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shawdreamer

e3d v5/v6 printrite extruder assembly (FINAL VERSION)

by shawdreamer Sep 6, 2016
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I am attempting to put a E3D clone on my colido diy and have ran across your designs...if i were to move my extruder and add feed tube as you describe would i need to adjust retract rates? if so am i able to do this on my stock board or am i just wasting my time all together?

retraction is purely controlled via software and can be altered in the slicer options

open Repetier host
click "slicer" tab on right hand of screen
click "configuration" to open slic3r
in slic3r click "settings" tab
click "extruder"
retraction should be at the lower section of the screen

make note that you'll need to set the retraction for each extruder config in the drop down menu.

hope that helps

p.s........

from what I can recall from my printrites settings after I swapped out for e3d.

V5 - 0.4mm tip - 3mm retraction
V5 - 0.3mm tip - 2.5mm retreaction

V6 AllMetal - 0.4 tip - 2.75 retraction
V6 AllMetal - 0.3 tip - 2.25mm retraction

the above however was effective using ABS but the same settings caused a little oozing still with PLA and a little stringing (nothing major but annoying to remove/wipe off post print)

It sure does. I have been impressed by this little machine, kinda thought it was just a toy but with addition of lcd screen and few frame parts it has been printing pretty well...now time to modify. Thanks for the quick response, I will post a pic when project is finished.

I know I'm VERY late to the party on this and I've tried about 4 other mods with this one being the best solution and I really appreciate the work that's gone into this, it certainly beats Printrite's professional attempt at it hands down.
But with the tip cooler, wouldn't it be better to have the ducts at the opposite side so there would be less resistance forcing air through the passages, plus wouldn't it help to have wider ducts ?
Thanks.

much of the design was dictated by available space and my desire not to create too "bulky" a setup in general while maintaining a good standard of flexibility.
obviously there's still room for improvement, much as with any design but during its use I found the design worked better than I had anticipated so it just further cemented my decision to leave it as is rather than mess about any further with it and potentially just losing some of its performance (which tbh is generally what I end up doing much to my own regret).
As it stands my printer was coming to the end of its existence as an actual Printrite machine and would shortly after creating this design It was stripped down and its mechanical parts were re-purposed into the creation of my first Poltur Printer design which is specifically designed to take the Printrite parts and put them into a frame that is vastly superior in terms of reliability, flexibility and durability, hence why I never re-visited the design to attempt further "tweeking"
Do by all means feel free to have a crack at it yourself if you want, its always nice to see my designs evolving even when its not me evolving them lol.

Thanks for your quick reply.
I understand the 'Don't mess with something that already works' concept all too well and loved the way you have evolved the design.
I have a Printrite Makerbot clone (Enclosed into a plywood encasing) it was given to me for free last year because it drove it's previous owner around the bend.
After, I ripped it's internals out and replaced with a more reliable, off the shelf reprap parts, it's evolved. It's been a big part time project transforming the crappy Printrite platform into something that's workable and reliable.
So I really do appreciate your effort and sharing of this wonderful solution to the community.
Any upgrades for your printers planned for this year ?

If I have plans for new upgrades Im keeping quiet about them as Ive only just finished making a whole new version of my PolTur XL design and if I reveal any intention of doing something else as big my Missus will likely leave me.

besides, my current XL v.2 incorporates all the beneficial mods I discovered during the creation of its previous older siblings so is set to be around in its current form for quite some time..... that is unless I have one of my troublesome moments of inspiration/irrational optimism and start "fiddling" with the poor thing.

the evolution...
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1792378
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1962561
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2848831

Like I said Im pretty happy with the current version but knowing me theres no telling how long that'll last.

The ShawDreamer-PolTur Printer
Poltur XL upgrade parts
PolTur XL v.2 (The lack table printer)

I know you're not working on this project anymore, but I am printing one of these out for now, and I seem to be running into a small problem.

On the clip-on piece that holds the extruder assembly (file titled swanky_waasa_4) looks like the collar is 4mm tall. The extruder I bought (all metal, v6) appears to have a 6mm collar instead, making the extruder assembly move quite a bit even when the two sides are bolted down.
The only part I haven't printed yet is the v6 Extruder cooler, but i can't see any points where it will hold on to the carriage, so I am assuming that won't change anything and there needs to be a bit of "fixing" on my part.

Given that, would you recommend I print a couple of pieces that would clamp around the collar as a spacer or just try to modify the original design to accommodate the larger collar space? (by my measurement, combined the collars will be 2mm high, 12mm inner diameter and 16mm outer diameter)

Please keep in mind that I have zero experience with 3d design, but I hope to get into it soon. For now I'd like to get my PR DIY to be a little more stable while I work towards building a PolTur conversion (thank you for both!)

edit: holy crap I put cm. That would have been way bigger! fixed now though.

depending on just how much gap you have a quick simple fix would be electrical insulation tape, just slap of few wraps around the clamp point of the extruder till the original design once again clamps down on the extruder firmly.

sounds a bit slapdash but it'll work fine even as a long term solution, in normal operation the extruder never undergo's any sort of movement stress so it shouldnt have any cause to work loose later, also you should never see any real amount of heat propagate up that high from the hotend so nothing should get soft and saggy as time go's on.

If nothing else it'll save you having to make a "workaround fix" or trying to alter the original design to work and should see it last till you've got round to finishing your upgrades

Thanks for the advice!

I looked at the issue and because it was a vertical clearance problem, not horizontal, I ended up figuring out how to print a tube shape at the right diameter and wall width to create a collar. This had to attach below the clamp due to height of the extruder else it wouldn't clear the tip cooling vent, but it worked out pretty well.

If any of my other clearances end up slightly off, I'll definitely be looking at quick fixes like electrical tape.

as is often the case with 3d printing, the simplest and cleanest solutions often prove to be the best.

Just wanted to thank you in advance for pouring your blood, sweat and presumably tears into this. I've been wanting to give my printrite DIY a new lease on life but was dreading having to design a mount for the E3D myself, you've given me exactly what I need to get my ass in gear and do the upgrades. Thanks!

well I can at the least confirm its reliability and consistency in use as I used it for three-four weeks of heavy printing before converting the entire printer to my PolTur printer design, it gave me good solid quality prints right to the end, I felt a pang of guilt as it went into the bag with the rest of the printrite original frame plastics.

this design is for a "long" range setup.

the best way to explain it is that this designs extruder is fed filament through a tube and the motor that feeds the filament into that tube is situated somewhere other than the carriage.

the standard printrite setup (Im assuming that your using a printrite diy 3d printer) is a "close/short" setup were the filament feed motor is right ontop of the extruder on the carriage.

one of my other previous designs has a "short" version for use with j-head extruders that might better fit you requirements.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1685975

printrite j-head close range feeder version

I see your other design for a bowden feeder. Where do you have it located? Do you like it remote better than the close range setup?

Thanks,
-Andy

there are benefits and disadvantages to each.

close range requires alot less time spent on adjustments to software (retraction speed, extrusion ratios etc) to take into account the flex in the feeder tubing while long range does.

the benefits to long range is you remove a great deal of clutter from the carriage (and weight which help with movement and noise levels) while it also gives you more options for modification space.

the benefits to close range is for want of a better explanation its alot more compact, anything that can go wrong is all in one place so is easier to locate and fix, plus without a feeder pipe to worry about theres alot less to go wrong.

my feeder is located on the top of my printer (bolted to the crossmemeber), Ialso have a couple of printable designs for the feeder, one of which uses the existing printrite parts, which saves cost.

pls see V2
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1685389

printrite bowden feeder

This looks great. I'm going to make one. I see that there is a choice for a long or short option on the ebay hot ends. I have no idea what that refers to. Which do I need?

Thanks.