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Boitier ventilé RAMPS Arduino LCD12864 / LCD12864 Arduino RAMPS case with fan

by CherHubert, published

Boitier ventilé RAMPS Arduino LCD12864 / LCD12864 Arduino RAMPS case with fan by CherHubert Sep 17, 2016

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Summary

--- Videos ---

Impression / Print : https://youtu.be/3JqaZjaI6h4
Assemblage / Assembly : https://youtu.be/cKQOOUaG2FM

--- Français (English below) ---

Voici la version avec ventilateur de mon boitier de commande d'imprimante 3D. A l’intérieur se logent : carte Arduino + RAMPS1.4 + écran LCD 12864 + deux ventilateurs 25x25x10 (max 25x25x15) + un ventilateur 40x40x10.

NB : Les pièces sont conçues pour être imprimées sans support matériel.

L'assemblage compte trois pièces imprimées :

  • le corps principal
  • un panneau latéral
  • un capot pour l'écran LCD

Quincaillerie :

Préparation

  1. Imprimez et nettoyez les trois pièces
  2. Supprimez les supports d'impression du panneau latéral :

    • Passage prise USB + passage carte SD
    • Emplacement connecteur électrique
  3. Supprimez les supports du capot écran :

    • Passage bouton
  4. Vérifiez que tout s’emboîte correctement

Assemblage

(Regardez la vidéo d'assemblage : lien en début d'article)

  1. Fixez les ventilateurs 25x25x10 avec des vis M2,5x16. Une vis par ventilateur suffit.
    Illustration

  2. Branchez les deux câbles de l'écran LCD sur la carte RAMPS uniquement.
    Illustration

  3. Glissez les cartes Arduino et RAMPS préalablement câblées dans le boitier.
    Illustration

  4. Attachez les câbles (et la gaine si vous en mettez une) en utilisant un collier plastique.

  5. Glissez le ventilateur 40x40x10 dans son logement.
    Illustration

  6. Montez le connecteur d'alimentation électrique femelle 2.1 x 5.5 sur le capot latéral
    Illustration

  7. Branchez les câbles du ventilateur et de l'alimentation sur le bornier.
    Illustration

  8. Mettez l'écran LCD en place
    Illustration

  9. Placez son capot dessus et fixez-le avec une vis M3x20 en haut et une vis M3x25 en bas
    Illustration

  10. Mettez le capot latéral en place et fixez-le à l'aide des trois vis M3x20 et la vis M3x25 restante qui se place au bas à gauche du capot d'écran.
    Illustration

Et voilà, c'est fini !

Alors, heureux ? ;)


--- English ---

Here is the version of my 3D printer control case with fan. Inside are housed : arduino card + RAMPS1.4 + LCD 12864 + two fans 25x25x10 (max 25x25x15) + one fan 40x40x10.

NB : Parts are designed to be printed without material support.

The assembly consists of three printed parts :

  • the main body
  • a side panel
  • a LCD frame

Hardware:

Prep

  1. Print and clean the three parts
  2. Remove the printing supprts from the side panel :

    • USB plug and SD card passages
    • Electrical connector location
  3. Remove the printing support from the LCD frame
    • Button passage

4 - Check that everything fits properly

Assembly

(Watch the assembly video : link at the beginning of the article)

  1. Fix fans 25x25x10 with M2,5x16 screws.One screw by fan is enough.
    Illustration

  2. Connect the two cables of the LCD on the RAMPS board only.
    Illustration

  3. Slide the Arduino and RAMPS cards previously wired into the case
    Illustration

  4. Clamp the cables (and sheath) using a plastic tie

  5. Slide the fan 40x40x10 into place.
    Illustration

  6. Mount the female electrical power connector 2.1 x 5.5 on the side panel
    Illustration

  7. Connect the fan and the power connector on the power terminal block
    Illustration

  8. Put the LCD in place
    Illustration

  9. Place the LCD frame and fix it with one M3x20 screws at the top and one M3x25 screw downstairs
    Illustration

  10. Put the side cover and fasten it with three screws M3x20 and one screw M3x25 which is placed at the bottom left of the LCD frame.
    Illustration

and that's it!

So, happy? ;)

Print Settings

Printer:

DIY Delta

Rafts:

No

Supports:

No

Infill:

15%


Notes:

Slicer : Slic3r
Nozzle : 0,5mm
Layer hight : 0,25mm
Perimeters : 2
Top and solid layers : 3
Infill : 15% (3D Honeycomb)

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@ Creator

can you please post links to the fans and female power plug?

Ok, i've set the links in the description

Excellent work!
But need for some expanding for my board, so could you plz share your solidworks file? Thanks

Hi, I only share the STL

Hi

Is there a version that can fit the LCD2004?

Thank you.

Only for the LCD12864 for now, but you can make a remix:)

Bien fait! J'aime ça.... Je vais tout de suit l'imprimer pour ma future HyperCube Evolution.

Merci, n'hésite pas a me faire un retour sur ton expérience et à poster une photo de ton boitier.

Jun 22, 2017 - Modified Jun 22, 2017
FrancescoF - in reply to CherHubert

Bien sur... Je l'ai déja modifié (ça va sans dir...), j'ai ajouté un trou pour le contraste et doublé le grand trou pour les cable au dérrière.
La partie plus terrible sera surement emprimer le boitier, infill à 100% demande 20 heures! (infill 60% seulement 19...8-)) )

I like the design, my only complain is about the reset button, maybe you can add another revision with an added button, the reset button is sometime useful to use without a pin :)

The 25mm fans are needed? I have 30mm but not 25mm, just one 40mm is fine I guess?

The 25mm fans are not needed if you use a 40mm fan. I my case, i drive a delta printer without heated bed, then i don't use any fan.

About the reset button, I'll think about it.

I printed the base and side cover, here some of my suggestion for another version, make bigger holes for wires. its impossible to enter X, Y, X + E in the big holes, I would like to see at least 2 or 3 holes so it's easier to add/remove wires.

Also the 40mm fan, mine is 11mm tickness not 10, so I kinda forced to enter it, now it is stuck impossible to remove lol. So add around 1mm on the fan tickness.

I printed without support, maybe some of the front holes could be changed for an easier print without support.

Anyway nice design.

Hello again. The design is very very beautiful. I am trying to make one, but I would want to know what holes do you use for motors and endstop wires. Thank you.

Thank you :)
All wires pass through the same hole located at the back of the case.
When you look at the rear of the case, from the right to the left, you have the hole for the power connector, then the fan grille, and finally the hole through which the cables come out. You also have on its left two slots to pass a plastic collar to attach the cables inside the case.

Thank you VERY much. I will try one and post it as "made" soon.

Very nice design!
I want to make one for my printer, but I have a different LCD panel. The knob is 5 mm to the left, the SD card is on a different position and the pcb is 1 mm higher. Can you upload the CAD/STEP files, zo I can modify them for my printer?
thank you.

Bonjour, merci de votre réponse rapide je vais étudier la question de mon coté et vous tiendrez informé si je trouve une solution.

Bonjour, y aurait il la possibilite tout en gardant le meme ecran de placer un raspberry pi3 a la place de la carte arduino ?

Bonjour, ça se joue à pas grand chose... La carte du raspberry pi fait 56mm de large, contre 53,3 pour l'arduino. Il manque donc environ 3mm de largeur à la gorge dans laquelle se glisse la carte pour pouvoir y placer le raspberry. Sinon j'ai fait une simulation, il n'y a pas de souci en longueur ou en hauteur. Ceci dit, il reste encore le problème d'accès aux ports du raspberry, mon boitier n'est pas conçu avec des ouvertures adéquates.

Thank you anyway. Maybe I can make a remix and upload it :o)
Best regards

Congratulatios for the design!!
Don't you have any variant for Reprap discount controller LCD (20x4)?

Hi, sorry but i have no variant for a 20x4 screen that is much wider

Excellent french Design!! I love it, but. . . .why all makers always miss to include an on/off switch. . .

Thanks for the compliment :)
I have not set a switch to limit operations during assembly. As it is possible to plug and unplug the power supply, It's about the same thing.

Feb 13, 2017 - Modified Feb 13, 2017

Really like the design. I'm printing two right now for my printers that use a RAMPS.

I also have an Anet A8 that I'll be reframing to a 3030 aluminum frame and I would like this same design for the LCD enclosure.
So the Anet mainboard will not be placed inside this enclosure, just the LCD with the rotary encoder and SD.

Do you think you can modify/remix a version that only has space for the LCD?
Like: http://www.thingiverse.com/make:301230 with a piece of flat mounting surface on the bottom.

That way everyone can design their own brackets to mount that flat surface to their printer.

Boitier ventilé RAMPS Arduino LCD12864 / LCD12864 Arduino RAMPS case with fan
by Merdeka

I have seen your two prints. The colors you have chosen give a very great result !
I'm not sure I have time to customise my case quickly, but I'll think about it

Снимаю шляпу. Это шедевр.
Hats off to you. It's a masterpiece.

thank you very much :)

Superbe boulot ! Bravo ! j'adore

Super design bien réfléchi ! Du très bon travail. Je met en collection pour une réalisation ultérieure.

Oct 4, 2016 - Modified Nov 13, 2016
CherHubert - in reply to xfifi

Merci, n'oublie pas de poster des photos lorsque tu auras réalisé ton boîtier.

Hi

I like your design.. so sleek .. but i have one concern ,, what about heatbed wires, 40 amp psu and stepper wires ?

is there place for a idc connector on the back and a 4 pin psu connector ?

Hi Jason,

In my case, i don't use heatbed at the moment. So I power my case with an external 12v 5A power supply.
In my tutorial, i show how to assembly the case, so i don't have wire the all 3D printer.

For information, I think that the better way to power the heatbed is to use a relay and not power it directly from the RAMPS (like this http://doc.3dmodularsystems.com/tag/heat-bed/).

idc connector : I thought about it, but the biggest ribbon cables (2.54 mm pitch) are only 28AWG when the motors need 22AWG. 22AWG cables can't be used with IDC connector (to big).

Hey. J'adore cette boitier. But i have to control all my printers components... morors, endstops, extruder...
How did you do this?

Hi WinChild, thanks for your encouragements. You have to wire all your components (http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4#Wiring) and pull the cables through the hole at the back of the case. That's what I did.

Note that the 12v power supply is made with an external power supply that plugs into the 2.1 x 5.5 female connector also positioned at the back of the case.

If you print the box, thank's to post a photo of your realization.

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