where did you get your bed?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BwsekiOP7rA he is using the same setup i am, although it seems like he has extra steps(not needed in my opinion) we will see.

Got an old oleo divider from DMV. works well pretty flat.

Can everything but the hot end brackets be printed in PLA?

I print only in PLA, the cooling fins on the hot end never get about 80F, you can touch them and not get burned. You need a cooling fan always running, but the hot end holder, Fan Shroud and all parts can be PLA and never suffer any temp damage

everything can be pla, I use a 30% infill all is fine.

Thanks! I thought the hot end mount needed to be in something that could withstand a higher temp.

Nah, it won't get hot at all as long as the hotend fan is on (and it should be on at all time during printing and heating etc..)
You can even have the print fan duct printed in PLA.

I PRINTED MY HOT END MOUNT IN PLA 100% INFILL. BEEN PRINTING FOR A COUPLE WEEKS NOW AND STILL PRINTS AMZING. THE TOP OF THE HOT END DOESNT GET VERY HOT AS LONG AS THE H.E. FAN IS ALWAYS ON

Trying to build a 400x400x400mm hypercube. Should I do anything different? I have a working hypercube and it works great! Where could I get a 400x400 bed?

400mm is a massive heatbed. Unless you have a dire need for that size I would caution against it. To achieve that size you'll probably need to change a lot of things to achieve the necessary rigidity and overcome the engineering issues. You'll need a custom cut aluminium bed and probably want to use mains voltage for the bed. For the heat pad I have nothing but praise for keenovo.com. I bought a custom silicone heat pad off them on aliexpress and it was perfect.

Wasn't actually planning on using a heated bed. Is there other structural issues I should look into?

If you're going for a big bed like 400mm, you definitely need a heat bed, even for PLA!

A cold bed will solve a some of the issues (thermal expansion of a big hot bed!). But you'll still need to ensure that the motion system is rigid enough and that the bed doesn't bounce or deflect too much. You might also need to swap to a ball screw or use two acme screws, and maybe upsize the rods. Might take a bit of experimentation to get it right but I'm sure it's doable.

what abouut 300x350

If anyone in Melbourne is looking for Anodised Aluminium - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/322466516084

Mar 28, 2017 - Modified Mar 28, 2017

Hey I was following your youtube channel and really like the prints your hypercube is doing vs what I see in smartcore machines (most likely because you use smaller/lighter bearings and lighter x-carriage with carbon rods in your latest version). Now I also want to build a corexy gantry machine but was wondering if you could make an alternative version for a regular mdf frame like the smartcore? http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:651117. The smartcore seems to be easier to spread as a reprap as it needs less vitamens (anyone can buy mdf plates everywhere, also it seems cheaper and with the right paint looks just as nice + you already have an enclosed case which is good for abs printing).

As I see it the alteration you only need to alter the 2 motormounts and the 2 idler parts on back to fit inside a box instead of around an aluminium extrusion. Anyways keep up the great work and also the youtube channel ;)

SmartrapCore

I converted my smartrapcore to Hypercube. I didn't like the smartrapcore at all, not only because it has many design flaws and doesn't implement corexy correctly, but also because since the frame it's made of wood, it amplifies the sound of printer a lot! It got really annoying.

Apr 3, 2017 - Modified Apr 3, 2017
wALLe - in reply to WhiteRenard

Was that the latest 1.2 version of smartrapcore (https://www.youmagine.com/designs/smartcore)? What is wrong with it's corexy looks about the same as this one. You either cross belts in the back (like this one, but this actually looks wrong because the crossing is not right http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:730199, this looks right but not printable http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:22005 or have 2 levels like is done in hypercube and smartcore 1.2). I really like the openjscad with customizeable sizes and the fact it's gpl3 that allows commercial use. Regarding sound not sure I've built repraps both with m8's and wood, both are equally loud..., for abs printing you want a closed build volume anyway so adding a door and a top will reduce the sound I think. Also with hypercube it would be nice to add extra panels to print abs properly.

X3D XS COREXY Printer
by Unix
CoreXY
by frankie

Oh and btw, if you're gonna use Youmagine's version, double check all the parts you modify. It's not perfect. I changed the wood thickness and it screwed up the motor's mounting holes.

The youmagine is actually the old version. The latest version is on OnShape. You can find the links for it in the comment section of Smartrapcore's page.
I read a lot about smartrapcore, unfortunately after I built it, on reprap forums and reddit. tbh I don't remember what exactly is wrong with the way they implemented corexy. But what I do remember was something about belts having different angles which results in different steps per mm in different points on Y axis. I'm not sure if that made any sense... :D If you look at the image on smartrapcore's page, you see the belts going around the pulley do not go straight into the bearings at the end.
It's all on reprap forums, just the matter of finding it.
Yeah, adding panels in the front and top should reduced the noise. I plan on adding acrylic panels for Hypercube.

Hmm hard to decide now, either go with smartrapcore and modify parts should they have issues or modify the hypercube parts to work with a wooden frame... (indeed the moving pulleys from x-carriage and L+R engine pulleys and back idlers need to be exactly in 1 line or you'll have tension issues, at first glance the 1.2 version looks ok on youmagine, the side that does not go straight is ok because that one is fixed length it's the moving one on the side of the carriage that has to be straight all the way). For now I'll go with smartcore because if I can make that work properly I can sell kits without worrying about licensing ;) Ofcourse it's gpl so any improvements I'll post also ... And thanks for the tip about OnShape, didn't even know that existed yet ;). Also the leadscrew on z ax is better. Using belts for z has the issue if power goes down your plate will drop and also should the plate become heavy the z engine is constantly working just to keep it in place...

No problem. Good luck on your journey! :P

So what's the popular opinion voltage divider or reverse diode for those with the 12v sensor?

Reverse diode. It tolerates different voltages on either side of the diode so you don't have to fuss with the correct resistor divide ratio.
I posted a circuit in my Thing http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1258415

HicTop Prusa i3 Auto Bed Leveling Sensor Mount

Can this modify for dual head?

yes it can

HyperCube 3D Printer
by pivan

If you've seen the new video Tech2C made where he uses Carbon Fiber rods, he also uses IGUS bushings.
So what's the alternative to those Igus bushings?
Igus doesn't ship to were I am. And I couldn't find any distributers that did.

You could try a set of printed PLA or PETG bearings. I have a feeling it's either going to work great or the carbon fiber will wear them out very fast.

Thanks man, but Ebay won't ship here either. No US based company can unfortunately.

is there anyone in the netherlands willing to sell me the plastic parts??

Ik heb je een bericht gestuurd :)

I would be willing to, but just look at 3dhubs for a nearby hub that can help you out.

Is there a reason why the x/y-motors are in the front and not in the back?

I don't suppose there's anything to stop you putting the motors at the back,but it may get a bit crowded.The idler pulleys would need to go to the front then.Don't know if that would affect the belt directions.

Mar 27, 2017 - Modified Mar 27, 2017
cyberdyne - in reply to clogs

With the the motor and the rods for the buildplatform there is already unused space in the back so why not put the motors for the x/y movement back there as well. This way there should not be a problem with fans or level-sensors or other stuff near the extruder hitting the motors. Yes the idler pulleys need to be in the front but they are much smaller then the motors. For the new configuration you just have to switch x and y motor from left to right (or Switch the connections on the controller). I just wanted to ask if there is an obvious reason (that I just can't see) not to build it like this.

( Now I have one more question! What is the reason to use 2 belts instead of one in H-shape configuration. With both motors in the same hight and only one idler pully in the corners the configuration is much simpler and tentioning is so much easier. Which problem am I missing here? There must be a good reason to use the more compicated Setup, right? Is this setup better in keeping the right angle between x and y rods (if the tention of the two belts is the same). That would be a good reason! )

EDIT: Ahhh! It is called H-Bot! With this name it was quit easy to find more information. Now I know about the problems with the H-Bot design!

Mar 30, 2017 - Modified Mar 30, 2017
Nocturnal - in reply to cyberdyne

The obvious reason is that it reduces the printable area. You lose the width of the steppers from the build area, at the back and you don't get it back at the front because of the print head. Or to put it another way, the steppers at the front take up no print space because the print head already limits the motion in that direction, but if you put them at the back they are taking up usable print area. You could flip the print head, which would give you back some print area, but not all of it (since the print head cannot move past the Z rails).

H-bot configuration has skew/rotate issues (it tries to rotate the x-ax when moving). The whole reason corexy is invented is to mitigate this (it moves this rotate force onto the carriage alone instead of the whole ax). You can also have corexy that crosses belts in the back and then have it all in one plane, its actually what the alu version and the old smartcore and the original corexy that do this http://corexy.com/implementation.html. What you see is that the belts are crossed and thereby at an angle in the back. However the alternate corexy is using 2 planes like on hypercube and has advantage that all belts run straight + mitigates the h-bot issue http://reprap.org/wiki/CoreXY

Mar 24, 2017 - Modified Mar 24, 2017

I have a few questions. Does this printer support direct drive? If it does, does it have the same mounting as a prusa i3 x carraige? Also, about how much does one of these printers cost? Lastly, what is the maximum print size? Thank you

Hi mikelee69

here an X-carriage with redesigned mounting holes so it can mount any i3 rework extruder (and a custom direct that I did, but it is far from being perfect)

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2157979

Hypercube X carriage with i3 rework compatible mount
by pivan
Apr 2, 2017 - Modified Apr 2, 2017
mikelee69 - in reply to pivan

Thanks! Just curious, how do I attach parts to the tslot without drilling? or is drilling required? Also, is this good place to buy tslot from? https://8020.net/shop/20-2020-black-fb.html#product_tabs_cad Also, does the extruder motor benefit from having a 400 steps per revolution motor in comparison to the 200 steps per revolution motor? Do you guys have end stops/ bed leveling sensors you would reccomend? there are alot to decide from. Finally, if I have a 300mmx200mm heated bed, is it better if I have motor on both side? as far as the bed goes, is it okay if i just have pei on this heated bed http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Heated-Bed-MK2A-Larger-Print-Size-300x200-mm-for-3D-Printer-Prusa-i3-/112096941232?hash=item1a197f94b0:g:A6IAAOSwgZ1XsitJ or this bed http://www.ebay.com/itm/MK2A-300x200-mm-PCB-Heated-Hot-Bed-for-RepRap-3D-Printer-Prusa-i3-Upgrade-/111715464601?hash=item1a02c2b599:g:ZowAAOSw~bFWGL2G ? btw, which bed is better if i just put pei on top. It is the ultem pei with adhesive.

I suggest that you don't buy your 2020 extrusions from the company 8020. Their 2020 has slots that are 5.26 mm wide and will not work with widely available T-Nuts. You will regret having bought this material. Look for 2020 with 6 mm slots which work with all the T-Nuts available on Amazon, EBay, and Bangood.

I am new to corexyz 3d printers, where do I find the right 2020 extrusion?

Apr 2, 2017 - Modified Apr 2, 2017
henryarnold - in reply to mikelee69

Here's where I bought mine:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/182165100387?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
You can also get them from Misumi. (I just checked and I don't see that Misumi carries Series 6 which is 6 mm slot)
Recently someone posted a link to a company that will provide a kit although the lengths may not be what you want.

Yes someone did a direct drive implementation. check the remixes. I don't know if it uses the same mount as a Prusa i3 X carriage. Check the remix. Some people claim to build this printer for $280. I think $450 is a more realistic budget if you use quality parts. It will cost somewhere between those two numbers. The stock maximum print size is 200 x 200 x 155. Many people slightly enlarge the frame to print around 250 x 220 x 200. Mine is 250 x 200 x 180 and I used all stock parts except I used a solid 8 mm X bearing rod and 10 mm Z bearing rods.

Mar 24, 2017 - Modified Mar 24, 2017
henryarnold - in reply to henryarnold

Here are two direct drive HyperCube examples. There may be others.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1842815

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2045673

HyperCube E3D Titan Mount with BLTouch and Radial Fan
Hypercube E3D Titan carriage

https://goo.gl/photos/QQ9UVBnVDVsUxVxJ9

this is the issue I am having now. Any ideas? I'm going to change one Ooze Control setting, run a test print, and so on and so on.

wow. can you tell me about your settings? If you posted them somewhere else I didn't see it.

https://goo.gl/photos/XgGhXZqNuAHjC1D57

my current settings in screenshots

couple things for you to try....
retract distance 3.50
retract speed 100mm/s
coast distance 1.00
and you are printing way to fast. I set my hypercube around 40mm/s
you have 100 and that's just too fast.
40 will give you much better prints...

running a test print right now with your suggested settings

Completed my build yesterday and after a few hiccups here and there it works pretty darn well! Still have some Z axis play on one side but aside from that the prints look awesome! Thanks for this design Tech2C, it's such a great base to work with and expand :)

How much did the whole project cost you? Thinking of building one myself ! :)

Well-done!

Mar 24, 2017 - Modified Mar 24, 2017

Love the design, excellent and fairly cheap upgrade path from prusa i3. Well constructed and charming video tutorial. Getting quality prints from the hypercube. TIP THIS DESIGNER so we can see more great things! thank you Tech2c!

Wow, thank you for your generous tip! Totally not required but thank you anyways :)

Tech2C, any chance to upload pictures from the final build from different angles. Would be beneficial to see how things come together.

kind regards
Gerhard

I went back and took screenshots from various build angles however, due to the nature of the build log series and the improvements he has since made from the initial videos, its recommended to re-watch the videos one more time to be caught up to speed and then refer back to said screenshots. Also, some of the images may be blurry due to the fact that I had to pause the videos in certain key points in order to get an actual useable photo, so bear with them as they are not perfect but should help clear some things up. http://xomf.com/g/yxdff

oh common guys... you call yourself makers... this is a rough outline on how to build the hypercube. its better then that actually.. you will be forced to figure a few things out on your own.. that's the reason we all do this.. we love the problem solving.. tech2c could have just posted pictures and said what do you think guys. he has gone above and beyond. better then most Instructables if you ask me...
well done Tech2c. keep up the magnificent work. most of us appreciate your hard work

Did you build one? Why this offence? The point is there where several changes during the built and it would be more clear if there were pictures from the latest built stage. As with so many things the devil is in the detail and pictures could help avoid disappointments and false assembling.
Anyhow Tech2c did a good job with this construction and as I believe inspired many people to build their own 3D printer. But there are people out there who are not so technically skilled why shouldn't they have a chance to build one as well?

Mar 22, 2017 - Modified Mar 22, 2017
AnukWolf - in reply to Golkun

Agreed, I'm almost done building mine and I stumbled upon various little problems and things I didn't originally notice in the build log.
Tech2c also seems to have missed to mention some things he changed, for example, that he swapped out the 4 screws for the heat bed. I tried using the 4 screws that originally came with the springs but my hotend almost crashed into the front left one because the screw head is too large. Now I'm using no springs and 20mm M3 screws, as the 40mm ones he uses aren't mentioned anywhere.

So long story short, I love the concept but there's still some missing info and small adjustments to be made to make this truly "user-friendly" and easy to build.

Mar 30, 2017 - Modified Mar 30, 2017
Hydrate - in reply to AnukWolf

The spring kit from banggood mentioned in the BOM comes with the 40mm screws.

In the set I brought the springs were very hard to compress and the screws they included were cap screws that stick quite far out of the bed. The knobs they sent were good though

So I ended up replacing the screws and springs with

Mar 30, 2017 - Modified Mar 30, 2017
AnukWolf - in reply to Hydrate

Yeah, that's what I meant. I'll go get some new screws as well soon,
for now though I just moved the Y-Endstop a bit forward with some zipties, it works great :D

While I can't make use of UK links (German here), they'll definitely help me to find the right stuff,
so thank you!

@Tech2C that would be great!

I second this. Getting all the angles from the build log videos are pretty tricky.

It has been a pleasure to build the Hypercube. Made some final adjustments. I only have a noisy Y-axis and was wondering if anyone else has tried the Drylin bushings (Tech2C did it). Switching from "brass" to plastic has been a great improvement in both noise and smoothness.

Overall I am very happy with the printer. Some comments:

  • There is some play in the Z-carriage due to the nuts. I can tighten it, but not completely.
  • I am thinking of switching the carriage to the version made by Artur. Changing things is very labour intensive.

The print quality is impressive!

I'm using Drylin bushings and 10mm carbon fibre tubes. I also switched from LMUU8 bearings to Drylin in the 8mm rods. Silence really is golden.

If anyone, like me, had a lot of trouble finding the T-slot extruded aluminium in Europe (Denmark), I can really recommend www.motedis.com.
German company with all you will ever need regarding aluminium profiles and accessories.
I ordered a complete frame from the BOM with 1M extra for future upgrades for 23 Euro. Everything cut to length and perfect finish.

I can confirm, ordered mine also at Motedis. All cut in length, fits perfect.

Mar 22, 2017 - Modified Mar 22, 2017
EDH01 - in reply to LaDK

Everything cut to length? I see a minimum length of 50cm. How did you manage cut to <50?? Very nice site by the way, thanks.

You select your preferred slot (in my case 20x20 B-Type Slot 6). On the product page you can type your own custom length, from 50mm to 1980mm.

Anyone know if esteps can be changed DURING a print through gcode? I want to increase my extruder esteps a bit.

M221 S100 ; Set extrude factor override percentage

I belive that 10pcs F608ZZ Flange Bearing will not going to use in this build. I just realize that i have purchased a week ago and from the videos will not going to use them. Tech2c please remove the 10pcs F608ZZ Flange Bearing from the BOM.

Ok I've removed them from the BOM. There's been quite a few queries regarding those bearings, so they've been chopped...!
As others and myself have mentioned they can be used for spool holders, and also the Z_Leadscrew_Support (although not mandatory).

Mar 21, 2017 - Modified Mar 21, 2017
Nelujones - in reply to Tech2C

Yes I understand that perfectly and you all have right but you have mencioned like the spool holder an optional accesories. Mine I will use them in another projects. I belive that the best will be to point that like ( use for spool holder ). By the way Tech2c I am designer like you and many others and there are a lot of variation of core/xy printer but this is the only printer that have a real community and a good video build guide. SO... FROM A DESIGNER TO ANOTHER I REALY COULD NOT MODIFIE ANYTHING BEACOUSE ITS THE BEST AND SIMPLE DESIGND THAT COULD SEE ON THE RED. GREATINGS FOR THAT.

Thank you for your kind words, I'm just glad to share and help everyone with projects like this ;)

You could use them on my Spool Holder, like I did ^^
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2070272

Universal Filament Spool Holder
by butchja

if anyone needs to make longer ribbon cables for the RepRapSmart Controller LCD display I have the parts to make them any length you need. I ordered 300 feet of the cable and 50 or so of the connectors. If yo need them let me know.

What will it cost and where do you live (for the shipping)? I might be interested

shipping out of Towson, MD 21286. $10 plus shipping

Hi, This is nice project. I have one printer a prusa version, but i want to build one but i want to encloser it, i saw this one and it seems to be easy to enclosure but how it is possible to cover the upper side. Any ideias ? Anyone did that ? Thanks

Tunnelplan 3D printer

Where do you actually want to add the nyloc nuts? I assembled most things with the usual nuts by now, so I'd like to change it on the necessary things before doing assembling any further.

You don't even need them, honestly. They're more trouble than they're worth. Normal ones work fine.

i used them everywhere except for the captured nuts

Put them on every place where something could get loose because of movemen e.g. screws for XY idler and xy joiner pulleys.

30x20 or 30x30 print area Hello friends, I think. the original piece, according to how many measurements are supposed to be.

4 x 340mm (X)
4 x 303mm (Y)
4 x 350mm (Z)
2 x 285mm (Bed)
1 x 135mm (Bed)

How do you connect the inductive sensor to the extruder mount

There's a small bracket you'll need to print and attach.

Would it be ok to print all the parts out of PLA just to get me up and running and then reprint them with the Hypercube out of PETG? I can get the parts printed locally out of PLA a lot cheaper then I can out of PETG.

Mine is made of PLA, its working 100% well. PLA is a lot stronger than you think

Ya that would be fine PLA isn't as weak and people say so I wouldn't even rush out reprint the parts until you have the machine really well dialed in.

How many microns would you have them printed in? 200 or 300?

I print most stuff at 250. 300 the layers are to visible and 200 just takes to long. The infill is more important.

Mar 17, 2017 - Modified Mar 17, 2017
EDH01 - in reply to 556duckvader

That's no problem. My hypercube also consists only of PLA. I think PET-G is actually a bit too soft and eventually go for LW-ABS.

I am in the process of building one. The problem I am running into now is with the bed. I have 2 smooth rods and the single z t8 lead screw. If I push on either side up or down, the bed tilts, about 2mm. This seems to be due to the slop in the T8 and the nut. How have others dealt with this issue?

Thanks

You can try making a brace to hold the bed up. Or you can modify it and put a third rod on one of the sides, although I dont think bed sag is that big of a deal.

how much would everything cost in the us?

About $300-$350 for me.

Approximately $250-$300, depending on if you order from USA or import from china.

search price in these comments, I have a comment where I expand on the total cost by including tools and additional items that help or are required.

Where do I attach the fans for the extruded?

Mar 17, 2017 - Modified Mar 17, 2017
webguy024 - in reply to xd00z1

D9 http://i.imgur.com/KOjq6ri.jpg

you don't have to solder headers where it says for the extruder fan. I just put it directly into the 12v input on the ramps. Only because I forgot before I connected it to the arduino.

Which fan is which?

the cooling fan is the radial fan that sits on top of the e3d mount, the extruder fan is the other one, the one blowing over the heatsink on the e3d.

Sorry to bother you again, but how do you attach the proximity sensor to the e3d mount?

the cooling fan goes in the e3d mount at the top. https://i.ytimg.com/vi/BtmDortWBnY/maxresdefault.jpg

Where on the ramps board

I have printed all the parts for the X Carriage, and I am having a problem with my bearings binding when they approach the XY Joiner. Has anyone else experienced this problem? I am wondering if the parts I am printing are too far out of spec.

Do you mean bushings? Or are you using linear bearings?

If linear bearings and you are getting binding - somethings has to be really wrong. The LM8UU's are pretty tolerant of misalignment, within reason of course.

I'm going to assume bushings.

Do any of the bushings bind by themselves on the aluminum?

Have you measured the diameter of your rod? And the internal diameter of the bushing? My first aluminum rod was squished so it wasn't circle it was oval. Make sure you check multiple dimensions and places in your linear rails. The second one I got was bent and would bind at the joiners - i really couldn't tell by rolling it though. I'm assuming that is what it was, because I got my third and it came in a sturdy box. Measured well, and are on the printer, which is currently printing.

Measure between the center of your bushings in the xy carriage and then the center points for the rails in the xy joiner. you might not be able to see a small difference, but something larger might be apparent.

Have you tightened down your the rods in your joiners?

How far from the joiner is it binding? Try spinning the rails, one at a time, 90 degrees and see if that changes anything. A change here would signal a bent linear rod, I would think.

I realized I was having a two-fold problem. First, my supports had minor warping that was causing the rods to not be straight. Second, I realized I bought the wrong bearings and they weren't self lubricating.

Rails are smooth as butter now!

Mar 15, 2017 - Modified Mar 15, 2017

Hello All,

Thank you Tech2C for sharing your design and thank you all for your contributions!

I am going to start building my printer and after I did cut the TSlot 2020 with the dimensions listed in the BOM I was watching the log videos noticing that the dimensions are different as mentioned in early videos. Are the dimensions listed in the BOM the right ones?

Thank you in advance for your reply.

The Dimensions in the BOM are right

Hello,

where are F608ZZ bearings installed?

You need one for the lead screw support (which in turn you only need when using a spring coupler for the lead screw) and the others are for the optional spool holder.

Mar 15, 2017 - Modified Mar 15, 2017
godz320 - in reply to AnukWolf

thank you!

then why did I buy more than one ?!:) ok I'll use them in other places or projects :)

Can anyone send me the files for this? I know Tech2C doesnt release them, but I know a few people out there have to have modeled everything up on onshape or something and I can't get the openscad to work.

Thanks!

Also looking for the Cad files (preferably Solidworks). I'd like to modify the hypercube frame for a pick and place setup. Figured I would ask before remodeling everything.

I have everything in cad (solidworks) but I have redesigned a lot of parts and it isn't completely tested at this point. Also mine is made for a 300X300X500 build volume.

Are you open to sharing your solidworks files?

Once they are tested and approved ;) you can find my make already, just didn't add any files yet :)

I have my 500mm cubed frame already to go but trying to buy a straight 5mm smooth rod met in complete failure so I want to go to this but using V-Slot wheels. Any solidworks files would be fine if 2014, or before when solidworks was really good, or in a solid format that 2014 can work with *I despised 2015 and 2016/17 was just junky imo so I went back to 2014".

I would advise against 5mm rods for a printer that size. Mine already uses 8mm - 10mm for that axis and that's a 300 X 300 X 500 build volume, files will be up later today if I don't forget it :P

This was just to get the right side to move the left side (motor was on the right side) so was fine for that but no rod can I get straight. 8mm rod I probably could have (600mm long) from Mitsumi but at 22+shipping and there are no 16t 8mm gt2 gears I can't get the design to work. I can't simply use a motor on one side because the wheels deflect and one side will always lag. Think of the 5mm as that which is used in a Flashforge for Y so each side of Y is driven by a single motor.

what problem are you having with the openscad version? I have it and it works just fine for me. I may fail is you select draw total assembly and it will take a good amount of time to render the entire printer. Render each part and then export it to an .stl file.

does anyone have a link to the pillowblock holding the bearing for the 8mm leadscrew of z axis please?

Thanks

I am trying to decide whether or not to twist the belts. I have been running an I3 for 3 years and the belts are not twisted and the teeth on the belt look like brand new. My thought is it is not necessary to twist the belts. I am now doing a survey to see what percentage of people have twisted belts. Please answer my 1 question survey, it is anonymous. Thanks

Survey https://www.surveymonkey.com/r/DGRF6BK

Thanks!!!!

Mar 13, 2017 - Modified Mar 13, 2017
henryarnold - in reply to n9jcv

I did not twist my belts and after 3 months I have had no wear or problems .

Today I thought that the fact that not twisting the belt and running the teeth over the 6203 bearings caused the vibrations, I twisted the belts so the back of the belt is going over the bearing ... sadly no change :( :(

i twisted mine. I am not seeing anything wrong with doing it. There is plenty of clearance so I figured I'd try it. I think it works equally well either way for what I personally expect the life of the belt to be.

My belts are not twisted, and i don't see any wear on them after almost 3 months of printing, only wear is on the top edge because my pulleys are too low so it pulls the belt up but that's adjustable im just lazy

how did you do the programing?

what programming?

Tech2C, you may want top put the forum link in the Thing Details so this comment section will not explode :-)

http://www.thingiverse.com/groups/hypercube-3d-printer

Search for hypercube fan duct on thingiverse. There are longer versions available

I dont know who were talking to but I just came here to ask if anyone had made a longer fan duct.. ill check it out, thanks

Hi Everyone
I have started building this fine looking printer and i have purchased a v6 clone extruder but it would appear that the clone extruders are in fact 70mm top to bottom and the genuine e3d is 63 mm this means that the parts cooling fan duct falls short of the hotend and actually blows on the side of the heater block has anyone else had this problem or knows of a solution other than buying a genuine e3d v6

I just remixed the fan duct, I have a clone too, check it out, it's working great for my clone

i also have a clone and don't have a problem. I think there is a long and short version.

I bought a clone from here:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GCZU8OY

I did not have a problem with the height in relation to the fan duct. This clone is a good bargain because it works well and it includes a bunch of spare parts. I know there are cheaper extruders but they could be the ones that people report clogs with.

thank you for your designs. I recently completed a Clone of the FT-5, but I used lead screws and several of your prints. Thank you. If interested https://www.facebook.com/groups/Folgertech3dPrinters/

look for Phatom-5.

how much this build cost?
total? and how many hours of printing the printed parts.. thanks im just curious.. cos i might print this instead of prusa i style..

this has been answered in this comments section.

Hi
i think there's some terminology and language problem before.
i'm using z axis end switch, not using proximity sensor.
when i use the switch, switch placed on z axis shaft and adjustable bolt placed on the bed.
i think bolt place on the z shaft and switch place on the bed would be easier for adjustment for the first layer.
isn't it?

The switch is usually on the axis, to avoid another unnecessary cable routing and movement.
However I agree with you that this way to regulate the screw isn't so comfortable. A prusa-like remix would be better.

An alternative: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1998569

HyperCube Z Axis Limit Switch - 8 & 10 mm Mount

I've seen several people ask about where to buy extrusion so I thought I would post a link to where I got mine. I found extrusions in lengths close to what I needed, and then requested that they cut them to final length. They did the cutting for free, and all of the pieces arrived accurately cut to length. They advertise the slot width at 6.2mm, and that appears to be about right. M5 screws and t-nuts fit with no problem. Just do a search within the store for 2020, and then find the lengths closes to what you need. They also sell corner brackets, t-nuts, linear rod, and bearings so I got almost everything in one place which helped with shipping cost.

http://linkcncchina.aliexpress.com/store/834897

Well, looks like China has jumped on the Hypercube bandwagon! This should make it a bit easier for folks whom can't find the extrusions. The price isn't as cheap as DIY but isn't too bad.

Congratulations to Tech2C for having a supplier voluntarily offer extrusions kits.This is awesome. It means that suppliers are recognizing that the HyperCube is a great design.

There is also Misumi which has offices around the globe. Here are the extrusions that I ordered and they worked great! They cut to order so this was for 2020 that was 600mm in length

https://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110302683830/?HissuCode=HFS5-2020-%5B50-4000%2F0.5%5D&SeriesSpec=D001%3A%3A600&PNSearch=HFS5-2020-600

If I wish to, Can I use 80-20

I believe you can, 80-20 has 20mm extrusions with either a 5mm slot width. They do have 25mm with a 6.5mm slot width

Also, can someone tell me how much the printer costs in total if you make it the standard size? Im having trouble adding all the parts up...
Thanks in advance!!

Go down through the comments, someone published a spreasheet to do the calculation and organize parts.

Hey, are these the right Aluminum Profiles? they are 2020 but they dont say t5 or t6 however one of the pictures shows that the gap is 6.2 would this work? https://www.amazon.com/T-slot-frame-PDTech-aluminum-extrusion/dp/B06VYBQ3F6/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1489084074&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=2020+aluminum+profile+t6

It says:
"Made from 6061-T6 Aluminum and easy to cut"
T6. So yeah, it'll do.

Mar 9, 2017 - Modified Mar 9, 2017

Just what to confirm the sizing. If the current project makes a cube that is X200 x Y200 x Z155 for the bed using: 4 x 340mm (X)
4 x 303mm (Y) 4 x 350mm (Z) and I want the dimensions to be X300 x Y300 X Z300 then all I need to do is get extrusions this size: 4 x 440mm (X) 4 x 403mm (Y) 4 x 495mm (Z) and everything will work, and of course a bigger bed? I believe in the videos the dimensions are actually different but I'll use this for now.

right, in the videos he adjusts the dimensions recommendations as the build continues.

Yes, those numbers seem right to me. Do remember that you need longer steel rods, a longer lead screw, longer aluminum rods.

You will also need to adjust the dimensions of the bed.

You will need a second leadscrew - I built a 200x200x200 and the bed is sagging pretty good. I saw it getting pushed down when doing a test print (before my ramps started smoking). I'm going to experiment with adding some additional z guide rails to deal with the movement while printing. If you are going bigger, you will definitely want additional bed support.

Mar 9, 2017 - Modified Mar 9, 2017
thehands1 - in reply to webguy024

Thanks for the reply. I already have everything to build an outside frame X640 x Y640 x Z560 but have suggestions from folks that I should start a bit smaller thus changing it to just a tidy bit smaller. The heat bed etc. I planned on still being the 300mm square size. What I might do is put a cube in a cube to make the sizes smaller but the actual frame still be the size it is so I only have to cut a few things.

Mar 9, 2017 - Modified Mar 9, 2017

There are almost no supplier that has the extrusions with the 6mm slot on them... can you post the names? or links? thanks
Also the name for the supplier with the anodized Aluminum tubing?

Also for the anodized if you are in the states - good luck. I called everywhere I could, even tried foreign suppliers. They would not ship to the US... something.. something.. thanks Trump.

I ended up going with 3/8" anodized and it is working really well. It is a little smaller than 10mm.

10mm solid bearing steel works just the same, i print at 120mm/s the weight is not a problem

can you tell me what specs you are using? Filament type, nozzle temp, acceleration? I'm printing petg at 235 with 3000 acceleration at 120mm/s the infill is not getting laid enough. i've since tweaked it so the infill is a bit slower and the perimeters print at 150mm/s. I think I've reached the threshold for extruding the filament though.

I think you can get them precut to size here. https://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110302285350/?Inch=0

this is where I ordered from, before i found this link. The black extrusions look nice imho.

Mar 9, 2017 - Modified Mar 9, 2017
henryarnold - in reply to STIG_

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2020-20mm-Aluminum-Framing-Extrusion-400mm-600mm-800mm-1000mm-1200mm-Lengths-/182004100372
I ordered 7 800mm pieces and only had a small amount left over.

I bought these nuts from the same vendor. They are great nuts for the corners but not for adding accessories:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/182103923716?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Corner Braces from the same vendor:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/182316095050?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

And the hammer nuts:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/262535070366?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I didn't use the anodized aluminum tubing.

Would a 0.9 degree nema 17 stepper motor work fine?

Yeah, it'll do fine.

yep. you would just have to tweak the firmware settings i believe

My ramps started smoking during a test print last night. Bed was heated to 55 and it had been printing for about 10 minutes when I noticed the smoke coming from between the ramps and the arduino. I killed the power and saw that the 11A side of the power input was melted. Disassembled, ordered a replacement from amazon - next day air, and 2 more from china.

I have a mosfet module, so I decided to try it. The heat bed pin was toast for high loads, I know because I tried it :D. I tried the normal mosfet route but it just made the bed heat up constantly. moved the pin to an unused aux pin, but the voltage was only 5v and not enough to switch the mosfet. I should have known this but I didn't do my homework. So I almost gave up, then I switched the bed/fan pins. Now the fan was runing on the damaged pin. It actually worked. I don't trust it enough to print when I'm not looking, but it was a nice learning experience.

So in the end, when the new ramps arrives tomorrow, I'll be hooking up the mosfet immediately.

was that a "RED" RAMPS,,,,:P I got a running humour there CURSED just, bloody cursed and and unforgiving if left alone!.

didn't know there was a different ramps than the red one. I did order one of the mks-base controller boards. just to try it out. got my new ramps yesterday, works great with the mosfet module. Printer just needs calibration now. Lines are way underextruded even though I calculated my z-steps. Looks like today is a day of research :|

Hi guys, I've been inspired to build my own hypercube. I do not own a 3d printer so my question is how do I get the parts that were printed buy the builder? Also I've been looking at the 20 20 extrusion rail and I'm not sure what slot sizes I need. I know the nuts are m5 so I'm guessing I may need profile 6 slot? I will be doing a log on my build as it progresses. I'm currently doing a parts list for the frame so hopefully someone can help, thanks guys...

A few followers have bought their printed parts from Tech2C. Try him first. You definitely want the 2020 with 6mm slots. You will be using 5mm screws to assemble the frame and to attach parts to the 2020 extrusion.

Hey, this printer is awesome, i made one (my first) and I'm really happy, however I noticed that the inductive sensor moves like 0.1mm from print to print or maybe because of the printer speed as far as it has only one screw to fix to e3d mount , and mess my zoffset. Is there any remix or something that has at least 2 screws so that the sensor won't move again?

I tighted my sensor down a little tighter and don't have a problem with it moving now.

I noticed something similar, but I think it was my bed that moved. I'm seeing a lot of sagging in the bed, from back to front. I think you could easily drill a hole in the side without the screw and add another screw there. I might do that soon.

What kind of extrusion does this use? 80-20?

20x20

Can I make this without having the Prusa i3?

yes, you can make from scratch only buying the listed itens

Alright the HyperCube Group is gaining traction.

https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/hypercube-3d-printer

Again, if you could, please join the HyperCube group, and add your remixes and things for the HyperCube there. This way we can correctly keep track of this great project!

Cool!
Mine is on its way to be in the first 100.. if motedis is quick enough in shipping the extrusions :-)

Mar 7, 2017 - Modified Mar 7, 2017
henryarnold - in reply to quickbike

We should throw an online party when the 100th "Make" is logged. Tech2C has 76 HyperCubes so far.

Hahahha! That would definitely be a BYOB event!

I'm building mine now, so I'll probably have it finished before the centennial build.

i'm going to hold off reporting mine until I'm #100. lol.

Taking all the glory, I see!

There needs to be a 'HyperCube v100' that incorporates the best of the remixes. Then Tech2C needs to package it up, and sell it as an intermediate DIY Kit. I'll manage the marketing, you guys handle the money and beer.

Mar 7, 2017 - Modified Mar 8, 2017

Hello all, I'm in the building process and it is mostly going well. although the Ramps board I have is defective, (burned diode) I am able to do tests (waiting for replacement). My question is; how much tension do you put on the belts? I am afraid to put too much and wear the bearings/belts too fast. Perhaps some of you have a trick to know if they are good? I have looked a little thought the comments, there are a lots, hehe. Thanks to all who contribute, lots of great ideas and tips in here.

Reg

I put as much tension as I really could without damaging something. I just pull it tight, and screw it down. I don't know if you could make it too tight.

My ramps almost caught on fire last night.

Thanks for the reply, much appreciated. I did just that and we'll see how it goes. :-)

What happened to your ramps?

I think the bed was just drawing to much power. I've read about this issue and people have upgraded their Anet's to protect against it. I had a mosfet module ready, but haven't felt like I needed it. I keep my bed 60 or below. After it started smoking, I switched it to use the mosfet (after ordering a replacement). I'm sticking with the mosfet. Need to design a holder for it.

Just a little update on my HyperCube16.....I changed a few settings (esteps for extruder) that were recommended to me , and BOOM...it started printing really nice. Then I changed the nozzle from 0.4mm to 0.25mm and oh so beautiful prints.....I am one happy camper now !!

that is great. My first test cube was better than any other test cube I have printed with my other printer. Happy with it so far, don't know if it will ever be 'done' though.

Mar 6, 2017 - Modified Mar 6, 2017

Falled in love with this project! here my very small contribution to it, an X carriage with 3x i3-rework compatible holes

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2157979

Hope it helps i3 rework owners to easily migrate all of their extruders and hotend mounts to hypercube :)

Hypercube X carriage with i3 rework compatible mount
by pivan

I tried to move x and y today, but instead of movement I get a slight vibration/beep, the belts are tight enough and the motor is trying but not moving. I have already set corexy. Thanks

Have you placed the jumpers on your ramps board? You need to place these to tell the steppers to turn (simply put).
http://www.reprap.org/mediawiki/images/0/06/RAMPS_dossier.pdf
Page 4

Yes, I put them the way tech2c did

Hi all,

The HyperCube has obviously taken off in popularity, and so has this comments section.

There have been 2 Thingiverse groups started, one currently with four members, the other with one. I suggest we move further comments to the group with 4 members, so we can begin to group topics and what not.

I've linked the group below.

http://www.thingiverse.com/groups/hypercube-3d-printer

Thanks all!

Nice idea!

So after building a way too big frame 600mm x 600mm x 600mm. It looks like I need more support on the Y-Axis. Has anyone may 2 rod Y-axis mod for this with the X-Y joiner to work with it. The other choice would be a bigger Y-Rod and mods for it. Any suggestions?

I have a 500x500x500 and changed to a single 10mm solid steel Y-axis and to solid 10mm aluminium rods for X. I have no problems with Y-axis, as the corexy does not reall put any force on the y-axis I am working on a redesign of the xy-joiners with longer clamps for the X-axis, as the x-axis rods tend to bend in the clamp. But I did not have the time to finish it yet, as I am currently working on a 1450mm Z Axis :-)

Holly cow! 1450mm that is crazy talk...I wish you the best of luck the key will be support and a big motor. I should change the Y-axis to 10 mm solid steel but I don't have the skill to create the necessary mods to the files. I would need a 10mm Y-axis to a 3/8" X-axis Joiner and the endstop for the Y-axis and the XY Clamps for 10mm. The Y Shaft clamp right and the Y Shaft clamp left that is a lot of changes for just the Y rod change.

Mar 7, 2017 - Modified Mar 7, 2017
mbruehl - in reply to thehands1
Xy-joiner for 10mm Y-Axis (19mm bushings) Hypercube 3D Printer
by mbruehl

Class. I want to do. The question arose. And has anyone here tried to install "the diamond extruder"?

Would it be possible to do this build in IDEX (independent dual extruders)?
I'm asking because we have a bcn3d sigma at work and the build looks very similar to this (apart from the cosmetic differences that is) and I like how the bcn3d works with support material etc.

As the Hypercube is a corexy printer, both belts are responsible for the movement of both x and y axis. Because of that, it is not possible to move a second printhead by just adding one stepper/belt to the setup. http://corexy.com/theory.html

Comments deleted.
Mar 4, 2017 - Modified Mar 5, 2017

Has anyone tried building this on stilts? I don't have a table for my printer so I'm planning to use 1m lengths for the z bars to give it 'legs'. Has anyone tried this?

If it isn't stable I'll just cut them off, if it is I might build some storage underneath.

this guy : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rTaajtmhpBQ is planning on building it with 1m z-length but he's building a double hypercube in the same frame with one for printing and the other for laserengraving/cnc with a removable x-carriage.

Not sure if that is what you're looking for, but maybe you can check it out?

Cheers! I also had the idea to build a cnc under it eventually :)

US builder. Ask in the past and got good advise on other parts. I'm looking for closer suppliers of fastener parts for the hypercube build. Nuts bolts etc. The eBay link only had 300 qty for a lot of the sizes in the BOM.

bolt depot isn't that bad, got all my fasteners and some extras (metric for sake of simplicity for the build) for around $44 bucks shipped, arrived in less than a week.

I ordered from https://www.accu.co.uk/en/ . Not in the US, but shipping was pretty good to florida - 1 week. Glad I did though. they are much nicer quality and I got torx heads so they would be less likely to get stripped.

You might want to try McMaster-Carr at https://www.mcmaster.com/ they have most sizes of the necessary hardware, prices are ok. I have been buying from them for many years, service is good and shipping is prompt.

Hello, anybody knows how to get rid of nasty vibrations ?
The carriage has a very nasty vibration at only 30 mm/s, seems to be caused by the left stepper motor, but how to fix it ?
I tightened everything securely, reassembled the carriage but still same vibration .
Did anybody had this kind of vibration and was able to fix it ?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8vuDQUlsD3M

i had that problem just a couple days ago. It was because one of the wires in the dupont connector that actually plugs into the ramps board was not seated in the housing well. I redid all the connections and put on a new connector and fixed the problem. Just a suggestion.

Mar 4, 2017 - Modified Mar 4, 2017
henryarnold - in reply to bbogdanmircea

The vibration you describe is not normal. Try exercising each motor separately. If it is the Y motor. Try using the X driver to run the Y motor to narrow down if it is the driver or the motor. Have you checked your driver currents. Sorry if that was already suggested. The other suggestion about checking jumpers is a good idea. You may just have bad motor or driver.

You can use G codes to move an axis individually.

  1. Make sure the jumpers on your board are connected correctly. Seems like you are not microstepping.
  2. Unplug and plug your motors back in. Might be a bad connection.
  3. Try switching the motor drivers to find out if one is faulty

good luck:)

I have a Printrboard board from my former One Up printer, this one doesn't have jumpers, and I don't know about the microstepping if it can be done in the firmware or it is hardwired to same value . But the One Up was very very quiet with the same board and motors, so this is really strange . All the current pots are as originally and never touched them, steppers are not heating up.
What I can see and sense is that the carriage is vibrating when it is moved by the left motor, the one that is driving the belt on the top and which has the toothed pulley set up further away from the motor . It is like there is some resonance that is transmitter from the belt of the left motor to the carriage which the vibrates and makes this noise . Of course the noise grows as the speed grows ... I am just looking for idea how to diagnose this kind of vibrations, I ran a print with just the right motor connected to the board and of course no vibration . If you have any ideas about finding the cause of the vibration, you are welcome to put them here .

I am coming from a Two-up and my board worked after the build without issues. I am fairly sure the issue doesn't lie in the belt but the board or motor. Try what Webguy said to narrow down where the problem lies. The Printrboard doesn't have drivers though so just switch the x and y motor connectors to see if that changes anything.

based on your description, my guess would be that one of the steppers is not turning with the same ratio as the other. Both turn by themselves without issue, but together they cause a vibration. You could test this by hooking one motor up and sending it +100mm and see if it actually did that distance, then check the other motor moves the same distance. This is just a helpful guess.

Actually it's the other way around, in a corexy when only one stepper is turning, the carriage will move at 45 degree angle on both axis .
I have my infill set up to a 45 degree, and it is alternating after each layer, so each layer one stepper is continuously moving back and forth and the other is just incrementing one step .
When the left one is doing the infill, the vibrations appear .
When the right one is doing the infill, no vibrations just normal running noise .

I will exchange the motors between them to see if the vibration is moving with the motor or with the driver .
My guess it is related more to the carriage, somehow the upper belt is causing some torque effect on the carriage and that vibration, but maybe I am wrong .
I will switch motors between them, I will try with 8 mm bars for the carriage and linear ball bearings . I will exchange the XY parts between them to see if anything changes . Then if nothing works I will rebuild everything .
Also another question, my axes are inverted, if I command Y the carriage is moving on what should be X normally . I cant rotate the connectors for the steppers as they are one way . If I switch X and Y I will get just inverting of movement, but still flipped axis . I suppose I need to do something in firmware, reverse the direction of the motors ?

Mar 6, 2017 - Modified Mar 6, 2017
mbruehl - in reply to bbogdanmircea

Wouldn't it be easier to exchange the stepper drivers? Also if there is any friction in the system, you should be able to feel that when turning the single steppers by hand.

Already done that, replaced left stepper with Z stepper, same problem remains.

Latest update, I have exchange the steppers between them, and now the vibration is caused by the right stepper (before it was caused by the left stepper), so the vibration seems to be connected to the same driver, but the pots for current are same for all the drivers, what can I do ?
I will try to set up the carriage with 8 mm and ball bearings, maybe it will move easier and the load on the drivers will not be so much ?
Is this a good idea or what should I do ?
My board is the black Printrboard from the One Up, so I can't exchange drivers as they are soldered.
Also how easy should the carriage slide on the aluminium rods, my carriage is sliding very difficult with the brass bushings, more easy with IGUS plastic ones, and very very easy with ball bearings . Can this affect vibrations ?

Maybe I'm misunderstanding but if the vibration followed the stepper motor as you moved it from the left to the right mounting locations, wouldn't that indicate a bad stepper not a bad driver? If you had bad driver, the left location would have continued to vibrate as you put a different stepper there.

So I just switched the connectors on the board, I didn't move the steppers on the printer. So before the left stepper was connected to the driver for X axis and was doing the vibrations, not the right stepper is connected to the same driver and is doing the vibrations .

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jl6VUvJ8CtE

In that case, I agree that you have a bad driver or it is setup wrong. You said there are no jumpers so the only thing you can check is the current setting.

Anybody knows what is the right VREF that needs to be set on the Printrboard ? somewhere I found 1.45 V, somewhere I found 0.5 V, my potentiometers were all at 12 o-clock and approximately 1.0 V, the steppers are all running very cold so I thought to up the current maybe I get rid of vibrations ?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vnZDZlAbdlU&t=3s

Ok did a test print with 1.45 V Vref, definitely vibrations are better with this higher current setting, I could go to 175 feed rate at 25 mm/s infill in the video, but the PROBLEM is that the steppers after 15 min were at 30-40 deg C and the drivers were hot to the touch !!!! So I stopped and will turn down the VREF .
I'm guessing I have increased friction on the carriage axis, but why it is sliding so difficult ? I will rebuild the carriage with 8 lm ball bearings to decrease friction maybe I get rid of the vibrations .

Mar 4, 2017 - Modified Mar 4, 2017

Hi there folks,
I have a prusa i3 mk2, prints nicely but I don't like the frame so I want to build this awesome design with the prusa parts.

Now, the heatbed on this baby is roughly 250x220 and it uses a rambo mini, small steppermotors with integrated leadscrews for z-axis and it's own powersupply.

Is it possible to adjust the rambo fw to work with the hypercube and keep the prusa extra's like live z-adjust etc?
Has anyone done this before who maybe wants to share some wisdom with me?

I am willing to sacrifice the electronics if there are better options out there. I kinda like the touchscreen option I've seen around on a few builds, but have no clue what electronics to use there, so if you have an idea as to what would be the best electronics for this printer, I'm all ears :D

Oh, and i'm not going for the cheapest build here, just the best possible build with these components and, if necessary, some extra components.

Thanks in advance (off to print the 42 parts to get going) :D

the touchscreen is usually a smoothie board from what I have seen. I once read someone say that marlin has better thermal protections. I haven't verified that yet, but it is something I care about so I stuck with ramps for the first build. I intend to go with something more sophistacted for my second build, and smoothie is at the top of that list right now.

Smoothie board. Ok thanks, I've added it to my "things to research" list!

arpione, i believe there is a build in the build section that uses a RAMBo, look around there. It should not be a problem, other than having to find mounts that fit the extrusions. Probably remixed on here somewhere.

Thanks, I'll do a search and check it out :)

Hi TECH2C,
I'm interested in getting the latest Hypercube 3d printed parts. Please let me know cost + post to Qld?
Great video series!
Thanks

Is there an estimated final cost for this? I'd like to know a ballpark figure without having to source all the parts so I know what I'm getting myself into before I start.

Mar 4, 2017 - Modified Mar 4, 2017
webguy024 - in reply to lanesmyname

It depends on what you have already. Not just including parts, tools as well. I'd say $500 if you have none of those things. Add $200 if you also need a 3d printer to make the parts. I had a drill, screw drivers, soldering tools and a hacksaw. Here are some of the things I purchased to complete this build. Not all are required, but they improved my experience. I ended up purchasing enough parts for 2 hypercubes, so I'll be making a second one after this.

Anet A6:

to print parts (got the a6 because it was available in the US and arrived fast). It has worked well for me. I made almost no upgrades, printed all my parts in PETG @ 0.1mm - 60mm/s. 55 on the heatbed, 220 on the nozzle with a 8mm brim produced completely flat parts that come off the painters tape super easy. I used all types of other methods and this has been the best by far.

Miter Box:

to cut the extrusions. I actually have a chop saw, bought a metal cutting blade and a face mask. Cut one piece and noped right out of it. Surely it was my cheap saw, but that was extremely dangerous. Cutting them by hand was not that big of a deal. I was worried that my angles were a little off, because of the gap in the miterbox, but it made no difference because it is all squared up by the corner brackets. once everything was tightened down it was all 90 degrees.

Saw blades:

You will need extras if using a hacksaw. I went through 4 blades cutting the extrusions, steel and aluminum rods.

2.54mm Dupont connectors and crimper:

for connections to the ramps board.

Heat shrink tubing:

for covering wire connections

Resistor Pack:

thought I would need it to make a voltage divider for the inductive sensor. Turns out the inductive sensor outputs 4.2v - no divider needed. Still maybe useful in the future for lighting or something.

Kapton Tape:

to hold the wires to the headbed and wrap the wires near the heater block.

More Wire:

I ordered a set of 26awg silicon stranded wire and it is awesome. Super flexible, and the silicon sheathing does not melt when soldering or shrinking the heat tube. It also is grabbed well by the dupont connectors.

9mm Bearings:

for the bowden extruder (included in its build list but basically a requirement for the hypercube)

Hex Screws:

I reordered all the screws to accept a hex screwdriver, because I had two strip out in the frame from repeatedly loosening and tightening them. Removing those stripped screws from the frame in tight spaces was not awesome. I used a backout bit, and then just drilled the head off. I have no issues with hex screws.

In between screw sizes:

Not needed but makes things nicer. some places work with longer screws but look and function better with smaller screws. Having in between sizes like M3x12 and M3x25 and M5x6 help clean things up.

Drill Bits:

you will need to widen some holes, and perhaps make new ones. I lose drill bits often, having extras keeps me from going insane.

File set:

you might forget to turn off supports like I did. if so you will be thankful you have a good file set.

Filament:

One roll is sufficient but if you are like me and have to print other things also, you will need atleast 2. Go straight to PETG, I don't know why people use PLA anymore honestly. Nor I have answered the question of why people print ABS. PETG has been rock solid for me. Also I printed many extra parts so I could experiment with different designs and find what worked best.

Extra Parts:

Hotend parts, thermisters, belts, etc. I knew I might mess up something and I didn't want to be delayed a week because of it. Order multiple parts, split them between different vendors. I purchased one on amazon to get it quick and several on aliexpress to have backups on the way. Everything has arrived now and I've used many of the extra parts to find the right setup. I stopped ordering from banggood, aliexpress shipping was faster on average.

Pipe Cleaners:

they are useful for cleaning long parts that you don't want to scratch. thermal heatbreaks, bushings, etc.

Springs:

I purchased a set of different springs. they are useful for the bed supports and the bowden extruder.

Tweezers:

When dealing with small things it is very, very helpful to have a way to reach in small spaces. I purchased a set with different profiles, so I could grab screws easily. Those sharp tip ones are useless for that. Before those arrived I a pair with flat ends and I bent them to fit the screwhead and that worked so well, that I use that exclusively now.

Calipers:

Because we are working with small differences in sizes. Having these helps diagnose issues.

Socket Set:

The nuts are in tight spaces, you need a socket to reach them. Extensions are probably required as well.

Protractor:

You will want to verify your angles. My eyes play tricks on me. Either it looks correct, but is completely wrong. Or it looks wrong and absolutely correct. The protractor answers that for me.

Tap and Die Set:

Absolutely not necessary, but it helps when you want to make adjustments. You can cut screws to length and repair the threads for a more custom fit.

Mar 4, 2017 - Modified Mar 4, 2017
henryarnold - in reply to lanesmyname

I built a working HyperCube for $450. There are people who have built the HyperCube for $280. Buying the cheapest power supply, the cheapest extruder, and other parts may give you an unreliable printer. As an example there are E3D extruder clones for $14 but they probably don't work very well. I used quality components and hardware and did not use any parts from my Prusa i3 which I used to print the HyperCube parts. Below are most of my costs for building my HyperCube.

http://www.thingiverse.com/make:272257

MeanWell 360W power supply $40
MKS Gen 1.4 controller plus stepper motor drivers $50.
Black aluminum extrusions $70 (save by using silver)
3 stepper motors $40.
Integrated lead screw and stepper $25
E3D clone extruder with spares $35
Heated Bed $25
Display $15
Filament feeder $25 (or print HyperCube design to save)
Lead screws, bearing rods, bearings ~$30
Misc hardware, wire, power cord, brackets, rubber feet, fan, filament, etc.. ~$50

HyperCube 3D Printer

henryarnold for some reason I haven't seen your build before. It is extremely well done, congrats. I also went with the black extrusions, but grey printed parts. I like those corner brackets, the look cleaner than the cast ones. The extruder is the E3D clone, i like it - looks good with the gold on the black. Also that display housing is awesome. I can't mount it low like that though, my kids would mess with it. Oh wow, the last pictures are of the mounting plate at the bottom - I'm sorry but that idea is too awesome. I'm totally using that in my next build :D

Thanks. Although the mounting plate on the bottom has it's advantages, I sometimes think I should have mounted the electronics on the back possibly in a box. I added a Plexiglas shield to keep bits of plastic from falling into the electronics (not shown in photos). The bottom plate has the advantage of compactness and proximity of display, electronics and motors for wiring but the disadvantage of being open to stuff falling into the electronics. Mounting on the rear has the advantage of better protection and possibly a cleaner look but the disadvantage of more wiring up high on the printer. Overall I do like having my printer closed from the bottom by the plate and after adding a plastic cover it looks neat. Either way could be made functional and good looking.

You are correct, I get so much small pieces of plastic on the bottom of my current print surface. I think I am going to make a mounting plate for the back of my current printer to house the electronics. Maybe put a mirror finish on the inside so I can see the back of the print easier.

For those of you, who have 20x20 Extrusions with 5mm Slots: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2150202

nut5 use flat M5 nuts with this in 5mm 20x20 extrusions T-Slots
by mbruehl
Mar 3, 2017 - Modified Mar 3, 2017

Has anyone built one with a 300x300 build platform or bigger? Wondering what length extrusions you used. And did you add a 2nd z motor for the weight of the platform?

I just started mine yes I am planning on two if not three z-axis motors. My cube externally is 600mm x 600mm x 600mm and I am trying to squeeze every mm out of it currently my build plate is only 300mm x 300mm. Might go to multiple smaller build plates not sure. I' knew to this building a 3d printer so do get carried away though :)

i have a 367 x 377 build plate, yes I added a second z axis motor and guide rails. Extrusions are 20" in length each

Mar 19, 2017 - Modified Mar 19, 2017
robb_nl - in reply to mlbuxbaum

Could you be so nice to post details? What did you adjust? Do you use 2 Z stepper motors or use a belt to drive them simultaneously? Any problems with the bed getting some skew?
I am asking since I also want to have a bigger bed than 200x200 (more towards 300x300) And I will add hight so I get a print hight of 500-550mm

I am using dual z axis steppers motors, not belt driven. They seem to stay in sync with each other nicely. I am using a 5mm aluminum build plate. I used that thickness to try and avoid sagging in the center of the build plate, but I still get a slight sag. Just from the sheer size of the plate and the weight of the silicone pad heater attached to the underside of it. I compensated for that little bit of sag by attching a centered cross brace to the build platform frame with a centered machine screw that can be used to slightly push up the center of the build platform. This can be seen here: https://goo.gl/photos/hUWFLAxtRMtutyuRA

My bed is about 280x280. It's a 400mm cube, with 550mm extrusions in height.
And yes, I'm using a 2nd Z motor. However my build isn't finished yet. Doing the wiring and stuff right now and I need to buy an aluminum plate. I measured my bed area by testing how far the hotend nozzle could go in X and Y.

Nice, I'm still trying to decide how big I want to go. Also trying to locate a cheap place to get aluminum extrusions from.

i don't use autoleveling for z axis and it is really hard to control.
if want to change the setting, i need to rotate or move the endstop switch and rotate the bolt with screw driver than put the endstop switch back. while i'm doing that, endstop switch can be movable.

how about place the endstop on the bed frame and place the adjustable bolt on the z axis steel rod?
can anyone make that?

by autoleveling - do you mean "homing"? Because autoleveling is for inductive sensors, and homing is for endstop switches. Autoleveling is where the sensor reads positions on the bed and the software accounts for the bed not being completely perpendicular to the gantry. Homing is when the bed moves itself up to the endstop switch.

I don't use the endstop swtich, but it seems like you are saying that you have to adjust it by moving the swtich to access the screw because the gantry is in the way? Maybe lower the bed first instead?

I don't understand your problem. Are you saying you can't reach the screw with screw driver or something? If so then just adjust it by hand.

Hello everyone, a few people have been asking where to get the anodized aluminium tubing from including myself. So if you live in Australia, the Sydney supplier is Direct Aluminium Pty Ltd. The tubing comes in 3m lengths as shown in Tech2C videos and they will cut to length at $1 per cut or you can save some cash and cut it yourself. My order just arrived and I can vouch that its nice and light, good quality tubing. Hope that helps. >.<

Mar 3, 2017 - Modified Mar 3, 2017
webguy024 - in reply to Sniperdog

Sniperdog, dude! Thanks for this info. [Edit: just called they only ship inside australia]. I have mine working well with 3/8" anodized, but I might order some just to try. I'm using 3/8" anodized and got it to work really well with both bushing and printed bushings. The printed had some play until I printed them oversized. I redesigned the x-carriage so it printed complete with the bushings and it worked really well. Could have shaved some mm's off it too, but that would mean redesigning the xy-joiners as well, and I didn't sign up for that :D

Hello everyone, i need a Quick Tip. My x and y motor makes a loud noise, but dont move in any direction. I have tested the Motors on the Z - Axis Port on the ramps board and it worked. The Current adjustment on the a4988 is Good. I tested with an other Arduino and New a4988 with the Same Results.

Is somthing wrong in the marlin firmware, or is my ramps board demaged?

Sorry for my english...

Thanks for your help.
Best regards

check the jumpers on the ramps under the motor driver.
that was my problem...

Thank you so much. I look on google about jumper setting...1/16 Microstepping== all jumpers must be attached. In my case no jumpers was attached. After attatching the jumpers, the motors does her work.

I had the same problem but for me it was that the voltage was set to 2v

I think its better for you to label the files insted of listing them in the BOM. Im building the d-bot corxy along with this printer. One of my friends says this is a mini dbot. But its easyer when the files have labels

yes, they are labeled. Now I wish he would label his build log videos :D I had to keep jumping around through them to find where he mentioned some obscure thing. But I guess it helps with the ad revenue, hah.

I dont get what you getting at here the files are labelled

I'm confused with the supplied configuration_with_sensor.h - under the auto bed leveling section, all three of the leveling options are commented out like this:
//#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_3POINT
//#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_LINEAR
//#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR
Does Tech2C use auto bed leveling or just use his probe for a z end stop?!

Tech2C doesn't use auto bed levelling as of yet. Take a look at the reprap forums for help with anything non-hypercube specific.

Okay, thanks for the reply. Is there any reason in particular that you don't use it?

I'll have a tinker with it once I've got the probe installed.

The aluminum bed I own is fairly flat. I find once I've levelled the bed using the knobs it stays level. The major benefit of auto leveling would be for non-flat beds that can take advantage of the new mesh bed levelling feature.

Ah right I see. Thanks for your help and your awesome design!

hey. guys!
now i'm using carbon fiber tubing for x axis with igus bushing.
it's now lighter than aluminum tube and looks better for high speed printing.

i want to recommend using carbon fiber tube if you cannot get aluminum tube.
but, don't use copper bushing with carbon fiber tube.

and one more thing about igus bushing...
i tried to buy from ebay and aliexpress, but they were too expensive.
so i ordered from igus website and that costs less than $10 including shipping for 8 igus bushings.

You have any link to suppliers of carbon fiber tubes? (preferably in the Netherlands, Belgium or EU)

I purchased 2 lengths of carbon tubing from ebay last week. When it gets here I'll test it out too.
I went with matte, as I have other tubes of gloss and matte here, which I find the matte to have lower friction when sliding fingers across the surface.

It should be a drop in replacement for me as I'm already using igus bushings :P

Mar 3, 2017 - Modified Mar 3, 2017
fruityoat - in reply to Tech2C

Would love to hear your feedback. I'm tossing up between Al and CF, as I can get them for around the same price. My concern with the matte rods was that they are usually pultruded, meaning all the fibers are longitudinal, making me doubtful of the rigidity.

I might try 2x 3K-8mm-x-10mm-x-500mm-Roll-Wrapped-Carbon-Fiber-Tube-Boom-for-Multicopter from bangood.

there's already one who is using carbon tubing in latest on made section.

one more thing...
if you buy carbon fiber tubing, consistency of out diameter will not guaranteed.
one of mine was little thicker so bushing was not moving freely.
so i filed with sand paper.

did you buy gloss or matte? I like the gloss, but I'm thinking the matte will be more consistent since it's filed down.

i think matte looks better.
i just buy the cheapest one, so i didn't care about that

Mar 2, 2017 - Modified Mar 2, 2017
bakmibaso - in reply to quickbike

i bought gloss but it became matte after i filed it.
so, one tube is gloss and the other tube is matted now.
well, it works anyway.
i think i should see what will happened after long term use.

Thanks, dude, I'm going to go with matte and let you know how it turns out.

Also, which bushings did you purchase? Are you using 10mm carbon tubes?

Thanks, again!

There is an igus test report on carbon fibre tube showing that the J260 has the least wear with 0.53 µm/km.

http://www.igus.dk/wpck/10568/carbonfibertest?C=DK&L=da

igus bushing: jsm-1012-20
carbon tubing: 10mm outer diameter, 8mm inner diameter

you rock dude, thanks

Did you have to modify the bracket to hold the IGUS bushings? If so, do you have a file to share?

Thanks, I was looking into this!

i bought jsm-1012-20 which size is same as copper bushing i used, so i am using same brackets.

Comments deleted.

I am gathering the parts to build one of the Hypercube 3D printers. I'm using a Prusa i3 style printer and PLA for the plastic. I only have a few months experience printing parts. I'm only to the good / consistent stage ... wish the finish looked better.
I'm trying to print the 'XY_Clamp_v1.1.stl' I have tried two orientations but the overhangs look more like bird nests. Should I be using supports?
One direction under the arch flip it over and I have issues at the screw holes.

Mar 1, 2017 - Modified Mar 1, 2017
henryarnold - in reply to alan2smith

Yes, use supports for overhangs and if you print with PLA, you should turn on the filament cooling fan if you have one.

Check your local scrap yards. Got 3 3/8" 3ft linear rods for 5 dollars!!!

My stepper motors cannot plug into the ramps board, the connections are just wires. What should I do

https://goo.gl/photos/ZDHj7brZsDB3rogA6

I am still having issues with this build.1) I cannot get my retraction settings dialed in and thus I get weird prints. 2)The infill doesn't print properly( see photo) and 3) The print quality is just terrible. I need to get this printer dialed in. My boss is getting pissed. I spent quite a bit of money on this build and have only printed a few things that were acceptable. If someone has a firmware configuration that works great, I would greatly appreciate some help. I calibrated my extrusion this morning but it still seems to be under extruding. I'm so frustrated......I can share all my settings with you if need be. I use S3D.

Print a 3DBenchy and share some picture of it.
List up all your stuff/parts/gear and the Marlin settings.

changed my setting to what tomalvarez suggested below and WOW. I am printing a 3DBenchy now at 200% scale with no supports and it is looking great !!! I do have some minor stringing issues and top layer quality is not perfect but I am amazed.

https://goo.gl/photos/hUWFLAxtRMtutyuRA

I struggled for a while with this for the last few days - it's been printing since Saturday. I use Cura, but I had to monkey with retraction and extrusion settings. Here's what I've got:

In Marlin, I changed the Extrusion to 138.

From this:

define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80, 80, 400, 100 }

To

define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80, 80, 400, 138 }

Then, in Cura, my slicer, I changed the retraction distance to 2mm from the default 6.7mm. I also lowered my retraction speed to 25mm. I experienced a lot of skipping with the extruder motor, which was effecting extrusion. I had prints that would start well, then choke hard. I got the extruder steps ballpark number from Tech2c, as in one of the videos he enters 135 for the extruder. I calibrated my extruder, but the under-extrusion remained.

The only thing after getting the extrusion down is the print distance from the bed. I got that mostly dialed in. Start with half-turns working your way down to 1/8 turn or less to get it solid. Once it's tight, you shouldn't have much issue.

I hope this helps!

Mar 1, 2017 - Modified Mar 1, 2017
mlbuxbaum - in reply to AllCity-Maker

i changed the steps and it started printing MUCH better. Was still having some issues with infill and supports on the benchy model. Changed retraction settings lower and wow, much better !! Infill is still spotty or stringy......I'll add the pictures to the shared album listed above (last photo)

Yeah, I printed a lot of test cubes, working my way up in steps: 100, 115, 125, 135, settling at 138. My infill was also terrible, initially. I've discovered some issues with supports, but I'll deal with that later.

Good luck!

i changed that setting and will now print a benchy to see what happens.......fingers and toes crossed

I am also using S3D. I have posted my settings here:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2033892

I am using a E3D V6 Clone. Everything else is stock. Is it possible that your extruder feed is not working smoothly? I've noticed that with my printer running correctly, I can put my fingers on the filament going into the feeder and feel it moving in and out consistently. It moves in as it is feeding filament and the out is the retraction. When my nozzle was clogged, I could feel it failing to feed properly. Also with the feed disengaged you should be able to hand feed the filament and feel and see it smoothly come out of the nozzle.

Simplify 3D Configuration Files for HyperCube/CoreXY

for everyone interested, banggood has the angle corners on sale (last day today).
around 2 $ for 10 !!! http://www.banggood.com/10pcs-20x20mm-Aluminium-Corner-Joint-Right-Angle-Bracket-Furniture-Fittings-p-1056722.html?rmmds=search
i have ordered 4 packs.

Feb 28, 2017 - Modified Feb 28, 2017
WhiteRenard - in reply to brooti1988

They've been on sale for the past 2-3 months. It's a marketing trick. You'll be thinking "Oh it's on sale and only 1 day left, I gotta buy them quickly!".
Then the sale is renewed the next day. lol

Feb 28, 2017 - Modified Feb 28, 2017

Hi,

Has anyone made a part fan that is long enough to work with a volcano hot end?

Thank you

[ERROR] Could not connect to COM4 at baudrate 115200:
Serial error: could not open port COM4: [Error 2] The system cannot find the file specified.
Connecting...
[ERROR] Could not connect to COM4 at baudrate 115200:
Serial error: could not open port COM4: [Error 2] The system cannot find the file specified.
Connecting...
[ERROR] Could not connect to COM4 at baudrate 115200:
Serial error: could not open port COM4: [Error 2] The system cannot find the file specified.

any tips
?

You likely have to set the baudrate to 250000

in marlin the baudrate default #define BAUDRATE 250000 match that

drivers they installed? type of controller you using is it RAMPS? cloned arduino? then look here http://www.microcontrols.org/arduino-uno-clone-ch340-ch341-chipset-usb-drivers/

How do I download pronterface. I have it downloaded but how do I get the actual program

you have to decompress the rar, but I used repetier because it is what I use for my other printer.

I have downloaded all files but after closing it and try to open it it says loadlibrary(pythonIII) failed

How do you add configuration h to Arduino? thanks

that is in one of the build logs. use the arduino software.

Hello is it possible for the Hypercube to be built with 2 z-axis motors. If so what extra parts do I need to print and what extra parts do I need to order. Thanks, I am trying to build by hypercube with 2 extruders (check remixes for the files) and 2 z-axis motors.

There are makes of this printer where people have already done it with 2 z-axis motors. Just look over there

Does anyone know how to reverse X and Y axis from the configuration file ?
When I move the Y axis from repetier, the carriage is moving along the 10 mm rods .
When I move the X axis from repetier, the carriage is moving along the 8 mm (from the back of the printer to the front where the steppers are).
Also can anybody tell, for an 45 deg infill set up, so only 1 stepper is used for infill, when the left stepper is used, the carriage is vibrating, when the right stepper is used, the carriage is not vibrating . The belt on the left seems to be tighter than the one on the right, is this a possible cause ?
Other causes ?

I warn everyone attempting to dismantle its prusa i3 printer to build this one, that the X carriage has mounting holes for the hotend that are not those that can be found on prusa i3 rework. It's not a design issue, just be warned to print every piece